Very nicely done. I've been in the paint business for quite some time, so just to help out, no offense intended: First, I wouldn't use steel wool, It's really not needed as you've wet sanded already. someone below said to use bronze wool which is correct but, I don't think that entire step is necessary as you've wet sanded between coats and even fine steel wool can snag and scratch. Second and more importantly. I would never use lacquer thinner to wipe down. It could easily bite into the paint you just put down. The proper solvent here would be alcohol. It will pick up contaminants like dust and such and evaporate quickly as opposed to lacquer thinner which is potentially oily and will disturb the paint. Also, using Alcohol could eliminate the need to use the tack cloth. Other than those two nutsy boltsy things, you were dead on with the patience and technique of the job.
I’m in the middle of this project myself and have a question. If I don’t go with the steel wool after my second color coat, do I need to wet sand with 600 grit before I clear coat or just go right into the clear coat?
@@benrupp04 you could wet sand but, if you use a 220 or 320 grit dry paper you would be fine. Just make sure you get rid of that dust. Very lightly sand with the fine paper. If you go too hard you’ll remove the paint you just applied .. all you want to do is break the glossy surface so the next coat will adhere. The term is creating tooth so there is some things for the new paint to bite into. The only wet sanding I do is after the primer. Wet sanding isn’t wrong, I just don’t think it necessary.
Nice job. People don’t realize that you can actually get flawless finishes with rattle cans be wet sanding and polishing. The problem with most rattle cans is that they give poor atomization because the cans don’t provide adequate air pressure so the paint droplets are bigger than what’s ideal, that causes the heavy orange peal finish you usually get from them. If you take the can and run it under hot water for a little while before spraying it increases the pressure and you get a much finer atomization.
what about overspray? if you use a gun you get the overspray on the parts youre not painting and then it turn flat/gritty and you cant wetsand that because you get like bubbles/etc
This video was so well done on so many levels. That came out great.Thank you for sharing I feel like I can do this now and have it look at least decent.
Great video, clear and to the point. I just had my 1984 evinrude 115 rebuilt and it runs great and now, after following this tutorial, the motor oops as good as it runs. Thanks good job!
Great job I’ve got a 2005 Mercury 90hp two stroke that has a lot of small paint blisters on the cowling. Been there almost from new engine only done around 15hrs.
well--your video inspired me to paint the cover of my Yamaha 350! I have two outside motors in white, and when I had to replace my center engine they wanted $6,000 for a white one!!! So--I got the gray one and I will paint the cover----based totally from your video!! Already have the decals off---the glue from them was tough to get off --tried several sprays--finally got it off! Now doing the wet sanding. Bought a spray gun from Home Depot so I am ready to go!! Will definitely try cardboard first to access the spray gun. Will advise results!!!! Thanks for your video!!!!!!!!!
I painted my yamaha outboard with Moeller paint which was terrible. After 2 months of drying the salt water penetrated the clear coat and gas removed the paint. I wanted to buy the brand that you used and I was wondering if you had any problems and if is a high quality paint ?
i got a 1957 johnson the color is harvest red or something ,,i want to repaint it but want to find a auto spray to match it were can i find a auto paint chart from the 70s
...it's counter productive to not remove the decals...you can get fresh decals for $60...if you're going to the trouble of repainting new decals are a no brainer...
You are quit right; bronze would be better but in either case through cleaning between coats is important. Nearly two years operating in saltwater and no signs of rust yet.
I think this gentleman cleaned up really, really well between his coat applications, I can't imagine there was any steel wool flecks given his meticulous technique. I think the final result speaks for itself.
Thanks for the video. I bought the same color rite spray paint as you in dark bluish gray to repair my Yamaha 60 fs but I’m having trouble with it. When spraying the paint it seems to spit out of the nozzle and I’m left with little splatter marks. I was wondering if you experienced the same thing. Color Rite even sent me two new cans for free but they are doing the same thing. I shook it super long but it still keeps spitting and pooping near the top of the can under the nozzle.
