This is our V2 (version #2) crash bars combo featuring updated parts. Detailed video installation instructions including torque specs and recommended tools. Click the link to purchase here 👉 zaap.bio/yamaha_tenere700
Best looking crash guards around and fit well above my adventure spec skid plate ( if anyone was wondering). Wow the two bolts that need to be removed for the center plate are tough to get out! No wonder u skipped that part….it would have been an hour video!
I've just installed a set of your lower & upper crashbars to my 2021 Yamaha T7. All went well. No dramas or hassles. Everything lined up & fitted. Thank you. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
This took me a little over 3 hours to install. The easy part was doing what this video says. The difficult part was tightening everything down. 2 of the C clamps stripped on me which made things interesting. I will be contacting customer service about some replacements. Other than that, they look great and feel very solid!
There have been some comments on the difficulties with the Ver.1 cash bars. Happy to see you are on top of the any problems and addressing any issues. BTW just saw the Pol Tarres T7 hill climb video with your products in play. If you are sponsoring him, my thanks. That was an awesome video of the basically stock Tenere 700
Thanks for the positive feedback! Yes, there were some issues with a batch of the first generation crash bars but we’ve made plenty of improvements to our crash bars. Indeed, Pol Tarres chose our Tenere 700 armour and he will certainly put them to test!
Finally finished! Only took me 5 hours! Lol feels strong though! Only thing is I wish I had a smaller torque wrench that also read in NM instead of just pounds per foot. Thanks guys! Amazing product! Very happy with it!!
Hi, great work on those crash bars. Apparently there is still some confusion/doubts concerning fitment over the oem euro5 rally skid plate as it is slightly different from the euro4 due to the new cat installed. So, will your new crash bars (v2) fit perfectly with the euro5 skid plate? Or is there some steel trimming to be done? Thanks, keep it up!
@@Outbackmotortek thank you for replying! Any plans on a v2.1 :) to overcome this small issue? Ensuring a perfect fit over the new oem skid plate could be a decisive touch for many of us. As for me, still a fan and will definitely consider your crash bars. Cheers
@@josersofia9194 just to clarify this only affects the “Rally” edition skid plate, not the standard OEM one. We’ll not make modifications to our crash bars. Thanks for your understanding.
Under the main bolt that goes into the engine, do you leave the stock washer underneath or no? I think you should really provide some technical guide for these in the package... Stock washer on the right side even has a special shape with some purpose, I feel like it should stay there and not be crashbars straight onto the frame. What is the correct way? From this video it seems you don't put them? thx for an info
I had a problem on the 2023 Tenere model with the Exhaust Plate where the lower bar has to be i had to hammer it a bit so it had a slight curve for the bar that will pass beneath
Some additions that would be helpful to explain if not demonstrate: We had to remove our skid plate and if you have a euro5 bike take off the sheild on the catalytic converter. Show the OEM bolts that need to be removed to install the center brace. What are your suggested tools to use to torque? A standard torque wrench with socket clearly does not fit ouver the engine bolts in the space between the bike and the crash bar
Thanks for your feedback. The cover of the Euro 5 catalytic converter does not need to be removed. We know of plenty of customers who keep them on. There are smaller, more compact torque wrenches available. Option B is to remove the plastic panels if you want easier access to tighten the M12 bolts.
@@Outbackmotortek I would like to hear from these customers because the owners we have asked have had to remove, worp, or destroy the sheild to access the c-clamp. Taking off the plastics is much more invasive than what you've outlined in this video. You should still actively show you customers how to get the job done.
Unfortunately we don’t know. Perhaps ask this question on a Tenere 700 for a more accurate reply. We’re certain that some customers have attempted to mate the two products already
@@RitzSamaritano There's a minor interference. If that's a problem, then you can just press the cover with your finger and it'll bend a bit to clear the tubing. The cover is extremely flimsy and thin.
@@loekzinken4954 a smaller Torque wrench and a smaller nur. I mean smaller in overall size. On the left side i had problems because even my small wrench was to big.
@@loekzinken4954 I did it as a final step with the torque wrench and I did not meet any issue. I used a big one, what I use normally for my car wheels.
@@Outbackmotortek Do you still use the factory washer between the frame and crash bars on the right side engine mount? It's a special washer with a lipped edge that fits in the hole on the frame.
Hi lads can I ask where is your company (garage) where I could go and install everything with side bags and all ???? I’m from Ireland 🇮🇪 thanks lads ( your subscriber)
@@Outbackmotortek ooohhhhh thanks lads for this information I thought you ignored me but no thanks again lads I try to contact you by email about address in Liverpool
Installed the lower and there was no way they could "stay loose" once I threaded in the two bolts top left of the bars. The bar is under tension. Also this video skips over stuff the original does like removing the coolant reservoir and if bolts need to be removed to install the upper bracket under the headlight.
A couple of tips for you: back out the bolts a bit more. 1-2 turns maximum will solve the tension problem. You can also try a different sequence of inserting bolts. Yes, the OEM bolts must be removed from the bracket under the headlight in order to mount the bracket. Removing the coolant reservoir is a simple enough task: just remove one single bolt. It’s not a necessary step though. Just how we mount T7 crash bars.
@@Outbackmotortek So you are saying you replace the bolts on the upper center bracket with all new hardware? Also seem to missing something as the holes on the bracket don't seem to line up with the bolts on the bike. And no matter how far I back out the bolts the bars are tight and I have to push/force them to line up.
@@Outbackmotortek yeah , but it has an other skid plate ? i my country we have an selling point for Outback motorrek . and on the website there is an line : Important note: only confirmed to be compatible with the factory equipped Yamaha skid plate. We’ll update this note as soon as we learn of other compatible aftermarket skid plates.
I can't talk down the motor mount bolt due to where the crash bars are positioned. You guys may want to look at repositioning this in a future update so that the most important bolt can be torqued down to spec.
