Apart from the points the Gold Coast has heaps of uncrowded waves especially in winter when the beach break banks are good with westerly winds, not to mention just over the border, waves everywhere.
Sebastion Inlet. I have surfed there since 1972. The new top had nothing to do with changing the wave. There has been a 12 foot rise in the sand off the end of the North Jetty that stretches North and South. Easily seen in aerial photos. Monster Hole has moved North and out. The new top just happened to coincided with the end of First Peak. The last couple of times there was real First Peak was in 2001 or 2002. All of the North side of The Inlet, First and Second Peak and The Lefts, breaks smaller than just a few miles to the North. Even North swells don't get in there. This sand movement is consistent at Ponce Inlet and at Fort Pierce. Both places have a build up of sand on the North side of their jetties.
@@DanHarmon123 So many people will blame the change on the new top. The wave has continuously gotten worse from when the inlet was first cut and the Jetty put in. People that surfed it in the 60's didn't even want to surf it in the 80's. By the end of the 90's it was pretty much done. You could never see Monster Hole from the North side. Monster Hole would break even with the end of the North Jetty and south of where it breaks now. A lot of sand has been pumped/dumped on the North beaches. All washed down into the inlet. Look at aerials of The Inlet. Not dropping names, but the people that know... know. First Peak was as compact as it got for a wave. Elbow to elbow with 8 people. Good channel by the way.
Megga dittos, the sand projects they've been doing in Florida since the early 2000s are insane to me, and because the funding and approval for these projects are done in I think five year increments it's hard to even protest the projects as they come up. Its sad. Plus the approval committees move around from what I recall, for example a sand project that is earmarked for the Sebastian area the approval committee will take place in Jacksonville which for people that don't know is like 3 hours away.
My Family is originally from Orange County and my dad grew up bodysurfing at the Wedge. Ive only surfed it a couple times but that wave is INSANE. The wave will break in less than 2 feet of water with faces over 15' high on some days. Theres a crazy backwash reform type wave that breaks on the very inside of the jetty. You can ride it out and go from a 2' whitewash to 10'+ barreling wave in just a few seconds. It almost always closes out though so you have to be ready (and willing) to take a beating. Once in a blue moon the wave will open up for one of the best barrels of your life. Also during summer they enforce a "blackball" rule during certain times of day. Pretty much means no surfboards or boards with fins allowed. Making it a great place for body surfers!
I learnt to surf as a 19 year old in 1989 at HB pier , lived down in Newport at the pine knot motel for a while , been told its still there ! I always remember the wedge as being only for boogie boarders as it was considered too dangerous for stand up surfers. Seems the trailblazers have altered the consciousness on that over the years , very brave in my opinion !
Durban - South Africa 🇿🇦 Vetch's pier was build in the early 1800's... for ships to enter the harbor safely, as time evolved a bigger better pier was build ... and Vetch's pier, became a reef with the most epic long right hand wave coming off it ... up & until the late 80' early 90' , when the port authorities extended one of the "new" piers by a 100m .. and all the surf from Vetch's reef and most of South Beach disappeared 😕 Vetch's Reef still breaks occasionally.. only when there is really big swell coming through.. Cheers from Sunny South Africa 🇿🇦 🤙🏻
Bowls is absolutely my favorite wave on the south shore, I’m a local here and surf bowls all the time. It is a fast, long , high performance left. There are two main parts that break, the outside and the inside. The outside is a super good long wall but if you want to make the whole wave you will most likely have to pump through to get to the inside bowl. The inside is more of a double up which you can get barreled or do crazy turns. When there are huge swells big bowl or the break further out and to the right breaks, this wave is a gnarly barrel and doubles up on the inside. The wave is sooo good and sometimes I wish all the crowd just disappears as it is extremely crowded.
I watch the live cam there all the time. On good days, the locals blow my mind, and I have to force myself to get on task and go about my day. There will be uncrowded days in heaven, and the sharks won't bite. They will swim up and beg you to tickle their chin.
