Thank you for your extremely detailed video. I too have an A-1000. I bought it new in 1985. 15 years ago it stopped working. I tried to turn it on one day and it just didn't turn on so I put the stereo away. A friend suggested that I have a tech look at it so I took it in three weeks ago. I sold my Denon DP45 TT in 1989 and after listening to a buddy's TT several years ago I started regretting selling mine. I won a Denon DP62L on ebay the night I took my amp to the tech. The TT arrived within a week so the fuse was lit! I went back to see the progress on the A-1000 and it hadn't been looked at yet. The tech gave me a Yamaha CR 840 to borrow while he worked on my amp! Anyway I'm considering purchasing one of the A-000's. Watching your video has convinced me I will go with the 1100, 2100 or 3000 depending on what I can negotiate price wise. Several questions I have for you are: how does the A-1100 to A-S3000 compare to the A-1000? The tech is about 50/50 on fixing my A-1000 at this time but I am interested in your opinion. I have Infinity RS 4b speakers. I also have a dbx 3bx and a ADC 315SS Eq/Spectrum Analyzer. After watching your video it seems best to keep the tone controls neutral. What's your opinion regarding adding those components into the system? Would that be a way to introduce some tone options while still bypassing within the amp? Does adding the extra components detract in anyway? Thanks!
Recommended retail price in Japan for the 3000 is 470,000 JPY which at current FX rates is about $4,250. This is much closer to your assessed fair value price for the build.
Yamaha A-S2000 does support to turn off op-amp ( bass & treble ), in neutral position it makes click like A-S2100 and others. In fact A-S2000 do have 3 separate amps: 1. Flat pass through 2. Bass 3. Treble. Notice that A-S2100 have in XLR -6db filters that was not presented in A-S2000, that may be useful when playing from Oppo where XLR output is 5v and yamahaha input is 4,5v. You can use on cable filters but here you have integrated. In sound difference between A-S2000 and A-S2100 is noticeable less noise on volume above "10" in 2100, bass correction is giving deeper and more powerfull bass sounds. Generally in 2100 sound is better including upgraded MM/MC amp in 2100. Generally in sound difference between A-S2000 an A-S2100 is very marginal except noise an bass control knob. Before you replace any of Yamaha A-Sxxxxx amp tip newer replace speakers as they always change sound mooch more than any amp.
I'm somewhat baffled myself as to why the OP said that... The A-S1000 & A-S2000 acts the same as all the other amps in the series - with tone controls in neutral, all "extra" circuitry are switched out and I know there are no op amps in the direct-mode signal path. My problem though is that I just cannot stand meters on an integrated amp, makes it look like the cheap "Tandy" products from the 1970s. When my A-S2000 breaks down one day I'm going back to KT88 tube-based amplification.
it was an enrichment a clear and honest story that makes the choice much easier. I now go for the 1100 instead of 2100. I am still considering the Denon pma1600 or Denon pma2500. thanks again
I went with the 1100 as well. There may not be quite as much shielding as the 2100 and the 3000. However that extra shielding is primarily designed for the XLR inputs and if you don't have need of XLR like myself it's extra money that doesn't need to be spent
Thanks! This is a must watch video for any audiophile consider the Yamaha AS series of amplifiers (like myself). It would be great if you do a similar video for the latest series (R-N2000A, AS2200, and AS3200). I was agonising between the R-N2000A and AS2200 but your video helped me go with the AS2200 as I value the headphone amp section and XLR balance input for only a little bit more money (assuming . Still, all the other functions of the R-N2000A like loudness control and YPAO are really enticing. Handy to have DAC, streamer, and HDMI input as well as that can be my main media system to compliment my TV. Subbed :)
I appreciate your passion for quality audio and willingness to explain things! Hats off! Thumbs up! Subscribed, hoping to view more of your excellent videos.
I bought a UK AS1100 amp delighted with the product superb build quality and outstanding clear crisp neutral sound very pleased very good value for money cant fault it a really good investment nice one Yamaha
I have found something informative in all your videos thank you and keep them coming. May buy a 2100 this summer, then I can compare it with 2000 and those cheap op amps and other inexpensive parts in the signal path.
