I loved it, no music intro, no dogs barking in the background, just straight info from a guy who knows how to do it. Nice job. I’m picking up a new 25 Yahama Tuesday and never had a four stroke before. Thanks neighbor!
Why can't everyone make videos like this? There's no 5 minute intro and talking, dude gets straight to the point in less than 30 seconds..no funky music, dogs, camera bouncing around making noise etc... dudes legit oldschool!
Age can’t proof your experience. Your clear instruction tells your are experienced. You are well respected. The best oil change clip I have seen so far! Salute!
thanks for the video, always had service department take care of it for me and just wanted some (inside tips) for changing the oil out, i appreciate the video...
Great video! I've wondered how messy owning a four-stroke would be--I'm relieved to see it's not bad at all. And, as others have said, GREAT tip on pre-filling the oil filter. I would not have thought to do that on a horizontally-mounted filter so again, THANK YOU!
Good video. Never seen anyone pre-fill an oil filter before but I like the idea. Yamaha is adamant on their site about using oil made for marine engines. I’m a Mobil One guy myself. Thanks for posting!
Great video! I like the proper old-school mechanic approach. And torque specs are good guidelines, but I prefer knowing the 4 steps of the right way: It spins, it cinches, it stops, it breaks. Your goal is always the third one, never the fourth. :)
Good video for the procedure, except the wrong oil is is being used. Outboards require FC-W certified motor oil. Automotive oil does not have the additive package needed for outboard service. Too high RPMs and high moisture for outboard service. Automotive engines only turn 2000-3000 RPMs cruising and most outboards are turning 5500-6000 RPMs all day long. Best to follow the owners manual for oil recommendations (brand does not matter, but the service classification does).
Nice video. I watched the Yamaha factory video on a 115 hp, and they said the correct oil level is midway in the thatch marks. Could be engine specific, I don't know, as yours is a 25hp. My personal preference has always been it's better to be a little low than high. I don't like gasket oil leaks, and for the past 20 years, none of my engines have leaks. Maybe superstitious on my part. I really liked your tip on swirling the oil in the filter before installation!
Bob mortensen that's interesting, yes I've always been one to have it at the top of the mark But I wait till the engine is completely cold, say like the next day to check it
Good informative video, the only thing i see you doing wrong is when your tightening without the torque wrench your suppose to say Click Click then you know its torqued to spec lol 👍
Useful vid! Thanks! (try one of those cheap rubber band wrenches from harbor freight... makes short work of getting that oil filter off. We're kindred spirits... I've got the exact same light blue towel cut up into little rags!
Can you tell me what size prop comes standard on F25? I see you put a performance prop on, what size is that and are you pleased with the increased performance if any?
Thanks for the video. I have a 99 evinrude 4 stroke. The oil drain plug was stripped. Tried to find replacement but no luck, found one at the auto parts store that is correct size and thread pitch is a bit longer than the original, any issues with using a longer drain plug?
Is that a little RPM gauge on the tiller? I've been looking for a good one (the reviews on the amazon units are really bad) - is there one you can recommend? Thanks!
It's 10 1/2" x 11 pitch Solas Stainless 3 blade. Turn 6000 wide open which is the Yamaha recommendation. It's more of a load prop since I carry a lot of weight most of the time. I usually run between 5000 - 5500 max.
I think changing the washer each time is a good idea, this is water and often salt water, so why take any chances? But, the other option is to simply not remove the plug, just suck out the old oil with a pump. Yes, you do leave a bit more, but if you are changing your oil with regularity, I contend it isn't significant, you can tell by the way, by the color of 99 percent of oils out there. Forget this or that amount of hours, or miles; when the oil looks dirty, change it. When it looks like honey, it is good. Same with cars, you get a car, or boat engine from some guy who never changed it, it will get dirty--REAL fast after you change it. I don't care how often you need to change it, when it goes from honey to black, change it. You will see the interval get longer and longer.
If you're just sucking it out (which, BTW, is what marina's do, with inboards, when you're not there to observe) leaves ANY metallic particles, from manufacturing "swarf" or plain wear, IN that small amount of oil you're not sucking out. Why? Because they're the HEAVY, and will not stay in circulation, as will the black, carbon particles you see when you suck out your "black" oil. So you're leaving any metallic/ABRASIVE particles IN your engine, to circulate with your new oil. Personally, I believe this is why SO many inboard/outboards have been "re-powered," yet my 1972 Mercruiser 165 I/O is chugging along, never having been opened for any engine work. Shortcuts are not always short.
@@tootallsvlog103 As per the manual it calls for a FC-W which is for marine engines. Mobile 1 Synthetic is not FC-W rated marine oil, its meant for automobiles. I think Amsoil Marine meets is a FC-W rated oil, if you are set on using synthetics. Yamalube also makes a synthetic for outboards. Clearly, you've never had a problem since using Mobile 1 synthetic so I'm not sure if it really matters at the end of the day...it matters even less if you are out of factory warranty on your outboard. I stick with the base stock Yamalube since I live in Florida and it's easy to source locally on the shelves. Thanks for the video, it is helpful.