Thanks this was a big help. I found this unit for sale on ebay. Found the listed spec's lacking. Then searched for a model based review. I was wondering if it was linear or a switcher. And you answered that plus more. Definitely going to get one now. For the price and what I need this will work. Thanks again
Blown PS305D supply up twice (30V/5A), circuit similar except it has 2 x 2N3773 instead of 4x2N3055. First failed testing a drone motor, second comparing 6V bulb with LED light. First time I ran motor well above 3.7V and then re-connected it - blew 2 x 2N3773, plus one 0.33 ohm resistor. Today the 6V bulb blew at 6V exactly and the two output transistors failed again. Decided to do the mods described above but could not find out where to put the capacitor and what value. Went to extreme and put 2200uf/63V across C1. Blew 2 of the rectifiers V1-V4 which went up in cloud of smoke, maybe the capacitor was duff. After replacing them I tried a 220uf/63V (ok) and then 470uf/63V - the actual voltage is about 24V. It was ok so I kept that. But then I noticed C3, so added a second 220uf/63V across it - all was ok. I await further failures, not sure how to protect the supply from overload, not confident at all. EDIT #1 Blew again in the afternoon. Something is really wrong with my PS305D. Lost only one 2N3773 this time. Was testing 16 LEDs for replacement of light bulb for 6V. Measured single LED as 2.6V-3V seemed ok each 100ma at most. Wired 8 strings of 2 LED in series and then put these in parallel. Set the voltage to 5.2 V, all were on, then adjusted the voltage slightly up towards 6V target, something blew and the supply display read the dreaded 50V again. Fixed the power supply quickly as I have lots of spares on hand. For the LEDs 7 survived, 5 went open circuit, 1 went closed circuit and 3 were about 1K each direction. I guess I must have caused some sort of surge which blew a 2N3773. This scenario should not cause an overload! WHERE TO CONNECT BASED ON VIDEO - POSITION AND CIRCUIT DIAGRAM Looking at the main board from the copper side. Looking at the supply from above with the cover off. The left side is looking from the front to the rear. The board is screwed to the aluminium heat sink by two screws, call this edge A. Work clockwise around the main board you have edge A (rear), B (right), C (front), D (left). On the edge C about 2/3 along from B->D is a 7812 voltage regulator with 3 pins. On right side is about 24V (input) with C1 470uf, and on left side is 12V (output) with C3 220uf. Middle pin is ground. Not sure which of these capacitors the OP was referring to. I duplicated each by placing leads across the 7812 pins and then used cable ties to secure the capacitors. Effect should be same as OP describes, but leads in different place. Hope this helps. This mod did not prevent the third blow out I had. Possibly some other components were destroyed as well in my first blow out. Another circuit I found has a diode from the collectors of the transistors (V48 etc) from the other side of the emitter resistors (0.33R) pointing toward the collectors. This seems like it would limit a reverse spike going through the emitters, but I am not sure. Frankly I am giving up on this power supply and using another I got from EBAY labelled MS-305D. MS-305D TYPE SUPPLY This is completely different from the PS-305D though the front panel is very similar. It has a switch mode power supply, a crammed main board with IC's and SMD's. It looks like it cannot be repaired. I am using this now. Also I have a much older dual tracking power supply GPC-3030 (slave/series/independent) which is very hardy. EDIT #2 Today I figured out what my problem was, or so I thought. The two transistors that switch the relays had blown and the voltage from the transformer to the power transistor collectors was fixed at 53V, it should vary as more voltage is required. At even 2.6A this exceeds the safe area (see 2N3055 or 2N3773 datasheets). When I replaced them I saw that the 4 transformer outputs are switched in 4 steps. Relay R1 and R2 have 4 possibilities (OFF-OFF,. ON-OFF, OFF-ON, ON-ON). By some clever circuitry the relays switch on and off and you should hear 3 clicks as the relays kick in as you raise the voltage, going from about 10V to 53V. This voltage is applied to the collectors of the 2N3773 and the base voltage determines the output voltage. The voltage from collector to base and emitter is what needs to be kept in check. Anyway I did some more load testing and it lasted a while at 30V with a 11 ohm load but eventually one of the power transistors blew again. I give up! Will put it together again with a 2A limit pasted on the front. Looked at having Arduino to control the power output stage but as it is blowing, I don't see the point, but it is feasible.
