This worked perfectly for me, and allowed me to fix my screen that's been broken for almost 8 years. THANK YOU for your smol sacrifice in taking the time to make this video!!
Almost did what this video was proposing, but after some more research I learned that adjusting the contrast could solve the problem. Just turned the contrast knob on the back and voila!
Yes, please do try this first. Adjusting the contrast knob only worked for about 1 year for me, then no longer helped. If using the knob helps, this may repair may still be in your future. Thanks.
Thanks for this great video, it encouraged me to fix my YPG-625 finally and it wasn’t too hard, just time consuming dealing with all the screws. Some tips: 1. There are two sizes of screws to keep track of, and you’ll need a bit extender if you use a power screwdriver. 2. There are two panels on the underside that also have to be unscrewed and removed because there are more screws behind them! 3. I bought a new screen instead of trying to put clips on the old one. The way the cables are attached looks a bit different so maybe it won’t develop the same problems. 4. If you replace the screen, you will need a soldering iron, because there are two wires that you need to connect (good thing it’s only two). 5. If you need to unplug ribbon cables, keep track of which side of the cable is which (I marked it with a sharpie), and when reconnecting them be careful not to kink the cable or damage any contacts. UPDATE: A couple of weeks after making this repair although the piano keys still worked, most of the other buttons stopped working right, they would do random wrong things - only the volume control and instrument selecting dial still worked. Either something I did broke it or it was the next thing due to go wrong. Luckily I gave it away to someone who has kids who just wanted a piano to play around on, it could still do that.
Great advice, thanks for sharing. I'm glad this video helped you! This piano is approximately a 2005 vintage so many things may be different depending on your particular build.
thanks for the great vid. crystal clear, no background noise and good humour! excited to be embarking on the DGx 620 that i was given yesterday with my extended drill bits and bulldog clips! Loved the vid.
I don't think these pianos were made to be moved a bunch. After my third or 4th move, I started to have these issues and I always figured it was a loose connection because I would apply a bit of pressure on the screen and it would start to work again.... until that fix no longer worked. Thanks so much for sharing and for the hilarious details!
The screen on my YPG-625 would work sometimes and not at other times, it was just unpredictable - even though I never moved it. It’s possible it was being affected by temperature or humidity.
Thank you so much! I followed the directions on my DGX-620 and it worked! So pleased. Just wish I could have shown my mother! I used pieces of credit card as I did it before reading the comments. I’ll discard them if the clips slip off. Great video!
Glad it helped. The card was just something I did thinking it would help when I first did this and it ended up slipping off a week after I made the video. I later did it with just the clip (and maybe still some electrical tape?) and it has held ever since.
The snippy clippy part was a little tricky due to lack of space and was scared to pinch the back of the connector but worked fine in the end. Very nice 3$ repair and great video!
After watching numerous videos, yours did the trick! I couldn't believe it! I think the addition of the credit card plus two, instead of one, binder clips did it. Thanks a million!
My guy w the wit, and the knowledge. You're doing an incredible job my friend. Really super helpful when I got this at goodwill for fifty and saw the screen didn't work. You're a true actual gangster. And you made me laugh. Love ya
Worked perfectly. Just a note the DGX 520 model is alittle different. You actually dont have to remove the top board at all the bands for the screen are flipped so easily accessible. But there are more screws due to 2 pieces of faux wood covering the speakers on the back. MAYBE a 10 minute job. Just be careful with ribbons, i actually bought my board sight unseen (like a dummy) and dude lied and said screen worked but it didnt and you saved me 💰💰💲💲
My YPG-625 also has the two pieces of “wood” on the underside, which have to be removed to get at more screws. And yes the ribbon cables are easy to damage when plugging them back in if you aren’t careful; I kinked one and almost ruined a contact on it.
Thanks! The 535 model is a little different. No orange thing, lol. For me, I just gently shifted the ribbon cable connected to the screen until the screen worked (no more lines) and then taped it in place. So far it's working good as new!
Seriously dude, put the donate button for tips! I didn’t try it yet but I was about to buy a screen lcd replacement 90$, maybe it won’t be enough for me but at least I gonna try now that I know how to do it. Even if I’m an electrician I’ve not been able to find this solution. Thanks for All !
@@jspianoman07 😅 I have here in front of me the keyboard unmounted, I’ve pushed the point you showed in the video and also all the others but it still stay half blue half white or all blue it depends by the time, I guess it wasn’t a connection problem. anyway it worth the try. Thanks again tough ;-)
This worked for me too, for a while. Eventually the problem came back and so I ordered a $60 replacement screen from China, installed it and have a hopefully permanent fix.
this is great! almost got the screen back to normal but seems there's more damage than your case so this fix worked for me I would say 70% (screen is readable but has lots of vertical lines). Still way better than dead screen. Thank you!
