Xbox One S All Digital Randomly SHUTTING DOWN + Faulty CONTROLLER - Can I FIX Them? 

The enthusiasm in that one got me too!

I dunno. Caps are a lot better these days. Unless they have been abused. They were a problem in the mid 2000s to earley 2010s

@@FennecTECH It is exactly opposite and they abuse them

no doubt totally agree! well put. truly ty

I like things to go bang, but that's scary 😳. I always power up out of range, using extension cord.

@@jonathaningram4672 It's a good thing that het clipped the power supply casing back together before testing.

I am a beginner but I have also heard that you can replace caps with same or bigger voltage rating and capacity not lower. Correct me if am wrong

@@renataavgeri1132 Same here, higher capacity not lower otherwise erm goggled people, this could get messy. Tee hee

@@renataavgeri1132 In some cases, yes you can use a higher voltage rating, but not always. Once you start getting into capacitors with a voltage rating higher than 50v, the internal layout of the plates is different to allow for higher voltages to be used. This can increase the ESR of the capacitor to the point where it becomes a problem on circuits designed to operate at lower voltages. Something else that increases ESR is the capacitor size. In electrolytic capacitors, the smaller the capacitor is, the higher the ESR is going to be. So I don't recommend using those cheap generic Chineseium caps you find on ebay that are the size of a grain of rice, they definitely can cause problems. If you don't want to have a big inventory of capacitors to account for all of the various voltages, you can just stock 25 and 50v caps for all of the smaller ranges under 1000uF, where size generally isn't too critical. For above 1000uF, you'll generally be fine with 16v and 25v rated caps. Unless you're working on specialized power supplies with high voltage rails, you generally don't see large value caps over 25v.

🐶💩 =🤮

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It wouldn't have made sense for them to use a different power supply - it's effectively in the same shell and it would probably cost them more if they did use a different model.

I suppose the drive is married to the board as well - so if this married chip on the drive does not have the CPU keys it won’t work … (cfr PS4)

No, the firmware also isn't different. With a disk-based Xbox One the motherboard and the daughterboard (the board in the disk drive) are matching and because there is no matching daughterboard for an all-digital Xbox One motherboard, any disk drive you'll plug in will return a key mismatch and therefore won't get recognized.

@@MyRegardsToTheDodo as I suspected - I don’t see how programming these is impossible - a Nintendo switch’s emmc can he rebuilt

@@cheapasstech It's not impossible, IF you manage to hack into the Xbox One and extract the key from the mainboard, and then find a way to flash the daughterboard on the drive. It was possible on the Xbox 360 with RGH. However, the Xbox One isn't even remotely hacked and probably will never be. The Nintendo Switch's pre-2019 models are fully hacked, that's why you can rebuild the emmc on these consoles, if you manage to get the keys from the old emmc (doesn't work on the Switch Lite or any newer Switch Phat models, and definitely not on the OLED models). If your old emmc is so far gone that you can't extract the keys, you're also screwed. Also, the Switch's emmc is rewriteable memory, while the Xbox's drive key is stored on read-only memory on the drive and the board.

There’s special tape u can use to suck up solder to

@@howtowithelizabeth7513 If you're referring to desoldering wick, I've known about that for many years (and have some), but would still like to have a desoldering gun vs using the pump or wick.

This is because the psu in these xboxe's stay fully active and never goes to sleep even though the xbox itself is in standby or powered off and that can put alot of strain and wear on the psu.

Actually I did not see this cap was bulging but the capacity decrease its definite sign of wearing out. Yes I know the 20% tolerance but that is usually uppers the low side is much lower. But the biggest argument is this 100 uF cap should be in the feedback line and that can cause really strange issues. The other two big buffer not really problematic in this age of own.

Nice one Mike 👍👍

Uh Hi Vince

I watch You Vince

I love you Vince

I'm a celebrity

Thank you so much for watching the vids and buying the mug🙂👍 Happy New year to you and your family too🥳

🤣👍

Would it be worse if it was live skin?

@@Jeff121456 I guess it would depend if the controller was made of living flesh :P

I would be interested also.

Looks like the Anesty ZD-915.

Thank you Chris, I didn't realise they lasted longer. I just ordered them from RS components but had to buy 25 of them 😥 Once they arrive I will swap them out along with the 50V 100uF one. At least I will have enough for 11 power supplies 👍👍👍

@@Mymatevince Just remember to get low-ESR capacitors, as switching PSUs shouldn't use general purpose caps. You need to look up specific series in caps to find suitable ones.

That wasn't liquid metal, liquid metal for one is always a liquid (never drys) secondly it's a shiny silver color not just solid grey.

I once had an Xbox One X that failed after about 30 minutes, took a few times to restart, and failed again shortly after. I then had to wait for a while and it would work again for about 30 minutes or so, then crash again, rinse and repeat. Never figured out what was wrong with it, I put in a new harddrive, new PSU, even new fans. Might have been caps-related too.

Mine's going strong. It's probably five years old at this point.

Yes very noisy!