100% agree with the use of strong magnets on the oil filter. Bought my 22 year old vehicle 16 years ago. Changed it over to synthetic oil and added magnets to the filter. Oil and filter get changed every 3 K miles. Just passed 532 K on the odometer.
@@jjknott1591 10 - 15K miles seems insane. Every reliable mechanic that I know warns against following the "extended mileage" marketing claims for the top end synthetic oils. They know I always change my own oil, so they have not benefit from making that claim. The vehicle manufactures don't care what you do to your engine after it's out of warranty. 3K may be overkill, but it's a relatively cheap insurance policy to avoid much more expensive issues down the road.
@@qk.6535 The vehicle is a 1999 GMC Safari SLT van with the 4.3 Liter Vortec V6 engine. I use 6 magnets that are 3/4" W X 1-3/4" L X 1/4" thick. They are a utility magnet that I picked up at a Home Depot and just apply them around the filter can. I also secure with a zip-tie, but I've never had one fall off.
I have to say that your video and your points are pretty good. I was in charge of a testing program to evaluate the effectiveness of automotive magnetic filtration for a company in that business. We tested our magnets, and the magnets of competitors. You are correct that they do pre-filter the oil before in reaches the pleats. If one changes their oil at the recommended intervals there is no danger of the filter media becoming clogged, so it is not about that. However, the filter media is not effective at trapping very small material which still causes engine wear. To make a filter with media so fine that it traps the nano particles is not practical, as in would be expensive, would need almost constant replacement, and would reduce the flow of the lubricant. One thing I should point out from our testing, is that not all brands of oil filter magnets are equally effective, some are pretty poor at it. I tested the brand you are using in your video, and it is one of the good ones. What you may not know, is that good oil filter magnets do not only attract and capture magnetic material but some non-magnetic material also. That may seem counterintuitive, but it is true. I will not go into the details of how that works here, however the phenomenon is well known to those who study magnetics. What I would add, is that in our testing, we also employed the services of oil analysis companies which can measure and report back, the cleanliness of the oil, what chemicals and contaminants are present, the acidity of the oil, the state of the it's additives etc. This sometimes will reveal that your oil does not even need changing yet. Of course, this testing is not free, and probably does not make economic sense for most motor vehicle owners, but the results can sure be interesting.
Assuming the magnets do anything any particle small enough to pass through a quality filter is not big enough to cause significant wear in the engine anyway so its pointless to filter them. Sure the magnet can affect non-magnetic metals passing through the magnetic field by the induction affect but this only slows then particles movement it does not attract non- magnetic particles and hold them. MAGNETS ON OIL FILTERS ARE POINTLESS.
@@mrsmith8436 EVERYTHING in your post above has been PROVEN WRONG. Again and again. You clearly know nothing about magnets, their different types, and/or their operational characteristics.
@@mrsmith8436 Most authorities are in disagreement with you. The tiny nano-particles that pass through the filter media cause far greater damage than the larger particles. They act like a polishing compound, damage seals and sensors.
Oil Bypass Filters catches extremely small particles that go through spin on filters. Not only iron particles, but also aluminum, carbon etc. However strong filter magnets are great to use.
@Fred Wills If you had studied medicine, you would know that red blood cells fix oxygen in tissues thanks to the iron contained in hemoglobin, their red pigment.
My self propelled Toro doesn't have a drain plug. I recently saw a video saying to magnetize the dipstick. Brilliant idea! I have done it but haven't run it long enough to see what it may catch. May not catch much of anything but it can't possibly hurt anything either. We'll see.
We use oil filter magnets on our fleet and usually keep them until they hit 500K miles. You can also use the PF61 oil filter on your truck. It’s longer with more filtration area. No need to add extra oil, works just fine. Great video!
For you guys who change your oil hot, you are correct. One of the many additives in engine oil is a dispersant that keeps dirt particles in your oil suspended while the engine is running. This is so small oil passages in your engine don't get clogged up. It is better to change your oil within 10 minutes of shutting it off, after that those dirt particles are settling in the bottom of the oil pan. Good video and I use a magnet and a bypass filter.
Always done hot oil changes, my grandfather taught me to do that. Cold oil moves slower anyways meaning heavier particles will have sank to the bottom and will likely stay there since the flow won't readily move it at that point.
