You can change those values by flipping the the switch on the control board to write. Then once done writing the new values, flip it back. ***(caution)*** changing values to something outside of the scope of the machine could potentially break it!
I tried to adjust those setting after flipping that switch and was still unable to make it write to the machine. Is that something you have done recently?
If I had to guess, if say someone that doesn't understand math just added the 300mm/s of the one axis and the 100mm/s of the other to get the 400mm/s rating - even though it's actually only just over 316mm/s actual travel distance if both axes are traveling at max speed.
I keep hoping someone will do one of these tests and include trying to cut through flooring laminate given how useful, cheap, readily available everywhere, strong and dimensionally consistent of a material it is(all those machines,grinders, jigs,saws and what not that you see all over youtube can all be made using laminate rather than alu and plywood, and in most cases better...)
A lot of flooring laminate is Vinyl or contains mystery materials that could be really harmful to laser cut. Best not to risk it unless you can get a full MSDS from the manufacturer.
@@Stevieboy7 Laminate is hard HDF(wood) with a phenolic backing and a wear surface that is composed of minerals of some sort held together with phenolic or some other hard binder. Laminate and pvc/vinyl click-tiles/planks is not the same thing..
There is all kinds of chemicals and petroleum products used for abrasion resistance, things similar to Teflon and Kevlar and the fumes are SUPER bad for you. I would advise only engraving/cutting these materials if you are using a smoke proof enclosure and have air filtration and fume extraction to the outside. There are also air testers for job site working conditions you can buy or rent. I would recommend at bear minimum to rent one and test while cutting to see what pops up and validate the effectiveness of your extraction. This stuff is bad news to breath in. And a lot of these really bad ones don’t even have a detectable odor or anything that you can differentiate between regular smoke. It’s not like the bad stuff will glow green and have little biohazard ☣️ shaped snowflakes ❄️ fluttering about 😂😂😂 I know it sounds alarmist, but I personally knew people who have died from things like this and every single one of them said some version oh “I wish I could go back and smack my younger self and wake up. It only takes a tiny bit of time and saves your life and would give you back so many years of quality time. It’s not worth skipping the safety part. “
Thank you. Yeah for some it's not really the best option. That is why I try to break it down for everyone so they can figure out what works best for them.
How well could this module cut hard woods such as cherry wood? I already have the 20w module which does make some shallow cuts at full power and lower speed, but doesn't seem to cut all the way through over multiple passes. In terms of metal engraving, how would you compare this module to the ir module? With higher power will it give you a darker engraving than the 20w module despite the fact that it still isnt infrared?
Yeah. I figured that one out since I have a grid on Etsy for the extension and someone let me know they were having that issue and didn't know why. It took me a little bit to figure that out.
@@dijimeistro From the years of 3D printing I have done I have always heard that you shouldn't move them manually when plugged in because it could cause a spike in voltage but I have moved them around many time without issue.
Did you have any issues with the laser operating correct in light burn? I did a test with it, that my previous 20W did well on. Without changing any of the settings, I tried the 40W. The 40W made the cutout compact. Any suggestions, as to what could be the issue?
It's hard to tell. I was able to swap the 2 out without any issue at all. I would probably check out the xTool Facebook group to see if anyone else ran into a similar issue.
Hello 👋 I have been using the xtool 40 w for about the 7 months you also have. I clean my laser and lens every job + 2 times now swapped out the lens. However, I have noticed a steady drop in efficiency. It's now taking the settings as my 10 w to cut 3mm bassword, and even at 100% power, it doesn't get hot as the head used to. Is that something you have experienced? Thank you in advance. (btw I'm your loyal etsy xtool buyer)
Hello Andrea. Of course I know who you are. To be honest since I go through so many machines your are most definitely using one machine for longer periods then I do. I know there there is a working life of a diode laser but I can't image that you have reached it yet in 7 months. I believe that xTool have a Warranty period for up to 12 months on some of the major "no wearable" parts so it might be worth reaching out if you laser isn't performing up to where it should be.
