I am new to worm farming ...I live in hot climate, Queensland in Australia, and I have been using polystyrene boxes instead of plastic for my worm boxes, because they are then automatically insulated from intense heat as well as from the cold in winter. I have mad holes covered with fine netting for air circulation . So far, after several months, the worms are breeding madly and seem very happy . I have named on worm Wilbur but need a few more thousand names :)) I use cardboard and leaves and a little coconut coir for bedding . Thank you for your sharing of great info.
Sherry, thank you for sharing about your system! I am very interested in learning more about the polystyrene boxes! I have not heard of folks using them for composting.
@@GardensofNewEngland You're welcome. Yes they seem to be excellent, and maintain a steady temperature ( it is now midsummer here) although I have not used a thermometer... I am sensitive to temperature and can feel it is quite steady in the boxes. I use ex broccoli boxes which have tifgt fitting lids. They are about 2 ft x 1 ft and lmost 2 ft deep. There are other people who use them in Queensland. The humidity also seems to be constant. ...I live in a high humidity area. I remove the lids daily to check the temp and humidity and if there is any smell etc . I poked several holes in the lids and upper sides , and covered with fine cloth mesh so flies etc can't enter . I only have 1 level ...ie one box for each 'farm' at present , and so I drilled holes in one end of the bottom and I slightly tilt the boxes ( I have 3 ) and have a bucket beneath so that any excess moisture can run off. There has been only a tiny bit so far from one box. I am about to try using a larger box which they use to transport corn ... I will get that next week. The fruit and veg shop gives the boxes away free so it is very economical. I feel the broccoli boxes might be a little too small , but otherwise they have been brilliant, If I change to a plastic tote or tub , I will line it either inside or outside with polystyrene to provide the insulation , it seems to work so effectively . I have my farms in my laundry , mostly because here there are many wild bush turkeys who roam freely through our yards every day , and I worried they might try to peck through the polystyrene. They are strong birds . So if I were keeping worms outdoors I would definitely use a plastic tub lined or covered with polystyrene. However I am also thinking to try a 2 tier farm with your idea of woodchips... sounds great and I love to think my worms are happy . :)) Thanks for you videos. I will watch more soon .
@@sherrywebster1675 Wow! Thank you Sherry!!! I am taking notes from your set up! One of my current questions is how to manage bins outdoors in heavy winter. I think something like what you have inside a non-heated green house could actually work if managed carefully. Have you gone through a whole summer yet using your system? I love the fact that you are using materials that are readily available to you. I think that is what vermicomposting is all about in so many ways. I recently started to get pulp from a local juice bar and it is incredible how quick worms go through pounds of the stuff! Again, all local and free material that would otherwise go to waste.
I believe the single most important component to high quality worm castings is diversity. I am talking about bedding and the foods they recieve. For the past several years I have gone to all natural carbon sources for bedding. Partially finished compost, leaves, leaf mold, dried plant debris. As for the nitrogen, 75% of the food they get are from my yard and garden. By adding a lot of diverse materials into the vermicomposting system, you are also adding the diverse biology and nutrients specific to those materials. You can raise worms in shredded paper and feed them banana peels, they will survive, but the biology and nutrient levels will not be there. Stay Well!!!
100% agree!!! Diversity of inputs determines the output. I specially like dry leaves because different trees have different minerals and that adds trace minerals. I also add a little bit of sand once a year to get some of the silica that is important for plant structure. Thanks for the comment and insights! Much appreciated.
Thank you for sharing your very detailed information on vermicomposting! I started my first bin about 6 weeks ago. So far my worms are thriving. I’ve been watching several RU-vid creators worm vlogs and I’ve learned a lot and part of that is that there are many ways to achieve the same result. I am trying different things to find which are best for me and the resources I have available. You and Captain Matt are the best so far with Epic Gardening is third on that list.
Kathy! Thank you so much!!!! Congratulations on starting your bin! and yes, there are many different ways to get there. For me, once I got the carbon/nitrogen ration right, it all made a lot more sense and the worms were much happier. That was a big moment for me in my process. Anything just ask!!
