xTool F1 Brass Coin Engraving Tutorial | xTool Creative Space 

Thank you very much! That was very kind and gracious of you. Happy to help and I am always appreciative of the support.

Fiber lasers are great. This is a nice little stepping stone for a fiber laser.

I agree with you on a two want a fiber laser. I have a CO2 for Xtool the P2. I have the F1. I have a way and a 14-watt diode laser. The only thing really missing is fiber laser. However, a MOPA fiber laser is pretty expensive lol. 60w is like $4,400 depending where you get it.. but it's my next one lol.

Thanks. Don't worry, just about 2 and a half years ago I had never used a laser either. You'll get it!

Thank you. It's up now if you would like to check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kqnkyweErJM.html

Many thanks!

Congrats. Hope you like it!

Happy to help!

Thank you so much for the Super Thanks. That was very nice of you. I'm glad I could help!

Have you tried silver?

Thank you so much! I really appreciate it! Glad you liked it.

Glad it was helpful!

Same bro

Just got it, and it's awesome!👌

Just got mine it's great, I use lightburn with my other lasers but with this one I used their software and it sucks, very slow software when using lightburn with the f1 there is no framing like creative space has

Thanks. I do have the slide extension so maybe I’ll give that a try some day.

@@BusterBeagle3D I mean if you could offset the coin so it kind of a zigzag you could fit more on the plate too. I don't know just spitballing lol.

Sounds great. Would love to know how it turns out.

Thank you! Glad you liked it.

It all about dot duration and power. The longer the dot stays is one spot and the power is high the mark will be black. By increasing the speed and lowering the power I'm essentially removing the dark lines which is why it looks like it's turning white. It's also just what happens to the surface at those speeds and power. Some marks can be light and some can be dark. That's why it's important to run tests to see what configuration gives you what result.

Thank you!

Thank you. Like I said it could all probably be set to do it all at once but this was really to explain the whole process.

No worries. Good luck!

Thank you. Lots of trial and error but mostly trial :)

Thank you! Appreciate it!

You should be able to achieve the same effect but the settings will be different as the S1 can't move at the same speeds since the whole laser moves since it's not a galvo laser. I don't know the settings off of the top of my head but you should be able to figure it out with some power and speed tests.

Thank you. It is specific to metal on the machine and it’s a technique I came up with through some good ole fashioned trial and error.

@@BusterBeagle3D Wow that was awesome then. THanks for getting back with me

I think the longest pass was about 5 minutes.

Thanks for the sub!

This would be true of a fiber laser for sure. I have plans to test that soon on a 30W fiber laser I have on the way but again these with this machine are just for looks.

You could probably sand it off but it's not going to simply wipe off.

You should be able to. Just right click on the image in Lightburn and choose adjust image. Then play with the Contrast, Brightness, and Gamma settings to achieve essentially the same effect.

When talking about wiping it clean I'm essentially doing a white pass over the whole thing. I believe it was a dot duration of 200 and power of 80. This will clean up the coin by removing any dark spots but might take a few passes. It will not put the brass back to it original shine however. To do that you could use a brass brush on a Dremel tool or something to that affect to polish it back to the original shine.

@@BusterBeagle3D thank you!

@@BusterBeagle3D My result was great for the brass shell casings. Thank you so much for your help!

Thank you so much for the support! I have played a little bit with the image on stainless steel that you can see on my review of the machine around the 13 minute mark. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kqnkyweErJM.html However it still needed to be dialed in but what I would suggest is running some power/speed test in Creative Space to see what gives you light or dark marks on stainless steel. Then for something like the coin I would first lay down a layer of white that encompassed the whole image and then a layer of black for the image over that. One the brash I was really trying to blend multiple colors but since stainless is different and shinny it might take a little bit different approach. Hope this helps and that again for the support!

It seems pretty durable. It's not a deep mark into the surface but I can't wipe it off either.

Thank you! Cheers!

I did this all from the original

There is a link in the description to those coins. amzn.to/3PKVQwo

@@BusterBeagle3Dyour amazing thank you!

Try sanding with a sanding sponge. They work great at getting the coins back to original. Something like this: amzn.to/4aVT5Ar

I don't have that machine but my guess is the process might be very similar.