About the power spike: I own a similar chinese power supply based on the same electronic design and in the manual it states that the power supply voltage should be turned down before turning on and off, and not to plug anything in prior to turning back on. Obviously the manufacturers were aware of the voltage spike problem.
There are power supplys as my QJ3003E, that has a similar problem BUT this overshoot occures if you come back from the current limitation. So if you have a short and recover from this short, your supply will overshoot. Pretty similar with 15V instead of 5V. And this will kill your circuit :/ A try to find the flaw with this design :/
Could you give details of what capacitor you used and where you placed it exactly. I know it was a few years ago but it you have any info then that would help. The capacitor type and value would be good to know too. Thanks
My equivalent just began throttling to over twice its voltage rating on power-up with no load and a settings at zero. On throttle, the external multi-meter readings are +/- 1.5V. After tweaking the knobs (either Amp or Volt and either course or fine), a faint click can be heard, the fan cuts out, and the unit slowly drops to a display of 0.01V. Again, multi-meter readings are the same as before. Where do I start?
electronupdate - I do not understand where you installed that capacitor, neither its characteristics... by the way...did you also check transients or spikes on power off?
Nice review. Just wondering why the Chinese like to build everything the wrong way around. Voltage and Current controls and meters are the wrong way around, Course and Fine controls are the wrong way around, Ground and Earth terminals are the wrong way around (standard spaced 4mm adapters won't be usable). And there's the quality issues of course, loose earth connection (which may kill you), enormous power-on spike (killing your circuits), very inaccurate meters which read too low (killing your circuits again), and the fake Rubycon capacitor right next to the heatsink which probably blows its arse out when it gets hot (a genuine Rubycon would survive this but costs more than the whole power supply). But otherwise, very very nice power supply. Glad you fixed this one and made it a lot safer!
The time line at 8:49 gives a clue where the extra capacitance capacitor is soldered in parallel to the existing capacitor of the smaller value already on the board. Since the author is not replying to multiple requests look for visual clues.
Mine has malfunctioned today and got stuck giving out 58v (of clean DC looking on the scope) blew a CB radio I was testing :( Any ideas on where to look? I got the squematic that looks right do far
One thing I would like to see you test is the output power. Will it actually put out 30V @ 10A? The one I have will not. I also have a 30V 5A version, which you would think should put out 150W but actually only puts out about 17W.
Well at least the initial manufacturer that assembles these power supplies before GQ, yihua, maisheng... etc rebrand them is actually using rubycon capacitors... They may not be the best rubycon capacitors but I have seen the same exact caps (50V 6800 MXR) used in some of corsairs top of the line ATX power supplies. And I'm referring to their 80 plus rated power supplies too. So assuming they aren't rewrapped chinese poop caps and they are genuine rubycon... Then kudos for atleast including a few good parts. And I agree, kudos for the larger transformer! :)
Was hoping to get some info on the short circuit protection is i would like to remove it or make it switchabke..Mine arrived today .. $100 AUD , cant complain about that Nice video PeaceFromOz
Its not just the cheap Chinese power supplies that surge the output when power cycling - I remember 30 years ago we used Farnell 30V/5A units and had to fit zeners across their outputs to avoid frying the powered circuit after power cuts.
Maybe unhook the possitive before turning it on. Problem solved. You dont want it to be hooked on things before using it. You were saying volt spike, but were there any amps?
Hello, I have my source YIHUA PS-3010D, it works ok. How do I adapt the 4-digit ammeter and voltmeter? Do not use the one with 3 digits, please if you can recommend the right model and stores where to buy it. Greetings from Madrid.