I have a YPG-535 stored away at my grandmother's house, and I'm going to be getting a hold of it next weekendnow that I've made space in my apartment. I know it has a screen issue and it looks the exact same as your screen did at the start of the video. I'm going to try this out when I receive it, and see if it fixes the problem.
Best of luck. As I replied to some other commenters, the addition of the credit card clippings are not required. When I first made the video, the clips soon after popped off. I was able to do it with just the binder clips and tape and it has held fine now.
I attempted this on my YPG-635 and destroyed it. Had to throw it away. Maybe I'm just not good with my hands or something, but the guy in the video makes it look a lot easier than was my experience. Just wanted to put that warning out there for others thinking about trying it.
Sorry that it didn't work out for you. Of course anyone reading or watching should make a reasonable guess at how confident you are with being able to do this. Probably not a beginner project.
@@jspianoman07 No problem. I'm not blaming you at all. Truth be told I was in the market for a new piano anyway so I went into it willing to throw out the unit if it didn't work out. Not a big loss for me. I just wanted to let others know that there is a risk to doing this. You make it look easy!
I rate this project a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty scale for someone who is used to tinkering and fixing stuff. But even for someone who fixes electronics all day, I think there’s still a risk that clamping the cables could simply not work or make things worse - just because of what they are.
Have not got a clue what your doing with the cards, and what the purpose is, because screen was fixed just tightening connection , SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN
The card is not necessary. I originally added it because I thought it would help the clip press down on a wider surface area of the ribbon cable. What I found is that the card ended up causing the clip to slip off after I had put it all back together. You can accomplish the same thing and with more reliable results without the card. This video was just from my first attempt at this repair.
@@jspianoman07 I had the same question. I'll have to look at the video again and again.... needs narration explaining the process. I kept pausing the play to read your instructions.
@@RobertHampton747 You only needs the clips to press down onto the connection. The cards are not needed. I used them in my initial attempt to repair it and later found them to be unnecessary.
Hello, I have the YPG-635 model. On some days, the screen works fine and on other the days, the screen stops working. But it has been working good for most days. Did you have this experience before the screen stopped working completely? I'm debating if I should try the paperclip binder now or if I should wait until the screen stops working completely. Thanks for the video!
It would go in and out for about a year or two. I could sometimes get it to work by smacking the screen hard with my hand. Then it finally totally went out. If it is going in and out, it will eventually completely go out, but it may take some time.
The clamps push down on the ribbon cable which helps the two metal surfaces make better contact with eachother (meaning making a more solid connection). This usually fixes the screen issue because the lack of a good connection is typically what causes the problem in the first place. Based on feedback I have seen on my video, this doesn't work for 100% of cases, but does seem to help most people. This is a known problem with the YPG series Yamahas. I have no idea if it applies to an "mm6."
I’ve got my DGX620 open and I’m at the Dollar Store right now buying those big paper clips and electrical tape…just trying to make sense of what you did exactly? And do the clips stay there when you close it back up?
The clips are just clamping down on the ribbon cable to keep firm pressure on the contacts. The electrical tape is just to act as a dielectric to prevent anything from shorting out (the tape probably isn't even needed honestly, but I did it just to be safe and ensure nothing electrical would short out where it was clipped). For example, just think of it like if you have something plugged into the wall, like a lamp, but the plug is loose so it keeps falling out of the wall, the lamp goes off (like your piano goes off). Say you stand there and hold the plug in the wall to stop it from falling out, thus constantly applying a force to hold it in place (like a clip holding the ribbon cable down) then it will stay on and work. We use a clip so that it will keep applying that force even when we close it back up. Simple as that. Side note, the credit card is not needed at all, I removed it later on when it proved to work without it. Yes, you want everything to stay in place when you close it back up, that's the idea. If it doesn't, it likely will not stay fixed. This was a complete experiment on my part that worked for me, hope it works out for you as well. I think some others here in the comments have indicated it worked for them as well.
@@jspianoman07 thanks. I’m holding the screen in my hand as I type this….my clips might be too big but I’ll find out in a couple minutes. Thanks again.
@@murphine969 Sure thing. Be warned, getting the clip in was tricky because it barely fit and kept falling/springing itself off. You will eventually get it if you keep at it, assuming it's just not outright too large. You do want to check that it actually fixed the problem before screwing everything back together, else you're taking a big gamble.
I might try this, I’m curious though, why does this happen to these pianos? Is it really common or is it because electricity or something? I wanna know if it was my fault.
