Wow! That is an amazing tutorial! Thank you very much. I have a question please. When you have the back neck width and you want to calculate the total neck circumference , usually it is back neck width * 3.14. But I see other knitters take the back neck width and multiply by 2. Which one is correct? I ask because when I want to add ribbing to the neck, if I have the back neck width only, I add the distance of the ribbing on both sides of the neck and consider this as total back neck width then I multiply by 3.14 to get total neck circumference. So if my back neck width is 20 cm and the ribbing will be 2 cm, I add 2+2+20= 24 new back neck width then I multiply this by 3.14. Is this correct?
Rima - what an excellent question. I usually use circumference of my head - and take it from there - not that much math is needed. Why do I use the circumference of my head? Because I have to be able to pull the sweater or blouse over my head. And that is going to solve that "problem". Then I decide - do I want a turtleneck? If so I do not need to add any extra sts. If I want my opening to be a little bigger then I add just as many sts as I need - not many though, if I do not want my opening to be huge. Your using 3.14 is a formula to figure out the circumference of certain distance that runs from (or through) the middle of the circle. With your math you would end up with a huge opening for your head. (20+2+2)x3.14 = 75.36 cm, which is 29 inches - average head is 21 inches, which is ~53 centimeters - I hope this helps you to make a best decision. 🍀
You took me back to my school recess where the girls who taught me to knit would use formulas to be even. I cannot thank you enough it feels good. Excellent tutorial in this age where no one knows WHY you need to know HOW to do things using Math.
Very nice and clear,.......finally it all comes down to a good sense of common sense.....not very common in this era of consumerism when every thing, even creativity ,is for sale
I have always felt intimidated to knit sweaters .. that is until now! It’s just a matter of math and doing the correct amount of increases ! Thanks so much for the tutorial. 🙌🏻🙌🏻
You are the best! Every pattern I tried to decipher has a different approach. Formulas are not always reliable because their gauge and yours do not always match. Your approach is superior. Thank you so much.
Interesting way to do a yoke sweater. This give me an idea of how much yoke increases are adjustable to ones preference and ease.🤔🙂🙂 Great reference video for future ideas.
Glad it was helpful Bareiria, you can readjust the stitches in rows according to your measurements - you may need few more stitches for a very broad shoulders, and lower number of stitches around your armpits... you can also adust them according to a pattern... 🍀🍀🍀🍀
Thank you. Bronislavia. You’re the best. We see the detailed you created in putting this tutorial together. We really appreciate your way of forming the you’re and sweater. 👍🏼
Thank you very much for watching my video. And yes, you can use it even for crochet, but remember crochet stitches can be different lengths. It’s all about the math good luck ❤️
Hi Bronislava, You are a great teacher, this is what I have been looking for, how to calculate the number of sts required to go round circumference of my chest measurements. Excellent tutorial😘👍👍👍
You are welcome, Alison. I think I need to make one more video about Yoke, and dealing with patterns - I guess, not as elaborate, but a video with suggestions more or less.... I am happy you enjoyed it 💛
Hi, since I increase stitches evenly spaced, I stop increasing when I kind of get a circumference for sleeve (x2) + a circumference for body = circumference before you connect body, and knit sleeves separately... which should be somewhere around underarms (if needed you may knit few rows straight down without increasing to get to underarm area)... hope this helps
Excellent explanation! So clearly communicated with pictures. I am watching from India. Your accent is very clear. Can you please let me know from which country you belong . Thank you. NC
thank you so much for the tutorial, every other pattern, they just told me to make it on my intuition XD they never provided what i should base my sweater on, which was furstrating :b now i know what ill be doing, your video is very educational and i appreciate it a lot ^^
Lieve, I usually add 2+ stitches - depending on how many I need for the pattern (that I would be knitting on the body part, and or sleeves), and/or depending how many stitches I may need for sleeves/body part if knitting a simple top/sweater.... 🍀
Lisa, it Depends - if I don't want to see stitches too much then below the stitch, if I want it as a "design" then YO (lacy method) - these are two of my examples...
Yes you can, cream peonies... do a test swatch with the stitch pattern you would like to use, so you can count stitches and rows and then apply numbers to calculate... although you need to take into consideration that stitch and rows measurements are different from knitting - so you for example in knitting you would have to add stitches every other row, but in crochet you may have to add stitches every row if the stitch is very long.... 🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀
@@HandMadeRukodelky I'm a relatively new knitter who crossed over from the crochet world...looking to develop more intricate skills led me to subscribe to your channel, among other's. I've come to really enjoy your style of teaching, you explain the why, which lends my mind freedom to create. Thank you🥰❣be well
Very very useful information. I do not knit bit I do crochet. Thanks a lot. I would also like to know, if you don't have the subject to actually measure, how would you design a sweater in different sizes? Craft yarn council don't have all the measurements.