Yes....well said, you really get the feeling that these OP amps are just so bad and how dare the RD department at Yamaha with 1000 upon 1000 of testing and research hours and all those people with their many many years of studying to get there education to put a OP amps in the signal path. Same on them! (Yes if you are wondering, I'm being sarcastic 'stereopolice')
One should never run out of coffee or op amps. You can get a pack of 10 op amps from Amazon for $6 right now; even cheaper in bulk on eBay. I even put one or two op amps in my coffee sometimes for extra boldness.
appreciate you done here,the passion and time you spent..if you can,and if you would compare the new release version,the A S-1200 for the A S-1100...whether to get this a s -1100 or the a s-1200 im still confuse what to get between the old or the new one.
I bought an open box A-S2100 in black due to the excellent reviews and my lifelong impressions of Yamaha quality. I could not be happier with this amp, I may fiddle with speakers and interconnects down the road, but the Yamaha has found a permanent home. I paid $2400 for this amp, the quality is just amazing for the price paid and I run it with zero tone controls, it just doesn't need them. A "Natural Sound" indeed !
I think the 2100 doesn't get enough credit in this video. Headphone amp aside, the big difference to the 1100 is that the 2100 offers dual mono, even unbalanced inputs get split and handled separately resulting in an even lower noise floor and thus a deeper and wider soundstage. The difference to the 3000 apart from the points mentioned in the video are (according to Yamaha) shorter signal paths, better wires, better soldering points, better internal shielding to get the noise floor down even further.
I agree that the as1100 and 2100 are the best buy. I picked up an as2000 on sale last year, I must say I really enjoy those cheap op amps. I also have an a1000 and several other older yamaha integrated amps and receivers, they all have a unique sound some good some not so good.
Nice video! I have been using Yamaha amplifiers since 2018. I started with A-S1100, then A-S2100 and now I have A-S3000. Each of these amplifiers is worth the price. I will say that the stage at A-S3000 is the widest and deepest.
That's interesting, awesome video thanks! I've got an A-S500 that I am looking to upgrade. I mentioned in another video to get the A-S500 to sound like I want, I have to use the loudness. The reason for this is if I don't I lose low end and defition at low volumes, and at higher listening levels the sound is too harsh and bright. I appreciate I am only using $1000 speakers, and a $200 DAC, but I think at the moment the amplifier is probably the thing that needs to be upgraded. Add to that that the amp introduces some distortion especially in the low end above about 30-40% volume and sounds more harsh the louder it gets. The setup does sound nice, I mean acoustic and easy listening still sounds really good. But if you want something more upbeat it can start to lose it. Certain styles like rock or certain digital music can sound harsh. It really needs the right songs and music to be played, I can't enjoy everything on it. I've seen an a-s1000 used for £450, I was tempted, but do you think the a-s1100 for £1100 new (more than twice the cost) will be worth it? Another thing is I like to emphasise some of the low end. Now this might be needed because of the amp I am not sure, but I have bass tone control always on 1/3rd with the current amp. So I am thinking if I want that anyway on the A-S1100 than the OP amp in use on the A-S1000 doesn't really matter, although I understand there might be some cases where I may want to see what it sounds like by bypassing it. Either way I think the 1000 vs 500 should be an upgrade? As long as it doesn't sound harsh or not full enough at low volume without the loudness control I am used to. Thanks!
The fully balanced circuits in the 2100 and 3000 lower the noise floor by 3dB (everything else being equal). The balanced XLR inputs reject noise from outside interference better than unbalanced lines
An amazing journey through these amps - thank you for focusing your "microscope" on these various models - fantastic insight, so educational - - and yes, in answer to your question - - VERY interesting.
Also I'd be interested to know why you think OP amps are so evil when they are used in so much audio equipment. If you could sit them in a neutral position instead of them switching off, how different really would it sound to the average listener?
Power supplies on the A-S2100 and A-S1100 are somewhat different. Caps in the 2100 spec out at 22'000µF per cap x 4 vs. 18'000µF per cap x 4 for the 1100. The 2100 has 1 balanced input. Better headphone amp with trim sections. An internal metal brace. The ability to to switch between MM/MC phono on the front. Are those differences worth $1000? Probably not. $500, maybe.
