Introduction to the camera and it's functions, this one does not work, shutter button stuck down The top and bottom covers come off for investigation, talk of the pad of death issue, plus lots more...
Sir, you saved my life! I only needed to take the bottom part off to unstuck the shutter button. Thank you!!!!
Месяц назад
hello hope you are well. Final pick one of these up, well two really one had been dropped shutter leafs loose and lens slightly hanging off which is a GSN But! with a fungus free front element which was going to replace the Front element on a Black GTN one which had fungus. Turns out that the GTN front element once soaked in Hydrogen peroxide can up a treat with no track lines. The electronics on the GSN seem to be working just need to have a deeper look into its shutter as all the leaf are out now.
Hello, I don’t know if you are still answering comments but I have no idea whether or not my yashica is working. The shutter button works, but the slide lever will not advance (as if it already has a shot loaded), but every time I press the shutter button I don’t hear anything at all and my slide wont advance. Do I need the battery to fix this? Everything else seems to be in working order.
Hi, yes I am still reading all comments and questions, if I remember correctly the camera should still fire without a battery, pop one in to be on the safe side, if the problem is still there then open the back and gently try to move the sprocket drive and take up spool, has the camera been working before or have you recently acquired it?
@@thephotographersbag I recently acquired it for cheap so I was expecting problems. I'll wait for a battery and if it's not functioning still I'll give it over to my local shop to fix it. Thank you for your diligent replies, it's not everyday a RU-vidr responds to comments on a video that's old.
@@Ruminatee Hi, I try and answer all comments, you are very lucky if you have a local repairer, please keep me posted on your situation, they are wonderful cameras....
When I pull the lever to pass the film, the shutter opens and closes only when I take the photo. The shutter remains open at all times between the moment I pull the camera lever and take the picture. Do you know how to solve this problem?
Hi, the shutter should be closed all the time until you want to take a picture, it should open and then close when you depress the shutter button If it is staying open all the time it will fog the film with light and ruin it, a stuck shutter will require a strip down and investigation into the reason why, might just need a clean or could be a mechanical problem, a cla may be required(clean,lube,adjust), quite an involved process that requires experience and not really a DIY project.. .
Hi, it's a good indication of Pad of Death issues, the lack of clunk when winding on is the main diagnosis, flickering lamps might be a wiring issue, are you having problems?
I have a problem with my yashica mg-1. The shutter blade doesn't want to close automatically until I release the shutter button. Do you know how to solve this? Thank you
Hi, sorry not specifically, I assume the battery is good? That the indicator lights and information in the viewfinder is working? The camera can run very long exposures, 20 seconds is apparently possible You have set the film speed? Try in bright light with the aperture( f stop) set wide open, think it is f2.8 Come back with some answers and we may move forward with solving the issue 😁
Hi, sounds like bad connection somewhere, needs disassembly and further checking of the wiring, a bit of a pain, the shutter sounds stuck and may need cleaning as it should fire.....
Hello! I have a problem with my yashica, I advanced the film too much, and I had to remove the film myself, but if I want to unload the film with the correct way, it's jammed somehow, I'd love some help
Hi If I understand you, the film has all ended up on the take-up spool and is longer connected to the rewind crank on the tip left of the camera You will need a darkbag/ changing bag or a dark space or room it needs to have no light at all alse it will ruin the film Once in the dark, gently open the back and by touch feel to see what has happened, you should be able to gently remove the film by gently pulling on the end at a 35 degree angle to the back, it needs to miss the drive sprockets, you can press the little rewind button on the base of the camera to disengage the sprocket drive if this makes it easier I would then place the film in a dark film cannister, the type the film comes in, not the clear ones but the black ones If you take it to be processed rather than doing your own processing explain to them that the film is not in its light tight cannister but directly in the container, If you need more help, please let me know...
@@thephotographersbag oh thank you! It worked, turns out it was a bit jammed, I really appreciate it! I also want to ask about the films prices and which one do you think is the best for the yashica, because the last time I bought one it was expensive, like 6$ is that the average price?
