At a guess, and without bothering to trawl the Internet to confirm, the 3 minute sectors will be something to do with QRF (Quick Reaction Force) for interception or the V bombers.
Ever heard the song Sylvia’s Mother by Dr. Hook? Let me quote a recurring line: “And the operator says, '40 cents more for the next 3 minutes'”. Those three minute hashes have been on countless chronograph’s of the era this is invoking, and it has nothing to do with military or aviation. It’s a phone rate timing guide, showing you how long you have to talk until you need to insert more money into a payphone. If you need to know what a payphone was... well I have a decommissioned one sitting on my dining room sideboard (which is itself a decommissioned stereo cabinet hi-fi, but anyway) As an aside, if Marvin is a designer, why does he miss one of my biggest pet peeves- a minute hand and center seconds that are equal in length? The second hand should be longer.
I've agree about the "payphpone marks," as I've seen them on other chronographs, but it seems odd they would include them on an otherwise military/aviation focused watch. Were pilots making lots of payphone calls, once upon a time?
Do you have any evidence for that? Or that telecom companies in countries around the world charged in three-minute blocks for their payphones? Just because the US did doesn't mean other countries did too.
@@andysmith1996 I am aware that both British Telecom and Deutsch Telekom did. that, at least. I suspect the period was generally standardized to simplify charging for international calls.
Price seems fair to me, way more features than a seagull 1963, adding rotating bezel, heaps of lume, useful water resistance and beautiful leather strap. Still not for me, I only want the watch for the old school antique column wheel movement and beautiful looks through the display case back.
Jody, the 3, 6, and 9 minute markers aren't simply a British quirk... it's an aviation thing for quick groundspeed calculations for a time before modern equipment. Example: I fly 20 nm in 6 min. 6 min is 1/10 of an hour, so multiply by 10 (meaning simply add a zero) and I was flying 200nm/hr. Do it for 3 min... multiply by 20 (or add a zero and double). Quick, easy calculations!
I think it looks fkin awesome. I'm getting dangerously obsessed w pilot/military style numerals and hands (being absolutely in love w the Breguet xxi or Longines big eye) and this Hemel seems totally satisfying. Also,I think Seagull movements have a sort of clumsy steampunk vibe that seems kinda charming :)
Pretty nice. I’d be more interested with a bigger crown and a bi-directional bezel. Unidirectional seems like a cost-cutting measure on a non-dive watch. $500 seems like a lot for cutting that big of a corner.
It's a nice watch. As you say there are watches mostly AE chronometers with these movements for less, though quality might be less too! Lovely lume. Two criticisms. 1. All polished can sometimes look like cheap chrome. But maybe this one isn't like that. 2. Having the sellers logo on the dial is just not right. Why would anyone want that? It's like the fella who leaves the store label on the sleeve of his new suit.
Considring the next decent Chrono mvmnt is the Longines big eye at £15;00, all the tissots etc at less are auto module eta nail ons so the price is right and it looks ace. Already got the '63 thanks to this channel
That lume is something special, and the syringe hands with that swimming pool blue are outstanding. I'm actually a fan of hand winding my watches. They promote a level of bonding that isn't necessary for quartz or autos.
Hi Jodi Great review and lovely looking watch. I am sure they will have all gone by this time. I may look ast Hemel and see if they are in stock. Thanks for taking the time to show us this watch.
Another brilliant review. Your channel is so good. Established your own format and stuck to it, different than the rest and unbothered by what comes and goes on other channels. Thanks for your videos, they really are entertaining while being informative.
There's a town about 30 minutes north of London call Hemel Hempstead. Shortened to "Hemel". I just can't see this watch without thinking of the town and all its roundabouts.
Microbrand Store owner here, who by the way is also British and from London. Strangely I never made that fun connection, but I should have! Marvin, who runs Hemel, has Dutch heritage and Hemel is the Dutch word for "sky", which I think is very appropriate for military aviation inspired timepieces.
@@TheMicrobrandReview hi mate. That's really good to know! I had guessed it was something other than the town but never knew 😂. They do look like very decent watches though.
Bloody hell ! You did it again. Made me order one, ok not the Seagull version but the VK64 mecha-quartz in a black/white panda chrono. My past use of the Seagull Chrono has been mixed to say the least. Both good and not so good so flipped them on the bay. However the Hemel does look great. Been thinking about a Bulova Lunar Pilot put keep reminding my sensible self that it's on the large size. I really must resist, I really must resist, I really must resist, ..............
Damn! Of course the one microbrand watch I want to buy in a while is a limited edition! 😂 Also when I have no money. Ah well, with those dimensions, it's too big for my slim wrist anyway. But what a cool watch 👍
This is a nice looking piece and that lume is crazy. I have a few watches with this movement in too. All considerably cheaper than this one. A couple of Sugess and a Phylida. I've not had any issues with the movements in any of them.
