Thank you. Very useful video. I watched a couple of others and notice people remove the spark plugs for this procedure. Is this just so that the engine can turn more freely?
Removing the plugs is done so its easier to turn over the engine but at the risk off dropping something into the cylinder then makes an nightmare. So I just leave the plugs in as safer and doesn't really alter turning it over
Good vid. A few questions; 1. Do you know if the same procedure applies to 1994 XJR1200? 2. After changing the shim, shouldn't you rotate the crank at least 10 times before measuring clearance (for an accurate reading)? 3. Where do you get the special tool from? Cheers
The special tool came from ebay if I remember correctly. They about £10 if memory serves me right. I would imagine the same process would apply to the 1200 as it does to the 1300 but I've not done a 1200 yet. I would assume so but quick Google search or check in a workshop manual would probably answer that definatly. You can rotate the engine 10 times if you want to but if they shims isn't seated properly after a couple revolutions then it probably won't be after 10 revolutions. Best thing is fit it. Rotate it a time or 2 then re measure the gap to make sure its right. I always re please the whole lot after I've done them all to double check too
Mark Wright it my local Yamaha dealer I had to order the sizes I needed but I am aware some dealers do an exchange service on shims if they have them in stock at a cheaper price
Mark Wright yeh I’ll probably be doing s couple more in the next couple months. Bikes probably going to need the clutch looking at and it also needs the HT leads replacing too
It varies a little but if they are just mildly out off spec then they can create rough idol and loose top end power. If they are out buy quite alot it can cause quite big problems from worn valve seats and lack off compression if the valves aren't closing correctly or can cause just bad running off the engine as valves aren't opening alot. Normaly they get noisy and can hear the tapits if they have excessive wear
nice work. do the exhaust valve and intake valve hit each other since they are both compressed? i bent some valves using the hold down tool, i heard the valves hit when i turned the cams to release the hold down tool, a leak down confirmed the damaged valves. i had turned the cam only far enough to remove the shim. any ideas?
I’m due to do this adjustment soon and this comment has me puzzled as to why you had both inlet and exhaust valves held down at same time? Anyone explain?
If you’re not good with tools and engines I wouldn’t be attempting this job because it’s easy to do it wrong and make contact with the valves with pistons and bend them slightly. There’s another video somewhere where a guy tried to do this and bent a few valves and ended up paying through the nose for new valves and a garage to put right his mistakes
I do this for a living so I'd say I'm quite good with tools. It's not hard to get right if you have a basic knowledge off the internal mechanics off an engine. It would be pretty hard for the valves to hit the pistons as this video shows the timing isn't altered at all so the crank to cams relationship stays the same. So the shim would have to be huge to make it open the valve far enough to collid with the piston when it's not on the cam lobe. Ultimately if you don't know what your doing, understand the principles off it or can't understand the manual then dont attempt it. Especially on a bike
@@mr_mon-eye wanted to know if you are using a 4 degree ignition advancer (common mod on XJR) wondering the valve setting gets affected. I have 99 xjr and is about to set the valves and found your video very helpful.
@@ebinmoothedam ah see what you mean now. No this one had the standard timing wheel on it unless its been changed before me but looked like the factory item. Having a 4° advanced wouldn't alter the process of checking the shims
