Anyone else notice how excited Rob looked at the end? It’s really inspiring to see a man at his level get excited like that. Thank you Rob, great idea and spectacular video as always.
Great video and build. I do have 2 minor additions to it. 1, where the spring meets the movable jaw, place a washer so the spring moves more smoothly than against the timber. 2, in the movable jaw place some type of bush inside the hole. This will allow the movable jaw timber not to be in contact with the thread. As any comment suggested elongating the holes in the movable jaw to enable non square materials to be clamped. In another video by another RU-vidr, the used copper pipe for a sleeve. No matter the exterior dimension, copper pipe can be formed to fit inside the slide hole. This vice would be great for a job site saw, as a vice is always there to be used.
And just when I thought I had reached the age where I couldn’t add another vice into my life……what a great idea. Just going to have to paint the wheels bright red so I will not miss bruising the side of my leg. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
I built a moxon vise two years ago, but I was intrigued by Luther’s suggestion to add springs. I went to my workshop to get some measurements, and found that I had a different solution. I used pipe clamps, a far more economical approach, and attached the two face pieces of each clamp with pieces of wood. I could have drilled holes in each face and used screws. While Luther was an O5 or O6, nothing can beat an E5 in the USMC where over 50 years ago we were taught to adapt, improvise and overcome. My vise is portable so I can clamp it to my workbench, end table on my Shopsmith or a table saw if I had one. I glued together pieces of plywood to form faces that are 2” thick and 26” long and left the tops of the faces flat so the dovetailed piece of wood can get a final planing on the moxon vise. A box is attached to the back of the vise to hold the dovetail saw and marking devises. I used the vise to make six of Paul Sellers’s desktop organizers that were gifts for family and my neurosurgeon. That is another story, especially how he uses it.
Great idea with that table saw. I created my Moxon vise and added a box behind with holes just like the MFT top to secure pieces with the clamps to do the pins. I just need to do a drawer to store some tools. Great vise, thank you.
Great video. And great idea You might want to split the recess for the spring and hex nut between the two boards, there will be less of a thin section on the wheel side board
I would cut out a rectangular section from each side of the MDF to make a T shape that would fit between the threaded rods. That way you can store the MDF in the vice instead of getting down to put it under the table saw. Otherwise wonderful idea.
And yes, I do like this video. I'm making one of these for the local woodwork club. I'm making it as a mobile height extension work platform with moxon. It will be clamped to any one of the eight joiners benches to 1. hold work at a more suitable height for dovetales and other similar work, and 2. include a 30" x 20" bench that includes bench dogs and holes for hold downs. I like the spring idea. I'm lucky Luther didn't patent it - yet.
Great idea, beautifully executed as only Rob can do. I used some spherical washers and modified the outer jaw holes to allow the jaw to be angled when clamping. Handy for non rectangular workpieces
Whoa! That is a really good idea! You guys really have some great ideas/products. I gotta hand it to you. It must be so satisfying to be able to bring your ideas to fruition the way you do. what with the dovetail tools you've invented and the saws and everything. Just fantastic. Thanks for sharing it.
I am currently planning a moxon vise build, although mine will be a little bit different.. I have just decided on the wood river kit. Thank-you Rob and Co. 😄😁🤘🙌❤
Super idea for those of us with limited space and easy to modify to a Moxon worktop by building a deck on to it. Still waiting on the donkey ear shooting board you teased about a few weeks ago.
This is an AWESOME idea! I wonder if you were to put dog holes in the vice, and put a spacer against the tablesaw fence if you could clamp boards flat and plane against it. I'm just getting into joinery and was gifted a cabinet saw. I don't have a bench yet but this could get me by for a little while!!!
Very cool idea! nice build too Rob. I liked the low cost materials and the easy build. Anyone can make one! I have a bench-top version in the works. will send some photos when its done.
The vice is an awesome idea! How can we put that vice on a Cosman bench? That could go on a side or end. The springs are a game changer for a moxon vice great idea! Thanks for sharing. Take care and be safe.
It can easily go on the workbench, either in the face vise or end vise position or as on top as a portable vise. I would not advise in the end vise position as the Sjoberg would better handle holding piece flat on the top with a dog. The face vise position is a great option as is making the Moxon portable and holding it down on top of the bench. To ass to the face vise position you drill two holes through the side for th ethreaded rods and then chop out a slot to capture the nuts
@18:34 you’re actually using the adjustable wrench wrong. You’re straining the movable jaw. I got to correct Rob Cosman on tool technique 😱😱😱 all jokes aside thank you for your impeccable work and work you do for wounded veterans. That really hits home for me.
Can you do a force diagram please to illustrate your point? I can't see how which direction you use the spanner avoids putting strain ( force ) against both jaws
Great idea Rob. I’ve been looking for a spot in my shop for a vice like this. I’ve got a router table on one side and the other side of my saw is open.