Wow this is an amazing video! I've searched everywhere and haven't been able to find a detailed explanation like this talking about what the difference are. So between the 1200/2200/3200 basically still the best three right? I'm going to order the 1200 since I don't need balanced inputs.
Thank you very much for this information. I'm researching the differense between the 2100 and the 1100, debating wether or not the 2100 is worth 500$ more. You earned a new sub because of the hard work and knowledge you put into this video. Merry christmas & happy new year.
@@stereopolice Since i never use Headphones, i find it hard to validate any reason to pay 500$ more for extra good headphone connector. And i'm not even sure the -3dB signal distortion is worth the 500$.
I understand that you are not a fan of op amps, well that is fine, but do not call them cheap, the OP275 used in the tone control is a $4.5 component on ebay, and I say on ebay because that is were you got your power transistor prices. I work in electronics, I am a designer and know in bulk the prices go down a lot, for the OP275 it will be about $0.80 if you buy 1k, same goes for power transistors....The price for the BA1521 op amp is about $3.00 if you buy 1 so a big difference from what you call a cheap 0,10 component...those op amps are special designed components, download a data sheet and look at the specifications....The big difference between the 1100 and the 2100 is that the design is balanced across the whole design (line amp) and the 1100 is not. And believe me the 2100 is the best buy and is the better sounding amp.
I finally got my 2100, music never sounded so good. Punching myself in the balls for every owning a class D amp, after hearing the warmth the 2100 brings. Streamer via xlr inputs is amazing.
thanks for the time and effort on your research design and complexity of these amps . You helped me in my decision in what model is the Best Buy for the price. Excellent work.
It takes 2 tiny wires and 10 minutes of time to disolder 6 resistors an 2 caps to override those evil opamps in a-s1000/2000 and make them fully discrete! And difference between 1x00 and 2x00 not only in xlr inputs, they have higher class/quality parts(caps, resistors) all over the amp.
Yes, excellent stuff there. Over my head but extremely useful. I am looking at those amps and needed some guidance. I was looking at used amps like these against Luxman and Accuphase for longterm enjoyment. Maybe unravel those for us next.
Floating balanced technology reminds me of Yamaha ZDR tech in a way. I happen to have the M50 that used that rule as well as HCA MX-1, incredible sound on both played back on my NS-1000M speakers. Very nice detailed review btw.
Hey buddy, loved your video, very in-depth. I have a Question to you, I live in Argentina, and here prices are all over the place, sometimes yo get something similar to the scale in the US, sometimes you get nothing alike. The thing is I have the opportunity to buy an AS1000, I know you don't like that, but I own a Marantz PM6006 and I'm trying to upgrade. The thing is I can get a 1000 for about 1200 us dollars, but the cheapest AS2100 I can find is about 4000us dollars, I can't find an AS1100. Do you think I'm going to be OK with de AS1000 over the Marantz (not only power but build quality, true tone bypass and so on) or I'm better looking other brands? Thanks in advance.
This is perhaps the most helpful of any audio related videos I've ever seen on RU-vid. I currently own a A-S2000 and love how it sounds but have read how much better the A-S2100 sounds. My dilemma was, was it worth spending thousands more for maybe a marginal increase in performance? After watching this video, I can clearly see the difference between the two generations of amplifiers and how much better built and designed the 1100/2100/3000 is. It's also made me realize I really don't need the balanced inputs or the upgraded headphone amp as I would never use either. I can get the same level of performance for $1,000.00 less! Thank you so much for this info. You have a new subscriber to your channel!!
You can upgrade the tone control opamp of the AS2000 using Burson opamp (v5). I upgraded mine, and it sound almost identical to the AS2100. I would not say upgrading the op amp will solve all of your problem, but at least it give you an easy upgrade path instead of buying a brand new amp. The second thing you can upgrade is the fuse. I upgraded mine, and it increases the sound of the AS2000 quite dramatically. The total cost of the new opamps and the fuse is under $350 (still way cheaper than buying a brand new AS2100) So, try both if you feel like not buying a new amp
Very well done and informative. Thanks for all your efforts. I was seriously looking at the A-S3000 Vs the Luxman L-509X until this indepth breakdown? Luxman or Yamaha integrated amps. Which is closer to the mark?
