Thank you Taylor! In my case a screw was floating in the joypad after it hit the ground. The screw was captured by magnet of left trigger. Pressing the left trigger, the screw hit the circuit board damaging some paths. With your video I can see the sensor is still working but its output went lost because broken paths. With a soft solder I restored the path and now the left trigger works again like a charm!
Fun facts, the Hall effect sensor was first used on the Sega Dreamcast controller, it's a brilliant idea where Analog Potentiometers that are like the classic brushed motor with wearing tear are replaced with something more solid state/digital that won't suffer stick drifting as common with all other controllers, I don't understand why Microsoft didn't also use it on the 3D analogue stick like Sega did on the Dreamcast.
Thank you! You and your easily accessible pinouts helped me check my hall effect chip's voltage and verify my chip was fine, but vout was not soldered well on the board. Controller salvaged
this was so helpful. i threw my controller and the housing for the magnet broke and thought that was game over but no....... after watching this vid i played with the magnet and wahay it started to work. now glued back together and works fine. thanks for this vital info!
thank you so much for just pointing where the sensor is. i kept reading online about it. I had a screw inside the tope left side. the screw by the trigger button. this screw had come lose and was stuck to the magnet. well the sensor has been destroyed by the screw so yeah. im not very happy
pekelo silveira jr yeah I saw this problem on r/xbox somewhere too so I think it may be somewhat common which isnt good. i opened mine up and got the screw out but I had to take it to a cell phone repair place that does basically everything and they replaced my hall effect sensor so it's working now but the screw had it all scratched up.
Thank you very much for this video! Helped me a lot. Btw. as far as i'm concerned, the trigger bumps the bottom shell of the controller, the motherboard is not intended to be touched by the trigger. The pad is just additional protection. A tip for the future is, pls clean your desk before shooting vids like that, it would be a far more pleasing experience. Greetings!
My desk is never cleaned during projects. I built a new work bench that's 3ftx8ft and its covered with stuff during projects. Can't help it Haha. Thanks for watching.
@@Solder_king i get it :D . Just a short question, could i theoretically solder a switch like a MX to the voltage input and ground and connect voltage in and voltage out. would the switch short and make the trigger "trigger"? :'D
@@Solder_king thank you very much for your answer. I'm not that good in electronics 😅. Why do I want a resistor? My plan is to wire a cherry mx switch to that. It has obviously to pins which can make connection if the switch is clicked... What parts do I need and what would be the smartest way to connect everything (solder)? Thank you very much for your help... I wish I have that knowledge 😂
Great video thanks, I had a screw stuck to the magnet that I didn’t know was there and it kept striking the circuit board until the board was damaged enough and the trigger doesn’t work
I seem to have an interuption in voltage to both triggers, no response to trigger pulls on either. Any thoughts? My first thought was "Buy a new one". have I made the right choice?
I just opened up my controller , then my LT suddenly got fixed lol. I assume its too tight thats why its constantly pressing. Maybe opening the controller loosen it up a little. Anyway, thanks cause this video courage me to open the controller! Very simple explanation, hard to find people who explain this problem.
Not sure how common this problem is, but it took me a very very very long time to find somebody provide a fix for this problem. My controller has the same issue, trying to find the chip is proving difficult!
I know it's been a while since you upload this but if for some reason you read this. Do you know if is there a way to replace the sensors with an actual switch? Like the Rb/lb type of switches o a remap.
Valuetaker It is possible to replace them with a switch such as a tactile but you won't be able to achieve the gradual changes the sensor offers. For example, if you're playing a racing game and the trigger is the gas you can control the speed of the car by using the trigger so if you want to go fast you press the trigger all the way down, if you want to go slow you press it down a little. If you replaced the sensor with a button there wouldn't be any way to go slow in a racing game because the button would emulate the trigger being pressed all the way down all the time.
Yeah! Im aware of that but It would be better than nothing since I dont have a replacement for that sensor. I have littlee experience installing tac switches for ''scuf alike mods'' But I dont know where or how to bridge the RT . Btw thanks for responding!
Valuetaker Not a problem! I love responding when I can. For this sensor and the mod you want you'd need to add a switch from the output of this sensor to ground. I believe I drew the pin out and covered it in one of my videos
Yes, this video just what I needed. Long story short, taking apart controller to troubleshoot RT and notice screw missing, no big deal right? But found said screw stuck to the trigger. The hall effect chip is phisically damaged and pissed at whoever conned my ex into buying (yes, $70).