Awesome video! I noticed on a video from 2014 that they actually made the calibration pots accessible from the front, right under the meters. Is this power supply still working for you? I would be impressed if it is. Thanks for the video. Really good show.
Question; does your oscillascope pick up any spikes on initial start up? like on "cold start" for lack of a better word? Because in your initial example of the spikes it seems to have only really occurred when quickly powering off and power right back on? I realize your test was to test the performance and durability under absolutely any type of use... Thats what we do right? we like to push components to their limit... Hence overclocking >: ) lol but anyways I just purchased one of these and just curious if I'll experience any of those spikes under normal use. For example; power on, use power supply. When done using after roughly 10 minutes being on, power off. You know standard use. At roughly 1 amp 12.5 volts. thx
The Rubycon cap on there has gotta be a fake. Unless you replaced it or something. Nice review man, it's cool to see people modding their gear in the review! peace chris
electronupdate ive just bought the 1503DD model its a 15v 3amp now it seems to work for like powering stuff like bulb's moters anything really that runs on electric but it doesn't work for zinc plating it just bleeps & flashes with no power going to the anode & part do you have any ideas please what it could be ? ? ?
I have same PSU, I replaced the potentiometer, and the psu still float the regulated set voltage I need it to work on, example: it will jump from 5v to 3.4 back to 5.5 and so crazy on, sometimes it get stable. I hear how relays switching while start get unstable. Some help, what could I check?
Thanks for the informative video. I just bought a "Long Wei" TPR-3010D that looks just like your Yihua, but it is a switcher with no transformer and relays. I wonder where you get schematics for these things? thanks for any advice you may have on that.
nice power supply! I bought one recently but its only putting out 50V. something is seriously wrong, just wondering if you have the schematics available?
I have a problem with my power supply. I found the regulator power transistors and resistors were burned.even after replacing them not working. Therefore I replaced the error amp too. but still not working correctly. But after removing the UA741 the voltage control is working fine. I don't have a schematic with me. Can you send me the schematic please.
I just got one of these, so far so good. How do you utilize constant current mode? I get current readout, but can only adjust voltage, and the LED is always lit on the voltage side. Great video BTW!
10 months ago, so good chance you've figured it out by now, but... With my supply, which appears to be the same as in this video but re-badged, says that the easiest way to enable constant-current mode is to turn the voltage down to something nice and low (no more than 5V, or you'll get sparks between the leads), connect the two leads together (+ and -) as a dead short-circuit, which is obviously maximum current, and then the supply will limit to whatever current limit is currently configured (the two dials will always be set to *some* maximum current) - and the display will switch over to CC instead of CV. You can then adjust the current to whatever level you want, disconnect the two leads, set the voltage as required, and connect to your load. WARNING, however: my supply specifically states that it has short-circuit protection, and is why it's therefore safe to connect the two leads together. If yours does NOT have short-circuit protection, you'll have to find another method.
+Andrew Gillard I did figure it out, I was being dumb, and not thinking it out. however my display voltage climbs after being on for any length of time, even though the output voltage is actually stable... set it to 5v, and it will read 10v on 12 hours, but the output will still br 5v... problem with my unit somewhere...
mine out of box kept turning off and on repeatedly, led display flashing off and on as well and then popped and shorted out from probably spiking off and on and died, power cord seemed bad connection, cooling fan not staying on, complete piece of junk, banana jacks and banana plugs that came with unit junk, at $54 ON EBAY you get what you pay for. i was using it for a zinc electroplating system just some tiny parts to plate nothing over 1 amp requirement , its ok to use that type of power supply for electroplating???/
These kind of supplies have problem when regulating current. Eg. you need to test expensive LED or Laser diode using constant current. This supply can blow it, because there is big capacitor after the current supply so there is unregulated current spike from this capacitor when load resistance suddenly drops (eg.: you connect LED to supply or something changes in circuit...)
