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You can use any european method with natural components, used by centuries and don't cost yo this price. Anyway en Europe using wooden instruments in the kitchen for instance is prohibited by higigienics.
If you have a business where shipping or delivery time is important, this would have a major impact. I never feel comfortable sticking a smelly project in a box to a customer. Thanks James, I will visit the site to see if there are long term tests they’ve done for color!
Holy Crap. I'm impressed. I have a small shop and make tabletops for a living. This really would be a game changer. I'm going to go check it out now. Thanks for sharing!
There have been companies producing uv cured wood finishes for years now. All of them are expensive tho. I doubt this company actually physically produces this product on its own factory line. Someone else is likely producing and packaging for them. That said, they still might be your best source.
Keep in mind it goes three times further than solvent based finishes so one quart is really three quarts. Being able to do all your finish coats in one go, inside, and then immediately use the furniture is also worth something. Can’t expect it to be the same price as polyurethane.
I but you can get the same result with a water washable 3d printing resin. You can but 3d print resin for resin printers and they now offer water washable versions. They all cure with UV light, that is how resin printers work. You can buy 1kg for 20 to 30$ and I can almost bet you could find one that gives you the exact same result. Just my 2cents.
A non-negligible difference might be the smell. AFAIK, the 3D printing resins *can* be rather smelly, requiring good ventilation. So they have some sort of VOCs. Since uncured resin is considered toxic, I would be careful with this uncured wood finish and avoid getting it on skin.
Happy to see UV acrylic make its way into so many useful applications! I will almost certainly be using this for my desk. It's amusing because I've been wearing variations on the formula for nail enhancements, where it has been a staple product for over a decade! Thank you for this great tip!
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
Wow that’s insane!! Definitely a game changer. To eliminate drying time, drying space in the shop and not have to worry about it curing until you want it to. Incredible!
I've had great success using clear 3d printer resin to finish kitchen knife handles. You can get a liter for $20, it's extremely durable, and it sands and polishes out to a beautiful finish. To cure it, a UV LED lamp or flashlight will do the trick for small objects.
@@Shangster949 The 3d printer resins do stink though and word is frequent contact can cause sensitivities. Though that was my thought at first too. This must be something different but probably using similar chemistry.
Cam from Black Tail Studios mentioned wearing thicker darker gloves and long sleeves when using the UV light finishes. He mentioned feeling a bit sunburned after using a handled UV light to cure his finish and talked to a medical professional friend who said that those UV lights are significantly more powerful than UV from the sun. Don't want skin cancer of course.
Yep he did and if you plan to use UV cured finish I would strongly advise to do when you doing hand curing, but in this case he has separate UV curing room with ceiling mounted lights so he probably just walk out and turns lights on for 2 - 3 min.
He has a much more intense industrial UV light that blasts wayyy more light than seen here. Always good to be protected but the light quantity from this is probably less than 5% of the one Cam is using.
@@loganscelina Yes, agree. The lights used with this product are the same kind of UV you would see at a "Blacklight party", and no one gets sunburned by those. The one Cam uses is more akin to a tanning bed, and exposure to that will light you up. The cost of the handheld light sold for use with this product is $289, the cheap light for used with Vesting LED oil is $1,000. That's not the one Cam is using. He's using one 4 or 5 time larger than that in his videos and is over $4,000, which of course, didn't come out of his pocket. So this is a BIG difference. And the Vesting oil appears to be for indoor use only. So this is a REALLY big deal. I can't wait to try it. Scott from Japan
Thank god I found this video before I bought arm-r-seal and a respirator. Just finished my walnut butcher block bar top with the satin, and it's beautiful. It is shockingly easy to apply, and I'm amazed at how little I used on 14 feet of butcher block. Wish I could share pictures here. Highly recommend!
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
And it expires in a year, so it's an ongoing expense if you're an amateur who doesn't use 3 quarts of finish in a year. Think I'll stick with my fumes.
@@StumpyNubs I mean, the price will go down in a few years if this turns into a viable product and a larger manufacturer picks it up. Economies of scale and selling this in single job quantities will do wonders to the price, but until then...
The thing is, if you replace a varnish with an 8 hour recoat time that has to be sanded between coats this is literally saving you an entire day of finishing. The varnish I use is about $75/qt so I'm spending an extra $75 but I'm getting my job out the door a day sooner and saving several hours in labor. Definitely worth it from a business perspective
Low budget alternative: The Sun emits pretty solid UV and I bet if you pick the right day it won't take much longer under direct sunlight. Might be an interesting test!