@@DanHarmon123 Heading down to Tobago to help with the cleanup efforts from the 1.5 million gallon spill of crude oil and Hopefully enjoy some surf in the region on a couple of breaks that we have planned Be well my friend and Stay Safe 👍🤙
Hi mate! What do you think about strapless kitesurfing? Have you ever thought about trying it as a lot of people say they improve way faster on surfing just cause you get like 10x the waves you get just with surfing. :)
Another example: the Santa Cruz harbor mouth right next to Blacks Beach. Rarely breaks, usually after storms where some sand gets filled in, but it can create amazing slabby barrels when it does, RIGHT next to the rocks of the right side of the harbor mouth if you're facing the ocean. Also, Oceanside has a lot of manmade waves due to all the jetties. There are at least two or three.
There’s a new project coming in Oceanside CA to bring back sand. Supposedly there might be artificial reefs and more jetties. Hopefully it makes some world class waves
Hey mate!! Thank you! I do have a short one titled "Lost Waves of the World", but I want to make another one with more waves in it as there have been so many cases!!
The East swell would come toward the beach, as it did, it brushed up along the curve of the breakwater which was kind of Southeast in a gentle arc. So as the wave hit the breakwater, the impact caused the wave to bounce off and bend Northwest toward the beach but not directly, more of a 40-ish degree angle and then it caused this wedgie peak (1st Peak) that would run along northward down the wall of the incoming wave. It was almost machine like in it's precision. I was fortunate to move to Florida in 1973 Indialantic Eighth Avenue and that was the place to go to as a teenager until the infamous Arab Oil Embargo of 1977 happened and gas went from 0.339 a gallon that is 33.9 cents per gallon to like 0.779 or 79.9 cents a gallon. The parents took the Wagoneer away saying it was too expensive for me to drive down there to surf. Oh, the pain of those early life disappointments. I think that was one of the formative destructive points not being able to go surf the Inlet. 17 and experiencing one's first "crush" crushed. I don't think I ever fully recovered.
Ahhh ok!! Thanks for clearing that up mate. I really appreciate the insights as I've never actually surfed it myself. Sounds like it was soooo fun back in the day though!!
Good channel mate i like all your videos. Back in the early 90s we got a bobcat and at low tide we made an artificial reef out of sand at high tide we had perfect right and left handers for about 3 weeks till the sand washed away. We were going to do it again but were warned not to disturb the sand or a big fine would be issued never got the chance to do it again but perfect waves can be made that easy
Only surfed Sandspit once in my four years of living in SB. Surfed it on a small day and it was still one of the most incredible waves I've ever experienced. If you are not an expert do not try and surf it when it's good, it would be more fun to watch from the shore anyway.
Lived in Palm Beach for a while. The artificial reef does not work whatsoever. Maybe in the right conditions, but when it is like that people just go to other breaks
Hi there! Three in Brasil: a) Quebra Mar, Rio de Janeiro It was one of the best surf spots in Brasil, until they reinforced the jetty…they almost killed the waves, but based in what they told me still breaks some good ones ( I belong to the first surf generation there b) Pontal do Atalaia, Itajai, Santa Catarina c) Moles de Laguna, Laguna, Santa Catarina
I learnt something new today. I thought you were wrong by calling that breakwall a jetty. It seems that a jetty can take many forms, one of which is a breakwall.
I remember hearing from the Coffin brothers as a kid that their grandfather, iirc had some involvement with the creation of that sandspit(sandbar as we call it) jetty.
As you know well, there is a stack of man-made in Queensland. My wife’s father’s photos from the 60s of D’bar before the wall show it as a swirling mess. I can remember a school excursion from Camp Hill High in grade 8 in 1969 to Currumbin Rock when we waded across pre groyne. South Straddie’s and Happy Valley’s occasional world class beachies are post groyne.