Very late answer, but do not hesitate, go Luxman, at least its value on seocnd hand market will be far better . .not speaking about build quality, and of course sound refinment.
I was just about to buy a mint Yahama A-S2000, well after watching this video that deal is toast, thanks so much!!! , I'm going to get a A-S2100... What a amazing video, 👍
this is one mans opinion...if you are buying a rig with tone controls isn't the plan to use them ? I bet you could not hear the difference between A-S2000 and the A-S2100. I have enjoyed your long reviews and insights, thanks
Do you know if the phono stage circuit schematics are identical for the A-S1100 and A-S2100? I’m asking because on the Yamaha website they show pictures of the phono stage boards for both and they are different. Also, the specs are slightly different on the Yamaha website as well. I could see this being an error on Yamaha’s part when creating the layout for the webpage. I emailed Yamaha but I’m not holding my breathe for an answer. I would really like to know for sure since I plan to purchase one of these amps and my primary source is vinyl. Any input you have in the matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the excellent content!
HI, I have the AS1100, as far as I know the phono input is the same as the AS2100. I think I read that. Anyway the AS1100, comes with a high quality phono. You can check the reviews with Cructhfield, and their is a review on youtube, that someone has his pre amp disconnected, because the phono on the Yamaha amp is better. One or two people mentioned it comes with high phono input, which is unusal in amp. I already had a pre amp before I got my AS1100, and I can't really tell any difference between the built in phono. Also check the Yamaha AS801, the phono on it is suppose to be good as well and this amp is a lot cheaper. So if it's vinyl your mostly interested in, like myself, it's worth checking out.
Interesting....my A-S1000 has a definite click and millisecond sound delay when turning tone controls off flat! I would like to hear a comparison between the 1000/2000 and a 1100 to be sold on upgrading.
Really appreciate your work! No bullshit or buzzwords like in every other review or audio journal, but technical explanation so that I can understand, where the differences really are! You are a unicorn and should use your skill to make more of this type if videos :-) In forums I have read opinions that claim that A-Sxxxx buyers fall for marketing lies and would be better advised to buy an AVR for the same or even less money. It wouldn't be possible to detect a sound difference. Also the senselessness of the N803d receiver was mentioned, because an AVR is cheaper and technically superior. Maybe you'd like to make a video with a technical comparison between the A-S series and a RX-2080 AVR (or similar). Would like to understand where the technical differences lie and why one is better or worse to listen to music. Thank you and enjoy your great setup!
There is no comparison on a technical level. The lesser Yama amps and AVR's have chips and ICs in the signal path, and are not really built to audiophile standards. I've looked at a few schematics. The 1100 / 2100 / 3000 amps are pure audiophile, and they sound it too.
I understand that there are fundamental technical differences. Do these technical differences in practice actually lead to significantly different hearing outcomes? I have seen your DAC comparisons and would find such an presentation or comparison very interesting for AVRs. I would also like to understand why digital chips and ICs sound worse than a classic audiophile setup in the A-S1100. I myself tried a time ago to determine a sound difference between a Denon PMA-500 stereo amplifier and a Denon X1200 AVR connected to Monitor Audio Bronze speakers. I couldn't tell the difference. Possibly this is only due to these cheap devices...
I own the AS- 2000 I love it ! If any wants to sell there old not so good run of the mill amp and up grade Sell it to me 😀 If you do some research a few people have upgraded and have noted the difference between the A’s-2000 and the A’s-2100 is One has meters.... they sound the same 😐 I can’t agree or disagree I haven’t listened to both - but they have herd both and there comments are in a lot of reviews. Interesting to see in this video is the money jump in as 1000 To the A’s 3000 models is a few cheap parts
Great video! It answered all of my questions regarding the differences between the as models. I currently own the as2000 and was thinking about upgrading to 3000, but after watching your video i will pass. Do you think that mos fets sound better than bjt? In what way? Thank you, and best regards!
I own an A-S1000 amplifier and was wondering after watching this video. When I turn the balance / treble dial to the zero position, I hear a relay clicking and when I turn it away again, I again hear a relay clicking. Could it be that it does actually bypass the op-amps? Or what would cause that click?
