Hi there I just got my bike last Sunday April second and I'm 5, 7 I'm feeling so uncomfortable on this bike I'm glad that I saw your video thank you now I have to find some help to do this job. On lowering my bike
Once lowered, does the rear wheel go further into the bike at full bottom out? Is there and contact with the rear tyre and plastic guard at full compression?
It is possible to make contact with the rear tire even with the OEM suspension setup which is one of reasons it's important to get the bike sag correct. Lowering the bike does not change the travel of the rear shock so the risk of bottoming out is similar.
No need to adjust the center stand, you'll have a little bit more lift, but it shouldn't be a big deal. As for the side stand, the lean will be different, and our Adjustable Side Stand is the perfect option!
They're a great part! We don't have any distributors in South America, so shipping can be a little expensive. Often, if you email our customer service team (info -at- altrider.com) with your locations specifics and the part you want they can often offer a better shipping price then our automated check out system. These will be in stock in a few weeks.
That’s a great suggestion! We did do something similar in some of our later videos of lowering links for different bikes. Like you said the “real world” measurements can be helpful, but each person’s bike will sit at slightly different heights because things like tire type and wear can impact it. Plus the relationship will remain regardless of what the real world measurements are. In other words, if you install it at the lowest setting of 30mm your seat height measurements will be 30mm lower than whatever your OEM seat height measurement is.
Was looking at this as a solution for converting the t7 to super moto. 17's going on and wanted to keep decent heat tube angle. Thinking a lowering link may be the solution to this. Have to messed with lowering link and super moto wheels at all?
I just installed your kit at the 30 mm setting. I learned a couple lessons: 1. The torque on the fork tubes was about half of what's called for. That, or my 30 year old torque wrench is way off; in which case i just jacked my forks. 😮 2. The seat height is good 👍. I'm 5'7" and the lowering links were definitely needed. Question: is the 22mm fork adjustment an accurate measurement based on the lowering link 30mm hole (keeping rake to the factory setting)? Or, is the 22mm fork adjustment as far as you can go, but you actually need more? I ask because I feel more weight on the bars now, than I did prior to the change. I recognize that this is ok at speed, but it will decrease turning radius and control at slower speeds - correct? If this is correct, I'll prolly readjust to the -18mm setting. Thanks in advance.
Glad you like the lowering links! We suggest a making roughly 50% of the change you made on you rear suspension to the front suspension. So if you lower the rear suspension 30mm, a 50% change in the front would be 15mm. The factory setting is likely around 7mm from the triple top of the fork tube. Add the 15mm and that brings you to the 22mm lower limit. A local suspension shop can talk with you about possible other options if you want to explore other options or a different feel.
30 mm is the maximum we recommend. Going beyond that starts to have a series of implications, including considerations with ground clearance, rear wheel travel, clearance to the rear fender, and impact to the suspension.
Thanks for your inquiry - you’re correct. You increase the mechanical advantage on the initial part of the stroke so it will feel softer, but then it does ramp up quicker and becomes a firmer spring before it bottoms out. The rule of thumb is if you lower more than 1 inch you need to investigate spring rate. But we always advise to set the height you prefer and then ride in your typical riding environment to determine if you think you need to make an adjustment. if you do, we advise contacting a spring or suspension company, Progressive is a good contact out in California.
Nice design! What about preload? If you lower the bike you should increase preload or even use a stiffer spring am I correct? I understand behaviour of the rear suspension and bike of this +12, -18 and - 30mm have been analysed somehow? Do you have or can provide the graphs of the behaviour with linear spring? I m about to buy 80 or 85 N rear spring, and if I lower the bike with these links, maybe I should go better for the 85 if I'm in between? Thanks!
Good question, I would suggest you get the lowering link and see how it, it will give you a chance to experience the OEM spring. That might help indicate whether the 80nm vs 85nm would be better. As you know each position will change how the spring reacts. Essentially 25-30mm of lowering is the time when a new spring should be considered as the rider is already exceeding the preload. So, you very well may be better with the 85NM, but testing with the links first will be helpful. Additionally, playing with the different positions on the link will help validate your feel while riding if you need more spring tension.