@@SilvaDreams Your Grandfather was not aware of the new, multi-viscosity engine oils, which flow best when COLD. Our '39 Willys coupe used straight 30-weight, and was drained HOT. The famous 95 MERC uses 5-W-20, and is drained COLD.
Quick tip: You can punch a hole at the bottom of the filter with a punch or screwdriver before you remove it to avoid spillage. Good video, keep 'em coming.
Not only do I do that on my Suburban but I use a ziplock sandwich bag after most comes out of the hole and am able to completely remove without spillage
I'll try that. I'll just make sure I can turn it before I hole it. I holed a filter with an oil filter wrench once. Almost unzipped the filter. I didn't think I was going to ever get the filter off. Fortunately, I had the tools on hand. Never occurred to me to do it on purpose.
Should do a test and see the PPM of metallic contaminates. Test the oil pre and post filter with and with out the magnet so you can see how much the magnet really does catch.
I have done exactly that on my volkswagen Eos, I had 9000 kilometres on the oil then I got an oil sample, I then put the magnets on the oil filter and drove around for 300 kilometres, then I got another oil sample and send both oil samples off to the laboratory for testing
Remember: to Reset you your maintenance light you need to put your key in the ignition, be facing due North on a windy day in December and spin widdershins 3x while humming the shanty from Gilligan's Island
Couldn't be easier on my Toyota. Key on, engine off. Set odometer to Trip A. Key off. Press and hold the odometer button, and turn the key on engine off. The odometer displays flashing dashes which count down each second as you hold the odometer button down. After about 5 or 6 seconds, the odometer flashes and goes back to Trip A. Release the button, and your oil life light is reset. The GM key on, engine off and 5 pumps of the gas pedal is very easy too but it can be picky sometimes.
Not true, That procedure failed repeatedly for me and then I realized I wasn't wearing purple polka dotted underpants. Switched my shorts out for the proper mfgr recommended type and bingo!
It's amazing how much oil a filter will take when you pre-fill it. The low oil light will not go on on start up. Without the pre-fill it could stay on for 2-3 seconds...
@@2010ngojo try telling that to my 3 falcons if you don’t pre fill the filter , you will never be able to convince me otherwise , if I don’t pre-fill the filter the valve train rattles for at least 2-4 seconds which is very unnerving when you know vital components are being starving of operating oil pressure for that not so unimportant amount of time . The fords enable me to pre-fill due to the upward angle of the mounting , where as my daughters Toyota RAV4 has a downward angle mount that does not allow for pre filling & you should hear the ugly noises it makes when dry starting , makes me shiver every time. If you can’t pre-fill due to the angle of the filter mount you can build oil pressure by “ flood priming “ most petrol engines by putting your pedal to the floor & cranking for 5 seconds or so , the motor will not fire on a modern injected engine , turn ignition off then restart as usual without your foot on the go pedal , it makes a huge difference as you have already built oil pressure around the engine & particularly the top end WITHOUT FIRING IT UP FIRST . It will also help limp a compromised engine , say ohc engine with a bad roller rocker , along , for a while hopefully long enough until you have the time &/or money to fix it .
Thanks for this most convincing display of the effectiveness of magnets. One technique that I used to use when changing my oil was to sweep the inside bottom of the oil pan with my mechanic's telescoping magnet. I would get out significant amounts of metallic paste on the magnet. I had the same thing done on my differential and manual transmission during break in oil changes, with the same results.
Good tip. I have yet to buy a new car. I always change the engine oil, transmission and differentials lubricants to my favorite. Just watching the mettallic sludge ooze out as the last drains out is reason enough for me to use magnets.
I like magnets for aiding in filtration it allows the filter media to filter solely the non ferrous contaminates. I've always thought it was a great idea!
I think adding additional magnets one or two, to an automatic transmission oil pan is actually a pretty good idea. There's some aluminum and bronze and brass in the automatic transmission but not much.
Not really aiding in filtration at all, the more blocked a filter is the better it filters. As long as you're changing at correct intervals it won't get too blocked to cause oil flow restriction
Obviously, every little bit helps. Iron particles in the oil will act like super fine grit sandpaper in the engine. The Ford 6R80 transmission has recently been "upgraded" with extra magnets in the pan, because the tiny metal shavings would coat the electronics in it and make them act up... and that trans had a pretty big filter already. So, magnets do work if even the manufacturers add extra ones to fix issues.
