Just finished the Nutter bypass on my 89YJ. I got rid of the Carter carburetor and bought a cheap $89 Chinese carburetor from Amazon it was a copy of a Motorcraft 2150. I had to buy the adapter plate for it for $26. And a 33046 fuel filter that screws into the carburetor. I deleted all the vac lines, except those that go to the distributor advance heater control 4 x 4 control and brake assist. I kept the PCV valve that screws into the top of the head cover And ran that to a vac line as well. I took two wires and went directly from my distributor and went all the way around and went directly to my ignition module , I didn’t search for wires going into the firewall like some others do. I changed the distributor it was $30, good thing too as there are some problems with the old one that was making it surge a little bit. Gave it a complete tuneup plugs wires rotor cap. I timed it by ear and that seemed to be good enough, it has a whole lot more power and smooth all the way through the rev band. Idles from cold start and after warm. All the hoses and junk removed including that huge air cleaner make it easy to access everything. I traded a motorcycle I paid $1000 for 6 years ago for this jeep. It did have some extreme rust issues with the rear shock brackets and one rear leaf shackle bracket and frame area, but after some cutting and welding it’s all solid again. If someone is having problems with how their jeep is running I strongly suggest ditching that carter carb and getting the MC 2150 on Amazon compatible for 88 Jeep Wrangler some carbs come with the fuel filter with nipple. And make sure you get the adapter plate. Gonna need to take the old base plate off since the new adapter plate is almost as thick, also Make sure the kitcomes with the thick black base plate gasket since the carb will have vac leak problem without it or you have to make a custom gasket. ( carb base slightly bigger than thin gaskets that come with the carb) thanks to you , and about 10 other videos I watched, this motor transformation took place in less than 6 hours.
Ps , if the adapter and customizing the throttle attachment bracket is too hard for some, you can order a cheap Amazon carter copy for $68 without the stepper motor (88 and older) and it’ll just slap on with no mods.
NY only requires emissions on 1996 and newer obd2 controlled vehicles. anything older is safety inspection only(lights,tires,tie rodes,ball joints etc). it takes 2 minutes to inspect my 87 grand Wagoneer and I'm on my way.
You rock Thomas!!!! I just did the nutter bypass on my 89 YJ a week ago. Man....no more stalling and it runs 200% better than what it was. Great video.
Bruhh.🙄 I am goin thru the same exact shituation! This dam motorcraft starter relay is hella confusing, after replacing everything I have been stuck trying to figure out this factory wiring for almost 4 months now. I'm gonna do this conversion tomorrow, crossing my fingers and everything thing else that can be crossed it goes better than it has for the past 110 days.. ...thank you for courage and of course your video & knowledge.
This is a good explanation! I’m having issues with my 86 Eagle 258 but I’m going to try to fix the choke & stepper motor and if I can’t I may have to do this. I bought a choke thermostat for $15 and a carb rebuild kit for $20 so I figure it’s worth a shot.
Hi tom this i briliant i did that bypass engine started one bang all i need to do is set carb thanks bro O! my computer is allready out looking to chop off some more wires lol wow
So leave the plug at the distributor connected, but cut the orange and purple wirea coming directly out of the distributor before the plug, wire those to the icm under the bottle on the drivers side?
Buy a, 1 wire, coil on top, GM style distributor, motorcraft 2150, manual choke, non elect carb and adapter. Remove/cancel/bypass all crappy ford style ignition electronics for early CJs. later CJs/YJs cancel all crappy Crysler emissions/computor +wiring. Now you have only 1 wire that runs the engine, and a bulletproof carb, that feeds the fuel, now you have removed 99% of the carb issues, 100% electronic issues, and 0 problems on the road/trail.
I am wondering why start the bypass from the distributor, why not splice in before the orange/purple wires go into firewall from the loom, then bypass only on the drivers side down to the ignition module, wouldn't that effectively be the same thing and using less wire added on as a bypass.?
I'm down in Lee county. As long as it runs it really doesn't matter how much the wiring was butchered. What the nutter does is take away the computer control.
Three questions: #1. Are you connecting the two new wires from the distributor directly to the two orange and purple wires coming out of the ignition module, or did you connect the new wires from the distributor directly to the two wires that plug in into ignition module, they for bypassing the ignition module? #2. By cutting the old orange and purple wires that went from the distributor to the computer and now going from the distributor to the ignition module you are bypassing the computer, correct? #3. I am wondering why start the bypass from the distributor, why not splice in before the orange/purple wires go into firewall from the loom, then bypass only on the drivers side down to the ignition module, wouldn't that effectively be the same thing and using less wire added on as a bypass? Thx, Tom
Hello. Nice Job! I see that most of you vac hoses are gone…looks very clean! Is there a guide as to what I can remove and plug at the manifold? Which ones to I need to keep? I have an 89 YJ with the original carter and ALL of the Cali emissions trash that I dont need here in Florida. It actually runs okay but Im looking to clean out the engine compartment and get some mpg improvement. Thanks
I just did this and no spark. Im confused on do you eliminate the ecm and connect the orange and purple to the harness or connect that to the ecm keeping it in play. Thanks
hi tom vidio, i got a question,can this be done on 90 4.2 wrangler automatic trans?i already replaced the carb w/a weber and still can't get the darn thing to idle runs great @hi rpms any help is appriciatate
im going to be doing a nutter on a 89' 4.2l 6 cyl. original carb. i keep reading about the work that needs to be done to the carb for this bypass but are those pins the only thing?
I need help please I have a 1990 jeep wrangler cj with a 4.2 and carter carburetor once I get up to 30 mph it stalls out why and what can do I been on it for a month can someone help me thank u
Did the nutter bypass and the Jeep ran great for about a month. Now, starts intermittently and runs 20 sec at best. Coincidence...I think so. I've double checked my wiring and connections. It has the original ignition module on it. Any thoughts?
Could be anything, i had a similar problem. My weber 38 has some "jets" that screw into the side of it and it had gunk or something in it, cleaned it out with wire and it worked fine. I don't know a thing abt jeeps so if what I'm saying sounds off, sorry, I would just "factory reset" the carbuerator and clean some parts of it. Might help might not
GusgusA1 yes, since you basically disconnect all electronic connections to the carb it eliminates the electronic choke. Buy a manual choke for $10 and you’ll be fine. I ran one and honestly I’ve never need to use it.