Yassss I hope a year later now, your wermies are doing wonderful 🥰 I think we started our bin around the same time!! Lolol. It’s a lot of trial and error.. and like you said, finding what works specifically for you! I get sad when people are discouraged when first starting.. and they give up on their wermies all together 🥺 not that I don’t understand the struggle of starting, because I absolutely do!! I panicked every time something went wrong lolol and almost cried a few times because I was worried about my lil guys 🤣🪱 So much of it you just gotta learn as you go. There’s SO much information on the subject.. that many are super intimidated. I was to even start! But I’m glad I decided one day to just buy a very small amount of red wigglers and just do it.. IMO, it’s best to have all your materials ready.. then just dive head first and get your wermies. Then, when issues arise, _(because they most definitely will 🤣 no bin can possibly ever be perfect lolol)_ you do proper research and get to work trying different solutions. Some work great, others do not. So I wish I could tell all newbies to not get discouraged and give up!! Most worms are really hardy and as long as you’re providing bedding and a little moisture, they’ll be alright. They’ll tell you when they’re really miserable by attempting to climb out lolol and *THEN* you can panic like i did 🤣 jkjk. Sometimes it’s as simple as adding more carbon! Less water. Getting a spray bottle to add a little more water. Less scraps. Starving the bin a bit with only bedding. And *time.* New bins sometimes just simply need *time* to get well established and when they do, it’s alllllll wor th it in the end!!! The castings you harvest are incredible 😍 I‘ve grown every plant, veggie, herb and fruit known to man thanks to my lil wermies!! I LOVE them ♥️
Thank you for such a detailed explanation of mites in the worm bin. I've started about six months ago and just now noticed that I had mites! I will check the acidity now that you mentioned it. Thank you again, I love your videos!
Ants do not like high humidity levels. Make sure humidity inside your bin is close to 80%. That should help. Also, you can create an island placing your bin inside a shallow container with water and a bit of dish soap. You put a block or something to hold your bin above the water without touching on any surfaces. That will help keep the ants from coming in too.
Question. When your bin is to humid and I add carbon material like cardboard to balance it, should I put it dry or wet? I saw them in my bin like little spiders.Ty
Definitively dry! I only add damped cardboard if I am starting a bin for the very first time. Once the bin is going, dry cardboard actually helps soak excess humidity. The tiny spiders are likely mites. Mites are not problem on itself, but they signal that humidity and acidity are high. Acidity can harm worms more than Mites. So, if you see mites, it is a signal to check carbon/brown material ratio to food, and to add eggshells or another source of calcium to neutralize acidity.
@@Feoraax Sawdust and eggshells have different functions. Sawdust is heavy carbon / brown material. You can use it to control humidity but once it is wet, keep an eye out for compaction. If it compacts it can create anaerobic zones where oxygen cannot enter and bacteria that cause smells can form. I would use it in moderate amounts in combination with dry leaves and make sure it does not compact. Eggshells provide grit for worms to grind their food, a lot like chickens, and to balance acidity, different profile and benefits than sawdust. With sawdust you also want to make sure it comes from non-treated wood and if it is still a bit green, that it is not from something like pine, eucalyptus, or black walnut that can potentially have harmful substances to worms sensitive bodies--less of a concern if it is dry wood because a lot of the oils break down. When in doubt, pre-compost. I hope that helps!
Rhonda, That's likely a misconception. Mites are after the food scraps just like the worms are. What could happen is that if the conditions for the worms are very bad--example, acidity is very high, which also explains mite proliferation--weak or dying worms will become a target for mites. They wont attack healthy worms, but they will likely start eating a dying worm. In this case, the problem is the acidity causing worms to get sick and die. Mites are just filling their role as decomposers. Mites also do not go deep into the bin, they stay on the surface. So, they would not really be a huge risk to eggs--but acidity would. If a bin has a mite population problem the worms could be in trouble not because of the mites but because of the conditions in the bin that foster mite population explosion. I hope that helps!
No they are not part of the system. I am a professional worm farmer. Mites in the bin means your bed is too acidic. And no its not healthy for the worms... And no not use DE.. Sprinkle some natural crushed limestone in the bin . not garden lime that has other chemicals in it.
Thank you for your input Art! I agree with you on the fact that mites are an indicator that acidity is too high. Since I started balancing carbon and nitrogen correctly, I no longe see mites in my bins. However, mites are a natural element in nature, so focusing on "never having them" might not be as helpful as understanding the conditions that cause mite population explosions. Thank you on the garden lime info! I did not know that. I use eggshells, biochar and a tinny bit of sand every now and then. What are your thoughts on crushed bone meal as a source of calcium carbonate?