Hey there, stereopolice. Another great video just in time to help a poor guy like me who happens to be in the market for a new amp. I am new, and I am torn. I've been having my eyes on the A-S801 for some time now, but everyone keeps telling me I should look up separated vintage gears like m4/c4 or m50/c50 and so on. My budget is about $1000 but it seems that I really should move it up a bit. I have four pairs of speakers so far and they are: Klipsch Cornwall I, Frazier Mark V, Yamaha NS-690, and KEF 105.2. Help...
I wish I had the 2100. Speakers are just such a personal taste thing, I wouldn't want to steer you wrong. Of course, if you like horns, the Klipsch Forte III; they are just such a perfect match to the A-S1100. But, there are so many great and affordable speakers out there. Perhaps some others can chime in here ... Once that I heard last week was Sonus Faber Venere 3.0. They sounded incredible to me. Not nearly as dynamic and life-like as horns, however, they were worth every penny in my opinion. Good luck.
What is important to know for you: The 2100 has enough power for most speaker and more important is has a very step slew rate, so even bigger towers should be no issue.
Very nice explanation. Certainly this helps to make a buy decision. Do you think an used A-S1000 for 600$ would be worth it or is it paying a lot of money to listen to those cheap opamps? Thanks!
Hats off to you on what is really an amazing review of these amplifiers. I was really toying with the idea of investing in a 3000 and now I guess my minds made up. It's the 2100 all the way. Thank you so much in what is an incredible break down of these amplifiers. Peace brother🤟
Please don't whether it's lack of respect or appreciation give up. You have a really good knowledge of electronics and it would be ashame if you didn't share that. I'd appreciate and look forward to seeing any new reviews. Peace brother 🤟
It is a great and useful review giving a lot of input also for people as me without a deep electronic knowledge background. It helps to make the buy decision as well. Btw I am really curious how would look like similar comparison between e.g. the winner, the A-S 1100 and an old one, the CA 1100 or CA 2100. Maybe it is worth to do such. I currently have the CA 2100 after refurbishment but consider the upgrade to A-S 1100.
I have the A-S2000. From the manual: When both the BASS and TREBLE controls are set to the 0 position, audio signal bypasses the tone control circuitry. It definitely clicks when you move the tone controls. I always leave it at the 0 flat position.
I bought the Yamaha A-1000 Integrated Amplifier new in 1985. I believe it was Yamaha's flag ship integrated at the time. I also matched it with high end components that included a dbx 3bx Dynamic Range Expander and an ADC Equalizer/Spectrum analyzer. I finally settled on the Infinity RS 4B Speakers. It was a great system, I had many soldiers copy my system while we were stationed in Germany. Fast forward to today. My A-1000 is in the shop hopefully getting fixed. In the mean time after watching this video and doing other research I decided to get the A-S3000. I was hoping to incorporate my dbx and eq. They were plugged into Line 2, both components were reading the music signal and seemed to be functioning normally, however I wasn't getting differences in sound when adjusting the controls on both the dbx and eq. I thought I was going crazy because I couldn't hear any difference when bypassing them and then when adding them in. I tried various connection configurations. Finally, today I called Yamaha in California and spoke with Technical Support. As it turns out, this amp doesn't let its pure signal to be contaminated by components such as eq's and the dbx. At first I was a little disappointed but the amp and my speakers have sounded better than anything I've heard from my old system so I really can't complain. I now appreciate the selfish lengths Yamaha took to ensure you are listening to nothing but the clean power and circuitry of the amp.
Personally I really appreciate seen someone go the extra 20 miles just not to stay short in all the informations that so altruistic you want to provide. Information that certainly (-I'm sure-) is going to help so many people make a smarter decision and undoubted safe some money. Human being like you deserve some sort of noble price. Would you say that it could be possible to put the A S3000 VU meters into the A S1100? Obviously some cutting has to be done to A S1100 face panel. Much health to you and your family. Dios les bendiga a todos
Yamaha is using digital volume controls, looking at schematic for A-S1000, looks like those op-amps (IC404, 405 406 etc) are the output buffers for the volume IC, so may have to be there. The buffer was likely necessary for gain/impedance matching for following circuitry, and I have no doubt if I look at the schematic for the other units, I'll see the same thing. The tone circuit comes next after the buffers, and if you take a closer look, the relay completely bypasses that section (it is discreet by the way). Also, if you look at the block diagram for the digital volume IC, it has internal op-amps, and I believe all these units use the same volume IC's, so yes, you're listening to op-amps with all of them. In any case, the real test is listening, looking at circuits is a disconnect from what your ears will tell you. I would hope the more expensive units do sound better, if anything because of the improved MOSFET output stage.
