Xmaxx 8s all three differentials--fluid check/fluid replacement. 

That’s awesome! Glad the video helped!

Your welcome an thanks I appreciate it

Reenforce tires with duct tape. In a belting fasion. Or you could belt them externally with fishing line or kevlar string.

@@mortonbeard2240 or just come off the power a little. When is this a problem? Thanks

Earplugs in center makes sense. But why tape and string? Seems over kill for driver error

@@coolhawk2003 NEVER! 😆

Thank you an Your welcome!

Thanks I appreciate it..Iv got another one coming out soon..gonna be going back in to check them/new fluids. And that sounds like a good setup for oil..I’ll have to try that out sometime!

Ran really well. I figure with the little thicker 200k in the front/rear, will hopefully keep the lifted tire from ballooning as bad and ripping. Also would rather it slide in turns opposed to rolling so I don’t have to walk over and flip it lol. Prob not the best for handling of running on a track or something but for general bashing, works pretty well with the 80k shock fluid too, much less chassis slap on landings

Thanks I appreciate it

If you finish the video I have those gears off the shafts on the center differential. Thanks for your expert advice on what differential fluid to run. If it was better to run solid gearing there would be no need for differentials, they work in the vehicles favor for the best traction in an out of corners. If everything is locked out the vehicle will not corner as well, causing it to pull out of the corner your trying to make. Mud trucks an off road trucks are when lockers are installed to lock the differentials for traction, not for cornering capabilities. If your drag racing it in a straight line all the time then I’d agree with you. But otherwise I can’t agree.

@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 thanks for the sarcastic comment, I could have left one on your vid easily. I left some thoughts on your vid and options that people could take or leave. I never said you must do this or that or your a idiot. If what you did works for you than good job 👏. I do have alot of experience offloading in real Rigs so thought I would share some ideas NOT demands✌

It was not sarcasm, just life facts

Thanks!

How does it run? Is that what you would recommend?

@@Wuzzzzup87 runs great for me. I know a lot of the 8s Arrma rigs like 500k / 20m / 500k.

@@peighday I'll give it a shot, replacing the front bulkhead as we speak. As far as the silicone ear plug, you just jam it in there and put it back together?

@@Wuzzzzup87 yeah that’s pretty much it. You want to make sure to pack it down good in there. I use a small screw driver to push it down in the corners. Just make sure all the gears are covered.

Never! Lol

@@coolhawk2003 😊

50 is thicker, an the center diff gets basically locked out with the 20 million weight that goes in them.

The diffs should be nearly full.

I put a link in the description, click on that an it will send you there to buy it. Enjoy

Welcome, Glad you like the video. So no real tips or tricks on your fix, but that’s an easy fix for you, you’ll be back in action in no time, as long as you keep the same gear ratios, just take off that black cover in front of the motor an then get the pinion gear off there’s a little Allen screw holding that on. Slip that gear off an then take that gray cover off. An your spur on the shaft will pull out for you to change that. Now if you haven’t got in there yet, you may have just a loose pinion gear, the set screw comes loose an then there’s no power to the truck, the gear just spins on the shaft, I use red lock tight back on the Allen screw an I put the screw back in an snug it up good. But maybe you’ve already seen that your gears are stripped out. Anyway hope this helps.

Also use the red lock tight at your own risk, this will make it very hard to get that Allen screw out later on. Blue is recommended

@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 ok great, thanks for the advice 👌

I feel you’ll be ok for a little while..but should probably be done within a year..they had some in there witch is better then nothing..I’m gonna also be doing a video going back into all those diffs to inspect the amounts I put in..soon hopefully.

@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 Excellent. Thanks for the vid and info 👍

Only if it’s damaged in someway, or the truck is older, my truck is only a year or so old an they all looked good in mine to reuse. I’d say if you got leaks now, they are bad. Or if the truck has higher hours on, just replace them also.

From what I've seen, "new to xmaxx" but a slash pro. Looks to me like the diff cover is the same. The 10th scale has different side bearings so they are basically the same but put the ring gear on the proper side. From this video, it looks to me like the front and rear are the same. Bearings look the same. The aluminum HR covers Ive looked up just list as cover not front or rear. Seems like parts are the same in both ends.

@@shawng7902 I got my answer from another youtuber and yes the metal housing on the center diff works on the front and rear diff too!

Yes, goes great now. Not sure what that clicking was, but it’s gone anyway

Wow we got a modern day genius….it’s incredible how some people are…you just had to comment on this..well I must not know what I’m doing.. an how am I working on things in life not knowing this information you’ve made me discover? I cannot believe Iv been able to restore boats an wheelers an dirtbikes…rebuilding the engines completely an building an balancing the cranks in some of them. I’m just surprised nasa hasn’t contacted you to work for them. Please keep up your brilliance in life for others to enjoy. Also since your getting critical…it’s engines are gas powered…not engines or gas powered. Thanks again Winner 👍🏻