An additional trick with pinning: . Instead of cutting the wire underneath, bend it 90° and use that as an additional anchor point for glue. It's absolutely permanent. The base will crumble before the model moves.
It seems that as time moves on, miniature designers take the bases into account more frequently. Pinning used to be nearly mandatory because there was almost no consideration for how to actually attach the model securely unless the miniature had a build-in slot for a slotted base. For myself, I've moved to basing the miniature before painting, with the exception of a few troublesome models. It just saves me a lot of time - I don't have to try and avoid getting basing material on a painted model. Also with the exception of certain large, special models I don't tend to raise the miniature up on an extended base, so finishing the basing details first is more important because the miniature's feet are more integrated into the scenery.
Out of curiosity, for what reason would you do basing last? I see you say 'moved to basing first,' but I've always done basing first and see why anyone would leave it until they had a beautifully painted mini to ruin!
I recently started getting back into Warhammer and such (15_ year hiatus from the hobby) and the idea of putting something under the feet to prop them up for basing is a great idea. Glad I saw it here so I can start doing that to prevent the look of models sinking into the ground.
Nice to see someone suggesting painting the base first. I think the fact that so many people paint the base last is why we see so many armies with unpainted bases: people finish the model then don't have the desire to paint the base and therefore leave it unfinished. Paint the base first and you won't get that problem!
The space marines I have is from one of those starter kits, and the bases have a slit in each for the model, which has a bar of plastic that goes into the bases
Subbed, this was great, good tips and you have a very clear style of explaining things. As a consultant, i can appreciate this. You're also very understanable and have a calm speaking voice. Wish more people would do that :)
This video is what I need, just at the right moment. I just painted some bases for Slave Ogryns, but models aren't painted, and I wasn't sure how to do it right, when I'm ready to place them at base. All my questions answered. Thank you, You are MVP
I have been basing wrong 😂 I've come back to the hobby after almost 15 years away, I remember I could buy a box of tactical marines for £15.. I've been playing the LOTR sbg as that's what my mates are doing, and for basing those models I've assembled them, glued to the base, applied the base materials (I've got a Mordor army so I've gone with a gravelly look) by doing a whole layer of baking soda stuck with superglue (I find that it better represents fine rocks than sand at this scale) patches of actual sand, then patches of coarse sand with a few larger rocks. Then undercoating the entire model + base as one, then painting the base first before going at the model. This was fine for the 36 Morranon Orcs I started with, they are posed well enough so it was easy to paint the entire model but now I've done the same with 12 Morgul Knights and it's a struggle to get at underneath the horses body/legs because of the large base and the various poses. I didn't glue the riders onto the mounts however (a few are magnetised anyway) so painting them will be a breeze. I also bought on a whim the start collecting set for Chaos Space Marines, as I always love the models and did used to play 40k back in the day. I'll be using the techniques I've learned here and some basing ideas from some of your other videos to make it easier and hopefully let me do a better job on the painting side. This video was really useful, a lot of what you suggest is really really useful. Thanks a bunch mate!
He marks the paper clip with the sharpy so he knows were to cut it ! I had a feeling it was a good idea to cut the paper clip with the plyers/wire cut rather then use the spru cuters. Thanks man.
I know it's necroposting but as someone that always rages when basing small feet bloodbowl players (damn elves) thank you for the piece of sprue glued beneath the feet tip.
So in conclusion, I've never even heard of pinning until now and I was doing it right from the beginning. Good tip about putting models on bits of putty when gluing them to the base, though, that should make it noticeably easier to apply basing up to and around the feet.
Weird to see that you have pinned so many models. That's so time consuming, and surely not as strong as a poly cement bond! I was truly astonished by that revelation!
I've always pinned pinned mine, but with heat. Before basing my models, attach a paperclip to a battery, punch it though the base snip, repeat till I have 20 or so bases. Then I make the bases pretty with the wire sticking out, then once I've painted the minis I re-heat the paper clip and melt it though the foot. Mt most it 40 minutes for 30 models and the hold is great. I recently made a magnetic indiction rig that lets you do each base in a few seconds. Place the base at the top, run the paperclip though a ceramic guide in the magnetic coil till is through the base at the right hight. Add your texture, details and paint he base, put it back on the coils and slide the mini on.
I came across this video at the perfect time. I've got about 40 ork boyz that I need to rip off of their 25mm bases to replace them with 32s, and I was dreading the process. (I've always put my models onto bases during the initial assembly). I've always been hesitant to glue a model onto a painted base, but now going to dive in and give it a shot.
If I make the base first, I usually use wood glue (thick white glue) to attach the models. I can put a blob under the model's feet, which helps with not flat surfaces, and it dries transparent. The downside it takes much longer to dry, but at least I don't have to use green stuff. I reccomend to try it out.
