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Yamaha Virago Ignition Coil Replacement

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Replacing the two ignition coils/wires, caps and spark plugs.
NOTE: I accidentally deleted the video segment on where I pulled the coils out and put them back in. The mounting screw at the front of the coil is removed so that the coil can be removed from the mount - don't forget to remove the caps. From there, the front/left side coil is easy - just route the wire as necessary. For the rear cylinder coil, remove the cap and tape a wire (similar in size) to the end of the spark plug wire before pulling the coil out. This is necessary in order to pull the new coil wire back across the top of the engine and frame since it's a pretty tight fit.
Changing the coils is pretty easy but understanding how all the components work as a system can be a bit of work. I've spent about 20 years as a technician/technologist and electrical engineer working on high frequency, high voltage and high power radiating elements (radar, sonar, satcom) and I've heard and read some pretty bad explanations about cap and plug resistance which can confuse and mislead people trying to troubleshoot a bad spark.
Most early Viragos came with NGK BP7ES (non-resistor) plugs which are discontinued and hard to find. NGK now specifies the BPR7ES replacement which is a resistor plug with 5K ohms (5,000 ohms) of internal resistance. Since the original spark plug caps had a 5K ohm resistor built in, using any brand of resistor plug adds another 5K of resistance to the system. This causes a further voltage drop leading to a weaker spark and misfires. To make matters worse, some Virago caps had a removable resistor/spring combination that was prone to corrosion.
Resistors in caps and plugs are there only to suppress RF ignition noise (they have no other function) and only reduce spark intensity. If you can't find a non-resistor type plug, you can remove the cap resistor or simply experiment with other values. Once I installed and tested the aftermarket coils, my final set up was the NGK BPR7EIX Iridium spark plug and NGK LB01EP cap. This setup has proven to work well and with the carbs properly tuned, I'm now getting very good engine performance with strong throttle response and no misfires or backfires.
The OEM Yamaha coils are also hard to find and I ended up sourcing something that works, but the voltage and igniter trigger pins are in the wrong location. Details about how I had to work around this are shown in the video.
For proper coil primary & secondary resistance values, check your service manual for the actual specification and verify that the spec is to be measured with or without the cap resistance.
Link to the coils:
www.aliexpress...
Link to the caps:
www.amazon.com...

Опубликовано:

21 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 42

@MarkFlint-xb6zg Год назад

Thankyou for a very informative video. I'm from over the pond. Virago xv1100 coils needed changing,new plugs ngkbps7es, new caps 5k. Runs like a dream. Thanks.

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

This is so cool. I’m glad the video was helpful and I really appreciate the wonderful comment!!

@philipbell3187 2 года назад

I have put 2new coils on my 750 virago year 1992 , with no problem, my main problem was the carbs had gunge in them,stopping the petrol getting through , so stripped them down and sonic cleaned them , then put all new jets and gaskets in , I don’t have that small hose going to that box , I think it’s because my bike is a UK model, nice to see you explain about the coils and Leeds. I got my 2 from a motorcycle repair shop and were maid in the UK .

@DaveYadaraf 2 года назад

Ken, did you know that the resistor in the cap can be removed and replaced with a brass conductor, and thus limit the overall ignition resistance to the plug's 5K? Look inside the original cap and you'll see a flat screw head. Carefully unscrew it and allow the 5K resistor and tension spring to fall out. Check and clean any corrosion. I now run the BKR 5K plugs with a solid piece of brass in the cap. 😎

@KensWorldRestorations 2 года назад

Yep...I did but thanks for highlighting that. My problem was that the dude before me changed out the caps and not only were they not OEM, but they were of different resistor values too. And you're right about most of the old caps - the resistor can be screwed out and you'll see it - usually looks like a small fuse. Problem is now, the OEM BP7ES plugs are obsolete and the caps need to be of lesser overall resistance to match the original system resistance if you buy 5K plugs. These days, most caps have the resister moulded right in and it can't be removed. Not a big deal since the caps I bought were only $5 each.

@anthonyarmstrong9508 Год назад

Thank you for this awesome video.I learned more in this video than at school.😁👍💯💯💯

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

I'm glad you found it helpful!! Hope you get your bike running well.