Have you ever tried Odie’s oil? Beautiful results, easy to use and non-toxic. It is also important to note that not all compounds that are volatile are toxic. Odie’s gives off a really enjoyable, non-toxic scent. No respirators.
omg. i have been sealing my wood windchimes with led/uv top coat gel nail polish for yrs. same thing. also impervious to acetone. has to be filed or sanded off. amazing the uses of such a versatile product that crosses many media's including with uses and applications. mind blown.
Did you read the SDS? I particularly liked this sentence, "Product can undergo hazardous, exothermic polymerization". There's 9 pages of warnings and cautions ! I think this is the most hazardous finish I have ever heard of . The fact that it has no odor makes it more dangerous not less. Keep the phone number of your local poison control office handy.
Yeah uh that's a bad take. All resins can undergo exothermic polymerization, that's how they cure. I don't know of a wood finish that wouldn't have a couple of pages in an MSDS sheet either. Just call it what it is, a UV resin finish. Not new nor unsafe.
They sds is talking about in liquid form. There is no data on the cured form. My concern is it food safe. It seems that it isn't. Therefore don't use it on food preparation surfaces like spoken about in the video.
@@bobbray9666 So your an expert in that area are you? We don't have acetone in our gut if we did I might agree with you. The base ingredients are known (SDS) to be toxic, as the product is cured all of those toxins stay in the finish and don't evaporate away, that means they can accumulate in your body and be broken down by acids AND organisms. You don't need to be an expert to understand that basic fact.
@@bobbray9666A thing doesn't have to react with the food to be dangerous. The thing itself can be dangerous. Just think of poisons, radioactive elements, microplastics, etc to help conceptualize this.
Another company that specializes in UV cured finishes like this is Solarez, they are based out of CA but they have all kinds of finishes and resources on their site for application tips. And they aren't expensive either. It takes a while to get used to working with them but they work great. UV cured finishes have a lot of great use cases. Another great company that sells waterborne lacquers(yes water based lacquer. Each coat remelts the one below it like a solvent lacquer) is EMTech. The catch being that they technically still use a solvent but one that doesn't have harmful air quality issues. Propylene Glycols (rather than Ethylene Glycols which do).
I use Solarez “I Can’t Believe it’s Not Lacquer” on my ukuleles. I cure it with inexpensive UV LED bulbs I bought on Amazon. 4 bulbs for $45. I have a small ”tanning booth” with aluminum foil lined walls where I hang the ukuleles from a vertical rotisserie. The bulbs are built into one corner. This method works well. The Solarez goop is much less expensive. My testing suggested a 5 minute cure in the booth did the trick, but I generally cure for 20 minutes before light sanding between coats. My ukuleles have been getting frequent playing with no issues for four years.
What a great idea looks like that would be such a game changer. Just hope that as time goes the cost will come down some make it affordable for us all. Thanks for sharing James
As a Beekeeper, I would greatly appreciate your recommendations for an external treatment on pine and/or cedar? I would love to show off the beauty of the wood. My wife or grandbabies will want to "help" by painting or decorating the hives so the bee's will not be misoriented. 🙂 Thank you!
Another finish worth looking at is System 3's WR-LPU, (water reduced linear poly urethane). It can be used with a few drops of hardener mixed in. We used it as a uv protective final finish over their Clear Coat epoxy. The LPU is extremely durable. We used it on wooden knife handles and even after years of use there was little evidence of wear. We sprayed it with an air brush, though it can also be applied with a brush.
sounds like resin for 3D printing, also the bottle looks same. it is really awesome they are doing this for wood finishing. How is mechanical durability agains scrathes and dents?
All glassy finishes have to be achieved by fine sanding. Unsure about the machineability of this but I doubt it's worse than poly. Plus no guessing if it's ready to buff.
Hello, Mr. Hamilton; I was all set to try me some of that Clean Armor Wood Finish. Then I saw a quart is only $154US. Well, believe it or not, I decided I'll have to live without it. I'm really partial to an oil finish. In fact, I've been using organic flax seed oil for my last 6 or 8 projects. I buy the kind used as a supplement (food grade) at amazon, $15US for 16oz. I've used it on plane & saw totes, it gives the wood a great finish, IMO. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Yes, it's about twice the cost per square foot of coverage of a high quality polyurethane. (Give or take.) But I like to hear about exciting things even if they don't end up being a perfect fit for every shop or budget. :)
Living in Canada, I usually use SamaN hybrid varnish. It's a water based oil finish that dries fully in about 1 hour. You can just wash the brush under the tap and it barely smells anything. And it's much cheaper than this. I think you should check it out as it's also available in the US.
