Co-incidentally, I was using a ring light in freshwater two days ago, with the same creatures in your video - namely zebra mussels and signal crayfish. One thing to note with still photography is that the strobe mode is a slow burst, which means it won't mask any camera shake. So increasing shutter speed may be necessary. But in constant mode, your camera is no longer confined to synchronised shutter speed, so you can increase it even more! But you will need lower f-stop / increased ISO to get the right exposure.
It's very rare that I would use just one light. So I would imagine that using this light while combining it with normal video lights would be way to do it getting best of two worlds. That looks very helpful even just as focus light.
Absolutely. It just can't be triggered by an internal flash then. But it has a button on the side for turning it on and off and changing the intensity of the output.
I have the weefine ring light 3000 and like you, I like the ring effect on the eyes. Despite it's flat, I also like the overal softness. I prefer the weefine 3000 because it has more lumens which I think lacks a bit here. The x-adventurer has one big advantage I think: being able to be stacked between lens and port. Despite, you probably lose a bit of light in the process has the lens is blocking some of the light, you don't get the hassle of having to unscrew light from macro lens then macro from the port and then do the reverse if you have to swap macro lens underwater (which I do quite often). In the end, that hassle with the weefine has led me not to use as much as I would like this type of light. On a side note, I've seen lately a fair number of divers (mostly biology-oriented divers rather than U/W photographs/videographers) using ring-lights with the Olympus TG series.
Completely agree on the part with the wet lens. That’s a big bonus for the x-adventurer version. In my opinion the 1800 lumen the x-adventurer has, is enough for macro shots.
Of course. Everything shall be neutral. Otherwise it will mean shakes (not tripod everytime...) or worst, camera escaping from your hands and sinking :) Also, there are lots of times what we do not use tripods... like when lying in a sandy bottom to shoot details from a flaunter... or ray.
@@Histogramas thanks firvthe feedback 🙃 my comment was just on macro as both Mattias and Critter Hunter on previous videos had said using a tripod was the most important thing fir shooting macro
@@DubaiDiver I am referring to macro as well. I am a Nudibranch "collector" (over 200 species captured on camera along last 12 years) either for academichal documentation purposes or just for fun. There are lots, and I really mean lots, of times that we cannot use tripods, either because the wall do not have space for a tripod or its just vertical or because the critter is in a hole. Or there is just too much swell. Amongst other. On these situations, either for photo as for video, we have to get our trim right, our boiancy right so we can have a steady image. If our photo/video gear is not well balanced and trimmed, the result is that we will become tired sooner and because we are constantly compensating for the direction and weight (or lack of it) of the setup, images will be hard to get and footage will be shaking and or out of focus easily. A properly neutral and especially a properly well trimmed setup will help a lot in these situations.
I agree with @MagiCdiveS, you wanna have your rig properly balanced no matter what. It will make your shooting experience so much better and will generally result in better footage. The only time I would make my rig too heavy, is when I know 100% for sure that I will use a tripod for the shot I’m looking to get. But no matter what the situation, I always want my rig to be balanced, so it’s not front or back heavy or rotating around its own axis.
Hi Matthias, überlege mir gerade die Anschaffung des Teil aber von Weefine. wie verhält sich das Teil eigentlich bei uns in den Seen hinsichtlich Backscatter? Deine Bilder von den Krebsen sind ja mal interessant... Ist es zu empfehlen, nach ein wenig mehr Einsatz als zum Zeitpunkt des Videos? Grüsse vom anderen ende des ZH-See
Hallo Paddy Bei uns in den Seen wirst du immer mal wieder Probleme mit Backscatter haben wenn du mit solch einem Ringlicht arbeitest. Das hat einfach mit der Anzahl Schwebeteilchen und der Positionierung des Ringlichtes zu tun - welche du ja nicht anpassen kannst. Wenn Schwebeteilchen da sind wirst du ein bisschen Backscatter haben, hängt aber auch davon ab, wieviel Sediment du aufwirbelst beim Positionieren vor deinem Objekt. Grundsätzlich finde ich dieses Ringlicht nach wie vor sehr interessant. Ich würde es nicht ständig und auf jedem Tauchgang nutzen, aber für gewisse Effekte (Ringe in den Augen) eignet es sich sehr gut und funktioniert auch einwandfrei. Der Einsatzbereich ist allerdings recht limitiert und ich mag es ehrlich gesagt lieber etwas kreative mit meinem Licht umzugehen und dieses so zu positionieren wie ich möchte, von Situation zu Situation unterschiedlich. Hoffe das hilft ein bisschen? LG Matthias
No I haven't used it with the DiveVolk housing. But as long as you have the right adapter to attach it, it should work just fine. You will probably have to glue the optical cable to the spot where the iPhone flash sits. This could turn out to be a bit challenging, but probably doable.
