Yamaha Virago XV 535 Running Rough Missing and Backfiring 

I feel the frustration,I too have same model as you,it was sold to me as non running WITH running issues,through the years I have done and thrown everything at it. Compression is A+,wiring A+ ,components top-notch,Carbs had rooted rubber components including rock hard "plugs" in the float bowls and cracked diaphragms ,AH HA I thought. -Still didnt fix it-BUT noticed lights being brighter at idle than revved up,checked charging voltage and noticed a dramatic drop at high rev's. Replaced original voltage rect/reg' (which also is in an asanine location ABOVE the exhaust bell housing under bike),I installed a Golwing reg/rect' and mounted it under the left side fake chrome "bulge"--charging was 100% and full voltage no drop off after that (I have tried 2 Caltric reg/rect's and both failed within a day before Honda one). Ran like a champ,test rode it for 45 miles,stopping/going everything I put it through the ringer "it's done" I thought. Rode it 25 miles to deliver on a hot day and it vaporlocked due to fuel hose too close to rear cylinder. Still to this day it fouls rear plug mainly no matter what,I say it's a design flaw of where the carbs are on TOP of cylinders cooking from heat. Bike has now sat collecting dirt for over 4 years ,next step for me is trying a single carb' conversion and tossing those nightmare ones from the factory which worked fine new but cannot be serviced with parts any longer (and yes I tossed internal rubber plugs and installed pipe thread brass plugs). Good luck to ALL 535 owners,I say toss them and get an old Honda.

Sounds like only one cylinder is firing. I had a similar problem with my front cylinder not firing. It was the corroded pickup coil wire connection. All the pins were green like yours. I used vinegar and salt mix together like an acid wash and soaked the wire end connectors for about 3 minutes. Then I use my cordless toothbrush to clean the contacts. Then I rinsed the connectors off with water and baking soda. Then I dried everything off waited about 10 minutes and connected everything back and everything was good. That solved the issue! Both cylinders running strong now!

I had same issue with my front cylinder. I swap my carburator to single carb and its running smooth and more power full.

Check your coils. Test the resistance between primary terminals in the connector it must be 3.8 to 4.6 ohms then test resistance between sparkplug wire and one of the primary terminals, should be 10.6 to 25.8 k ohms

I had what appeared to be the same issue, it was carbs . Pilot adjustment and rebalance.

Excelent video greetings from Venezuela teacher

" which throws the engine into reverse and spits out the carb" What?? That's for sure? If this helps: I'll do it, blow into the overflow pipe of the rear cylinder carburetor, then the rear cylinder will work fine! I had this.

Hola, saludos sólo aclarar que el módulo de encendido se llama TCI y no es un CDI cumplen la misma función, pero el TCI está directamente relacionado con la batería no como en el caso del CDI. Buena suerte amigo.

The engine's are bulletproof. Most people forget that the fuel pump becomes week. It will supply enough to run but not ride . Most give up.

94 plate 535 here had one cylinder after replacing fuel mix screw for new cylinders back tried everything before the fuel mix screw.

Diode in the plug cap ? well done for getting into the ecu !!!!

I read somewhere that these engines should be fitted with restrictors in the inlets which are frequently either left out or fitted to the exhausts by mistake

on the oem ignition coils u cant just swap wires because one terminal is smaller and one is bigger

fuel pump maybe ? listen to see if it clicking and working if only clicks once the connections are fucked. sounds like it not getting enough fuel. mine has this problem at the moment and i noticed the fuel pump is not pumping enough fuel

11:59 a few of those caps look swollen, or it could be just the camera angle. Bottom right, and centre

Currently working on mine with the electrical. Runs after sitting in my shop couple years. I noticed the kill switch was very finicky when going to run and off. Barely touch it and it shuts off even with vibrations of the engine. I put some tape to hold it on run and bike did not shut off. Hope thia helps and you figure out the issue.

Hey man ! Did you solve the problem ? I have the same issue on my virago 535, few more ideas to try but almost running out of solution pretty soon ! Have a nice day !

Good day Sir. I need some help on my project Virago 535 I don't have the OEM wiring harness. Would it be possible for me to ask you to point out each pin connections on the TCI/CDI? Like which pin goes to where... like pulser/ pick up coils, ignition coils, 12v positive and ground? I'm planning on simplifying the ignition system. No side stand, clutch or fuel pump switches. I have the same TCI/CDI as you. Thanks in advance! More power to you.

The connectors on my bike are also green and I’ve been wondering if this might be the issue of not charging the battery..

have you sorted out the problem yet? i have an 87xv535 with the exact exact same issue. so far ive replaced both coils. taken it to an electrician says the TCI is fine. replaced both spark plugs with premium expensive ones, made sure they had the correct gap according to the manual. ive had compression tests done, carbs fully rebuild with every peice brand new also new floats. all the ohms tests for each wire exct exct. and even replaced the rectifer runs great for an hour or so on both cylinders then after about an hour or so the front cylinder will stop working ill stop the big to try and diagnose the problem leave it off for about an hour turn it back on then the front cylinder works again. idk what the hell is going on .....

That sounds terrible ! almost like the ignition firing points are all wrong or the engine is running in reverse . Looks like some of the capacitors are bulging slightly at the tops ? Thats a common failure fault on computer power supply circuit boards . What you could do with is some additional parts to substitute ....very frustrating.

Oz Braid Used Yamaha Virago

Sorry for the spam mate... How you manage to get your carbs out? Do I have to drop the engine a little? I wanna clean them rigorously but can manage it with the carbs in and can't manage how to get them out without dropping the engine a little...

Have you checked the valve clearance

It looked to me like the ic's were burnt.

Hello, do you have the ignition connection diagram of my yamaha virago xv 535 motorcycle? My motorcycle turns on from the ignition switch, but does not turn off. Even if I turn the key off, the motorcycle continues to run. There is an error in the link. Can you help?

Had the same problem. Did you check for a broken carb manifold o ring

Mannnnn I'm having the same goddamn problem with my Yamaha virago 400... Do you solved the problem? I checked everything on mine and everything looks fine, sometimes it works for an hour or less fine then the front cylinder stop working... I heat the TCI with a hair dryer and the bike worked fine 1 day... Been looking for TCI replacements but all I get are yamaha virago 750 and 1100 TCI'S and for some reason they doesn't work fine even if they look exactly the same as the 400TCI, under 3k revs the bike works fine but after that it starts backfiring with the big virago's TCI... With the original TCI the front cylinder woks sometimes and sometimes dies at all... The only thing that has worked is putting a LOT of heat on the TCI and it will only work fine 1 day... Plus here in Costa Rica I can't find anything for a Yamaha virago 400 and getting a replacement TCI for this virago in specific is almost imposible here

Did you resolve this issue?

A used Yamaha Virago 400 needs electronic