I've been using filter magnets for at least 20yrs. Two yrs ago, I put them on my riding lawn mower oil filter. I service it at the end of each "grass growing" season. At the end of last yr, my oil was far and away cleaner than any previous yr's oil change, which was a pleasant surprise. With all my vehicles, except my wife's new Jeep, I prefill the filter with oil. I also drain the oil hot, which speeds the oil draining process and makes for a more thorough drain. I agree the filter magnets are pretty expensive, almost $100 for a pair of them, but they are reusable, and last 'forever'. I wish they were cheaper, but for me, I figure it's worth it in the long run.
I believe in doing my oil changes cold, it allows most the oil to drain to the pan since it was warm last time it was parked. Warming the oil only causes the oil to be spread through the engine and you won’t get as much of the oil out as if when it was cold. The warm oil thing never makes sense to me. But I love this video!! Very well done. Gonna do the magnet thing from now on.
@@Twolife those are bullet proof engines , my grandmother gave my youngest brother an old Mountaineer with that motor. 289000 on Odometer using neodymium magnets & strict OCI Other than a simple rear main seal , absolutely bullet proof
@@Marco-fi6gv what truck do you have.? Might I ask what oil you run & at what intervals? I use M1 - 15w50 synthetic race proven oil , thicker the better since my chev is an oil burner every 4 to 5 k
@@thebaron8783 I've got a 2006 F-150. I've always used synthetic and I used to use m2 exclusively, but for a while I just started getting whatever was on sale at AutoZone as long as it was a quality oil. But a while back I started running amsoil signature series and that's all I run on my vehicles now. I also alternate between the Ford/motorcraft filter and the amsoil filter. The amsoil filters are rated for longer life and they filter smaller particles than most. My owner's manual bdays to use 5w20, but I've used 5w30 pretty much from the start. They only recommended that because of fuel economy I think. Damn, you're running 15w50? That's some thick ass oil, especially at start up. That would make me nervous, but I get it. If you're leaking and it's got time/mileage then the tolerances aren't as tight anymore, so thicker will help. Hey, it's obviously working for you.👍
Well done. You are doing us all a service by showing the general public this idea of using a magnet on the oil filter. I believe this simple step has a significant affect of decreasing engine wear; I've been doing it for years myself. Unfortunately, most auto manufactures are now using a disposable cartridge style filter, so there is no steel housing on which to place the magnet. As a result, I'm putting extra magnets on the oil pan. Hint: you can prefill your new oil filter will new oil before you install it, in your case; or half fill it if your engine design has a side mounted oil filter. Why do that? There is no oil delivery delay when you start the engine after an oil and filter change: an empty filter needs a moment to fill before the oil gets pumped to the engine. Not a big deal, but every little bit helps.
That is a mucho excelente idea. It has been a well known fact for decades that approximately ninety percent of engine wear occurs in the first ten seconds of starting an engine, how much more when the oil filter is not "primed " or filled with oil to prevent a dry start. Muchissimas Gracias.
Always prime the filter so to speak. I do it on everything with an engine even my lawn mower and it's now 18 years old and still going strong, well the engine is anyway lol.
If you keep the oil cap on when you first take out the plug, you avoid that huge arch of oil at the beginning. You can then take it out as the flow slows down.
Yup, info same. I figure if it's warm it's going to flow much better and get more of the old oil out along with the contaminants. Once you do it a few times you know exactly where to place things and where the oil is going. Sounds like you've got it down
Fantastic video. It's common sense and an extremely good idea. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised hearing that certain parts of an engine can really benefit from catching particles that make it through a filter. Crank bearings and hydraulic lifters for sure. Keep micro particles out of your lifters. Using a magnet isn't a magic bullet, but it certainly helps. I do it.
One of my favourite tricks for doing an oil change is using a piece of wire, I use an old coat hanger, to allow air to flow between a funnel and the oil jug or oil spout on the engine. So you can pour as fast as you like without having to worry about air bubble coming back through the funnel, or having really slow pour oil. Its cheap its easy and it works great.
I just look at it logically. A filter paper has a certain capacity for junk and crap in it. The magnet takes a lot of that junk and crap and sticks it to the side of the oil filter. Quite strongly too. That means your filter is freed up and has more open surface area to filter the other stuff and be less restrictive for longer meaning more oil flow and better oil performance. Not to mention it could suck in pieces that might have even gotten through the filter. Unless theres something im missing i dont see why you wouldnt just slap one on.