hi... i have loadstar LP3005D (30V 5A) dc supply machine.. the problem is Voltage is increasing up to 12V only.. changed potentiometer and relays still same issue.. kindly help
i have a similar looking DF1730 30V 3A linear PS version, like 10yrs old or so, with a crackly Amp knob (so it seems) . tried to disassemble the thing. What a horrific experience!! a rats nets , all tied up, no room or spare wire anywhere to get single modules out without complete disassemble incl. all the cable ties and EVERYTHING. a total mess!!! Also no proper schematics or block diagram found online. Terrible!!
I have been wanting one of these "Yeehaaa" power supplies for a while, mostly because of the price. What I want it for is running laser diode modules and charging lipo batteries for my rc models, both very sensitive to voltage and ampage. Is this the one for me or should I pay a bit more for something else.
Thanks I just got one of these. It's not named yeehaa in fact it has no name at all but they are all the same thing made in china, even the case is the same. I will try the calibration mods before I fry any expensive laser equipment or worse blow a lipo battery through the ceiling.
+thra5herxb12s Interesting, does the supply have the same internals as well? I've seen cases where the same model and version of chinese products will have variations in the design ... -_- *facepalm*
Hi Hello, I would like to ask if you were able to find exactly such a scheme from this model (W E P 3010D) It is almost identical to your YIHUA. I have it completely in parts, An overview of what you get is not quite accurate and I'm not able to locate the damage, I wonder whether there were all hardware 4 transistors are NPN? Please let me know how you knew something about the schema Thanks.
+Tomtech29 no, sorry i have never seen the exact schematic for the 3010. if you search for the 5A version ("yihua 305d power supply schematic") it seems to have some similarity with this product.
+electronupdate Indeed, in fact, it seems to use the same control board! Possibly the same transformer, though I'm not 100% sure. (I have one of these 5A versions - it even had the same socketed chips. Except, the sockets were HORRIBLY corroded! I replaced them asap!)
I have this power supply incomplete some wires to be broken and not really know where they were ,still needs Scheme to run it This version of the 5 ampere may not differ so much? as if someone had some pics wewnącz please send me.
I have the same power supply except my supply is a 305D. It stopped working yesterday and I cant for the life of me figure out what is wrong. I was charging a small lead acid battery and it charged ok but when I connected the second battery to be charged, I connected the leads backward to the battery terminals and now have a dead power supply. The display chows 0 volts and 4 amps. The voltage and current adjusters do nothing now. Could you give me some advice on where to start trouble shooting?
Hi, I just got one of these for Christmas and It seems to always have a number on the current display no matter whether these dial's are all turned down or not? this happens on both Low (Ma) and Hi (A). Is this a problem that can be fixed or should I send it back? Thanks for your help and hope you have a great Christmas? Cheers
If you put a load on the power supply does it show any values on the current meter? If so it is possible that the ammeter needs adjustment. There should be a pot that can be adjusted inside on the meter circuit board. Standard disclaimers: lethal mains voltages and big capacitors that store considerable charge inside the power supply... only open if you understand how to work around AC powered circuits!
***** Hi, No matter what I do I get no readings on the CV side meter only the fluctuating numerals on the current side. I had a look inside and got no readings from the transformer! Cheers
Can you please help me with this? I got one of this but the current doesn't adjust. Actually the led for the current doesn't light up at all. The seller said that I need to change the potentiometer. Is that correct?
The current display is a current LIMIT. You can't directly control the current that goes through a circuit as that is a product of the voltage applied and the resistance of the circuit (for a very basic circuit, at least; it's more complicated as you add more components, but you can still never turn up the current dial and expect the current reading to increase unless the supply is already limiting). To more easily set the current limit, turn the voltage down to a few volts (saves power usage, heat generation and prevents sparks), connect the two output terminals together (which will of course result in the maximum possible current flow) and then adjust the current limit dials. Then you can disconnect the outputs when you're done and turn the voltage back up to what you need. This was all written in my manual :p
Question: I want to test brushless motors & ESCs with this PSU instead of using batteries. With voltages from 16-25v and 20-40A. Of course the ESC doesn't always push that many amps. So the question is will this cap at 10amps or is that just the limit of amp precision?
