I just picked one up at a yard sale for $25 that is in pristine condition and actually works. Gentlemen who sold it to me said he originally bought it at K-mart for $60 in the ‘70s. They were quite popular…right up there with the Olympus Trip 35. Thanks for the video, it was immensely helpful.
These are fascinating cameras. I seriously considered one of these as my first 35 mm film camera many years ago but I decided on a 35 mm film SLR instead (Nikon FM) which I still have and dearly love. But when these were being manufactured I always thought these were well made cameras with excellent lenses and always regretted somewhat that I never bought one. My sister had one of these and loved it. Great informative video.
The first time I handled one of these cameras, it was in a "junk" bin at a local thrift store. I picked it up, and looked at it, and though the design was a little odd-looking to me, it had a feel of quality to it. The price was only 500 yen, or about $5. I bought it, managed to get it working, and I still have it. These are greatly underrated cameras, the meter system is indeed odd, but it was far more accurate than what you could find in any other rangefinder camera of the day.
My son (13) picked up a Yashica Electro 35 (Not GSN) about 4 years ago at a shop for $5 because he liked how it looked. It came with a case and had never had a battery in it. The sticker was still on the inside. We recently got a proper battery for it and fired it up and are learning how to use it. It's amazing to have a virtually new camera from 1966! Thanks for the info, I hope you do some cleaning and repair videos as I would like to clean the view finder. Take care!
I bought one about a year ago advertised as "in perfect working order". For my own peace of mind I took it for a CLA before I even used it. The light seals were toast and the (notorious) 'pad of death' was, er, dead. Also, unless you have excellent eyesight, the small focusing diamond in the viewfinder is very difficult to use. My recommendation is don't bother. They're more trouble than they're worth - buy something else.
Hi Japan Vintage Camera. Nice video explaining the camera. I'm a beginner in film photography and I have been looking to get a better film camera and recently found one of these available online where I stay, for about 75$. Looking at the pictures the seller has uploaded, it looks like a well maintained unit, and the description says it is in working condition as well. There are two points I noticed from the pictures. One: Lens cover is missing in the pictures (Hopefully it isn't missing or I should be able to find one if it is indeed. Minor issue.) Two: There is no "made in xyz" stamping on the bottom in the pictures. The bottom is plain. If I decide to buy it, how do I check that the camera is as good as advertised and functions correctly to avoid being duped? It is already difficult to get the necessary spares, etc. in India based on my experience. I have recently started shooting film using a Hotshot 35UF (Indian brand from the 80s) point and shoot camera that belonged to my grandfather, a very ordinary camera but with priceless sentimental value to me. I got it serviced locally and shot and got my first roll developed last month. I got some decent pictures very much reminding me of the 90s. I'd love to continue exploring this medium and your opinion will be very valuable indeed.
There are millions of these cameras produced in 60s, 70s, 80s. Most iconic and copied version of yaschica cameras is electro 35. So, you cant easily understand which one is older or young, even where it is made.. I bought two of them... dont think so much, copy or original both are good, elder or younger are ok, just buy one immediately
It sounded attractive, until I heard what I usually fear with electronically enhanced film cameras from 60s 70s 80s and 90s, they are just unreliable. I own a Yashica YL35 and owned Konica SIII (gifted it to a very good friend of mine) and I very much enjoy fully mechanical cameras. The fear of having something as important as shutter tk malfunction due to unreliability of 20th century electronics is something that eliminates pleasure of film for me. It also pushes me to use very old cameras from 50s, which I very much enjoy. I wish everyone reliable operation of their cameras!
Some cameras are more reliable than others, there are certain mechanical cameras which are also troublesome. Usually the later cameras in a series are more reliable than the earlier ones, as the have gotten the bugs more worked out. The GS and GSN are more reliable than the original Electro 35.
tbh i wanted to get something with like full manual and i thought the electro 35 was one. idk if i made a mistake buying this instead of something like the Minolta Hi-Matic 9 or 11. Especially since the shutter speed for this maxes out at 1/250 :(
Hello, i’d really like to buy this camera but the only one i found used is about 90$ Is this still a good price for this camera? And will it keep its price? I will resell it one day to buy a medium format camera.