It's too bad you didn't show Sebastian Inlet at its best. Monster Hole on the South side still breaks with Island power. When they blasted the inlet, the edge of the coquina reef was exposed to the "open ocean" swells coming in from deep water. It can be like a freight train a few days a year. The fishing is always good. It's sharky, they don't call it Monster Hole for nothing. Lol! We fish more than surf around here. Stay healthy, bless up!
Sandspit is rare but awesome when it is on. I used to surf there in the 80's when it was on. I can say it is ultra crowded and hard to get waves. Even in the 80's now it is worse times 100.
@@DanHarmon123 I would have to say Sandspit and Rincon mainly Rincon are a must for people that surf. even though its super crowded it is an unbelievable wave. I lived one offramp up from Rincon growing up so I got to surf there every day after school in the 80's and into the 90's We would ride our bikes on the freeway from Rincon rd 150 to Bates road and then wait for a car to enter the gate to the houses and Set are bikes at a spot we had at indicator. It was pretty awesome growing up in carpinteria in the 70's 80's and 90's
Ala Moana bowls is the best wave on south shore for high performance surfing. The channel makes the reef to become a swell magnet. I would even argue that bowls is the best high performance wave on the island. Simply because the length of ride and because the wave doesn’t have as much power as north shore so you don’t get tossed when hitting a section. I’ve gotten waves out the and have done 6 to 8 turns. It is like a machine out there.
Brighton Marina in England on the south coast on the english channel , when the marina was built in 1979, the east arm created a sloppy point break adding shelter with the chalk cliffs , the wave helped by chalk reef. Works on the drop or push through mid tide in South or South/Westerly (wind) swells even in high winds. If the famous south coast storms and gales have been especially violent over extended days , if the storms drop off quick which they do , it leaves a day or so of clean swell , even more rare the storm wind can change direction while dropping off with a very few off shore sessions being experienced in the last 40 years
Cheers Dan , been a while since Ive braved the cold at the marina as Im landlocked living in Belgrade , Serbia with my Serb wife , although im a Brighton boy. We were just in Bali for a month , a week at old mans , then the right hand reef at Perenenan for the rest , first surfed Perenenan 12 years ago , 3 or 4 in at the most back then ,proper crowded now though ,as you know ! @@DanHarmon123
Aloha kakou , Ala Mo as the locals call it is a left hand break that will handle south swell up to 12’ I once watched Gerry (lightening Bolt) Lopez surfing one of those huge south swells.Ala Moana bowls,is a great left hand break from tube rides to top to bottom surfing for those who shred.I am not a local townie as we call them but I have surfed it many times,it does get a little crowded however week days is best due to everyone is working to live in paradise.Oahu top surfers would be out on good days, Larry, Mark,Buzzy,Sunny,Ben Aina,rhe list goes on. Your post gave me goose bumps and the past came rushing at me…..Mahalo nui for what you do. Aloha Malama pono ahui hou kakou. The lost Hawaiian
I’m a Newport Beach local and live only a few blocks from the Wedge. It’s a novelty wave that’s good for a big drop, a barrel if you are lucky, followed by a severe close out beatdown in very shallow water. A few years ago I watched a guy get slammed into the jetty like a rag doll and was killed.
I live 5 miles from Sebastion inlet and have been surfing there since 1973 and I have seen it change so much, yet its still a decent break and when it's working insanely crowded. Never really knew anything about it being man made...
The wedge used to be a right of passage for every body surfer within range, in the days before bogie boards, becoming famous for the most lost fins and broken collar bones. . I still remember a flash of recognition , as I took off from the top and went straight into a pounding , when I heard the derisive hoots from the spectating crowd on the jetty rocks , and wondering if that meant I had just made a bad decision.
Bodyboards took it to the next level. So called wedge preservation society ruined it. Mostly empty on huge days during blackball as bodysurfers can’t get as much speed to make it. Then it’s insanely crowded after 5. What a waste!!