Great idea that you gentleman came up with. I have a Powermatic, so my dust cover is in the way. Will have to make some alterations. Thanks for the tip/
Way back, I had an early Leigh jig. They introduced improved vice parts, and I was talking to the owner on the phone and telling him how great that was and how much I was looking forward to the parts (they worked great). Anyway, he said I would love them, but he was kinda amused at all the people who were scrambling for them because the way the jaw was designed (like a large Moxon jaw with tiny knobs), was that what you were supposed to do was just release one end, the way you did at 2:15, but by pushing in on the jaw, and spinning the knob, using the jaw to develop the clamping force. And reversing that when replacing the next piece of identical wood. He knew people would spend more time fritzing with two ends of a vice, even with the sophisticated hardware he had designed, and that they would have less clamping power, than with the tiny knobs, but using the jaw itself as the clamp. Of course if the jaw if filled from side to side, you only have the knobs or levers to work with and the ones you specify on the Moxon are up to the job. But his insight of using the jaw is still a pretty good idea when cycling through a bunch of drawer parts. I think a lot of people will get into the habit of releasing just one side, but that is not the whole process, it is dropping the weak hand to jaw plate, and using that to hold the work, until the strong hand lets go, and can spin the knob.
Hey Rob, I just completed this vise and it works great. I have a Sawstop PCS 36" 3HP table saw. One issue however is that the vise is wide enough that the motor cover which normally hinges out below the vise gets caught on the bottom of the vise. Just thought you would want to know.
Using a version of this idea and inexpensive Jorgenson Pony vises, I modified my work bench to create a full width (23") moxon vise with 8" wide hand plane smoothed laminated poplar (oak was unfortunately too expensive). Super useful vise
Great idea. A thought or two on the "Bumping Into the Handles" concern; The one thing about the Moxon Vise in a fixed location that are concerning to me are the two threaded rods that stick out - ready and waiting to poke the unwary woodworker in a tender spot. ( I suppose that could be considered just a part of the "Learning Curve".) As to your coarse threads observation, there are woodworkers who prefer all wood bench vises simply because, compared to metal non-quick adjust models, their coarser threads make adjustments that much quicker. As long as they operate smoothly and without binding, it's a trade off.
The mdf part would also work great all they way up to the miter slot on the table saw with a hardwood miter bar attached to the mdf the magnets are good to but hey I’m a rookie I look up to you guys thanks mr cosman
Brilliant, as usual, Rob. Would you consider a slight camber to the moving jaw? Since stock rarely leaves the planer in a dead flat condition, one might choose to use the bellied side facing in. Could help to keep the wide boards from vibrating in the middle, since the tendency of clamping down on the portion of the jaws cantilevered past the stock is to bend them slightly, leaving the center with little or no pressure at all. And I'll bet you have a cambered caul or two with your glue-up table, no?
Very clever and nicely executed idea! Was thinking you could clamp in a longer piece of wood lengthwise with the overhang extended toward the front of the saw to use as infeed support for a wider piece of plywood. Would only give you support along one side of the sheet but might be helpful for balancing the beginning of a cut. Not standing in front of my saw right now so just thinking out loud ;)
This is excellent! One observation. If you counterbored the back board for the nut you wouldn’t have so much to remove from the front chop. Probably not a big deal though.
Overall good idea Rob! Finally a moxon vise without the stud sticking way out which is one of my pet peeves about moxon Vise but yours doesn't seem to have this well done! You'll have to do now is get a table $1,500 cast iron table saw to attach it to🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂
I put a piece of walnut in that spot and use it as a place to hang my headphones, glasses and a small brush. But it makes a vice location is a good idea for people like myself that use an assembly bench and not a work bench.
great video and idea. the only down side is this design does not elevate the vice to a higher level so u do not need to bend your back so much when sawing dovetails.
Cool idea. I get why you wouldn't put finish on a piece of MDF like that, one that will get chewed up, but to me it's worth it to rub some paste wax on it and buff it off. Ends up being a lot more pleasant to work on, it will probably last a little longer, and it doesn't dry my hands out form handling it.
The outer half of the vice where you made the bevel looks laminated on the inner face. Is this just a trick of the light because of bevel leaves about a 1/4 inch shoulder on inner side of the piece?
How much length does the vice plus wooden jaws plus handles add to the width of the table saw? My saw is on casters and needs to fit in an area for storage. Thanks in advance.
I noticed that Rob is installing this vise on a 5HP SawStop. Will this install work with the 3HP SawStop which has the motor protruding on the same side that this Moxon vise is being installed on?
This is the Industrial Cabinet Saw (ICS) with a 3hp, but it shouldn’t be a problem on the Professional Cabinet Saw (PCS), those cast iron wings are designed to have additions.