Japan Vintage This video is out for 4 months and you’re replying to every message in hours. You’re amazing. Thanks for the quick response. It’s in very good condition, no scratches, no dents. I’ll be buying it tomorrow!
If you want perfect exposures, the GSN is better than the Canon 7 or Canon P. But if you like to be able to use different lenses, or have more creative control over your photos, the 7 or the P are better cameras.
There’s a lot of manual rangefinders, a lot of automatic rangefinders, plenty of shutter priority rangefinders, but very few with aperture priority. I think that aperture priority gives the best compromise between creative control and automation. I need on of these!
It is not aperture priority but it has only a time about 1/30 so... You have to set the aperture at he right value with the inner light meter arrows. In my opinion it is one of the worst camera that I've purchased. The film loading is so bad. The focusing ring is not at the right place.. my hand take about 2/3 seconds to find it... So.. I have to resell it. Only the lens are nice.
@@flavioserci6046 Hello! Aperture priority is when you set the aperture and the camera determines the shutter speed, so this camera is aperture priority.
I love the design and build of this camera. It is a simple camera to operate that has only those features necessary for making good photos and nothing else. I particularly like the little well thought out bits of design, such as the shutter lock to prevent accidental exposures.
There are some slight differences, the Hong Kong versions have a slightly different chrome finish, the ASA dial is a little different, and the ring on the front usually says "Lens made in Japan." Internally they are the same.
@@Nearest_Neighbor There are two clues to cameras made in Hong Kong, the first is that the lens name plate will say "Lens Made in Japan." The second clue is that the chrome finish on the Hong Kong cameras is more of satin finish, while the finish on the Japanese cameras is more bright. The serial number on the Hong Kong cameras begins with a letter "H", while with the Japanese cameras there is only a series of numbers.
I bought the GS version for $60 in completely mint condition with the original Yashica briefcase, wide and tele lenses, original Yashica shutter release cable, the other view finder for the wide/tele lenses also a Yashica monopod stick. Absolutely enjoy it, cant wait to get film processed and see the results.
@@aaroncheung5074 At a thrift store... it's interesting because initially the thrift store had a Yashica - 12 which is what I wanted and had only seen. When I arrived at the store they bring out this Yashica Electro GS I asked how much ended up buying both.
My copy is in lovely condition it came with a telephoto and wide angle and viewfinder which is excellent. The seals are renewed but the POD may need attention? I can't do it myself So I will have to ask someone to have a look And clean up the RF glass Could be a nice bill tho!
I bought a Yashica Electro 35 GL, but turning the aperture left and right doesn’t seem to be as easy as you’re doing it here - I’d have to press on the metal thing (similar-looking to the timer metal buttons) in order to move it. Wonder if this is how it’s supposed to work, or if there’s anything the seller isn’t telling me? I can’t find much good content on 35 GLs, hope you could help :(
Hi, can you please tell me how to fix my shutter, when I press the button the shutter opens fully but stays open I have to pull the release catch inside the lens mechanism for it to close but the same thing happens every time it's a yashica electro 35mm
Hello! Im about to purchase one but im pretty unsure about the weight. Does it bother that is so heavy? Ive read about other lighter rangefinders but sadly not with 1.7f :(
I'm looking help to roughly date my camera model. It's says G Yashica Electro 35, the ASA goes to 500 but the lens is standard and NOT the colour coated version and the serial is H018016 So would this be a 1966 or 1967 model?? Any help would be greatly appreciated..
Trying to install a new battery in my gsn and can't get the battery check light to come on. Im using an a32px battery. The camera is in good condition and the battery door is not corroded. Any ideas on what my issue could be??? Thank you for the informative video!
Excellent video very professional presentation of a lovely camera. I have the Electro 35GX model which is similar, but a bit smaller than the GT or GS, do you know if too suffers from the POD.
The GX does not use a POD. But the electrical contacts in the GX can become corroded and cause the shutter to work intermittently. You can clean the contacts somewhat by pushing and holding the winding lever to the far end of its travel, then rapidly pushing the shutter button. It works better if you remove the bottom cover and drip some lighter fluid in the direction of the shutter actuator rod, be careful not to use the tripod spacer or the spring which holds on the battery door.