Useful video. Just a word of warning. I used some Rustoleum gloss black spray paint, but later spilled petrol on the paint after it had fully cured and the paint just dissolved and came off. Make sure your chosen paint is petrol proof especially if the outboard has a built in tank.
I think a better idea would be to spray paint the words "Yamaha Four Stroke" on the new Evinrude G2 engines. Evinrude would outsell any manufacturer by far if they did that.
Into the final primer coat. I shot 3 light coats vs 2. Had to buy a 175PSI 30 Gallon tank compressor---my little one would not cut the mustard for my siphon spray gun. The new compressor is awesome and is making this a fun project!!
@@Cutlass_Rudd ...yeah, there is zero benefit to cutting out the decals...if you're going to paint, remove the decal...the decal in most cases is in far worse condition than the paint...
Honestly, I have to admit: Same paint code from same manufacturer applied at the same time in the same conditions and the same manner AND two slightly different colors. Buy your paints all together from the same source at the same time and don’t sweat small differences. You will be the only one to notice.
Yamaha sells their three colors of paint under part numbers ACC-MRNPA-IT-NA (BLACK FOR SHO MODELS), ACC-MRNPA-IT-4D (BLUISH GRAY), AND ACC-MRNPA-IT-8D (BLUE GRAY). You can confirm which color code is correct for your engine by looking at the schematic data for the cowling or other painted parts. If the part number ends in -4D or -8D you have your correct color code. PartsVu dot com stocks a full selection of Yamaha paints along with compatible primers, clear coats, supplies, and decals. We also host a full Yamaha schematic lookup so you can check paint code and decal part numbers for your engine.
The safest answer to this is follow the instructions on the can. General rule is dry to touch and if you start sanding and it feels soft/sticky or globs form on the sand paper; stop and give it more time. For my conditions, Temp/humidity, I gave it several hours or I just waited to the next day.
AnInnerCityKid I would wait a day at least to sand the longer the better you want the paint to set up if you paint over it it’s still curing and will shrink and crack do not use 220 grit that’s way too much 400 is fine 600 is for your base coat and final sand on clear is 1500 to 2000 go thick like 5 coats on base and clear
Oh ya never ever use steel wool u only use that on chrome not paint it will look like crap always use luke warm water and don’t paint in a area where there is a flame like a stove a heater or anything my uncle died painting a car in the garage with the waterboiler element causing the flame
After priming and sanding mine looked like glass when wet. Did first coat of color today and looks really bad. Hoping more coats and sanding will help. Great video!! Follow up: four base color coats and two clear coats and it looks awesome. Thanks for the video. Did get some orange peel with the clear-coat but was able to sand it out with 2000 wet sand paper and polish.. I would recommend putting clear on very lightly
You did a really good job considering what you were working with. I say that because regular spray paint and can clear coat doesn't last more than a few years before fading, cracking, and peeling. You can buy 2K spray cans of clear coat but your colors options are very limited unless you have them made via order just for your color. The 2K cans are seriously expensive but if you did the exact same paint job with the 2K cans it will last easily 10X longer. It would probably be even cheaper just to buy a gallon of regular auto paint and hardener if you have an air compressor and spray gun. Either way you still did a great job with one Major exception! The only thing that was a serious "No No" was your choice of primer. You can't use that type of primer on fiberglass! You absolutely need to use epoxy primer on fiberglass. If you haven't figured out why yet, give it about one more year... You'll know why!
I've seen metal, fiberglass, and plastic cowlings. I believe my 1985 Yamaha 40 cowling is plastic. Plastic is just easier to produce using injection molding and a better way of mass producing. I would prefer plastic as it's much more durable to bumping and banging around. Protect all plastic cowlings from the sun/heat though and they won't end up brittle and crack as easy, especially in Florida.