There is no problem using these external magnetic, its not going to hurt anything and yes maybe or maybe not it's going to make any difference but heck it's just great to see someone maintaining their own vehicle! Oh and I loved the funnel - best cheap tip!!
A good oil filter magnet will cost you $10 bucks and last the life of your vehicle, or maybe the life of every vehicle you'll ever own. As they say; "It couldn't hurt".
I use magnets for everything. I also converted my drain plugs to Fumoto ball valves. Allows you to attach a hose and drain to the drain pan. Cleaner and less chance of spilling. Great video!
Thanks for the great video!, after watching your video I,m going to put magnets on my oil filter and as you pointed out what do you have to lose. as I watched the video I thought it would be interesting to do a test by attaching a super magnet to a rod and drag it through the drained used oil and see what it would or might pick up.Doing it on a oil change with a magnet on the filer and then on an oil change which didn,t use a magnet.
It's not a dry start. There's oil on the parts, and the anti-wear additives are adhered to the metal. The oil pump fills the oil galleries very quickly. 2 seconds with no pressure, but oil present, at idle speeds, no load is absolutely zero harm. There's more of a risk of getting foreign debris in the filter during a prefill than a momentary lack of pressure. Remember, whatever gets poured down the center hole is unfiltered oil straight to the crank mains. Bottled isn't necessarily filtered to the micron level that your engine filter will accomplish. A sliver of bottle cap gasket, plastic, etc. isn't a good thing. Two stroke engines can run full throttle, full temp, full load, at several times the rpm of a cranked car engine, for thousands of hours with no oil pressure whatsoever, and certainly no 20wt/30wt oil even present at all. They can do it on literally 1 part thin oil/ per 75 parts of gasoline. It's barely a rust inhibitor at that mix. An oil drenched car engine starting up with a blip absence of pressure doesn't even register on the scale of possible damage.
I second your observations hot oil being thinner carries more crud with it. If you're truly wanting the best filtration nothing beats a bypass filtration setup where 5-10% of oil is routed through a much more efficient filter than the primary filter.
I like to make the oil hot too. And if it's a used car I just purchased or a friends car where the oil looks a little dirty like regular oil changes haven't been done, I buy the cheapest gallon of oil I can find and right after the old oil is out I pour the cheap oil straight thru the hot engine and oil pan. Think of it as a cheap flush. Depending on how dirty the oil is on the next regular change I might do it again. I keep doing it until the new looks clean and translucent even after a month of driving or right up to the next oil change.
@@BigSalP I worked in a shop where they shot kerosene into the drain hole to wash out all the crap before they put the plug back in. I didn't learn to appreciate that until much later. I think it's the right way to do an oil change (if you have a lift especially).
As a youngin I remember old farmers putting bio magnets from cow guts by the drain hole.They attached them to tractor oil pans and would pull them over to the drain plug hole while draining. I tried it on an old pickup. The metal from it was a work of art!
Absolutely agree. This should work and I don't see what it would harm. When I was younger I built several hot rods and I've always been a DIY person when it came to anything that needed to be repaired, especially Automotive. I even did mechanic work professionally for a short while right out of high school. Although I was ASE certified in chassis and alignment not engine overhauls. That said. At the end of the video, you pointed out that people said the particulates never get into the filter itself. Well. That's another argument that you could have made to them. As those particulates get into that filter, they reduces the amount of flow. A reduction in flow no matter how small will create even more ferrous materials. And thus you have the perpetuating cycle of engine damage. But the simple fact that they even mentioned that in the first place shouldn't come as any small surprise because you know, humans.
I like to change the filter first and then drain the oil, this way I don’t take a chance on having the oil slosh out trying to move the drain pan to where the filter is or have the oil filter slip and fall into a pan full of oil and make a mess , great video Jimmy 👍😁
Two things you might be interested in 1) If you say the sky is a beautiful blue in a YT video, while showing a video of it someone will tell you that it is azure, then argue with you on your own video. Logic and critical thinking is not a strong suite with some folks no matter the evidence. 2) If you really want to extend your engine life add a nitrogen filled pressure accumulator to the oil system using a relay added to the start system as the electrical release on the valve controlling it and ignition off as the close. That acts as a pre-lubrication pump to the crank when starting and stores oil at pressure when the engine is off. Great video sir! Perfect for todays youtubers that want to "do it yourself" Thanks for the ride along and the great video quality!
