Owen, our packing gland dripped much like yours resulting in a very wet bilge. I was hesitant to tighten it not knowing the condition of the packing but I should have. I did finally tear it down (had plenty of packing), inspected, cleaned and repacked. I have only done this once so no expert but I am very happy with the result. My finding is, yes it is possible to have a packing gland that only drips once a minute while underway and not at all when the shaft is not rotating. I also reassembled without tools (I cleaned the threads with scottsbright pads), as the retaining nut doesn't need to be locked down with a tool, just my hands can do the job. We have good access so I am able to time drips and feel for heat build up ( maybe every 50 seconds and the gland isn't hot nor cold = lukewarm best describes it). The engine is a Yanmar 3 cylinder 35 typically tuning the 1 1/4" shaft at 1000rpm (2.8 reduction gear box), basiclly three of what you have in a row. Enjoy your clips, keep them coming. Dan S/V Drifter
I'll be tweaking that gland more when I re-install the engine. With this boat I don't have easy access to see or get a temp reading, so I intentionally left it loose. But I also hope to haul the boat this year to replace the packing altogether (among other jobs).
Owen and Crew, My advice would be to have it bored, new piston, lap or grind the valves, check, valve guides, check bearing clearances, all new seals, etc... Do everything while the motor is out. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, find the best machine shop to inspect, assess and do the work (might be in Seattle). Research and ask around to find the best shop! You will regret it if you don't make it the best you can now! Also, take this opportunity to clean-up, paint, inspect, etc... the engine compartment while you have access. Hopefully, someone with more experience can comment on how you can minimize the calcification? Perhaps occasional flushes with vinegar or a citrus fluid? Now would be the time to install any 3-way valves, etc... need to do this.
Sound advice! If I were a more meticulous person with deep pockets this is likely the way I'd go. I'll be doing some work in the engine compartment prior to re-installation.
Other than doing it on the water, what could be better than turning a few wrenches and learning a lot with your lad? And all with some nice kit around you. That look sublime to these eyes! Thank you for sharing, I am learning a lot.
Early8Q, I'm happy to hear someone gets something out of this besides me. LOL. I should point out that the shop is not mine, just magnanimously offered for this work by a generous friend.
Thanks for the great video. I wish I had the place to do this type of work. I am relying on Zimmerman Marine to prep the boat for this coming season. The 1GM in my CD25D was rebuilt in 2017. Not sure to what degree it was rebuilt, but am hopeful that it is OK. It runs great! There was a lot of water in the pan under the engine and I found that it was the tiller area that is leaking from the topside. But the water sitting under the engine for extended time by the previous owner rotted out two oil lines. I will replace them when I change the oil in the spring. I got new lines from a fellow in the UK. They are made of cuprous/nickle and should not rust, but I am concerned about the oil pan. It is crusty rusty. Keep these great videos coming. You are fearless and detailed and I really enjoy your videos. Thanks again.
Hi Jazz Man, thank you for the kind words. A rusty engine pan would bother me too. Better to find out how bad it is now rather than when underway. Fingers crossed for you.
I flushed Seraph's cooling system using a small hot tub recirculating pump. Even as small as it is, it's flow rate is 3 times the 1GM's water pump. I let it run for two hours and the stuff that came out was epic. IF I were you I'd consider doing whatever the engine needs NOW, with NOT having to repeat as my main goal. Because of you I know now what the back of Seraph's 1GM looks like. THANKS.. Best wishes Randy "Seraph" CD161 25D
Hey Owen, really enjoyed your videos especially you boat selection and your trip from Anacortes to Astoria. I live in Camas and we bought a Catalina 27 last year. We kept the boat in Olympia because we bought it in Gig Harbor and since we were beginners we weren't ready to sail back to Portland. We looked at all kinds of boats under 30', including the Cape Dory 25D, but after reading John Vigors' book "Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere", we decided on the Cat 27 with an outboard. Part of the reason was we wanted to be able to trailer the boat (we bought a trailer before we even found the right Cat 27 so we could go get it and bring it home) and Vigors recommends an outboard because of far less cost if you have engine problems. I don't have near the mechanical skills that you have. We brought the boat home to Camas last October and we are getting ready to paint the bottom and do other maintenance before we relaunch May 1st. Hope you get to achieve your sailing dreams. Ours aren't as big as yours but we hope to sail the San Juans this summer. Hope to see more of your adventures in the future.
Hey, Owen . . . I agree with an earlier commenter. Also impressed with your knowledge actually. Understand these videos take time. Thank you for producing such helpful content in a down-to-earth manner. Please take your time, as you’re doing. I, for one, enjoy each video.
I realize I’m 2 months late with this comment, but still might be useful. There’s a quick way to evaluate the condition of the cylinder by getting a new set of rings (not too expensive) and putting one of them into the cylinder. Then measure the gap between the ring ends with a feeler gauge. Yanmar can tell you what the maximum allowable gap should be. And that will tell you if you have enough metal left to just hone the cylinder and still get decent compression
Owen, I gotta say I like your style! Beautiful Porsche in the background. My search for a 25D fizzled out but I did recently acquire a tricked out Compac 23D. It’s got the same engine with only about 380 hours on it. Hopefully a lot of life to give. I’m curious how many hours is on your engine. Great videos, I know they are a lot of work and appreciate the honest knowledge share! Best to you in your adventures.
Aren’t diesels sleeved? Or is that just certain ones? Not a diesel mechanic at all. We used to remove glow plugs the same way, loosen them, turn the engine over. Put a big piece of cardboard to prevent the old one from flying across the shop.
Also I don"t know where you have your boat but if the Diesel is going to cost thousands to get fixed you could put a bracket on the boat and buy a used 9-9 4 stroke for $1000 to $1400. and you would be out sailing. I'm pushing my Cat 27 with a 6HP Tohatsu and I can get 6 knots easy. Plus my Cat 27 is 1600 lbs heavier than your boat. Later you could use it as an emergency motor or use it on a dingy which allows you to get to shore without pulling your boat in close.
This is too painful. Too many recipes. You're lost and not humble. What your mill needs now is expertise. Someone who will strip it to zero, mike everything, do proper replacement, paint, reassemble, and merge your motor with a lightweight heat exchanger and proper fluids, which it never had.