Im' doing something similar since a year ago,using little nails (1 mm) glued only on the base. So i can also detach my mins and pose them baseless. I have to put some glue or paint on the needle to make it thicker and better fit the model.
good video, as for gluing i use something like gorllia glue i have some models that are around 10yrs old and the connection is still as strong gorilia glue is amazing for even one foot contacts as it bonds with a resin type glue not normal super glue
When making bases with dirt or other natural ground cover, I like to roll out a thin sheet of greenstuff as the first layer of the base that I press my model's feet into. I don't put basing material into these footprints so that I can avoid "floating foot syndrome".
@@kieranmelville5451 It's where the mini is standing on top of the base material instead of embeded within it. In extreme cases, it can make the model look like it's floating above and separate from the base.
Big mistake I made was I based 4 Death Company squads (20 models) on rocks that I got from a broken ceramic table that seemed study at the time and looked great but that have since broken from the feet of the models hundreds of times and at this point I see no solution because the rocks are too fragile to pin and I need them to retain their shape so other than spraying a matte varnish on them or something I have no idea. I guess the upside is that break away bases do seem to help from the smaller bits being broken off when they fall but it is guaranteed that the base will come off every time they get dropped which is a massive pain in the ass
Superglue becomes brittle over time. So does green stuff (unless properly painted or sealed). Therefore I use nowadays only 2-part epoxy. It lasts forever. As far as my experience goes :)
pins are great. also if u got a top heavy model, a good heavy bolt or washer, or maybe a heavy coin glued in under the base can help weight it down, lowers its centre of gravity and stops it being tippy on the table. if u got a big base you can sort of coutnerbalance it, so if it naturally wants to tip over forwards you can glue a coin or 2 towards the back of the underside of the base to offset it.
Another option is to magnetize your models feet to the base, but again, this is just as fiddly as pinning, but does mean you can swap out the bases of your minaitures if you want a change of scenery
Hello Jay! Since you're my go to when it comes to basing here on youtube I decided to ask directly about a problem I've gotten myself into. Pinning drukhari wyches. I went with rolling pin to create surface for my pirate space elves' bases. Wyches use sloted bases with a sliding bar attached to only one of their feet. Just the toes actually. I find it very difficult to drill at an angle into their slim foot and I've already ravaged one poor mini's foot by trying (I've made a leading hole before drilling). Could you please give me an advice on how should I attach them to the greenstuff world brown stuff covered bases when no glue is going to hold (tiny contact surface with ridges and 2 different materials to top it off)? If you dear comment reader have an idea I would very much appreciate any help too! Love your content Cheers
100% pin every model, that way you can paint them by shoving the pin into a spare pin vice and not have the base in the way. Its really quick, really easy, and makes painting much easier.
Honestly I like having a weak point in my models, i play on the floor a lot so it totally possible i stand on one and a sacrificial joint usually means it breaks and not the plastic.
Can I ask what super glue you use? Whenever I've superglued models onto painted bases it's left a wired frosting around the glue where it dried Excellent video though, thank you for it!
All of my custodes are pinned, though it is due to using semi fragile rock as the basing material so super glue just rips some of the rock off with little provocation
I am doing some cork bases for my army, and airbrushing the bases and models separately. I was really uncertain about how to put them together afterwards, since I feared that painted surfaces (especially cork or resin) wouldn't provide a strong bond for superglue. Do you think I could get away with gluing them?
Depends how you're basing. A plain plastic base, sure. But if you have a layer or sand you've added separately it seems way more of a pain in the ass to scrape off a perfectly foot sized bit of sand. Batch painting bases and pinning them doesn't really seem harder than masking or scraping.
@@minigamerjeonsofbattle9376 new Vegas minis are due to come in eaely 2021 Have you seen the NCR ranger that was released earlier this year as a promo?
Hey so quick question. I just clipped some stabilizer flashing off my models legs. The legs have pointed tips so they won't glue well to the base and the flashing was meant to give a bit more surface area to remedy this problem. So now I have an impressive model that can't stick to it's base as the leg tips are too sharp. This model is Kharybdis from warmachine. Any suggestions to help keep this model on its base?
2 things I learned; 1. use paper clips instead of expensive small long rods, and 2. Using a piece of sprue to give the models a little lift is super easy and convenient. Thanks!
As a fellow deathwatch player, where do you get your stormbolters from? The only way I can see is to kitbash from terminators or sternguard but I don’t have that kind of money. Any suggestions?
with cork bases is it essential to pin, or can i simply use liquid super glue to attach the model? is there a likelihood of the cork peeling off if i do the latter? thanks
pinning is not WRONG but I only do it if I have to, little feet like ad mech or sisters of battle I think I would, but big fat feet like orks or space marines superglue will do the trick.
@EonsOfBattle I ran into an issue when trying to use plastic cement on those pre-molded bases like what you showed for your death watch. The cement seemed to react much more heavily with whatever that light grey plastic GW uses for the detailed bases. I ended up with a goopy hole in one of the bases and the others barely fused to the models feet. Any idea what I was doing wrong or should I just stick to super glue and pinning for those types of base?