Anyone looking for a bit more affordable finish that is also low VOC I’m a huge fan of Osmo. You can apply indoors, it dries overnight, and they also make a stain and finish all in one that is super easy to apply. I used the stain plus finish with a second clear topcoat on a desk I made recently and it came out amazing.
Looks interesting. A couple questions, can you cure it with sunlight? Can you hand rub it? I love hand rubbed lacquer finishes, and this would be great if you can use the same technique of wet sanding and buffing. Being able to sunlight cure would be useful for those who want to try it, but not invest in a UV light.
I would have like to see how it would stand up to the water ring test from the bottom of hot or cold beverages. Looks like a product I'm going to be trying.
I've seen a few other similar finishes on RU-vid, I like that this one looks like a more traditional polyurethane. I'm waiting for someone to come out with a body filler glazing that is UV cured. The extra one time would be fantastic, not to mention getting rid of the smell.
Cure time is marvelous. Ever against the chemicals. I will buy this soon! Thanks A Saginaw Michigander wood worker! It is way expensive and so is the light.🤦♂🤦♂
My question is how will this work on my boat? Is it UV resistant? When it is time to recoat must you sand down to bare wood or just lightly sand and apply a new coat?
Great recommendation on the finish product; however, keep in mind that long skin exposure to UV light increases the chances of skin cancer, it would be helpful to recommend wearing dark gloves and dark long sleeve when applying the UV light
So some background information about what I am about to say: I also live in Michigan. My wife is a scientist who works for a company in the same industry as UL, though I won't say which laboratory she works at for obvious reasons. She specifically has spent the last decade in testing VOCs of hundreds of different coatings. For generations we've been using these coatings and then putting our kids' cribs in the same room as they off gas for years or decades. So while it may be inconvenient, facing the reality of new information can be hard, but it's not arbitrary. That said, I have been using Low VOC (my wife says there is no such thing as "No VOC" I'm inclined to listen to the scientist living drinking coffee in my kitchen) coatings for about half a decade now. Mostly sherwin finishes because that's what my employer buys, but I quite like their water based lacquers, alkyd urethane enamels, and even the low VOC latex I use to paint drywall. It's all reasonably easy to work with, the clean-up is soap and water, and the water based lacquer I have been using to refinish cabinet doors after the original lacquer has split, cracked and flaked away has proved much more durable over time. I love the look of the product in this video and I can't wait to to try some. I'd share it with my dad, a cabinet maker, but I know he won't listen. It has been hard enough to convince him to change the filters on his respirator (when he wears one) much less convince him that polyurethane is phasing out. I know you can only get a quart of oilbased stuff at a time in Michigan without filing paperwork.
for the cost, i think id stick with shellac as it does mostly the same aside from durability. but it is repairable. this stuff basically sounds like shellac with a hardner agent of some kind.
One thing Yall missed but I didn't because I live in the Philippines and Portugal. This is just a photosetting acrylic therefore plastic. It is the nemesis of termites and all wood boring critters
I'd like to know how compatible it is with wood stains, alcohol, water and oil, will it have a problem going over any of them. Can I add color to the finish ( not just the sealer ) to make a toner. But still could be very useful for 'in home ' work, in a customers home.
Seems like the VOC Pushers where holding back on us all along! When push comes to shove, they CAN create effective formulations, even adding important benefits, and STILL reduce the VOC content! The printing industries experienced this awakening by our ink makers about 25 years ago. Most inks are MUCH better today!
I sure would appreciate it if you could answer a question for me. I am not a woodworker at this point. I am getting ready to install a wood slat wall in a room that will house two fairly larger saltwater reef aquariums. I want to “stain” the wood slats to a different color other than natural wood. I also need to protect them from humidity in the room (from the aquariums). I am wondering what products (type of wood for slats and stain/protectant) someone that really understands working with wood would use? I do not have the ability to spray a finish. Not sure if you answer questions or not but thought I would reach out.
I'm assuming that there's no discoloration either, like many polymers (acrylics and some urethanes)? This would make this stuff kinda like a clear version of 3D printing (SLA) resin. I'm almost tempted to borrow someone's machine with some of this stuff, except I would probably wreck their build platform.
Do you recommend using water quickly wiped off to swell pores, or will the Thinner Sealer raise the grain before final sanding for best smoothest surface? Also what wattage UV Light is recommended? What colors? Can I get a "Piano" finish with this product?
Next time I use it I intend to use water to raise the grain. Info on the UV lights can be found on the page where they sell them, which is at mywoodcutters.com. On that site you will also find more videos, and in one of them he shows a highly polished gloss.
