I cannot thank you enough for this upload, I took my E Revo down to my local hobby shop today for maintenance and wound up coming home with this lasernut what a beautiful buggy!. Now I’ll watch multiple RU-vid videos and find out everything there is to know about it before I take it outside.
@@Top-Jimmy I can’t believe I’m saying this but I never even charged the battery, The car has been sitting on the shelf for months. I’ve been so busy with work and other things I haven’t got to it quite yet but she’s beautiful just to look at!
Thanks for the informative info. I just perched a used Lasernut in new condition also and I don’t like the brake settings. I’m just getting back into the RC world. My last RC was a Team Associated RC 10 back in 85’, so it’s been awhile. Things have change so much that I’m a newbie all over again but thanks to your video I’ll be making some needed adjustments.
Same here, i got an RC10 B74.2d and i just cant belive how easy it is to drive and how advanced the radio and electronics are. My last Rc10 was from 1989 😄
THANKS A LOT! 👍 My good-as-new 2nd hand Lasernut also had issues w/ steering & factory brake settings - now these are solved and the car's ready to run. 😁
Thank you for the help, I bought this and a rfty about 5 months ago, I don't use the losi just because of this. I did the bind fine. And everything works except the brake. I did try to follow the manual but I got lost during The esc program. I am so glad you did this so I can SEE what I need to do. Thanks again, keep up the videos.
Just seeing this, nice overview! BTW you can properly set the steering end points through the DX3 remote. It's a combination of steering and throttle to get into the endpoint mode. Spectrum has a quick video going over it. It definitely should have been included in the manual.
To fix the steering I switched out my Servo, as the stock one is underpowered for this size of vehicle (1/10th on box 1/8th actual) in my opinion. Now it works great. I agree with the breaks being set way to low in factory settings. This should be changed before running.
Just ordered a more powerful servo to do the same… could you use the existing horn or whatever? Also looking at the Exotec steering setup incase you’re not aware of that upgrade. Meant to help sh1t loads! 🤠
I've thought about getting a lasernut for a while. Seen alot of videos about them and I know there a little problematic but there is a tone of after market. this was my favorite lasernut vid. Think I might have to pull the trigger 🤔 👍👍
You should man they are great just gotta shim the diff and fill them with thicker diff fluid. Dsm off-road makes some really good and cheap bearings. After that they are really tough. Then if you put the vitavon parts on it they are damn near bullet proof
@@adamhayes9203thank you for thinking of me...I haven't... My attention has been pulled into a slightly different direction lately.... FPV drone... its incredible all the different aspects of this amazing hobby
Pretty much all rigs with Spektrum systems have very little brakes, some more than others, and this being more. My theory to why is that the diffs just can’t handle full throttle then hard braking. I experienced this on my Lasernut where I turned the brakes to 100%, drove it at near it’s top speed, hard braked, and the diffs made this nasty crunching sound. I’m pretty convinced that’s it.
Thankx for that video Mr net cruzer--man really helpful to know this stuff...The same thing happened to me with this Lasernut. I had someone selling it really cheap on market place, like 3 times below market value, but they were totally upfront with the issue which was the rear diff was making harsh internal grinding noises... So I took out the the diff and opened the housing...So the 2 bearings that are on the spirwelled pinion wheel the inner bearing was totally stripped.... so I will replace the both bearings ... while I have the diff out I will jump in there and replace the pinions gears and put in some 5000 or 7000 diff oil... and then hopefully the grinding noise will dispense....
I’ve kept the box stock shock and diff setup and handling seems quite good. Cold temps might be helping and may need to stiffen or thicken things in warmer weather. I did a track test on 4S with and without that rear tire hanging off the rear. Just need to edit and post that video! 👍
I'm glad your cat pulled through. I hope who ever owns the dog takes some responsibility for the animal that is in their care as well. This is another good reason why cat really should not be out door cats really ever. Not to mention its pretty inconsiderate to neighbors to have your pets in their yard.