OK, you are incorrect about the volume control having op amps. Yamaha uses for its volume control the New Japan NJU72321, a custom built ladder type resistor volume control, exclusively for Yamaha, no op amps. The op amps depicted in the volume control block diagram are merely depictions of the tone control op amps connected to the volume control, which can be bypassed, when the tone controls are flat. So, no op amps.
hi, finally chose the Denon pma1600. nice tight sound with controlled bass. well balanced sound now also in the midtones and high tones. Listen Am very disappointed in the yamahaRN803d. my fear was that the higher class would also suffer from this. as a precaution, I opted for a different brand. I listen to the Dali zensor 5 standard speaker and F5 high-end speaker and both sound different but both are perfect for the money. invest better in good amplifier with cheaper speakers than vice versa. My search for perfection comes insight. now a perfect cd player is probably the dcd1600, but that will be somewhere next year.
I have A-S1000, but I gave only €800 for it. He also play worse before warming up (BJT transistors are temperature sensitive). Not the great amp (also because i can't bypass that OPs), but I am not complaining for that price. A-S3000 costs around $5500, but still overpriced.
have the as-1000 as well. You can definetely hear the relay click when you put all tone controls in neutral, so the op amps can be bypassed. I think he 's mistaken here
Awesome comparison. I bought the AS-2100 on the blind. Was looking to get a Rotel Pre amp and solid state amp and did a comparison A/B and ordered the Yamaha AS-2000. By luck that model was out and I was offered the 2100 at cost. I thought the meter was cool..I knew nothing about mosfet. boy did Iuck out. your review re enforces how lucky I was. I understand your comment that there is no worthy difference between the 2100 and 3000, but aside from parts and features, does the copper or heavy case add to greater fidelity?
I didn't even consider the chassis, because I see absolutely no rational, scientific, and credible evidence as to how the chassis of the 3000 could result in any improvement to the fidelity as compared with the 1100 or 2100. I'm willing to listen if somebody could explain it, however, I'm skeptical as of now. Regards, thanks for the reply. I'm happy for you that you received the 2100.
There's merit to the noise shielding aspect for sure, but the 1100 is noise free as it is. So, if the 3000 is extra noise free, then we end up with 0 x .5 = 0. In other words, what's the diff LOL. Cheers.
Yamaha's claim that the extra beefy chassis of the 3000 reduces the effects of "vibration" and allows for short signal paths. Well, as far as the "vibration" thing goes, I'd say you need a 3000 if you live on a moving train. Otherwise, well ... not sure the effects of a standard homeowner's vibrations have any effect on the movement of electrons through conductors or semiconductors. Tube equipment is another story; you can tap on tube and hear the results in the speaker. Transistors ... well, tap all you want, you won't hear anything. Signal path length? There is certainly merit to having short signal paths, I have no problem with that claim. Regards ....
What a it the large capacity carbon sheath block capacitors. Which differences did you find there between the 1100, 2100 and 3000? I’m not referring to the small 3000 uF smoothing capacities but the capacitors supplying in the order of 100,000 uF (total).
$1,000 can get you a very good headphone amp separate though... Im a bit disappointed they didnt put the Torridial transformer in the 2100...but then again there would be no reason for the 3000.
You are referencing the wrong section of the schematic for the power supply capacitors. The 3300uF caps are small caps and are for filtering the rails of the VA stage only, not the output stage. The output stages use 22000uf/63v caps for the higher end models and 18000uF for the A-S1000/1100 with the A-S3000 having screw terminals and heavy gauge wiring for much better current availability.
Did I screw that up? Darn. Thanks for pointing that out. Makes perfect sense in hindsight, those caps are way too small for a main filter; I just wan't thinking at the time I suppose. I'll go back and take a look.
