I have a Ducati Scrambler and just had the ECU flashed mainly to get rid of the jerky throttle. Best thing I've done to the bike. Didn't get to go into dyno room so enjoyed the vid and explanations from you guys. Keep up the good work!
bizarre - just came back from a track day where a guy advised to go to woolwich to sort out dodgy fuelling on a GSXR 1000 K6 (with Bazzaz FI)... definitely going for it!
Can't understand why you didn't do it sooner. Had my gen 4 Z1000, hypermotard 1100 evo sp and my rsv4 all mapped and reflashed at cjs. The man is a genius.
ECU is the brain. Change the brain. The brain is where everything is controlled in the first place. Piggyback modules modify signals after the brain sent them. Much less adjustment can be done in that way. All that crackle and pop is just O2 being introduced from the PAIR system on deceleration. Deceleration was adjusted to keep the injectors spraying (factory condition shuts them off) which provides a much smoother throttle transition off/on, but mixing a big of fuel with fresh O2 from the PAIR system creates more combustion in the exhaust system.
Yea the block off plates help so AFR sensor can get a proper reading when on the dyno so do the plates BEFORE you get it tuned. ZX10R have secondary throttle plates (STP) instead of the stacks on the Yamaha. In the STP map the plates actually start to shut at top end to get around emissions and you lose a lot of HP. So if you use something like Woolich or FlashTune make sure to get these changed so they stay wide open at the top end.
One of the most interesting things I've watched all year. I didn't know add-ons don't have access to the whole map. Thanks for sharing this! I'd be interested to see how the auto-tune add-ons fair, since they're supposedly constantly tuning the map as you ride.
AutoTune add-ons from piggyback systems again only work with fuel maps (some work with ignition if you pay extra for another piggyback module). However, working with the ECU covers both of these plus the really fundamental aspects i.e. secondary throttle plate or electronic throttle valve as seen on the R1. Countless other aspects (i.e. maps/settings) to work with in the ECU.
Woolich Racing Thanks, makes sense. I wonder if the technology is at the stage in which the auto-tune + power commander is better than a dyno-tune + power commander.
Love this stuff, I have an r1and have had the engine remapped also. removing the air induction system and adding block off plates will get rid off that horrible pop and bang on desell , plus it will be smoother with slightly less engine braking..
I first heard these R1M backfires back in 2015 at the 8hour race at oschersleben in germany... I fell in love instantly... before every corner the bike startet fireworks😍
A lot of people have to thank Justin ( Justin Woolich) who an Australian for flashing there bikes, I do it myself with auto tune 197 hp and lots more low end and midrange and Auto blipping on my gen 5 Zx10r
Daniel S it comes with the ecu flasher box, so in other words just original unit, you don’t need to buy the auto tune for that and a side note you can also use gp shift on the normal box, both are included and in the package; you’ll see it on his website at www.Woolichracing.com sorry should have explained it better
Love the technical/knowledge side of stuff. Good point on making a bike more rideable than peak HP. I understand why a tuner isn't a good but why is this better than something like an autotune unit? The way I see it that tune works at its best at that exact altitude, air temp and etc.
There are too many variables with auto-tune units and half the time (from experience) they don't work anyway! The adjustability and fine tuning that comes with ECU flashing is far more effective, even at a wider range of environments
Thanks for this. Getting my yam xsr900 flashed with a woolich racing map at Steve Jordan motorcycles soon. Can't wait for it to smooth out the throttle.
Great video guys. Lots of good info, especially as I have a stage 2 tuned R1M too. I'd love to see the data from your tuner, I bet my guy wasn't as experienced as yours!!!
Jordan Eade yeah I was hoping for something .... the last vid I saw was whe it was all carbon’ed up but no real review of how the bike was, then Barron got the HP4 Race .... everything else went to the wall ....
@@jordaneade7444 I have asked if he still has the R1M but no reply, I wonder if he sold it to help fund the HP4 Race ? if not would have been good to see a track day comparison of them both
Direct throttle handle to throttle position ratio must be great on track. But it would be twitchy on the road I guess? Very direct but twitchy on low speed and hard to maintain a certain speed.
Great how you explain it to us fellows who didn't pay attention in school. Thank you, Happy Holidays to you Both!!! (well all 5 on this video, you know what I mean though)
Love spending 20 grand for a bike intended for road use and the stock mapping makes it choppy as hell in the low rev range where you'll be stuck around town lol.
So after watching this video I have numerous questions. I agree an ecu flash is the way forward however I didn't see any items unlocked for example pit lane limiter, auto blip etc. I run a s1000 which fair enough comes with this as standard on the sport which I have but I know people who I'm happy to recommend as we are both in the trade who would at least offer you these options.
Just goes to show what manufacturers are doing to pass emissions. Basically detuning the bike in important areas, and increasing CC for easy power to make up for it. There really needs to be some sort of evolution to make up for this stagnancy that has crept in to the motorcycle world.
All that popping on the overrun sounds & looks sexy on a short vid but would probably become tiresome in daily riding and will also probably ruin the muffler packing over time. Any reason in particular the tune is dumping so much fuel on the overrun, even with the throttle closed? BTW, that Akra looks beautiful; thinking of getting pretty much the same thing for my '17 Tuono Factory.
All that crackle and pop is just O2 being introduced from the PAIR system on deceleration. Deceleration was adjusted to keep the injectors spraying (factory condition shuts them off) which provides a much smoother throttle transition off/on, but mixing a big of fuel with fresh O2 from the PAIR system creates more combustion in the exhaust system. The PAIR is only there to provide the catalyzer some O2 to burn left over emissions. Remove the CAT, remove the PAIR, install full system, install good intake filter, and get it tuned.
6 лет назад
Poping is because engine runs LEAN, not reach, a common misunderstanding.
Sebastián Demaría FALSE. When exhaust systems are modified, the flow-rate increases through the engine. Sure this makes the engine run more lean, but that's not the source of popping and crackling. That's coming from the PAIR system injecting fresh O2 into the exhaust after the combustion chamber. When that mixes with unburned fuel in the exhaust system.....BANG! The crackle is not the engine, it's air/fuel in the exhaust system after the engine.
Should have gone to seton racing I did with his pipe 199 on wheel give him a shout he also puts the a b and c modes as full power but with different engine braking so different tracks and surfaces works well
I just bought a brand new R1 S. I am a fairly astute tuner and it is my understanding that if you can flash an ecu, you have complete control over ignition AND fuel trims. So why in the world do people flash the ecu AND run a PC5??
They have to pass emissions testing out of the factory, so compromises must be made, plus the owner throws the factory tune out of balance by changing exhaust components.
yea they dont want their bikes running at 100% peak from factory either for safety reasons, every car and bike comes "restricted" in a sense. also as he mentioned the bike gives less fuel idle and throughout speed stock, that is probably partly for safety and also for fuel economy, especially in cars.
they dont want their bikes running at 100% peak from factory either for safety reasons, every car and bike comes "restricted" in a sense. also as he mentioned the bike gives less fuel idle and throughout speed stock, that is probably partly for safety and also for fuel economy, especially in cars.
I'm really interested to hear what kind of afr are you tuning these bikes to run ? Our 2008 CBR 1000rr is tuned to 13,3 and some say it's too lean. We're also having a small issue when exciting the corners. When you go back on the throttle it gives a bit of a jerk and it looses traction really easily. And yes it's flashed with Woolich also.