@mestep511 Год назад

Thanks for a very comprehensive summer semester type class on this system. Awesome. The NGK 1k caps are now not available, though. No luck on subs. For reasons I cannot understand I cannot measure the resistor in the stock caps on one I pulled this morning in pajamas. File, scrape, new batteries, and check several resistors in parts box. Three Viragos in garage so will play some more but leaning to a piece of 6 or 8g copper down the rabbit hole. Still got about 50 of your videos to go. Enjoy

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

Thanks for that - I really appreciate the time you took to comment. This was one of my earlier videos and I was still trying to find my way when it came to these videos and my restoration project. One thing to always keep in mind is that the cap resistor is optional. It's there to suppress noise and for no other reason. I like to eliminate things like cap resistors when I troubleshoot because they can be so temperamental. The wires themselves break down and I find that causes more problems than anything else. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@91donwilson Год назад

Yet another useful video! I got BP7ES plugs and a Hendler ignition coil from Wemoto Australia

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

Thanks Donny - really means a lot knowing someone from the other side of the planet is watching along. Those BP7ES plugs are nearly impossible to find here. Thanks for the comments - they're always appreciated. Keep watching...got a couple more coming soon.

@davidd.barton2488 2 года назад

I have the same luck, thanks for the detailed video ...lifesaver. God bless u brother. Peace

@KensWorldRestorations 2 года назад

Glad I could help. That's what this is all about for me. Just trying to have fun and find my way. If someone else benefits, that's awesome. Peace back.

@Automotivehijinx 10 месяцев назад

Great video, lots of good information.

@KensWorldRestorations 10 месяцев назад

Thanks!!

@Thumperwrestler 2 года назад

You have an Amazon or Ebay link for coils for a 1997 XV750? Also, if you're ever riding around philly, lets grab a beer. 😎

@KensWorldRestorations 2 года назад

Try these from Caltric - I've heard that their coil replacement works well. www.amazon.com/Caltric-IGNITION-YAMAHA-XV-1100-1986-1999/dp/B014WWUU74/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1WW2FIQDM69YD&keywords=Yamaha+Virago+1100+ignition+coil&qid=1658447951&sprefix=yamaha+virago+1100+ignition+coil%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-7#customerReviews I'll take you up on any beer offer!!! Cheers!

@miltonrobinson5183 Год назад

I measured new coils I got they are at 2.7 ohms my stock ones 4.2 to 4.5 I would assume lower resistance be better did u test your new coils

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

Good point. I actually didn’t measure the resistance of the new coils. But I’m sure with today’s technology, much of the copper wire today is manufactured to different standards than from 40 years ago - low oxygen copper is common today. I’d say, yes, lower is better (to a point - obviously you don’t want to read a short). One of the biggest problems that people overlook, including licensed mechanics, is the health of the rubber insulation. I’ve seen coil wires misbehave even when measured to spec - this is because the insulation breaks down and the high voltage goes to ground (arcing to the frame, engine, etc). This is more apparent when the coil wires get wet. I’d say any reasonable resistance on the primary or secondary that is close to the shop manual spec is going to be ok. Just keep your eyes on the aging rubber parts too.

@Thumperwrestler 2 года назад

You keep the nut on top of your spark plugs? The cap doesn’t fit correctly with the nut on the top.

@KensWorldRestorations 2 года назад

I have the type of cap that requires that the nut stay on the plug. You can buy the caps either way. But good point for everyone to know that you have to match everything - even making sure that your cap is designed for a nut or thread.

@mickleyland5057 Год назад

Hello Ken. Thanks for your great video's. We chatted a while ago. I'm having trouble ! I had a mechanic clean and set the carbs. Didn't feel I could do it myself. When I collected the bike it sounded great at tick over. Riding only 7 miles home it ran terrible. When I arrived home it cut out and wouldnt start again. Misfiring whilst trying. Now it doesn't even offer to start. I checked the fuel pump, checked the coils ,leads and caps using a multimeter all good. It's had new plugs, cleaned out the fuel tanks and replaced the fuel filter. Any advice where to go next ?