Japan Vintage Camera I am greatly obliged to you for your advice thank you. These are such lovely cameras, apart from the GXI have the Lynx 14 and an old Minister B in my collection and they are lovely in their own way.
Hello, this is not related to this video but i havent found another way to contact you. A guy near me sells a Mamiya RB 67 for 100€, He sells it as a parts camera because the Focusing System is broken. The bellow of the Focusing system doesnt retract fully into the body, and it looks like its kind of at an angle. Is this something that would be repairable? Im really interested in Medium Format Photography but not in spending 800€+ for a camera.
Just bought the GSN on offer up for $20 dollars I used a chap stick tube and (3) “energizer 357” batteries and aluminum foil for the battery! Thank you Japan Vintage Camera I been watching your videos for two days now lol I will definitely check out your store in hopes you have accessories for the GSN. This GSN is the first camera I own what do you suggest would be a good follow up camera to buy when I decide to “upgrade” Japan Vintage Camera?
This my first camera which cost me $50 including a flash in 1980 . Very very nice camera , very sharp photos and colour . Fantastic everyone can used it without any knowledge about photography .
When I pull the lever to pass the film, the shutter opens and only closes when I take the photo. The shutter remains open for the entire time between the moment I pull the camera lever and take the picture. Do you know how I solve this issue?
The problem could be caused by a few things. The first thing I would do is make sure the battery is good, then I would wind the winding lever and hold it at the end of its travel, and then push the shutter button rapidly many times for 30 seconds, this causes the contacts to rub against each other, and can clean them up. Next I would make sure the POD is in good condition. Lastly, I would remove the front lens element, and with a clean finger (no oil on it), I would press my finger against the shutter blades lightly, just enough to stop them from moving, while winding the film winding lever, this can reset the timing between the shutter and the winder. My video on repairing the Yashica GSN shows how to remove the front lens element.
Thank you very much for your help m @Japan Vintage Camera , resolved the issue, but I identified another problem. The shutter does not open completely when I take the photo, I made a video to demonstrate the problem. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LnZDhlc0FI0.html
yashica electro 35 gsn is a really good camera is you already know a little about camera´s. if you are a beginner it can be a little tricky but you´ll get the hang of it very quick.
The Yashica Electro 35 has the most accurate exposure system, it will give more precise results than the C35 or Hi-Matic 9. Any of the Electro 35 models, so long as they work properly, will perform well. The Hi-Matic 9 has an advantage in that it doesn't need a battery to work. It can be used manually. The C35 is more of a point-and-shoot camera, but will still give better results and resolution than a full-frame digital camera.
Picked one up at a yard sale last summer with the case for $4.00. I'm sure they thought it was broken but, It just needed new light seals and a proper battery and it fired right up and works just fine.
It depends on your location, in some places the battery is easier to find than an adapter. In Tokyo an adapter costs around $20, largely because these cameras are so popular here.
Hi, thank you for the review, very informative! Mine work perfectly after i change the POD except when i use it on bulb mode. The shutter won't shut back after i release the shutter button unless i crank the lever again. Do you know how i gonna fix my gsn?
my dad gave me one and i fell in love with it, your vid was very helpful! i was very surprised that the cam admits a small amout of radiation. very cool detail!
The red light means the exposure reading is higher than the maximum shutter speed on the camera, so it is rather critical that this lamp works. The yellow lamp means the shutter will fire at under 1/30 of a second, but as the camera will take exposures as long as 60 seconds, it will still take a properly exposed photo if you hold the camera steady. I sell these cameras in my store for less than 135 euros.
I was given a Electro 35 and I made the repairs to get it operational, but after testing it with the first roll the images were not sharp. Then I did some work on adjusting the focus using the screw with the cross grooves for different distance settings. The second test roll was also soft in the focus. The lenses are clear. What is the problem? Apparently, there is an infinity adjustment (under the cold shoe) which I did not touch. Could this be a shutter shake problem as I have to press the shutter button down hard to get activation? Thanks.