Far more expensive than you think. In Canada 1 Liter is $187 plus $54 in shipping plus $66 in duties and taxes. That's $307 per liter. You can buy a heck of a lot of Osmo or Rubio for that.
only reason I ever use oil is because it gives an unbeatable depth to the grain. While this has some interesting advantages, Im not sure it gives that same effect. Looks pretty similar to what Id expect of a waterborne poly.
The premise is very cool, but I think I would compare it to hardwax oils, most of them also don't have VOC's, they do take longer to fully cure, but don't require drying, and dust is also not an issue with them. I wouldn't pour acetone on them right after applying the finish but generally installation right away is fine, just instruct the client to only use it lightly within the next few weeks. In most cases, between hardwax oils and this, I am not sure the cost is worth it, the finish is expensive, but the uv lights are next level expensive...
Your only go with UV curing resin? You should try the cheap stuff, there's very little difference. And no smell or voc is a long way from no danger from these uv resins until it sets.
I'm in a very old house with white oak t&g flooring. The previous owner stripped and sanded the finish and used only bona brand clleaner and polish. Can I use this or do I need to strip the polish off first?
James, I recently ordered Clean Armor finish and UV light for some low impact interior applications. Do you know if the Clean Armor product with or without a ceramic coating have been used on kitchen counter tops, or other high traffic/impact surfaces? And, if so, how it has performed? Thanks
I'll stick with Odies Oil - Great finish, easy to apply, extremely low VOC and probably just from the orange oil, super durable and while a little expensive, it's pretty economical.
Wayment... is this similar to the UV cured nail polishes like Gellish? I've been telling the wife for years that they need to turn this stuff into a commercial coating.
James, I like learning about new and interesting things, too, even if they don’t become core to my routine. As students of history, you and I know that all innovations don’t last. Only after time and experience… I don’t normally read viewers’ comments. Good grief. Talk about dangerous gases. After reading just some of them, I’d like to see Alphabet charge $1 per comment, and split the proceeds with you. The monetization of yak. I would have gladly paid $1 just to say this. Keep exploring, teaching, and cutting wood. It’s still early, but I may need a cold one after reading the comments section. I’ve earned it, my friend.
I understand that some people's criteria are ease of use, low voc, durable, etc. My criteria is non-toxic, and i was puzzled that the word "toxic" didnt come up once in the video, over 8 minutes of talking without ever mentioning what its made of?
Sounds similar to solarez. I’ve tried solarrez on a couple guitars, but didn’t have the best luck because you need to sand in between coats. It was just too easy to sand through and ruin the guitar. If I hid can adhere to itself without sanding between, and without leaving whiteness lines, I hat would be game changing. I wonder if it can get that super high gloss shine needed for my guitar bodies. I may have to give it a try.
I think my other comment is getting blocked. But in short it’s the same product, it’s an acrylic or ester resin with a uv catalyst. I had the same problem as you with solarez and I think I know why. In order to get these products to dry tack free they add wax surface agent which rises to the surface before curing. This prevents you from building up layers without sanding. That’s a problem when solarez is designed to level in thin layers. Laminating resin on the other hand does not contain wax and will stick to the previous layer so you can build it up. The solution is to buy silmar 249a uv resin and cure between coats but only add wax in the final gloss coat.
@@devinwhall9407 Yea Solarez is bad news if you sand through coats. Witness lines are terrible, stopped using it. So yea, how does this stuff sand through coats???
@@billysmether6237 so to correct myself simtec is ester based, solarez has both ester and acrylic based and this product looks to be an acrylate which can be acrylic or epoxy. In my opinion acrylics are great as a thin penetrating sealer and also fees good left sanded. Can be used as topcoat but you will probably see the witness lines in burn through. I have not tried this product yet. But judging by the looks it does not level out as well as icbinl. The solarez gloss is thicker but still requires sanding between coats because of the added surface agent, aka styrene wax. As of right now the closest I have seen for my use case is simtec sprayed in 3 coats, then cured. I bought some spray equipment, going to try spraying the silmar surfboard resin without wax I mentioned above. Should give me the same as solarez gloss but with the ability to recoat. I will also try a brush finish as well. I will let you know how it goes.
While this video is an "infomercial"(sponsored by the retailer, not the finish itself), most of the videos I make are tutorials. I just made a cabinet door tutorial, a finger joint tutorial, a router table build, a sharpening tutorial, a loose tenon joinery tutorial... those are all in the last 60 days alone. This has never been a "watch me build something channel." It is focused on the workshop- tips, techniques, tools etc.
Yes, it's about twice the cost per square foot of coverage of a high quality polyurethane. (Give or take.) But I like to hear about exciting things even if they don't end up being a perfect fit for every shop or budget. :)