It's not your fault. It is a known and documented design flaw with these older Yamaha pianos. It has nothing to do with the electricity and highly unlikely that anything you did brought it on. The ribbon cable in the paticular spot appears to be held on by an adhesive and my theory is that it simply loses its strength over the years and comes lose. Kid of like how if you tape something on your wall, eventually the tape comes lose and ot falls.
Same thing happened to mine when I had it. I ended up selling mine. I kinda had a feeling it had something to do with a connection. Dude at the music store tried to say that wasn't it. I should have trusted my feelings.
Yes, plays fine with the screen broken. You can still change the voices and use any of the functions, just can't see anything on the screen. The fix will be easy in difficulty for someone who is comfortable with a screwdriver and has taken things apart before, probably moderate difficulty for someone who has not.
Didn't work for me I've got a DGX640, it's slightly different inside and there's not enough space inside for larger clips I did apply a little pressure in different places to the thin ribbons and the screen came on! And off Half on Covered in lines Thanks for the vid I'll keep trying different things
Sorry to hear that. Sounds like it is a similar issue though. You may have to experiment with different ways to clamp down on the cable. I hope you figure it out. Thanks for the feedback.
I'm just gonna get a new screen from flea Bay, it's only 2 wires to solder on, after opening the keyboard up once I'm not feared about it.... Everyone should definitely try this fix first, when you start playing around with the ribbon cables the problem becomes apparent
Just tried this. So far only half of my screen came back but maybe I just need to move the clips around a bit. Also, I’m not sure why I was supposed to remove the speaker cable so I didn’t, maybe that’s what I need to do? Thank you anyway though, half a screen is better than no screen.
Removing the speaker cable is optional, just makes it easier to get the top part out of the way so you can maneuver more easily. For me, wiggling the clips around eventually gets the connection to make up properly, but I suppose this may not work for 100% of cases.
Ultimately it comes down to the electrical connections. They are making poor contact so the screen is no longer getting good data which results in jumbled lines. By applying a constant force to them (clamping them down) you are ensuring that the electrical connections stays solid which makes your screen work properly.
I'm trying to do this with a YAMAHA DGX-520,which I got for a song because the screen was dead. I figured it would just output midi like every other keyboard but NOPE! Anyone with my keyboard know how to guide me like a blind man to midi out on my screenless keyboard? PLEEEEAZE?
I just did this and accidentally tore one of the flex cables when the clip popped off. Now the E and Bb keys across the whole board are unresponsive. Be careful if you do this!
Sorry to hear about this, yes, there are risks associated with this repair. To anyone reading, please use your best personal judgment when deciding if you are capable of this work or not! It worked fine for me.
Hi, can someone help me please. My display is working except it is dim. I think the back light is gone. I blinked and came back and went dim again. However, I opened the casing and one of the flat ribbons came off. I accidentally pushed it without realising the bare wire were not sealed in the plastic and all bent. I straightened them but they are so sensitive that when I push them in , I think they touch each other and nothing works except the piano and the large dial that changes the voices. I pulled it out and in again and some of the buttons worked and went off again. I ordered new flat cables but I they have not arrived yet. I like to know if anyone had a similar problem? I am not sure if anything is damaged.
Did you try to turn the contrast knob on the back of the piano? If the screen is readable but dim or washed out, maybe that’s all that’s needed. Re. cables, I almost caused the same damage when reconnecting the flat cables. You have to be very careful.
I don’t think so, it is a very small connector with many surface contacts extremely close together. If it’s possible at all you would need to be an expert solderer and use a magnifying glass, and have VERY steady hands.
jspianoman07 explica que el problema en la pantalla se debe a una malaa conexion. Te dice que desarmes con el keyboard desconectado a la corriente. Luego localiza el area que te ilustra y vuelve a conectar el piano a la corriente y luego haz una pequeña fuerza con la mano en el area que ilustro al principio. Si la pantalla revive ya sabes que ese es el problema. Luego lo que el hace es poner unos clips o sujetadores a la conexion que sustituye la fuerza que hiciste con la mano en la prueba. En el clip, jspianoman07 coloca tape, aparentemente electrico y unos pedazos de tarjeta de credito de manera de provocar mas presion en el area. Sin embargo, jspianoman07 le contesto a otros usuarion que el tape no era necesario, que en realidad era contra producente posque facilitaba que el clip se deslizara y que tuvieran en consideracion que el video fue hecho a su primer intento de reparacion. Es decir, omite lo de la tarjeta de credito. Espero que lo que te traducido te sirva de ayuda. Suerte con la reparacion.