Hi Rashami - great question.. I usually design either size small (for my child), or medium (for myself), or for a 3 months old child (I have a doll) or for an American Girl Doll (I also have a doll) --- I try to design with measurements in mind, or I take an outfit and as I knit I compare if it fits over the item... If I knit a stitch pattern I chose it according to how many stitches I have on my needles and how many repeats would fit in there. It's all math. Occasionally I have to rip it and redo it so it fits the measurements. I do not do patterns to fit other sizes because it is a lot of work and it would take me away from my other projects. Resizing is a math process - how many stitches and rows fit into an inch or a centimeter. And what stitch pattern will fit in them. 🍀🍀🍀
Hi, My sweaters usually get enough ease with regular knitting... if you knit tight, you may need to add some ease to it... if you knit loose, you may have to be careful with adding stitches, unless you like roomy sweaters... 🍀
Hello I am making my first yoke sweater its called fern and feather. I made the colourwork yoke then increased the back using wrap and turn technique. I have separated the sleeves and worked few rounds of the body from underarm area. But its bulging where the yoke pattern is. What should i do to fix that or what did I do wrong for the sweater to bulge? Please help
Hi Alison, I wish I could too 💛 - I am working on several gifts now, so all my videotaping is put on back burner... sigh - I should do it in the future when I am not pressed for time, but I may forget, I need people remind me their requests 😕
Thank you very much for your tutorial .Now I have the tools to start a sweater from measurement.Just a little question: How about ease. How much should I calculate?
Hi Pippi - I prefer my sweaters/blouses roomier, even wider than needed (=oversized) so you will have to figure out how much ease you want and integrate it into your math - not sure how much you would calculate. You need to keep in mind also how the yarn "stretches" after you hand wash it (= what type of yarn it is, does it hold the shape? or does it loosen up after washing?) I hope this helps 🍀🍀🍀
Hi U hv explained so nicely.. but hw to increase sts in lace pattern... I hv started Yoke sweater for my daughter with all over lace pattern but very confused hw to increase sts.... Cn u pls help me
Hii Gogi - that is another beast and would take a lot of explanation, but I would suggest using lace patterns, that would repeat only every few rows, then knit regular rows and in those rows increase as many stitches as you would use in multiples of your lacy pattern 🍀
Hi, you can increase in different ways - depending on what look of your increases you want on your knitted fabric - 1. you can do yarn over (YO), 2. you can knit one stitch below the stitch you will be knitting next (K1B), 3. you can knit one through the back loop and then immediately through the front loop of the same stitch (KBF) - good luck 🍀
🙁 I’m still stuck on row 1! My gauge is the same as yours so I have 100 sts cast on. But I need to increase my first row by 14 stitches to get to a total of 210 stitches within 3 inches because I have 42 inches around my shoulders.. can anyone help me?
First do your ribbing=edge with no increases (4 rows would be sufficient); then you have 16 more rows left to spread 110 stitches over it (210-100=110)... If you increase every other row that will be 110 sts over 8 rows then.... 110/8= 13.75 sts - which means aprox 13-14 sts each row... so I think I would do Row 5 - 10 increases: (knit 10, increase 1 - repeat 10x), Row 6 just knit 110 sts... then you have 7 more rows to increase another 100 sts - Row 7 - I would increase by 11 sts = (K10, incr 1) - 11x (= you will still have to increase y 89 sts over 6 rows) - you should have now 121 sts, Row 8 - K121; Row 9 - increase by 11 sts = (k11, incr) - 11x; Row 10 - K132: now we can accelerate more stitches in each round = Row 11 - we have 132 sts = increase every 10 sts (k10, incr) - 13x, you will have 2 sts left - just knit them and no increase... 132+13= 145 sts in Row 12 (K145) - at this point, you still need to increase 65 sts over 4 rows (every other row = Row 13, 15, 17, 19) Can you figure out how you would like to continue in those next sts? Do the math - it will be good practice for you - and let me know....
this is what I came up with for the remainder… Row 13: *(k 10,inc) 14 times 159sts Row 14: knit 159 stitches Row 15: *(k 10, inc)* 15 times 174sts Row 16: knit 174 stitches Row 17: *( k 10, inc)* 17 times 191 stitches Row 18: knit 191 stitches Row 19: *(k10, inc) 19 times 210 stitches