@@hafsa3889 hey, no worries glad you got it sorted, for colour neg film the cheapest tends to be Fuji C200 or Kodak Colorplus 200, for b+w the Fomapan brand is very good value but I do personally prefer HP5+ as it's what I'm used to, film photography is expensive when compared to digital, you will definitely save cost by processing yourself at home, it's quite simple, and you can scan negs with your phone to start with.....
hello hope you are well. Final pick one of these up, well two really one had been dropped shutter leafs loose and lens slightly hanging off which is a GSN But! with a fungus free front element which was going to replace the Front element on a Black GTN one which had fungus. Turns out that the GTN front element once soaked in Hydrogen peroxide can up a treat with no track lines. The electronics on the GSN seem to be working just need to have a deeper look into its shutter as all the leaf are out now.
Mine isFx 7 ,yashika,and same shutter problem. The loading handle Not move half . Today's demo is fine.we need an expert to handle the job.can you refer somebody in Tamil Nadu,Coimbatore. May be cockroach enter inside for long time. CTC can use for clean and lubricate.
re the beam splitting mirror thats the glass at 45 degrees yellowish in color erm dont touch it! I gave a Lynx 14 beam splitting mirror a clean and wiped the silvering off the glass so now the range finder is Forked... there no patch now in the viewfinder to line up, the only option is to find a replacement. would the mirror from one of these Electro 35 fit? The lynx 14 mirror is about 12mm x 27mm x 1mm thick
Very helpful video 👍🏻 I've also recently got myself a electro 35 GSN and it too has also had abit of a "punch on the nose" do you have any videos available on how to straighten these out? Thanks
Hi, sorry to hear about your camera, careful "tweaking" of the metal bits, disassembly can be awkward, start at the front and only remove the bits needing attention, I have not gone into a Yashica however most of the leaf shutter rangefinders are very similar, have added this issue to my "to make" video list....
Hello Sir! I have a beautiful specimen, Yashica Electro GSN in excellent condition with exception to the shutter. The shutter button depresses fine but it won’t actually trip. It’s mostly silent and the shutter isn’t opening. The film advance seems to work but I don’t hear the click you speak of. Any idea concerning the impotent shutter? Thank you for your informative video.
I don’t know if you’ll reply 3 years after marking this video but I have the same camera and it’s in perfect condition and works beautifully but the film advancer in stuck in the open position and I don’t know to get it back in place.
Hlo sir i have camra i want to fix it that is yashica kyocera MF-2 super and the button which clicl the photo isnt working so what i do can you help me
Hi, start with checking the batteries and connections, clean up any corrosion that is visible, if that does not help then time to strip it apart gently and look for broken electrical connections and internal corrosion caused by battery acid leakage...hope this helps and good luck
hi i hope you can respond as soon as possible. i really love your work and dedication and i was wondering, i've just bought a yashica electro 35 gt and mechanically seems to work perfect. the only major issue is that when im shooting in an intended low light scene, sometimes it exposes correctly taking its time, sometimes it wont, exposing the image to 1/500 of a sec i think, and it seems like one in 5 shots the electronic system functions and the other seems like it has no battery in it. do you know what the problem is? thank you in advance!
Hi, you sorta answered your own question, there is a problem with power delivery, could be a bad battery, corrosion of the terminals, or the wires internally, however if the exposure warning lights are working then it will possibly be the dreaded "Pad of Death" a common problem with these cameras, not an easy DIY fix, videos outlining the issue and repairs both on my channel and loads of other RU-vidrs.....
@@thephotographersbag hi, thank you very much for your response, i've just unscrewed my little toy being pretty sure that was the so called pad of death. however surprisingly i found a crisp new pad of death, do unusual. so im a bit stuck, even in bulb mode sometimes it fires as i press it, sometimes it fires its 1/500 default.
So, don't know if you can help me, I have one of these, I corrected all the mechanical problems and now from aperture 1.7 to 4 the over light always lights on even though the camera is firing slower than 1/500, and on apertures 11 and 16 on low light the camera never finishes the exposure, this last part seems like a leaky timming cap, but the first part I don't have a clue.