This is a hot debate topic. Personally I dont think you need to fill them at all. The engine still has enough oil film in it to run for a few minutes. That oil filter fills in a few seconds
I love seeing results! Especially unexpectedly positive results. I was thinking at first the magnets really wouldn't do anything, i knew they would pick up metallic bits, but my brain didn't immediately think of the consequence that the filter media will stay cleaner longer since the magnets are catching the particles before they hit the filter. Awesome result.
Great info Jimmy! I'm going to give it a try and see. My wife's Volvo has a plastic housing that hold just a paper filter but guess what...it has a big magnet in the bottom! Must be something to it if those Swedes use 'em!
We've been using magnets on our oil filters for years. Especially in our circle track race engines. It's a good indicator of what's going on in our expensive race engines everytime we cut open a filter. This is nothing new and anybody that calls it snake oil knows pretty much nothing. Most race engine builders demand a magnet.
I use one of those, also magnetic plugs on engine, transmission and differential, plus I put neodymium magnets from old hard drives underneath my engine oil pan. I use high zinc Amsoil in my old classic with solid lifters, plus an Amsoil oil filter.
It sure looks like it is working. Like you said it can keep the filter cleaner longer. It looks like you could fit a second magnet on that filter and get twice the protection. Hey, it sure can’t hurt, so “stick” with it!
I like what you do and agree with a lot of it I have worked in automotive, for years I have always removed the oil filter first it avoids the splash, I have also been that's not a proper oil change I never had a problem I have had vehicles last for about 300,000 miles.
Do you live in the usa or outside of it? I’ve been wanting to order a part from rockauto for the first time but I’m in Ontario and apparently the brokerage fees and whatever else can be a ton of money but you’ll only know when it’s too late so I’ve been putting it off
9:20 very key to make sure the old gasket didn't stick to the engine - had this happen once and thankfully I always check underneath as I start any vehicle after putting fresh oil in. Once you've had a gusher and an OH-*Sh*t moment, you never forget to check.
9:23 -- Any time I'm able to, I always pre-fill the filters. The less dry time an engine has, the longer it's going to last. Also, every car I've ever had gets strong magnets on the oil pan as well as the filter.
Every little helps; magnets are a good solution for cost and simplicity. Also consider a centrifugal type oil filter as added protection for reducing particulates of all element compositions in the oil, not just for the magnetic ferrous particles or relying solely on the pores in the filter to hold onto them. Some OEM's have previously used them, especially heavy duty engine manufacturers (e.g Scania) and are very effective. However, they require additional space for the unit and require energy to spin the cartridge (they are inherently a parasitic loss to oil systems energy to some degree by fundamental principle). So, to be considered for retrofitting to an automotive application, it may require an uprated oil pump for peace of mind. They are definatley worth considering if you're using a long life oil type with longer service intervals and who doesn't like to see some reduction in the waste oils we produce instead of changing oil on short intervals such as every 4k miles? Obviously, with the acidity of the oil increasing over the life caused by things like piston blow, or rich AFR's causing bore wash which is further exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels or other considerations of water content, maybe the short interval oil changes are the simplest solution for longevity if you don't mind producing a bit of oil waste.
its a good idea . Here is good idea that I have used for decades , it was taught to me over 50 years ago. Drain the oil let it drip for 5 minutes then put drain plug back in , add 1/2 quart of fresh oil , leave it for 10 minutes then drain it out . It removes more old oil and crude from sump . Then continue with oil change .
Been a mechanic since 1968 and don't disagree with the use of magnets , best oil and best filters. Long term effect means you could save thousands on engine repairs.
If you have a motor trend subscription, engine masters just did a comparison of oil filters. What they found was that Wix and K&N filters were the clear winners for maintaining oil pressure, but the K&N Gold filters down to 10 microns vs 20 microns for the Wix. I personally have been a fan of the Wix since the early 2000's when I sold them. And random tip - if you have trouble with the oil cooler on the 95 Suburban, you can replace the whole assembly on the motor with the thread adapter for the 2wd C1500 (eliminating the oil cooler lines entirely) and switch back to the older Chevy oil filter - it does clear the front driveshaft. Mine came that way, which I found out partway through the first oil change on my own 95 K1500 Suburban. Glad the parts store is close.