Like with any paint job you need to check the paint label for drying time. There is usually a dry time for a repaint without having to sand and one for sanding. Generally, if you go much over 24 hours for another application sanding would be a good idea. In any case, always do a touch test for tackiness before sanding.
I wanna paint my engine as well but a little bit simpeler. is this a right order? 1. wash 2. dry sanding 200 grit 3 use primer 4 wet sanding 600 grit. 5. paint.
First, Laqcuer thinner will just remove or ruin rustolium primer . Second ,remove masking from decals before clear coat .color will flow to edges of decals and look better, Plus protect them . Get with it!!!!
HUH??? ? all that work and you didn't buy new decals? Then you should have never used a razor to score around the old decals....hope you sprayed over with more clear coat. Did you get any overspray on your classic car or blue blazer?
With all respect for hard work, this is too much. I don't see a point to use a primer and aftermarket paint when you can get Yamalube ACC-MRNPA-IT-8D Marine Spray. No priming, original paint match. Use 3M filler for imperfections and surface cracks. You can paint in 2-3 hours. 1/3 work but same or even better results. If you enjoy physical labor and a lot of mess you can follow this video.
I've been painting automobiles for 37 years. There is no reason to prime the whole engine cover, especially if you are masking the decals, this leads to excessive material build up around the decals. Looking at the damage, you only had to prime the top surfaces. Sanding the whole cover with 220 grit is too rough and costed you lots of extra prep time. Wiping down with lacquer thinner is foolish, it is too harsh. use a wax/grease remover or a bug and tar remover. I honestly don't think that is what you had in the lacquer thinner can, because that should have messed up the primer when you wiped it on that wet. 0000 steel wool is too fine for final sanding, , you should use a 3m gray scuff pad. Yes people you can do this at home, but ask your local friendly bodyshop for good advise before you do this. Pictures of a result vs actual results vary. I can see the excessive buildup around the decals on this video, I bet the rest of it looks like I think it does too. Boat covers are expensive, be careful.
oh stop the whining it came out great and he was nice enough to take his time to post. On the other hand, what did you offer? your nothing but a negative troll behind a keyboard go away
You are quit right about using steel wool on a paint project however these covers were small and not complicated in design. With proper cleaning I was, apparently, able to remove any contamination. I operated these engines covers for about five years in saltwater operations without any sign of rust contamination.
After watching this video I decided I’d give it a try. This paint will ruin your project. I used the clear coat thinking if I spend more money I get better product, but it was the biggest mistake. Have to pay extra storage for my boat and push the launch day because the lower units are not ready to install. Customer service will be very nice with you on the phone, but you will get Nowhere. I wish I could show the pictures of a perfect paint job just to ruin it with COLORRITE clear coat. Please think about it before buying anything from them. They will come with 100 excuses why you may have applied the paint wrong. What a scam. I will continue these feedbacks for as long as I ride the trains going to work lol
@@limosofsouthflorida283 you could be right. However, the paint dried as it was pollen on a cleaned car. I used a cheaper clear coat and the drives came out beautiful.
@ cepuras I agree!! It should have been HIGHLY suggested to replace decals if one can afford to do so, or you 'could' end up with a crap job. This one turned out pretty good though! There are many choices of doing a job that we must decide how it will be done. I guess some wallets are much thicker than others though. To do it right, yes, you would completely strip the item. I do not find the decals to be expensive at all. Driving an exact-o blade into my old paint( it's unavoidable and will flake in time) and hard to hide blemish once the tape has been removed along with the paint build up along the edge of where the tape was. No, you cannot see that on camera though. But then again, he probably doesn't realize how many perfectionists are watching....... Believe me, I seen other's work and taping decals is way too much work. Been there, tried that. It's not for me. BUT!!! Look at this video and it was done on a balcony of all places!!! Not perfect but very nicely done. Now that's confidence!!!!!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-acoCePs-PhQ.html