Hi, it could be that the lamp is defective but that seems unlikely, has the camera suffered any battery leakage from previous batteries being left in it during storage? Corrosion will travel up through the wiring and cause a lot of problems, sometimes a good clean with some vinegar on a cotton bud,(q tip), otherwise it will need a strupdown to find the problem, not something for the inexperienced! If you have just purchased the camera, you could try contacting the seller for a return, difficult situation.....
@@thephotographersbag Tbh, I have no idea. I got it off ebay, and it didn't come with batteries. I recently purchased a battery + adapter, from Yashica Guy, and it still didn't work. Everything sounds fine though. I will be testing it out Friday to see what happens. I will try the cleaning with vinegar.. if not, might have to take it to get fixed. Thanks!
Hi, it may be corrosion, easily sorted with some fine sanding paper, green corrosion can be removed with a small amount of vinegar and a Qtip or cotton bud, if the spring is not springy enough, some gentle manipulation may so the trick, feel free to come back if still having issues.....
Great video, I've just picked up one of these with the shutter button stuck down. All you had to do to fix it was to push the shutter release down hard?!
Hi, sorry to hear about your issue, is this on a recent purchase? How confident are you are camera disassembly, this will require the top cover to be removed and possibly further disassembly as required If you can live with it and the camera works fine, I would suggest leaving it 😁
@@thephotographersbag first of all thanks for your answer, I really appreciate it. Yeah, it's a recent purchase... it sounds difficult to me, I think I'll try to sell it for pieces (I'm not sure abou this last sentence, I hope you will understand) Regards!
@@AsierBenito Hi, if the problem you described is the only issue the camera has, you could use it and not worry about the frame counter What is your native language?
Hi, this camera does not require a battery, it runs on solar power, my advice would be to put a film through it and seeing what the results are like... hola, esta camara no requiere bateria, funciona con energia solar, mi consejo seria pasarle una pelicula y ver como son los resultados..
Hello. I got myself a GSN in extremely fine condition. Shutters fires and sounds right. There's a fine clunk sound. The yellow arrow and lamp works. But, when testing the red overexposure lamp, by setting iso 1000 and f/1.7 pointing at a strong light source, the red arrow appeared - but when I tried a second time, it did not and now, neither the red lamp or the red arroe in the vievfinder will light up. Could the lamp be blown? There's no corrosion anywhere and everything else seems to work fine. Hope you can guide me. Thanks.
Hi, just carefully wipe the exterior of the camera with a soft cloth first, I use a soft toothbrush to get into the small nooks and crannies to remove loose dust and dirt If required I then use distilled water and a cotton bud (q tip) to gently remove any remaining dirt Clean the lens separately and be very careful not to mark or damage the front and rear elements, the glass bits, these need to be gently cleaned again with the distilled water using a moist but not soaking wet cotton bud You can use metal polish to buff up the chrome bits and a leather polish for the ever ready case, I use neatsfoot oil, it is used for horse saddles etc Whatever you do just take you time and not cause any damage....
Hi, I just bought the camera and I think it has an issue. First of all the over and under led does not work, but this may be a wiring issue. But it seems to me that the shutter does not work accordingly. No matter what film speed, aperture I select, the shutter speed seems to be the same. And that click after i wind the film, it doesn`t exist. Should I go ahead and check it? Thanks,
Hi, did you know these issues when you bought it?, Can you get your money back? It sounds like a dead battery or a wiring issue, combined with the pad of death, neither are easy repairs if you are new to fixing cameras, without power the shutter will always fire at its highest speed if I remember correctly.....
@@thephotographersbag hi. Unfortunately no. I got it from a flea market. The battery seems to be working. At least the battery check bulb is lighting up. The other one is the issue, the one indicating over and under. I shot a film with it and I will take it to development but it seems like it's not working properly.
Hi, it sounds more and more like the Pad of Death issue especially if it is missing the clunk when wound on, it can also affect the metering so I suspect it will need repair, search online for videos of the repair and see what is involved and decide if you feel up to the task, please come back after you see the results of your recent film.....
