Wratchet Axle Setup and suspension travel. 

You're going to have to run at least 1 plunging. Even if it's only 1/8" of movement it's destroy the splines as it moves in and out. Those angle ratings are under torque. So you can take a plunging and move it further as long as you're not under engine power.

Good to see you back!

Super mov I like the travell I learned good stuff I watch you close

Hey Doug not sure if you read these. Was curious if you talked to the guys who built the axle about a micro stub setup for the Toyota hub at the wheel side. Love the channel and the idea of off the shelf parts like the Toyota stuff. supercool builds!

Gorgeous job 👍👍👍work of master 👍👍👏👏👏👏💯💯

Great info thanx champ

try the same torque test you did with the old plunging shafts. CV in one hand, CV axle in other hand, turn them in opposite directions and try to plunge on the splines, you'll have a lot of bind. It might never break anything but it will negatively affect suspension action....

I found your channel through a search for information about buggies. Very informative in my opinion. My best friend was about 60% complete with his buggy build when he passed away and his project was handed to me while he was sick just prior to losing him. I came here in search of some answers to questions I have about how to complete the project more so as a commemorative build than anything. What I know about it: 35” tires 4 cylinder ecotec engine with an aftermarket turbo Computer has been flashed for turbo use Weddel transmission A-arm suspension front and rear. What it is missing: Axles and cv joints Coil overs, limiting straps and bump stops Paint and body skins Brake lines All wiring I’d like to start with obtaining and installing the suspension components and drive axles as I believe these will be the most expensive parts and obviously the most crucial. Any advice on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and keep the content coming !

G'day, Very interesting to see the difference between the plunging cv and non plunging cv. ✌️ Peace.

The long-travel sand-rails we used to build never used plunging CV's, only non-plunging 🤷🏼

Hi Doug from personal experience I highly suggest you go with a plunging CVS

I have no experience with CVS but I think I would run the plunge as others have said. What you could do is send this video to the Transaxle builder and the CV builder and ask their opinion. Another thing to think about off-road. Is ruff and if you side slap the wheel/rim the plunge could absorb some of the movement side to side. Good luck.

# 3 👍🏻 !!

are those orange boots a good quality? do they last longer than the Bates, or Empi? if so, where did you get them? Thanks good video.

You really need some compensation for axle length variations under all circumstances. Otherwise you'll stack the drive shafts, blowing out a CV-joint and you're on foot within a few miles. Even the RC cars (on which you base everything on) have some compensation. Normally the shafts are at the shortest at ride height. Even if you had measured no shaft length difference statically, dynamically -while driving- is a whole different story. Plus, you can't even adjust the camber one tenth... Wait a minute? Do you allow for length changes on the inner splines?? As the slip joint? I'm sorry, but this is all wrong. Please use the plunging CV. If you don't believe me, please ask around.

Where did you get the original U-Joint axle?