Shipwrecks on Nusa Lembongan is probably also worth a mention. Not a man made wave, but the addition of the stranded barge has apparently changed the wave
Just heading north leaving the city of Santa Monica, there are a series of jetties. The southern most one, and the longest, can build of sand off the tip, and create a pretty decent wave. never close to perfect, but it can get mean. One made famous (after it was gone) by the documentary about "Dogtown and Z Boys", about the early history of skateboarding, had an extended segment on surfing the Pacific Ocean Pier. At one time this large pier had an amusement park on it, then it was shut down, then it burned down. The remnants formed sandbars that were somewhat hidden from view, and broke really good when the offshores blew. It also had the worst localism of all time. If an outsider came in to surf, some of the guys would remove your carburetor from your car (or some other necessary part), and throw it in the ocean while you watched.
Across the channel from Bowls there a are breakers. We call magic island. I heard from the old timers before those breakers were put there, the surf spot was the best on the south shore. Not sure when they built those breakers.
Palm Beach reef was actually originally designed to try and stop the big swells washing away the sand dunes and destroying water front properties on the GoldCoast. It does has some good snorkeling and diving when the water is clear but isn't a great wave most of the time. It cost taxpayers $20million so they used "surfing reef break" as a way to stop people kicking up such a stink about it.
I read that the entrance to the river mouth at Thurso was dynamited to allow access to boats. I imagine thurso east and sh*t pipe would have joined up beforehand
@@DanHarmon123 possibly. There was an insane swell about 8 year ago and thurso east and sh*t pipe were apparently linking. Without having been dynamited it's possible thurso east used to be a close out
The Wedge is just a weak compensation for the destruction of a long left hand reef break that previously existed at the mouth of the estuary between Newport Beach and Corona Del Mar. It was Duke Kahanamoku's favorite wave in California. My father and his brothers learned by watching the Duke surfing the reef at Corona del Mar. It makes me sick every time some ignoramus raves about the creation of the Wedge.
Super rampy heavy slabs paired with with the wedge can be harnessed Frustrating but time it right the wedge will send you to the moon...9 out of ten waves can be totally crap but that one from ten that will see you do things on a wave that defy physics is more than worth it
@DanHarmon123 Porthleven reef was blown up to create a better harbour entrance, which gave the reef its shape. Not so much specific wave, but Napoleon changed the deep trench and directed it towards hossegor, giving it better size. Love your videos bud.
Wedge drop in before it double triples up or else scorpion spine & crawling on belly out to dry sand board is looking good for strecher to ambulance Humboldt jetties kiwi dream sharky & knarly
Oh, I went there to surf, just not on Hulhumale! Just had a night there, then went to Thulusdhoo (where Cokes is). Yeah, I could never go somewhere like that and not surf hahaha!
You’re 20 years out of date mate. Narrowneck sunk 20 plus years ago. If you google your will find that an Olympic athlete drowned on Palm Beach surfing reef, snorkelling.
I live at Palm Beach and surf here just about every day ,the reef works well but better on south swell as there's a reform on the wider bank that walls up for some epic rides ,when it too straight or northerly swell it basically one main take-off spot and gets super crowded , there are good breaks all along the beach though, unfortunately it's done nothing to lesson the crowds, there's just too many people surfing on the gold coast and getting busier, was never like that back in the day, I've been a Palm Beach resident for 37 years, seen big changes.
Sebastian Inlet,.until the Army Corp ruined it. Sebastian Inlet created more World Champs and competitors than probably any other break, especially from a place that has mediocre waves like Florida. First/2nd peaks were a man-made miracle and it's a shame they destroyed it, not only once but probably multiple times with all the sand projects on top of the jetty Constructions. Treasure what you have if you have anything good and fight like hell if they try to change it.h Surfer Mag did a great story on it. ttps://ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f0bnn1Vfgks.htmlsi=zAXZ_6qXfZVvs_Tu