Learning so much from watching your video's great stuff, do you know of a cheapish pair of safety glasses for the xTool infra red laser module 1064nm . I've got the xTool D1 20W pro two in one kit. Not sure if the glasses that came with the machine covers both lasers? Any help or advice would be appreciated👍
Thank you. To be honest I’m not sure. The IR laser is at a different wavelength so I don’t know what glasses came with it but I wouldn’t think a one glasses fits all solution wouldn’t necessarily work. I would search the XTool Facebook group or Amazon for glasses for the particular wavelength of the laser to find the proper safety glasses. I don’t have the IR module but I do have a fiber laser which works at a different wavelength and the glasses that came with it are different.
I use mm in all 3D printing, laser engraving, 3D modeling, CNC etc since it’s far easier to understand and get precise measurements. 300mm is not actually 12 inches, it’s 11.811 inches. 12 inches is 304.8mm :)
Also the fiber lasers with fixed lens and laser are much better for Stainless steel and can go extremely fast. FYI You can get a laser that is a Co2 laser that is air cooled. You really need to do more research on the laser systems. A Co2 laser runs at a different frequency as do the Mopar and fiber lasers do. Co2 lasers are for specific applications and you cant' compare a Co2 vs diode lasers as they work and cut differently. There is another type of laser that is YAG and its different than the other 2 and is used for electronics industry. I ran one for 4 years at a company for doing micro electronics.
Note to anyone thinking of purchasing - the 40w module and the extension are not YET compatible. The 40w requires a different power cable and they haven't made one long enough for the extension yet and will not be available for several weeks. They don't tell you this, so I am sharing here.
Well tjat sucks..i have the original 10w xtool that came with the rotary, and i wanted to upgrade but since i have to buy the whole kit nit just the laser itself which is alot more...
Like I said I haven't tried it but don't see any reason it wouldn't work if you are able to add the holes for the limit switches and find a new little sensor wire.
@@BusterBeagle3D thats not true at all! There are multiple videos on how to cut clear acrylic with diode lasers on youtube. It requires special preperation of the acrylic, but it is 100% doable.
@@daytrace4635 You can engrave on clear acrylics as long as it's coated with something. You are essentially burning the coating on the surface. The beam would otherwise just pass through the clear material.
Hello. Not sure what your issues with Lightburn and this machine are but it might be a good idea to check out my other videos about the D1 Pro with Lightburn that might help clear up any issues you are running into. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_7R0j_XQqOg.html
Thanks Chad! I actually watched your video this morning, it was awesome! I really like how you are using a compressor for the air assist. That is something I may need to try out in the future. It really seemed to help with the cutting and charring.
Again that depends on your needs. If you want to do detail engraving then the 40 spot might be too large. If you wanted to do a lot of cutting it's great but you will get that better detail with the lower power modules.
Thanks for the vid. Always hard to get detailed informations directly from overseas. How about the cooling fans? Are those temperature controlled? Or just running full speed as soon as the laser fires?
On the older D1 machines I believe the fans were full blast all of the time. On the D1 Pro they just turn on when the laser is firing and it's pretty much an all or nothing situations I think.
I have a 40w kit coming in to upgrade my d1 pro. My question is I also have a 10w d1 can I convert the d1 using the parts that comes off the pro and make the d1 a d1 pro
You would have to figure out a way to install the Pro limit switches and limit switch tabs to the old D1 frame which honestly doesn't seem that hard. Only other thing you would need is the wire that connects the limit switch to the gantry (that little 2 wire port) as well as 2 little spacers that sit behind the limit sensor on the Y axis roller frame and you should be good to go.
We have found that whether it’s Yeti’s or wood work, anything over 4000 mm/min causes some slop in the 20 w. This was a passing thought to upgrade for faster cutting, but now I think I’m content until they do a 40w frame which I’m sure will be $2000+ with larger motors and accommodate faster speeds.
You can cut through very thin stainless steel so it's definitely more then just marking it. However if your main focus is engraving on metal you may want to look into a fiber laser, they are way faster and do great with metal.
Speeds are limited to the gantry size and weight. Also the weight is important to the motors. Those steppers are 3d printer types Nema 17's If you beefed up the gantry and added larger motors you would be able to go much faster. Going faster doesn't mean anything better because there is a limit to speed and optical power.
Only way to know for sure would be a power speed test on a scrap piece you have. Even if I had the same wood type, thickness, layer power ,etc, there are many factors that can affect the cutting. Best way to know for sure is a test.