Well, we don't have a direct collector to base connection in the reference current side that would make it a current mirror. If it is, it's atypical. I agree though that one would expect to see a current mirror on top a differential amplifier. In one sense, these transistors appear to be merely taking the place of what otherwise would be resistors; but because they are transistors, would provide some variability in dropping voltage for some reason (some type of regulation). So, in short, I don't know without further study. Perhaps some guru will stumble upon this post and clear it right up. Regards ....
My GOD! YOU DID ABOVE AND BEYOND ON THIS. WOOW. THANK YOU IN THE NAME OFF ALL OF US WHO REALLY DIGGS THESE KIND OF VIDEOS AND THE LENGTH OF IT. You sir, if i see you somewhere you have a coffee and a dinner on me. Thank you for your work. Transfer of knowledge is most gentleman thing you can do in this age of science and progress. Once again thank you.
Thnx for this very useful info, i was shocked about the minimal differences of the 3000. I own a a-s2000 and considering upgrading to a 1100 / 2100, after watching this video it will be the 2100. In my country (Netherlands) the price difference between the 1100 and 2100 is €500 new, and less if i buy a used one. Because i use headphones and my CD-S2000 got balanced outputs for me its worth the extra €500.
YOur comments that you perefer the highs on the a1000 to the as1100 would you say that the mosfets soften the sound too much. Hard to judge in a store because of different speakers
hey. that's my dream combo! a killer high-end set-up for 'midrange' budget. but I'm in Manila. expensive to import, esp from Germany to Ph. isnt nuvero 60 hard to drive with 83db efficiency? how is 83db nuvero holding up with the amp? can it play satisfyingly loud with as2100 160w max @4ohms? im assuming it can play decently. please feel free to share your experience with this combo
ricky _ph NuVeros need some power indeed. I drove them wit a Yamaha A-S501 first but only with 2100 they started to show their potential. The 2100 is powerful enough. It‘s not the total watts it‘s the much better slew rate (how fast the power can be provided).
I know it’s a different category; but since you know Yamaha’s, what do you think about the A-S801? Should I upgrade to 1100 or is the difference not worth it? I love Yamaha and the way they seem to tailor the volume output, so even when you listen to music at low levels, you still get the full range of sound. I play my 801 out of JBL590 and elac B6.
Hi, indeed very interesting video. I always wanted to have Yamaha A-S1100 or A-S2100. I have Pioneer A-70DA, which is fully balanced, class D against AB here. But. power stage with DIrect POWER MOS (Mosfet) and linear power supply, not impulse one like in other D class amps. How would you rate it against the above two? Would you be so kind to look at schematics and get back with short info? Thank you in advance. Regards PAT
Hallo, thanks for this very informative description. Having a 2100 myself i wanted to ask you something about the tone controlls that i noticed. When using Bass and Treble i can clearly hear a relay switching a neutral position, but no such such thing when i use the Balance knob. I got my amp used (bout 1 year old), so i can´t tell if this is normal or not...
Perfectly normal. The relays in the tone control path serve to bypass the op amps when in neutral. The balance control has nothing to do with the op amps, and hence nothing needs to be bypassed, thus no relay.
Yamaha anounced to give us new models in May, the 1200, 2200, 3100. From what i saw on the few rare pics they look indentical apart from a new Mini USB input, that is probably used for diagnosis like on the C5000.
Also, do you get any hiss past 12 o'clock? AS I do on mine (as3000) when I put my ear near the tweeter and from 1/5 o'clock it is noticeable from listening position. I never listen to past 11 o'clock as if I listen to at 12 o'clock it makes my ears bleed after 1h session. When nothing is connected I can go until 2.5 o'clock before hearing any his when I put my ear against the tweeter. Thanks in advance.
I currently have the Denon integ amp 100th anniversary model. How would you describe the sound of the Yamaha as I listen to classic rock. Thinking anout the 2100
The story of opamp in signal path for A-S2000 is surprising me. I trust your schematic analysis, but on my A-S2000, when I put tone knowbs to neutral, I actually ear a "clic" that makes me think that there is a hard bypass removing all opamps from the signal path .. Why this clic if at the end an opamp remains ??