I you really want to get into coins and make real 3D engravings in them I would suggest looking into fiber lasers. It may take a while but the effect and finished product looks amazing.

It can make colors in stainless steel mostly and takes some practice but it is possible.

tante grazie@@BusterBeagle3D

Essentially if you place all of the different jobs that I ran in different layers you could run the whole job at the same time. I never set it up like that but there is not reason why you couldn't.

@@BusterBeagle3D thanks, i have try with steel hearts but I think the settings for "white" are slightly different I'm not sure how to correct them

You can't use an STL directly with xTool Creative Space. You would have to figure out a different method to render the stl so you can use it as an image. Also this type of machine will not be able to actually engrave depth into the surface. For that you would need a more powerful Fiber Laser .

Hello. Yes I left it at 550 the entire time. It's super detailed and looks even better in person.

@@BusterBeagle3D do you know if the Xtool mobile app is the same as working with a computer , I’ve looked on the website to find out but no luck

You're welcome!

Thanks!

I haven't tested it on silver but my guess is it would be similar. Also thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate it.

@@BusterBeagle3D Your welcome :-) You videos help a lot. Can you do it may? I know a lot of people would be interested in it.

I just get black -.-@@BusterBeagle3D

The laser wavelengths and power are the same so you should be able to. The speeds will be different since one is a galvo laser and one is not so the S1 will be slower.

No it is not. You would need a fiber laser. The higher the wattage the better for 3D engraving.

@@BusterBeagle3D hi thank you then what is the cheapest model for amateur desktop setup that you recommend?

Essentially you can use a full wipe of the white pass and it will eventually clean the coin off after enough passes. I don't remember the settings off the top of my head but it would be the same as the first or last pass in the video.

Thank you! Cheers!

It should. Again these are superficial marks but it should work.

The IR laser is pretty low power so this is really just marking the surface on the metal.

@@BusterBeagle3D thank you.

I haven’t set this up all in one go yet but I believe you are looking at about 4-5 minutes per layer.

@@BusterBeagle3D that’s really quick for that level of detail. Thanks dude!

It should. As long as you are using an IR laser the method would be the same.

@BusterBeagle3D I have the P2 laser would this technique work with a CO2 laser?

Just like with any metal...different speeds and different powers give you different results. That's why it's so important to run power/speed tests on new materials so you understand what power/speed does what.

Got them here: amzn.to/3PKVQwo

@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you

I haven't tried that one yet but they do have some similarities from what I have read.

Yes it can work on leather.

Do you have any settings that you can share for Hydbond leatherette to do an image like this and cut it out?@@BusterBeagle3D

Thanks for mentioning that. I have the link in the description but never saw the name. Love your white tile method btw, have used it many times.

@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you

Thanks!

While I don't commission jobs at this time I would suggest joining some of the laser engraving Facebook groups where I have no doubt you can find someone who is willing to some jobs for you.

It wasn't paywalled when I made it. It was only after filming but decided to show the process anyway.

The new lions head they are advertising is with the F1 Ultra. That is their new Fiber laser that can make things like that coin. Not this F1 with a much less powerful IR laser.

Different machine, different use case. I can't put my CO2 machine in my luggage and take it to craft fairs. It's not cheap but still for what it does it's impressive.

Don't think they have even been accused of being cheap ;)

You realize that is incredibly cheap for what it does & that if you start a business with it you can write it off, right? It is a tool purchase. Could pay for itself. With the smoke purifier, you can bring this thing anywhere. Money all day, on the spot, engraving anything for people.

@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 We use this and a fiber laser to make and engrave anything. That's laser-able. The F1 is great for small markings and paired with a Fiber you can make almost anything.

​@@thegiftdesigners Do you consider mopa to be a fiber laser?

@@GarlandFarms Yes, most times. Mopa is a system of function that some fiber lasers can have. Most commonly JPT laser sources. I classify lasers into these main categories Gantry or Galvo then CO2, Fiber, UV. Do you own a laser or thinking about getting on?

This is a 2W IR laser. In no world is this as powerful as a 60W fiber. Just showing what you can do with what you have if you bought one of these machines.