Daniel Allen Try this search string "50A lab power supply -5a" in ebay. At these power levels a supply from a trusted vendor will be about $1,500 to $2,000 used. ebay lists a number of dodgy suppliers (pay particular attention for UL/CSA marking... at these power levels safety is important
lol i literally have one of those in my lab. it's annoyingly loud. i don't use it. instead, i end up just using my 1000w ATX switching power supply instead though; it's a server power supply with closed loop control for voltage, has a very stable output. it's also very quiet, runs cool, and has several 12v and 5v rails on it.
Christopher Vo Thx Chris. I would use a standard PSU, however I need to simulate batteries with voltages of 16-25v. I was surprised to learn that higher DC voltage isn't cheap to achieve. So I opted for using real 5s & 6s Lipos. Or is it possible to step up 12v to 25v? With 15-20a?
CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHERE TO GET A SCHEMATIC OF THE 0-30 VOLT, 0-10 AMP POWER SUPPLY I HAVE HAD MINE FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND THE OUTPUT DIED. I REPLACED THE 4 OUTPUT TRANSISTORS I CAN ADJUST THE VOLTAGE OUTPUT FROM 0 TO 30 VOLTS BUT HAVE NO CURRENT. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE ME.
+Wes Dotson Check for shorted diodes on the control board (the one above the transformer). Also check to see if your ICs are in sockets. If they are, I recommend that you remove the sockets and just solder the ICs in the regular way ... Also, you might have a bad IC. The output transistors, when they short out, can feed a large amount of current into the ICs, easily frying them.
I picked up one of these for a pretty good price, new. I added a 1f capacitor 'just in case' (I did not detect a voltage spike to begin with). The supplied voltage is pretty accurate (off by .06-.1 volts). The problem is the ammeter is off. Using a power resistor, it was off by .2 amps across the voltage range. (actually higher voltage seemed to get more accurate). However, using a lesser load (dc fan), it was off by much more. I adjusted the trimpot on the meter board all the way counter clockwise, which improved a bit (at least at 5 volts, I was able to detect a load, but no where near accurate.... is there anything else I can do to adjust the displayed ammeter? My old power supply (that served me well) had a button to switch to miliamps, this doesn't -- any one know if ti can be added or is it just not available on the 10amp version) And wishful thinking: Has anyone figured a way to display the "limitted current"? (ie: before you put a load on it?) The big thing is I'd like to be able to detect at least .1 amp @ 5v, even better if I could detect at 3v- right now; I have to break .5 or .6 amp load to register '00.1" amps; which is not helpful... Thanks for any helpful ideas/suggestions (other than the standard "don't buy Chinese" which really isn't helpful)
Regarding "how to display the set current limit", see my reply above: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Osc1--tmzlQ.html&lc=z12liptgpkrzibggp04cf5rr2wfozdlbv2s.1469987831415493
+68Stan No Rubycon is a good company actually! It's a Japanese manufacturer, on par with Nippon Chemi-Con, Panasonic, Nichicon, and Elna. I have one of these supplies, but it's the 5A version. I think the Rubycon capacitor _might_ be counterfeit, I'm not 100% sure. I have to take the plastic lid off the top of it to see what the shape of the release vent is. Usually the chinese get that wrong when counterfeiting. Sometimes they get it right, and when they do, they still get the rubber bung wrong! XDDD
Great video! I got an important question. I recently bought one of these and I am having difficulty going into CURRENT (CC) mode. Could anyone please provide me with the step-by-step instruction to get into that mode? Thank you in advance.