It's been a few years now since that happened and I'm pleased to say the cat is still alive and sleeping here beside me.. but there was lots of healing complications and follow up surgeries and it took about a full year for her to recover. It was very expensive and I sold quite a few things to fund those vet bills. I kept the DB Pro and sold the LaserNut.
I just got a Losi 1/10 Baja Rey, which uses 2S and 3S batteries. Its at total "insanity" mode w/ the 3S battery, so I just got a couple 2S batteries to get it into some kind of "normal" mode for a more realistic driving experience. Much better w/ the 2S cells. I also dialed the steering input way back, so I wasn't constantly flipping in turns, due to over-steer. 4S seems like major overkill, IMO.
I replaced the receiver and radio immediately. Out of the box, the original setup simply would not bind. It finally did once, but then would have to rebind EVERY time. Oh and the braking is awful, yes.
Man, this was a great video. Thank you very much for the information. I’m thinking about picking one up off of Facebook marketplace next week. I’m definitely going to check the settings. You know I have a new subscriber. Keep up the good work, Brother!
Thanks for the video by the way. Its good info. (And no, i wasnt saying youve calibrated it wrong. Only that it may not be getting done by other purchasers.)
Solid work; serves as a reminder for all RCers to check their so-called "ready-to-run" cars... and more importantly, PLANES. ALL LANDINGS ARE MANDATORY, so make sure yours are under control because you double-checked the efforts of some poor, overworked wage-slave in Asia.
I have the original DB Pro and it's out of box tuning was pretty good, but lately the ESC tuning has been BAD with the new Horizon Models. For example the brand new ARRMA BigRock 6S has a pretty huge new ESC firmware defect that requires purchasing an ESC programmer to fix and update.
@@netcruzer To experienced hobbyist that's probably not that big of an issue but to someone new like whoever you got your lazernut from it could kill the hobby for them. Horizon seems to target the RTR more just pull it out of the box and run it customers these days so its strange they are not being as careful with things like that.
i did all of this with mine and it was still super slow on 4s and overall drove like crap... i then bound my DX5c to it and it just WOKE UP all the issues i was having was with the TX...the stock TX must have some programming out of the box that limits the car...
if your right and the reason they sold this RC is because the breaks were set to weak and they didnt know how to reprogram them then thats pretty sad but in this day and age not surprising
I think that’s exactly what happened. It’s much better now but I’m also going to sell this soon. I prefer the DB Pro which is faster and stronger, but the lasernut looks better.
Not many except that LOSI kept with smaller scale electrics in large scale chassis/bodies. I can’t really comment on reliability for the 1/6 it’s too new for real world durability to know if it’s strong or has weak bits. The 1/10 has weak axles.
Not sure if its the same for the losi lasernut, but i have the losi super baja rey 2.0. I found that the more power you give it the more brake it gives in return, again not sure if their the same
Yes, tightening the servo saver was also needed, I didn’t show it after on the bench. But it was tightened for the outdoor action scene. Much better control.
And what is your recommendation for making it faster (let's say 55-60mph)? Replacing the gearing and/or the engine? can it be modified to run on 6s batteries?.
Just tightened down that servo saver on the bellcranks even more, I couldn’t get a good shot of doing it. The other things I did were more important to improve this car.
@@netcruzer Ah I see. So the steering issue was sorted easily enough then I’m assuming. The left to right movement looked terrible and way too 1 sided 😅
I’ve got this issue with mine, it won’t turn left, I just replaced the servo but it still won’t turn left. How do you adjust the servo saver, I can’t get the knob to turn, should it be tightened or loosened?
@@timwoodrow8229 it sounds to me like it should be tightened. Did you get the problem fixed? I just picked up this car today and watching a ton of how to videos about it
@@daleadmire1451 I didn’t yet, but I’m thinking that maybe I should get the steering rack properly centred with the servo in its neutral position. then make sure that both tie rods are adjusted to allow equal travel from left to right. I also need to swap the bolts to countersunk as the round headed bolts are binding on the steering/chassis brace. After this is all done I should be a fully qualified race mechanic, right?!