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

Firstly, you may want to just take the bike back and explain what happened (or call your mechanic over the phone). He may have a quick solution (ie. forgot something). Otherwise, go back to the plugs first. Pull them out and have a look - they tell a story and never lie. Since it was just recently serviced and the plugs were new, if after just a short ride they are light brown with little signs of combustion, then you are getting fuel starvation. That could be caused by sticking floats - a VERY common problem right after a full carb overhaul. If you can, remove the rubber air inlets at the carbs so you can see the CV throttle plunger. During start you should be able to see fuel spraying (like an aerosol can) from the base of the needle. If not, your floats may be sticking. Tap the float bowls with the base of a screwdriver handle (gently but firmly). This will dislodge the needle and start the flow of fuel into the float bowl. If your floats are stuck open, there should be the tell-tale sign of fuel seeping from the float bowl area. That would also cause a very rich condition leading to plug fouling and misfires. If the plugs are loaded up with soot and wet, then it’s obviously rich. The rich state with misfiring can caused by so many things. New caps & plugs don’t mean anything if they’re not the right ones. Old viragos had NGK BP7ES (no resistor) and a 5K resistor in the cap - as I mentioned in this video, they are near impossible to find, and with older caps and a 5K resistor type plug (BPR7ES), you’ll have reduced spark intensity. Visually check the quality of the spark (both) by pulling the plug and grounding the case against the cylinder and cranking the engine. it should make a distinct snapping sound and look bright bluish-white. I’ve seen underperforming coils, caps & plugs measure to spec but still be inadequate to produce a healthy spark for strong combustion. Hope this helps.

@mickleyland5057 Год назад

Great advice Ken. I've made al start 🤞

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

@@mickleyland5057 Awesome Mick…keep me posted. K

@mickleyland5057 Год назад

@@KensWorldRestorationsHi, spoke to the mechanic and he's sure it's not a fuel issue. I have a spark on the front plug, but none on the rear. The spark plugs are the type recommended. But I'm not sure about the caps. I'm currently replacing the rectifier, but screws are seized. Waiting for wd40 to work it's magic 🤞 But if there was an electrical fault would I be getting a spark on the front? Both coils seem to be as they should be.

@KensWorldRestorations Год назад

@@mickleyland5057 Ok…good start. Remember the Virago needs a strong battery to start because the TCI feeds the coil voltage directly from the battery. If the battery is low on start, the spark is weak. YES, you can have one cylinder firing and one not. One cylinder firing is usually a sign of a loose wire somewhere. Check the wire connection from the TCI unit (on the front of the rear fender - a bit of a schmuck to get at) and make sure the coil wires are tight and clean and make sure the cap and plug are all sorted out. If it’s the rear cylinder, I’ve seen MANY Virago coil HT leads short out against the frame due to the rubber breaking down. If you feel even a mild electric jolt anywhere along the high voltage leads (including the caps) there is stray voltage leaking and it will find its way to ground very quickly. Keep plugging away…you’re getting close.

@shaneskinnersr.8933 5 месяцев назад

After putting on new coils I have spark in the rear cylinder but not the front

@KensWorldRestorations 5 месяцев назад

see if you can isolate the fault by switching the leads from the ECU. Try isolating the caps and plugs as well by switching them from coil to coil and see if the problem follows the coil or the component.

@Thumperwrestler 2 года назад

What are the signs that coils are bad? My 1997 with only 700 miles sat for 25 yrs, carbs cleaned, got it running. Rides for about 10 miles then when it gets very hot, it sputters out and dies. Let it sit for 10 mins, restarts like nothing happened.

@KensWorldRestorations 2 года назад

The signs aren't always obvious but if you are 100% sure everything else in the chain is working perfectly, then age is the biggest factor. The most obvious sign in that the spark isn't a bright blue, snappy spark. If they're that old, probably a good idea to change them. These Virago coils have the high voltage output cable molded right into the coil pack and 99% of the time, it's the wires that are breaking down. It's usually corrosion of the copper conductor or the rubber insulation breaking down. If you've got heat issues, it may be the ignitor module/TCI unit. The electronics in that thing can sometimes be sensitive to heat. If your bike sat for 25 years, I'd say anything rubber is toast (seals, o-rings and ignition wires/caps).

@katobytes 10 месяцев назад

Did you figure this out? Having this issue now

@Thumperwrestler 10 месяцев назад

@@katobytesI believe it was a mixture of a bad petcock and still the bike having vapor lock

@katobytes 10 месяцев назад

@@Thumperwrestler Thank you for the response!

@PJ-ys4tx 2 года назад

What type of boegie you use now? Instead of the BP7ES?

@KensWorldRestorations 2 года назад

I use the NGK BPR7ES Iridium plugs now but I have replaced the OEM plug cap (that had a 5K resistor in it) with an NGK cap with only 1K. This setup seems to work really well.