Bought my first seiko yesterday! SKX007! Thing is mint. And I paid a mint for it. $400 USD but hey, they are an investment at this point and what’s not to love! Long time listener, first time caller as they say. Thanks for all your hard work and dedication! Love the channel thanks a ton mate! Cheers from California 🍻
The ST-19 is a phenomenal movement. I bought a 1963 chronograph that was absolutely the most accurate watch I've ever owned; >300 amplitude, 0-1 sec/day across 6 positions, and zero beat error. The watch itself was rubbish and fell apart after a couple of months (the crystal spontaneously broke and popped off while sitting in my watch box) and the strap was crap but I saved the movement, I'm going to use it to build a new chronograph.
Hi there... I believe the seconds in the right dial are in goups of 3 having to do the way phone calls were charged to users eons ago... This is the explanation I got from dad when asked tge question on his Delbana chrono...
Just a thought…most of us pick watches because they look a way or have a movement we have been told is good. You briefly went into a description of this movement. Ever thought of doing a video of just reviewing a Movement and breaking down all the pieces and what they do/why they matter? I’d find that highly informative and with your flare, entertaining as well. Just a thought.
Bought one of these this morning, I had put a reminder -- they were gone in /minutes/ -- given some of them went to reviewers, I wonder how many were actually for sale...
save that due to "popular demand" that new rare one of 50 watch I bought is not back on pre-order. That'll teach me trying to get on the hype train. It ll go on ebay ASAP even before I open the box.
@@buserror Hi Michael. We're not sure we follow, since your first statement is incorrect. They are back on pre-order right now for an unexpected second production run after we were hit with so many requests to do so. You're stating they are not, but pre-orders are open now until at least the 10th September. It looks like the second round won't be fully produced until May, and although these watches have never been advertised or promoted by us as rare or as a limited edition, the original production run was actually 30 timepieces, and with both production runs, seeing as we are not planning any further releases of this model, the total quantity is also on track to be far less than most limited editions. Please feel free to PM us on our online chat if you have any questions.
I have seen old chronos with the 3 min hashes. What I read was they had something you do with timing long distance phone calls (for billing). No idea if that is correct though.
I'm not sure why they put a small crown on this watch. Most pilot's watches have HUGE crowns so that pilot's can grip them better with their gloves on. Other than that, great watch and great review 👍🏾
Will there be a special for the AliExpress Sale in august? Love your channel, greetings fron the other side of the world, from germany :) Keep it going!
Regarding the '3' division...60 minutes, 12 hours, 24 hours, 60 seconds, 30 seconds, 15 seconds etc...all are evenly divided by 3. This meant a coded vernacular could be used to describe time signatures while maintaining an easily remembered structure. It is similar to the reason Imperial measurements are still used by most in construction, regardless of the metric system adoption.
Hi there , could you please enlighten us on what the logo or insignia thingie above the 6 is all about? Some of their models feature the "Broad Arrow" or "Chevron" logo denoting British Military, but this one is different and rather interesting.
That is really lovely. If I didn’t already have the Dan Henry I would be very interested. Although at only 50 pieces I fear they would be all gone by now. 👌
Store logo on the dial is a nonstarter. It’s the same as car dealerships putting their stickers on the back of anything they sell. Unfortunately this can’t be removed like the dealer stickers.
I like it. So well made. Even overmade in some respects. So very well designed and what a lume. And to be honest in a way the movement lets it down IMO. Think I will snap a different one up with a meca quartz. The rest of the watch has been updated. Think the movement is beautiful but has its limitations and is expensive to service. Almost works against the watch in a way. Great review as usual mate.
As a side note and legibility goes as a field or aviator watch the good old Casio mrw200 is easily the best I have ever owned and needing to wear reading glasses these days is perfect.I have other watches but they don't come close as a quick glance to read the time.
I’m newish to watches, and I really couldn’t tell the difference between watch movements in terms of value. How is a mechanical better than an automatic? I feel like think constantly winding it would become a chore.
I own a Dan Henry as well. Nice little watch and the price is right. I have only seen one previous review of the DH. If you are interested in a chrono you should check it out.
Absolutely gorgeous piece, I love the dial and bezel, not to mention that lume! But it sizes out my six-and-change inch wrists so I guess I'll have to stick with my 38mm Seagull '63, and my Yema Rallygraf!
I've a 6.5" wrist (slightly smaller than Jody's) and I'd say that's the limit. Anything less and the model won't work. The wrist shots on The Microbrand Store site are all my wrist if that's helpful.
I love the dial and the overall look of this watch. I’ll admit I’ve been lusting over it for a while. I would love it if Hemel made one with a Seiko Mecha-Quartz movement. I own the Seagull 1963 but as you said, the reliability is questionable, but you can also get them for under $200 so if it breaks it’s not too big of a deal. At $499, I think that’s a fair price, but the movement may prevent me from pulling the trigger on this one.
Overall great timepiece here. Like the st19 movement. And the bezel looks really useful. A full dial lum is almost like cheating for a lum battle. But It is quite efficient you can’t argue with that. 👍
I picked up a panda chrono from Dan Henry a while back and this is so much more legible (half the cost so there is that). Too bad the lume dial is a limited ed.
G-Day Mate! Been a subscriber for a while now & am loving the content! One thing I have noticed is that I don't get any notifications for your videos. Double checked the bell icon & saw that it was disabled & get the following message when I try to enable it: This action is turned off for content that is made for children. As far as I can tell this only happens on your channel, the other's I'm subscribed to are fine?!