@@thephotographersbag yea. I'm not that handy with repairing things but I will take it to a repair shop, I think I found some guys and I'll see if they can do it. Anyway, thank you so much for replying to me. I really appreciate it. And keep up the good work
Hi sir, sorry for disturbing you, I hope you feel comfortable with me, I found another old camera of brand Ricoh model Kr 10m, I checked the web but I couldn't get informations, can I get some description about it.
Hi, no problem, the camera is a 35mm single lens reflex launched in 1990, it takes Pentax K mount lenses and is manual focus only It is powered by 4 AA batteries, housed in the camera's grip,and it has motorised film advance and rewind at the end of the film It features aperture priority or manual metering and uses push buttons to change the shutter speed, there is a battery check facility too However it sets the film speed only by DX coding on the film canister, there is no way to manually alter the ASA/ISO, however there is an exposure compensation system covering +/- 4 stops, shutter speeds on auto run between 1/2000 to 30 seconds, but only 16 seconds on the manual setting They are well built and generally reliable, there are loads of km mount lenses available, nice find and quite rare now, however not that desirable, be interested if it is working! Regards, Graham
@@thephotographersbag Thank you So much Sir, it works compleatly alright, only the flash didn't work but anyway will replace,now onwards will follow you (Subscription ).again Thank you 😊
@@thephotographersbag Hi, Graham, today I bought a battery to my Yashica Electro 35GT. The Lamps, advance lever, POD all are fine, But the shutter blades are not opening, kindly please tell me how to fix this problem
Hi, sorry to hear that you are having issues, the main problem area is a thing called the " pad of death" My first thoughts are to excersise the camera by continuously cocking the shutter and firing it, it may just be stuck through lack of use Please read the following article, it will help you diagnose if you have the pad of death issue and how to solve the problem.... elekm.net/pages/cameras/repair_pad_of_death.htm Please keep us posted on how you get on...
Hi, it has an electronically controlled leaf shutter working in aperture priority and so on unfortunately does need a battery to operate, not sure but maybe the flash and bulb modes will work with no power, is it that yours does not work with a good battery?
@@thephotographersbag Yes sir , the bulbs are in good condition ! Tested with a 9v battery, but it is not like yours, it is different (black) but the same model, I don't know why is that different, it is a 1966 model, being inactive for almost 46 years, that's why I need to clarify. Can you can identify what model is it with the stated colour ? And thank you very very much it helped a lot for me.
@@kavinishwar Hi, as you say there are chrome finish ones and black finish ones, the chrome version is the GS, the black is the GT, the second series was named GSN for chrome and GTN for the black version, You have the original Yashica electro 35 by the sound of it, launched in 1966, it should default to a shutter speed of 1/500 th of a second without a battery, ASA/ISO tops out at 400 and it has a 45mm f1.7 lens and it only has a "cold shoe" with PC connection, one of the originals, be interested to know if it works, it used a now banned mercury battery, use a Wien cell (1.35v) or a 1.5 v that fits....following your exploits with interest as I love these cameras...😷
@@thephotographersbag It is very glad to hear sir, I am always keen to know physical priciple and mechanism of a machine, I got it when I was cleaning my store room, It was my Grandfather's camera, he bought it when he toured Japan. But now the black tinch got renoved in some of the areas of the camera, I will post the picture and video of the fully functional camera if possible. Thank you very much Sir 😊😊 love from India
Hi, this is not really the place to sell your camera and people will need a lot more information such as make and model, condition, location and price etc You have a better chance on sites like eBay, Craigslist, Facebook marketplace where you can upload pictures, I take no responsibility if someone decides to buy this camera, it's a deal between you and the poster, not the way to buy or sell a camera, buyer beware!
Hello, I have 2 GSN’s. One is in complete working order and looks great except the lens is peppered with mold. The other one has a couple of issues, but, the lens is crystal clear. How difficult is it to swap out the lenses on these cameras? If too difficult I’ll just take what I need off of the good one and put it on the other camera with a good lens. What are your thoughts? All the best. Jim from Georgia.
