you work on things a lot like I do, nothing delicate about my style. The only difference is my project often ends with me saying "oh well, it was broken anyways"
The "trick" for working on anything like this, were the pcb is heavy copper or tightly heat sunk to the case (ie most power electronics) is either buying a cheap hot plate (set to 100 degC to pre warm the unit) or, if you're willing to exchange some cost for some more risk, is to use a hot air gun (paint stripper type) to VERY CAREFULLY warm the entire unit to around the same temp! (keep the hot air gun well away (12" or so) keep it moving, don''t rush the heating! Do that, and you'll find your normal iron pops components off no probs at all! (BTW, the capacitance of a capacitor is always very different as the tolerance is usually -10% + 20%. Far more important is the ESR of the capacitor, particularly, as here, when it is being used as a voltage snubber (ie it is absorbing a lot of ripple current)
Mine had the current measuring smd resistor blown up (the green one in the corner 500mOhm / 3W). Sadly, I couldn't find any of those in stock, so I had to improvise and solder two 1Ohm resistors in the same 2010 package back to back in parallel config.
Excellent ballast repair bro! I just swapped out my ballast with an Amazon one and I'm interested in opening it up and seeing if the capacitor is bulging or burned and needs to be swapped! 😊
What kind of insane device is this!? There's an 80-pin microcomputer chip to run a light bulb!? Please, someone get those German engineers laid! I remember when a light bulb was a few bucks and only required connection to a 12 volt dc power source. People have lost their damn minds.
I cant complain about the design of those ballasts, they do last a long time and there are a few safeties programed in probably a lot more. The ballasts have protection against failing bulbs and prevent overheating of the ballasts or damaging bulbs. They do sense if the bulbs have failed, if you loose both lights, it will reset automatically and try to reignite, no fumbling to try to regain lights
11:45 This is a good example of the difference between a soldering station's max temperature and it's thermal capacity. It may be able to heat the tip to 480 C normally, but the temp will rapidly drop on a heatsink like that, and the station / iron can't keep up. I would strongly recommend you switching to a less pointy "chisel" tip of around 2-3mm width. It honestly makes a massive difference to getting good heat transfer, and might even help in heatsink situations like this one. ;) With the slightly wider / shorter chisel tip, you don't really need to get the iron side-on to the components either, just end-on. But, the chisel tip can still be used to solder very small SMD stuff, by using the corner of the tip. Seriously, try a decent chisel - it will change your life. :p
19:00 The capacity of that iron looks pretty good tbh. I'm convinced that MOSFET would have been removable without nibbling if the iron had a different tip. Is that a Hakko or Weller clone of some type? The beeper sounds identical to my Duratool / Rhino / Zhongdi de-soldering station though, so I'm guessing you might have a combo version?
+ElectronAsh it's unbranded, bit I have seen a duratool variant. I do have other tips and heating elements but not need to replace either in over 7 years 😁 good iron.
Hello. Thanks for the video. We are trying to repair similar device. After i have changed transistors and diode was were broken, the lamp start to light for 3 second and than stop. Do you have any idea what to check additionally. Thanks in advance.
The capacitor which was warming up is on the low voltage supply. It heats up due to high ripple current from the inverter. Even ballasts with no faults show this capacitor heating up. What was the conclusion in this case? The tutorial was highjacked by adverts that bypassed my adblock and I could not see the end.
what are the parts called? Is the transistor unipolar or bipolar? can you give me more details about the small black transistor because i need to change it and i don't know anything about it? thanks !
The reason you’re having a pain with de-soldering things is that you have a pointed tip on the soldering iron. First thing you should have done when you got your iron was to bin that tip. Use either an angled knife edge type or a chisel shaped. Use the broad flat edge of either tip against the MOSFET tab. It’ll go much quicker. It doesn’t matter how high you turn up your iron’s temp. If you can’t get those watts transferred to the work, it’s all for naught.
i use the broad chisel style soldering tip at work a lot, helps to dump heat into parts evenly, your always going to struggle with the point tip. thanks for the video!
@backofficeshow 33:51 is that FLIR camera fixed/modded to use a cable instead of the short connector ? I have a similar one that I broke the connector :/
Hi there! I own a Mercedes C200 kompressor and I have an issue with the headlights,the right 1 especially.Is turning off for like 2 3 seconds then come back then again,I have replaced the droser but not with a new one,it worked for like 2 months and now I have the issue again but on the both headlights,some opinions,I did have a problem with the alternator,i have change it and I still have the headlight issue.maybe a short circuit?
Silicon tube on a solder sucker? www.amazon.co.uk/Quality-Innovative-Silicone-Nozzle-Engineer/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512222991&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+ss-02+solder+sucker I have one since over two years now and am very happy with it. The tube really makes a big difference and the vacuum didn't get weaker over time (in opposite to all the other solder suckers I had before), so quality spring and sealings. It came with a quite long piece of replacement tube, but so far I didn't have any reason to replace the original piece. But I don't use it that frequently too.
Hello Master Andrea! i have the same problem with my ballast AL(bmw e46), where i can find the capacitory epcos and the transistor? The transistor is different from the OEM? Thanks in advance
+Paolo Perozzi eBay us your friend! Type in the part numbers of what you have in there and hopefully they will have some. Have a look and let me know if successful.
@@backofficeshow Ebay is NOT your friend. Too many inferior counterfeit components for sale there. Buy your parts from a reputable electronic supply company such as Digikey or Mouser.
I changed capacitor and power mosfet IRL2910 and still same problem :( When are xenon's cold no problem with start, but after 20 minutes when the xenon heats up and the next switch-off / on is no longer working, only the right xenon does not light up. But after a while the left xenon (which shines) gets warm, I turn off / on, right xenon shine up again .. please help :) .. I have VCDS and i got this error from ballast: 65535 - control unit: memory error
Have you tried any other makes of lamp? I know it sounds crazy but this can be the problem. I recall measuring with a thermal camera and they were holding steady, but it was the xenon lamps themselves.
No, I did not try other lamp manufacturers, I only exchanged them with each other (the left lamp I put on the right side and right on the leftside) still is a problem with the right side. An error message when the right xenon does not light up : the resistance value is too high