The GSN usually takes very sharp photos. It is possible that camera shake is making your images soft if you are shooting at smaller apertures, which cause slower shutter speeds. You should use a tripod if you are trying to see how sharp the lens is, if it is sharp on a tripod, then your technique may need work. The lens is sharpest at f/8.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thanks. I am located in Minneapolis MN USA. I have now adjusted the horizontal focus (again) and the now the vertical focus. My POD may have been too thick so I put in a thinner piece. The shutter action now seems to be freer. This not the GSN....if that make any difference. Time for another roll. Many thanks.
There is a screw on top of the wheel, under the screw is the disk with the numbers, and under the disk is a compression washer. Below the washer is the wheel. Turn the wheel all the way to the left until the red mark stops at around the 5 o'clock position, put on the compression washer, it must go around the round part in the center, not get pinched on it, then the disc and screw. Tighten the screw while holding the disk so the number 1000 is lined up with the red mark.
Hello, is it possible for an amateure to remove lens fungus on this camera without destroying it? I found a really good deal on this camera but it has a bit of fungus. Thank you in advance.
Yes, it is possible, but it can be a little tricky. You need to remove the name ring from around the front of the lens. I use a rubber stopper, and remove it by twisting to the left. The front lens elements can be removed with a lens spanner, or a pair of pliers which can be opened wide enough to grasp it. Normally the front lens group comes off together, and you can then clean the back of the lens group easily, then you can clean the inside of the rear lens group by setting the ring on the lens to the B setting, and holding open the lens while depressing the shutter button, you need a battery in the camera to do this. It is possible that when you try to remove the lens group on the front that only the element retaining ring will come off. The front element will fall out easily. To remove the inner lens element, you need to remove its retaining ring with a pointed spanner, there are two holes where the ends of the spanner fit. On the GS and earlier cameras the ring is made of metal, on the GSN it is made of plastic, and can be easily damaged. It is a doable repair if you are patient and careful.
Japan Vintage Camera Thank you for the advice. Wich cleaning solution should I use that does not damage the coating. I don’t know, how the Thorium reacts to different Solutions.
thank you for all the info, ive had one of these for over a year and i didnt use it so not to brake it . but now i know how to repair it ill be out and about with it.
hello , could you please let me know which is the battery replacement that amazon is selling ? sorry but I could not catch what you said being not englsh . thanks daniel
Dude, to be perfectly honest, all you have to do is re-watch the video and you will find out. Yes, you can use the 4LR44 with some compressed foil, as stated by TheEquinoxHD, but I actually purchased the nicely made brass adapter for the 4LR44 battery and my GSN works perfectly with it. The specific battery spoken about in this video (recently released on amazon) is the Excell A32PX, however after doing some further online research, some users of this battery are saying the fit into the camera battery well is very tight.
I got my hands on one and everything seems to be fine except I’m having this bizarre issue first the battery check light was working but the lights for the exposure weren’t working and I read on the internet someone had the same problem but then they flipped the battery around which then fixed the problem so I tried that and it seem to fix the light meter reader lights but for some reason now the battery check light doesn’t appear to be working
The positive side of the battery must point to the battery cap. The contacts in the shutter switch may be dirty. Wind the shutter lever as far as it will go and hold it there, then push the shutter button rapidly, many times, this can help clean off the contacts. You can also remove the bottom cover to the camera and apply a few drops of lighter fluid to the contact area (under the shutter button, near the bottom of the camera), this will clean better, and often solves the problem.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 I have the same problem (no slow/over lights) and noticed that if I wind the lever as far as it can go, and slowly press the shutter button, the slow/over lights will light appropriately. I've tried pushing the button rapidly while in this position, but the issue isn't resolved yet. If I add the lighter fluid, should it go on the rod while the camera is upside down, so that it runs up into the camera?
@@markwilkins6490 If you remove the bottom cover, you will see the bottom of the rod, and you should be able to see the PCB switch as well, this is where you want the lighter fluid to go when you are cleaning up the contacts. Holding the camera upside down helps the fluid run where it needs to go.