Could I take a sensor from another controller same model and just replace it ? I’m getting a reading as if the trigger is being pushed but it’s not. I took the magnet out and it still was acting as if it was being pushed
Do you know where to find replacement magnets, or even trigger brackets with the magnets already on them? I'm trying to repair my boyfriends controller and I lost the magnets and I've been searching everywhere on the internet for replacements
Hello, sorry to hijack but i'm looking for a controller to buy. I search and search'd but found nothing about the triggers. So, are triggers just transmit 1 and 0 or have multiple values. i want to use it with F1 2016 to control the throttle and break :)
That register just needed to be cleaned,I took a tooth brush and rubbed it hard all the area where the magnet touches,but not hard enough to damage it,it works back fine niw
I'm having a lot of trouble with my newest controller. It automatically shoots and aims down sights, but I cannot spot any immediate issues when I looked inside?
If you live in the States you can ship it to me and I can take a look at it for you. I want to make more videos solving these issues so I wouldn't ask for any money
Thanks dude, just changed my sticks then one trigger stuck on when testing but i couldnt work out how it worked but after watching your great video I looked for the sensors and found that one had fallen off presumably whilst i was desoldering the switch, now i just have to find the old tiny sensor or try and get a new one, At least i now know what happened, you live and you learn 🤔🤔 does anyone know if/where these sensors can be bought from ???
Hi Taylor, my left trigger is also having a similar problem, the LT button is constantly being pressed even when the trigger itself is not being pressed down. Under the casing I do not have the rubber pad that protects the motherboard so I believe the motherboard could have suffered some damage itself from the constant bashing of the trigger. There's a small crack/scratch on the surface of the motherboard that runs from above the Hall effect sensor and down approx 1 centimeter below it (I think this is a crack/scratch).If possible, could I send you a couple close up pictures of what is going on so you could take a quick look for me and help me find out whether this is the issue please :)
Any idea why my complete left side would constantly vibrate when testing my controller on the tester app from the Microsoft store? It goes crazy both the trigger motor and the vibrator motor?
Hey man! My Right trigger causes forward movements. What causes this and how can I fix it? I also have another controller that is completely crazy on movements, completely unusable.
Thanks for the video, just took one apart expecting to see the pots on left/right and while I knew what it was doing, I had no idea how to test it with a meter. I do wonder, does anyone make an xbox 1 controller WITHOUT hall effect switches? Something xbox 360 like for the one....
I did get angry at my game and threw the controller at the ground. I've noticed that the left trigger doesn't spring back into the default position, feels kinda sticky and I can click it back into place. When I click it back into place, it looks normal but when I press it the triggers shifts back. Gameplay is unaffected by this but it is annoying to me. I'm curious to know how to fix it if possible. Please respond and thank you.
I have a power a controller and it has some partially rotating thing which detects trigger what's it called i want to buy a replacement my LT is pressing it self
Can you identify the component at U9 ? Filter possibly? My triggers always show 100%. Short leads to U9 location on board. Dripping ipa on U9 component, it evaporates rapidly, with power in xbox controller pcb.
Please I am trying launch a project where I am trying to convert my automatic ac controller to touch screen. I am trying to figure out what kind of switch or sensor are the ABXY bottoms. I am sure it is the same type of switch on my ac panel.
hay i have the same i brought the controller and both triggers not working tested them with the meter and i getting nuffin swapped out one of the sensors and still nuffin want can be wrong ? thanks
I have a Wolverine controller made by razor the trigger broke literally! I would need to use some sort of glue or epoxy to get the trigger to adhere back. Do you have any suggestions of what would work best for that sort hard plastic?
while playing Halo 5 or BF1 while xbox 1 controller right trigger suddenly stops responding when I hold the trigger or sometimes doesn't respond with the initial press, but I release the trigger it always but there is sometimes brief gaps or stops ! ... something with the sensor !? thanks !
I finally found the sensor on Ali express after 2 years of rigorous searching through the vast expanse of the world wide web. A1304ELHLX-T A1304 304 SOT23-3 SOT-23 Chipset
Do you think the sensors of all controller are the same? I have a xbox one s controller and a xbox one elite controller, the elite one stopped working but never had the sensor problem, can I remove the sensor from the elite one and put it in the xbox one s controller?
I have never seen the inside of the S controller but if the hall effect sensor is the same as the other then yes you can replace it, given it is the issue. I'd love to take a look at it if possible. I've fixed a few from people who watch my videos :)
Hey i read where u were trying to make a video on how to fix the controller and the specific part? My right trigger is having this exact issue where its constantly saying that im holding the trigger down. The little black box thats on the mother board does seem to be cracked or something due to competitive gaming that i do. If your still looking for someone to allow you to fix it mines an xbox elite controller and id really appreciate the help. I am a competitive gamer and not having my elite controller, its pointless to try and compete against the competition i have to go up against. Regular controllers just dont compete. 😞 i need help at the very least to try and fix it.
I'm assuming you mean hall effect sensor itself is cracked. The only way to resolve this issue is to replace hall effect sensor completely. If you don't have any prior soldering skills / knowledge, i wouldn't attempt this repair.