Don't really need it, but kinda of want to make one now just to have an extra wood vise in the shop. Never know when you'll need a spare, plus it fills up those darn 3 empty holes on my tablesaw!
Rob, another Canadian here. Did you obtain the vise kit from Woodcraft in the US or does somebody sell it here in Canada? (I checked to see if you sell it.) Thanks! PS. I’m quite tall and am considering mounting it on my workbench.
Great! I'll be installing one of those! Shouldn't I be paying a few bucks in lieu of 'patent royalties' to the inventor, just out of fairness? Anyway, I'm inclined to make the space between the tightening bolts just slightly larger than the largest width working piece I'm likely to want to clamp vertically ... that could be for dovetailing, which I won't be doing seriously until I attend one of Rob's courses! ... or it could be other vertical work ... if the bolts are any further apart than the widest piece you'll ever work on, it seems to me that it encourages bowing forces in the moving vice jaw, and or difficulties in keeping that jaw parallel while clamping ... for horizontal clamping, which I can see as possibly being useful for planing long edges or even, if set up carefully, as an alternate registration fence for the saw when using a sled, then having the bolts moved a bit closer together likely has no effect on that clamping action ... just my 2 cents on a very interesting development in machine versatility! Cheers, Farmer John, Ontario
I walk. I can’t assume the majority of the audience are using sharp rocks no can I assume they have every piece of equipment known to man. I aim for the middle. Save up, drill presses are the least expensive motorised tools.
Nice! You had enough rod length wasted to get at least another half inch jaw capacity….I wonder why you wouldn’t exploit that? Better hope your next workpiece isn’t two and three eighths inch thick 😂. Neat job, very tidy finish.
I really enjoyed the video of this product. You make it look very straightforward, which builds confidence that I can also do it. My thought is this, I love it the way it is, but would it be better to work with the tightening wheels if they had small handles on them so you could turn it with just one hand on each side. I have Rheumatoid Arthritis, and to open my hand that far across the whole wheel would be very hard and painful. However, it had a small handle that stood out on the front of the wheel, similar to the way I adjust the quill at the end of my lathe. 🙂🙂 Your thoughts?
Times like this when one feels as though maybe one should not have sold the General 3HP saw for the Inca 249 table saw. Nah, I don't regret it, but one does pass on all the great ideas that cluster around standard saws.
Not so sure about the springs: I don't think they add much value, as it is not hard to pull the jaw. But the downside is that they add friction to the wheels, and it looks like they don't spin freely anymore. Without the springs, clamping should be faster, and opening as well.
Do you mean this set? Quite different knob hardware though. taytools.com/products/moxon-vise-hardware-kit-w-2-each-8-x-3-4-10-threaded-rods-not-acme-threads-2-each-4-1-2-cast-knobs-4-each-3-4-nuts-and-washers-jaw-lining-leather-2-each-12-f-style-clamps
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Probably both. Looks like a feasible alternative to a dedicated bench/mount. Are there any function/usability limitations over a permanent bench mount? Thanks.
Limitations??? probably not. You are correct its low. This idea was really for folks that dont have a workbench. If you have a workbench this is a great vise for a workbench
That looks like a great idea, especially the springs. I'd suggest getting some of Andrew Klein's cork rubber for inside the vise, just to add some grip. It's pretty cool stuff. You might also mention, when measuring for a hole for the threaded rod, make sure it's low enough on the wood that it will clear the bottom of the table saw metal, I don't think I heard you mention that when measuring it.
I could see where there could be a problem if the spring coil pitch matched the thread pitch at some point in the range it can open. Wouldn't it be a pain if the spring wire fell into the trough of the threads and prevented you from tightening the vice without finagling the wheels and the spring and the item you are trying to hold? There's a reason for capturing the thread to the moving jaw while winding the screw into the fixed jaw. It's because it works and springs don't.
Rob: Finished end vise on my sawstop today using this video! A great idea and great addition. I made mine out of ash, and used a benchcrafted hardware package that I already had purchased. Thanks!
That is a fantastic idea. Even if you have a strong bench, it seems like something that could still come in handy. For non-climate controlled shops, would you suggest a piece of plastic in between the wood and the table saw? The wood may not absorb enough moisture to cause rust on the iron surface. In St. Louis, where I live, it is very humid in the summer so I'm always battling rust on my metal surfaces so I would rather be safe than sorry.
Thats awesome. I guess looking around my own shop it sparks ideas for other work holding possibilities I never really looked at before besides on the ole work table. 👍
Im feeling pretty good that I basically had the same idea just a few weeks ago. I don’t have a joiners bench and I was struggling with work holding for hand tools. So I recently put dog holes in my shop made router table (double laminated Baltic birch) on the side of my table saw and it made an amazing mini bench. Not a moxon but a couple hold downs on the face or top give me more than enough.
