Amazing video! Sadly watching cause I sent my max to a shop to get fork seals done and it came back clunking BADLY on recoil top. Maybe they didn’t install the preload spring on the valve.
I don't remember the size but want to say 2.125". Just get some that fits as tight as possible over the tubing and then it can be sanded down on the outside if it's too large to slide inside the upper portion of the fork leg.
Are you the same Sean Morley that helped my friend Mike with his one bad carb, think it's an 86 VMAX ? He said to look you up on face book if that's you ? Could not find you among all the Sean Morleys ?!?!?!
Great Video! After watching it the replacement was very easy. But unfortunately the leak in one side started again short after and became really bad. The other side start leaking a little after 2-3 months. I tried to use the Seal Mate tool but it did not help at all. Any suggestion?
Make sure to use OEM seals and you need to check the tubes for any nicks or sharp edges. Small nicks after usually ok if you file down any high points to prevent the seals from further damage
I've installed Hyperpro fork springs on my Vmax, and the manual that came with the forks said I had to fill to 24cm. You say it's about 12 cm. That is quite the difference... So which one is it really?
Keep in mind the early forks use a different qty then later forks. The measurement method that I use of 123 mm with forks compressed and no springs and spacers has always worked well for both sets of years.
More oil decreases the air cushion area though that is a minimal affect. Too much though will hydrolock the forks and blow the seals. Too low and it can cause bushing wear from lack of lubrication but that's usually when you're really low.
@@omfgwtfbbq90 I would use the stock oil level measurement but not the stock quantity measurement. The thicker springs will display some more oil so the quantity is going to be less. But the level height is going to stay the same. You could use slightly less to compensate but it's going to be more important to have the same on both sides
The factory springs needed air to compensate for the low spring weight rating (about .37). The air is a crutch that is determinental to the overall function of the forks. Going with the stronger springs (either Racetech, Progressive as seen here, or a few other brands) will get much better function. Thus we do not use air. On the 85-92 forks we even eliminate the air crossover tube and weld the holes closed.
Sean Morley thank you for your time, but one more question. I just discovered this wierd line that is attached to two couplings at the top of the forks that is making it very hard to remove. Mines is a 1985.how in the hell do you remove them ?and also i Have a Schrader valve on one of the forks too does air or nitrogen go in it? Thousand thanks bud
Air was a crutch for far too soft on the factory springs. Once you convert to an aftermarket spring with higher tension you no longer need the air crutch. Air is the enemy of the fluid because it aerates and puts bubbles in the fluid and therefore makes it less effective. Plus air is compressible while fluid is not.
Look for Nick's or deep scratches on the seal travel area. Did you replace the upper fork bushings? If they are worn the tube isn't held in there very stable
I am disassemble it again and check. By the way, do you know what is the part number for the upper fork bushing? I don't see it as being sold on the Fork assembly image.