Has anyone figured out which hall sensor is correct to use as a replacement or what the voltage and current specs are for the hall sensor marked 304 (U10 and U11 on the PCB)?
I got the problem that the xbox / pc thinks the trigger is permanently pressed. I opened it and measured the voltage of both hall effect sensors like you. on both sides i get a reading of 248 mV when not pressed and decreasing voltage as i press them. Seems like the sensors work... any ideas on how to possibly solve this issue? thanks in advance
That seems like it could be a few other failed componets. There were a few passive componets next to the hallefect. It was a cap and I believe a resistor. The cap probably could have shorted due to use. You can probe both sides and test for continuity or I could have a look at it for you. I want to address more xbox one issues and remedy them. i am more than qualified as I work for an electronics research and dev company as a repair tech. send me a message if you are interested in that :)
hey, i know its 5 years ago. i tested my controller and the hall effect sensor shows 0.02 volts. does this mean i have to replace the hall effect sensor or is there anything i can do?
Okay I have an idea. I have two controllers. One of them has the same problem as everyone else, magnet came loose, got stuck to the sensor, fucked my controller. Then my other one just has the drifting analog stick problem. I've tried fixing it and it may just be something broke. I was thinking I could take the RT button off that controller and replace it with the broke one. That way I can use my controller without either problem, the drifting or the constant shooting. Only thing is, idk how to go about taking the RT off of the controllers.
Taylor Burley it actually might be easier to just replace the analog stick now that I think about it. I've looked at both of them and there isn't really a difference at all. Don't see anything broken unless I'm blind
Jay Money The analog sticks can be hard to remove due to the amount of grounded solder joints. The case is grounded and so are 2 of the 6 pins which means that they're all going to a ground plane which takes a decent amount of heat to flow the solder because of the plane acting like a heat sink.
Let me take this opportunity; you're awake, I'm awake....I tested my triggers with a multimeter just as you did, the voltage was fine. One thing I noticed though, is that the motor under the LT doesn't vibrate anymore. Could this be related to the problem?
+Taylor Burley damn..I hope I can find a solution for that, I don't wanna spend money on that right now! Well, I'll look into that. Thanks for the prompt response.
fr3rAmBR No problem! Hopefully you find a solution. It may be unlikely but it is possible that the motor is causing it not to work for a few reasons. I would investigae that and see if you can get that workimg
My problem is that when I press rt it will act as if it is still held down after I let go. Its only slightly but gets annoying. Only way I see to fix it was to pull the trigger in a upwards motion pulling away from sensor. Not sure how to permenatly fix this but would love to because I did alot of work on this controller
I repaired the LT button, because it was broken and then it dont worked, no signal at all wihle pressing. The magnet was upside down, that fixed it Didnt knew that this changes anything
Daniel Prieto yeah I was just playing ghost recon and I was making a yt video of an attack on a base with my Xbox controller. My controller will randomly shoot at times when I don't even press it. So I was almost done with killing everyone in the base without being spotted till my controller took a massive shit and decided to shoot at a group of guys. Because of this incident my limited edition forza 6 controller now looks like it's been through a fucking grinder.
both of mine measure on exactly 0.04 volts and there's no change if I try to press the corresponding trigger down... oh and the big vibration doesnt work but I'd prolly desolder them because its annoying
+Taylor Burley thank you for replying but it's the rectangle connected to the Circuit board and the magnet hits one spot and keeps on hitting that one spot and it got damaged and almost split but also it empty out all my ammo with out pressing the trigger like non-responsive
I have a tensiometer Xbox one wired controller and apparently noone has ever had ANY issues with that trigger because NOONE has ever searched how to fix one and got an answer I've been scouring the internet for an hour and it just keeps recommending this video to me if anyone has a video explaining how these types of triggers work that would be great
Hi I need some help, is it possible to wire a potentiometer to that sensor, I am building a racing sim and would like to wire potentiometers to the xbox one controller bord. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it. Thanks
when I start a game of call of duty or something my controller auto aims and auto shoots and I don't even press the triggers which is weird but I tried this and it didn't work😢
if the output goes down when the magnet gets close that means its pulled high naturally. So if you remove the sensor it would still be pulled high. This should not cuse an issue however there are two passive componets that work long with the sensor. A cap and a resistor. If they are damaged it can change the state of the sensor, for example if the cap was broke or shorted it could pull low and send a false trigger. I would be more than happy to take a look at it for you
That is a really weird problem. Has this problem been around since you first started using the controler? sounds like there might be a short inside the controller
man you are great, now you explained how it works but i want how to fix please asap thank you m8 you got my sub and like and fav :)waiting your respond.
Sephirot1983 if you just have drifting, like the trigger is slightly pulled, you can tune it out in the configuration app. Just increase the zero on the effected trigger