Hi, the lenses are reasonably easy to disassemble so I would strip the fungus infected lens and treat the fungus. To get to the rear element open the shutter on B and clean from the front, then reassemble Alternatively take the clear elements from the good lens and swap to the other body, they are great cameras, have you tried shooting with the lens "as is", is the fungus noticeable in the images?
I believe these options are within my abilities to handle. I have not used the camera yet. I will shoot a roll of film first and see how it turns out. Thanks for your help. I really enjoy your videos. See you on the next one.
I am a bit contrarian on the whole "dreaded pad of death". It seems on my camera at least, the only effect is that the shutter won't stay open if you release the shutter button. The practical effect is only that you must hold the button down until the exposure is complete. It is natural and proper technique to hold the shutter anyway - at least up to about 1/2 second. This camera probably isn't the best camera for long exposures any, but the can still be accomplished by holding the button until the exposure is complete. If you are going to take a lot of long exposures with this cameras get a shutter release cable with a lock and then, no problem In fact, the only practical effect is the quieter operation of the camera, which is a bonus So pad of death is just what you need to get to heaven!
Hi, I must admit people do get hung up about it, not all issues are related to it, great to hear your experience, and I am with you, the issue is over exaggerated....
Hi, sorry I have no experience of that camera, and have never repaired one. Try advancing the film, it may reset, anyone got any knowledge re this camera?
I disassembled my Electro 35 GSN to get the camera working again following your instructions in this video! :) Quick question though. When reinstalling the ASA selector, how did you get the black numbered plate to sit still while screwing it back down? I know I had it set to 400 previously, but I can't get 400 to line back up with the red line.
Hi, that's a confident move, did you find the problem, not sure if you meant the rewind crank or film advance lever Without a battery the camera should default to the 1/500 shutter speed The ASA dial was straightforward from what I can remember, has something moved as I think it only fits the one way, will investigate further on my own camera again and come back to you Is the camera functional now?
@@thephotographersbag I just ordered a battery adapter, so I'm not sure about the electronics but everything mechanically is working. I took the top plate off and pressed down on that lever underneath the shutter button and that seemed to do the trick. With the ASA dial as you screw the black numbered plate down it spins with the screw. So you have to be careful to line it back up how it was originally installed. It's an annoying process to get it lined up just right so you're selecting the proper film speed.
@@nicholassmith7723 Hi, sounds like you got the job done, excellent work, will be interested in how the electronics fare, I will have to revisit the ASA dial issue as I can't remember any issues I had( too many cameras LOL) I look forward to hearing about it once you get some power in it, they are great cameras, with brilliant lenses, I take it the film transport issues have been resolved?
@@nicholassmith7723 your comment is noted and when I revisit the camera in a future film, I will emphasize it more, thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated😷
Hi, thanks for your kind words, I tend to use the foam type material from sellers on eBay, they sell packs of foam, some cut into strips with a sticky back, others use such materials as black wool, has the advantage of not degrading like foam does, I have never used anything other than the foam, replacing light seals etc can be a bit of a pain, I remove the old foam with a plastic scraper and lighter fluid on cotton buds ( q tips), but be careful not to use too much....any problems please come back to me.. ..
@@thephotographersbag Thank you so much for this information. I was just right now looking at your video about the Black GT Yashica Electro. Going to pick that one up tomorrow as well. What I like in your video's in particular is the easy way of going about the things you do. That encourages me to start doing things on my camera's as well. Not my Olympus OM-1 camera's though. I handed them in for CLA at a professional here in Holland.
@@dickvisser8363 Hi, start with the easier tasks like replacing foams and detail cleaning, if in doubt don't do anything to a camera that is really important, spend the money and get the repair done by a professional, I have a lot of non working cameras that I buy just to practice on, some I manage to fix and some I make worse, the more modern the camera the more complicated they are and are better left alone, older mechanical cameras without complicated electronics are a lot easier to repair, patience and experience matter..... Good luck with your efforts and I am always here if you need advice....
