Absolutely great tutorial! Many thanks for giving me the courage to open my cc up for a clean! Question, I've noticed that the advance film winder gets stuck sometimes and I have to give it a flick to make it unstuck. The film counter glass did fall through, I've found it and glued it back (thanks to you for pointing it out) I've given the insides a blow out to remove any broken pieces, but sometimes the winder still gets stuck. Any idea what else could cause this? Thanks again and greetings from Australia 😊
The CC does not use LEDs, but incandescent light bulbs. These do burn out from time to time. The only one which is really important is for the red arrow, which lights up when the light is too much for the maximum shutter speed.
Thanks always for this channel ! If the meter shows the red over arrow, intermitently but rarely the under yellow arrow, the shutters all sound the same and the battery check light doesn't come on... where to start to fix that? The yellow and shutter speeds WERE working, but have now stopped and only the red arrow shows. Hmm Thanks!
Hello good sir. I have a question I hope you can offer some guidance on. I have the 35cc, it's in absolutely excellent condition overall, there's just one slight problem. My battery check light is temperamental. When I press the battery check button, the light will come on, and stay on. It will stay on until either I wind the lever, depress the shutter, or generally just fiddle with the camera. The light will also come on sometimes by itself when I crank the advance lever, depress the shutter, touch/pull up the film rewind knob (even when I haven't touched the battery check button at all). In short, it's finicky and temperamental. I have tried two separate, brand new batteries. If you ask me, I would guess that there's a loose connection somewhere inside. All other functions appear completely normal (though I have yet tested with a roll). Thanks in advance for any guidance or advice you can offer!! -Paul
Thank you for this great video! While shooting with my CC the knob on top of the film winding lever broke off (I'm still not sure how) and the lower part of it is still screwed inside the camera. Unfortunately I can't manage to take it off it so I'm wondering if there is another way of fixing it, any ideas? I know this is not a free repair service but I would appreciate any opinions, at least to know if I should send the camera for service or sell it for parts. Thank you!
Thank you for these videos detailing the different vintage Japanese cameras. I really like your visits to the camera shops. I hope you don't mind a question. I have a CC that the markings on the right side of the view finder are missing. I can also see the red and yellow lightbulbs at the top of the view finder. Is there a chance some of the mirrors have shifted causing these problems?
There is a small cover that is glued over the lamps, it is common for this cover to come off and find its way into the viewfinder, you have to remove the top cover and glue it back into place.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Hi, thanks for the reply. I watched your video again and this is exactly what happened. All fixed now. Thank you for the great series.
Hj there, great video. I have a electro 35cc and I have to push the shutter button all the way down to get it to fire. It hasn’t always been like this but maybe it has steadily deteriorated and not knowing what it was meant to be like I probably thought it was normal. I read somewhere that there is a post at the bottom of the camera which you can turn which affects the travel of the button before it will fire, but i wasn’t confident enough to play with it and didn’t have the right type of screwdriver. It sounds (from your video) like the bit of plastic which sits underneath the shutter button might have come off but i’m not sure how that would have happened as i have never taken the top plate off. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Regards Jake
I thought I was being careful, but I lost the plastic plunger inside the shutter button while reassembling. Any ideas for an alternative or replacement, short of buying a parts body?
The plunger acts as a spacer as well as a place for the end of the cable release to press. You can glue a 1.5mm spacer to the bottom of the shutter button, then the camera will work, but you won’t be able to use a cable release. You’ll probably find the plunger when you aren’t looking for it, which is when I usually find lost parts.
Great video! Need your help though: the focusing ring on my ccn moved stiffly when arrived. After about 100 more turns and twists, it started to get even stiffer and with more of a grinding feel to it. When I applied a bit more force to move it a few more times (regrettably so), the focusing got stuck and the ring now moves freely, though not within its full range, and with a terrible squeaky sound. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
And by the way, your channel is the reason why I grew fond of the ccn camera and purchased one. It’s overall condition is great, the only problem is the focusing ring. Really looking forward to taking some photos with it!
@@skamillion1018 These can stick, and getting inside the camera is very hard. One solution which often works is to heat up the camera with a hair dryer until it is hot to the touch. This will soften the grease in the focus helicoid enough that turning the focusing ring will unstick whatever debris is causing the problem.
More than likely someone removed the wire at an earlier time. You can probably find the end of the wire under the rangefinder and patch in a new one if you need to use the flash.
What type of oil are you using for the helicoid? Also, do you know if the yellow color from the deterioration of the thorium cleans off? I think this may be why my CCN seems to produce a yellow color cast.
You can remove the yellowing by opening the rear film door and exposing the rear element to sunlight, it takes a few days to clear it out. You can also use a UV lamp to do the job.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 I have an issue with the light metre. Battery check lamp works, however the light metre arrows do not seem to work anymore. They do sometimes, but very rarely. Wiring seems to be fine i.e no corrosion or breaks, pod I'm not sure since I can't see, but can hear a Yashica thud so assuming it's ok. I was hoping you could point me in the right direction on how to fix this issue. Thanks in advance
Hi, I have a 35CC which appeared to work initially but now it seems it fires at a constant shutter speed regardless of meter/settings. I opened it up to access the contacts and POD (which was corroded). I cleaned the contacts but did not add a new pad since I think in this model it does not affect shutter speed selection. I then went into the lens as in this video to access the electronics there. From my understanding the electromagnet is not keeping the shutter open so I measured ohms on the coil (gives around 130) to verify it is not broken. I then measured voltage while keeping the shutter button pressed almost fully and I see 4.8v. Is that correct or should I be getting full battery voltage? My battery is at 5.7v but maybe the voltage drops too low when the magnet demands current and does not get to work. Do you think that could be the issue? Otherwise, any idea what to check? The arrows and battery check all work OK.
Hello there, sorry I had to barge in, and not have any info to help you with your question. Hope your camera is okay now. But if I could ask you one thing, will the POD be a problem for me later in the future? I have recently picked up the electro 35cc and just found out about the POD issue. If so, I think it's best for me to just send to the workshops if anything were happen to it since I have never done this before.
@@farismental Actually I couldn't make my camera work. I think the solenoid crapped out. Regarding your question: I do not think this camera suffers from POD. It only provides a cushion to a metal part which may dampen the sound once you advance the frame. But IMHO it cannot cause the same issue as in other cameras, so I wouldn't worry.
I also have a cc with severe battery corrosion. To the point that the negative terminal tab and one of the white wires got disconnected (the one that goes down towards the lens. Is this wire the lead that comes frome the trl meter? I tried to patch solder it but it got shorter and shorter, and now I need to get deeper into the camera.
i have a yashica electro 35 gx. and there’s a wire that’s suppose to be connected to the flash port but i received the camera with the wire ripped off on one end. any clue where it’s suppose to be soldered to?
