I got this and I’ll use them sometime for a shelf queen build. I think it’s just a gimmick more than anything. Back in the day we ran the plastic shocks with great success. They are cool looking shocks with more options.
Did a lot of messing around with these and found they works best on my crawler with a single soft spring and a tiny amount of 30 weight oil for lubrication. The result was good, the body stopped pinging around over small bumps and shocks fully absorbed everything that came their way at speeds up to brisk walking pace. Crawler springs need to super soft.
There should be air left in the system. As the shock compresses the shaft entering the main shock body displaces the oil. Since oil does not compress if you could completely fill the shock with oil you would not be able to compress it. The air in the system can compress. This is why some shocks come with an air bladder in them.
On your rig, can't really see the difference, but I guess if I would put them on my SCX10 2 raw builder kit, I probably would see BIG improvement. Great video !!!
Instead of those Dooky Lizards, try the G-Transitions from Gmade. Same style shock, but they don't bind or leak like the Dumper Lizards. Best shocks I've ever used. Yer welcome.
Honestly, Piggybacks are nonsens in Crawlers or rc cars in general. The extra oil volume is in 1:1 shocks for keeping the oil temperature stable if the shock is fastly compressed. Well, we don't go very fast with crawlers and if, you won't feel any difference with those tiny oil volumes in rc shocks. Imho piggybacks are just show and add another source for failures.
@@dirtbikekid9047 You're suppose to bleed it with the piston compressed fully. Otherwise when the piston is compressed the volume of shock oil displaced by the shaft wants to exit the shock. It can cause premature seal failure and leaking.
