@@RVwithTito LOL. If I hadn’t gone in on the M12 rivet tool. I do enough rivets to make it worth it. The M12 tool makes it a 1 hand operation so you can position what you’re working on. If you do a lot of rivets it’s a game changer A couple of riveted schwintek systems alone makes it a good purchase let alone all the screws that either go into aluminum tubing or nothing at all. Filon is pretty tough stuff, amazing what it will support with rivets when the wood behind is rotted
Yeah. For $40 it has been a great addition to the toolbox. I also used it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ooDZomjQdVk.htmlsi=4r5RZDFt_RtGwhT5&t=657
For others , you might want to same the protruding metal on the outside so the washer sits flat. Advantage is now the wear is on 2 washers rather than one. Using flat head threaded screws eliminates the spacer problem. Also on the inside why not remove the original wear collor and put 3 washers on the inside and long enough screws to thread into the last washer with a dab of blue lock tight. Now you have 5 washers to prevent wear and steel to steel threaded fasteners. Threading into that thin alloy will not keep tight, though the epoxy will help longer term. THANKS FOR THE GREAT INFO. CHEERS AND SAFE TRAVELS. Steve h.
When tensioning slide toppers and awnings wind it like you are rolling up the fabric As a DIYer I like your fix As a RV tech I want to point out the time taken, it’s cheaper to replace than fix if you bring into a shop. While I could make more fixing it the customer would be better served with a new one. The shop charges $179 an hour. If that’s worn are the springs about to break, or another part fail?
I get the tech perspective. Not everyone is willing to DIY. Those who do will learn a lot through the process and then decide whether to attempt this type of fix or even do the full replacement themselves. I did inspect the other components and cleaned/lubed them up prior to reassembly. Just a little surface rust on the spring was all that needed to be removed. From my assessment, it looked like it had a lot more life in it. Time will tell. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Nice job! I get jealous every time I watch one of your videos and see something in your shop I don't have, today it was the bar clamps on the end of one of your work tops. I plan on stealing that idea as my own. I also ordered one of those rivet drill attachments, it would have come in handy when I rebuilt my power cord reel and had to re-install about 20 1/8" rivets.
Thanks! Yes. I love finding cool tools. That clamp at the end of the workbench has also come in very handy. It's inexpensive and easy to make with some pipe clamps (amzn.to/3XYoluq), pipe and wood. Good luck!
I just had to do something similar on my class c. Instead of pulling it out to get the new metal on I just cut a grove in my washer so I could slide it over the tension shaft then screwed it down with the washer off center to cover up the old oblong hole. Not sure if that makes sense but a lot easier than having to pull off the old one. Your way is definitely more professional.
Each hour spent learning means less reliance on others to solve your problems. Yes, you can spend your money to expand your tool collection along with that new knowledge.
Love your very well done videos. Thank you for your effort. I got really excited about that rivet attachment. As a Dewalt guy I thought it was Dewalt but your link took me to another brand. That was ok because the idea of not dragging out the compressor and the hose was exciting. The reviews were really bad. Under 60%. Mostly jamming issues. Curious what has been your experience? How much have you used it? Thanks for the feedback.
I'm a DeWalt guy too, but couldn't justify the dedicated cordless rivet gun. It was really expensive. For around $40 this drill attachment has worked just fine. I have not had any problems. I also used it for this project: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ooDZomjQdVk.htmlsi=4r5RZDFt_RtGwhT5&t=657 Hope that helps.
@@RVwithTito It did Brian. Thank you much. I often do not buy a product on amazon unless it has atleast 70% 5 star rating but your opinion goes along way. Also saw a rivet nut attachment. Too excited. Lol
This is really a great fix!! I need to replace my awning material. So how do you know what size to order? And how do I know if I have an electric dometic or a lippert??
Go to www.toughtopawnings.com they have clear instructions. If you need help then Tyler will help you figure it out. Mention RVWITHTITO and also get a discount.
Looks like it will work for a while but eventually fail again and probably much soooner because you may have reduced the surface area for the shaft to rub against. I’m not clear why you didn’t get a oil impregnated bronze bushing and cut it down to size as needed instead of a washer. I can’t quite see all the clearances you have to work with when it’s all assembled but I think you have enough room to give it a nice 3/8 or so of material to work with so it should last another 30 years or so.
@@RVwithTitoI was making fun of the so-called manufacturers, whose boomer economics couldn't be bothered to put a real bearing in there. Yet they charge full price for their sticks-n-staples design.
@@my_channel_44 Thanks. I happened to have a bunch of those 1/16th thick washers around. So that's what I used. I'll see if my local specialty store has the thicker washers. I'm sure they do...I was just there today to get all new stainless screws for when I reattach the toppers :)
Wow. That's the neatest Awsome straight forward solution. Thanks I need to replace plastic caps on my outside window awnings. It's so awesome my vectra is a Cousin to your winnebago Again you rock Hope to see you at quartsite Ka7qqv Don