Short the Black and Red terminals together. The constant-current led should light... adjust to limit desired and then remove the short. Don't leave the short in place for more than a few seconds... use a banana cord set with thick wire...
***** I tried doing exactly as you mentioned, however the CC indicator still would not light up. Could you please post a one or two minute short video demonstrating this. It would be greatly appreciated as I have been trying to get it to work for a couple hours now. The manual that came with this machine was written very poorly. It looks like someone in fourth grade wrote the manual. It has spelling and grammar mistakes all over the place. Usually, I don't mind if there are some language mistakes, but if you ever read the manual for this machine, you would know exactly why using it can be somewhat frustrating, yet it still has limited functionality compared to other expensive machines. As the common saying goes, "you get what you pay for". Once again, thanks for your help in advance. Also, you definitely got my "subscribe" button click. Keep up the good work and keep posting high quality videos like this one. It is difficult to come across videos with clear, good, and concise explanations these days.
turn supply on. Set supply to provide some voltage output (1-2 v). Rotate both fine and corse adjust current knobs fully counter clock wise. Short red and black posts with banana cable... CC light should immediately light... if not you may have a defective unit... the quality control on these is pretty low
***** Thanks very much. I did exactly as you mentioned. I have come to realize that I have a defective unit. I connected the black and red wires together for about 1 or 2 seconds. The CC light still would not turn on.
CanadianMathMagician I have the same supply as you with the exact same problem. It will not go into constant current mode. Next "cheap" supply i get will be a rigol.
i just find out this is the real deal check the 1502dd from other brands that look the same but it has hallf the parts no fan and the transformer is much smaller
I don't get it. People bying cheap Chinese crap, testing it and whining and complaining about poor quality. To make things really pathetic, trying to fix it or engage in an upgrade. Seriously guys, what do you expect for 50 bucks? You want decent stuff? Pay 10 times more, buy Rigol or whatever quality brand and stop destroying your local economy.
Unfortunately in today's world you can typically get equipment, components, PCBs and the like that are of the same quality as domestic products... and they cost MUCH less... For example, I will NEVER pay $50 for three PCBs made domestically when I can get the SAME PCBs that have the EXACT SAME QUALITY, if not BETTER, from China, Korea, or Japan. Even after paying for shipping through DHL, its STILL CHEAPER. We are talking like, $5-15 for ten boards (or ten panels) under 100cm^2. LEDs are another great example. I recently bought a pack of 50 LEDs that were produced domestically, and guess what happened? Half of them didnt work. I bought a pack of a thousand LEDs from China, waited a week and a half, and guess what? THEY ALL WORKED, and they were STILL cheaper than the ones I bought domestically. It is not very easy to say that Chinese electronics are of poor quality, when almost all electronics are made or assembled in China, with some in Thailand and Korea, sometimes Japan. There is no sense in buying products domestically just to "support your local economy" when they mark said products up 500-1000%, and said products do not work any better or any worse than any other products. I believe it is also important to mention that RIGOL IS A COMPANY FOUNDED AND OPERATED IN CHINA.... They may have OFFICES in the US, but it is STILL A CHINESE PRODUCT. In the case of Rigol, their products AGAIN are marked up to insane levels. I can purchase oscilloscopes that are just as good as a $3k, $5k, $10k Rigol for a fraction of the price, and if I really wanted quality equipment for less than $100, I would get myself a good old analog CRT oscilloscope (even a USB variant works just as well) or perhaps go dumpster diving, or better yet go to any university and ask if there is any old electronics test equipment they want to get rid of. You do not need to pay $10,000 for a product that is realistically worth maybe $500. We are talking about an insane markup here, because in all reality it cost them MAYBE $75 per unit, even after considering costs related to R&D. Even $300 for their "cheapest" and least capable power supply (30V, 5A) is not worth it when one can go and buy something else for less than $100. Sure it doesnt have a fancy LCD display and it isnt programmable, but who the hell needs any of that crap anyway?