Agree with any and all steps to minimize wear. One step to add is prefilling that oil filter minimizing the time without oil to vital components while filter fills.
It really helps if you buy the right truck to start with. In my opinion, you have the right truck. Probably the best vehicle general motors has ever made.
I wondered though, wouldn't the filter have stopped the metal anyway? But now after considering the magnet as an additional pre-filter, it in theory should help the life of the filter. Great video!!
NO. The filter would not stop ALL of the metal particles. Particles of less than 20 microns will get through most oil filters. The magnet kit gets the tiniest paticles that the filter can't grab.
I used a loud speaker magnet on my 1996 vw sharan. The engine was fine the heater motor stopped working. I’m sure the engine could have done twice as much but with no defrost I traded it in. I loved that car.
great video! i think magnetic plugs or on filter are fine, my advise is if you take filter apart, spread it out on some light colored towels /paper then you can see what is in the filter. also, wipe the mag plug and inside of filter can where magnet was with white towel. use magifing glass to see more detail. chances are if you change oil regularly you wont find much! Im a 30 year airplane mechanic, find lots of problems early. also , next level is sending oil samples to a lab to be profiled. Cheers!
I've been changing my oil at 5k miles or less AND been using filter magnets for years, and when I cut open the filters, there's ALWAYS been black ferrous dust on the inside of the filter reflecting the location of the filter magnets. Note: he didn't need to put the filtermagnets back in the same location to keep the ferrous material "captured". The stuff stays there because the filter wall retains enough residual magnetism to hold the "dust" for the purpose of examination.
Another tip - with the drain plug out - pour some fresh oil into the engine, and do that until it flows clear out of the oil drain hole. For some reason, the oil drain plug is never in the actual bottom of the pan. This method helps flush out some of that oil that sits below drain hole, and also helps flush out some of the old oil that is sitting in the top end. About half a liter of old oil will stay in the engine when doing an oil change, this method helps flush some of that out. Its overkill for sure, but I do it anyway.
Cogent logic & agree with your argument. I will say that it appears your car is a GM Suburban. I have owned a Chevy 2001 K1500 Suburban since I bought it off the lot new in 2000. Today it still runs strong after timely oil and filter changes and regularly towing up to 8K This is a superior vehicle and maintenance as proposed in this video will only prolong its life.
XP filters are good, but I prefer the standard wix. They are made better than most other filters, but you sacrifice some filtration for flow, and depending on how many miles are on the engine, flow > filtration.
The standard WIX filters down to a smaller micron than the XP. The XP has higher capacity and is made with different media inside so can last long drain intervals
Hey, it certainly can't hurt. It looks like it did remove some metal from the oil so it has to help even if it's a little bit. I can't use these because I have a 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner that has a cartridge type filter and the housing on these are either plastic or aluminum. Oh well, I can get one for my Forester though. Thanks.
Great vid, don't disagree with a thing... I'd add a few though. 1) Run the engine immediately before the drain. Yes this means you get a less complete drain but it also means everything is pre-lubed. If you change it often this is IMO much better as the engine's oil system will be delayed at startup after a drain fill. 2) Pre-fill the oil filter, same reason as above, you want to introduce as little air as possible to the oil system. 3) Is a bit more, I change a quart of ATF at each oil change. What I've done on my vehicles is I tee into the transmission oil cooler lines and install a valve. I then idle the engine and drain a quart into a jar using that valve. I'll then add a quart back.
Ive been running magnets on my dirt bike since I was a kid. I did lose 1 a few years that destroyed oil pump and lower end in about 4secs at WOT. I normally run a stainless steel oil filter but while servicing it my buddy stepped on it. I put a paper filter & super glue to attach magnet. The carnage destroyed the evidence. But if I had to guess the glue failed at temp.
if you have steering wheel controls just go to your oil life on your DIC and then press and hold the arrow button. After holding it down for 3-5 seconds it will reset.
@Tilc Rekcil do you have steering wheel controls? It may be different on the Envoy, but I just go to my oil life screen, hold the arrow button down for three to 5 seconds and then it reads "oil life reset" and goes back to 100%.
Great video,and nice to see a mechanic who doesn't look like he,s been in the same overall,s for the past two weeks 😀, I,ll be sticking a magnet on my sump plug TODAY 👍
I actually stopped the video midstream and found this magnet online. Slightly pricey but in the long run it will be in your favor having the mag. Thank you Jimmy.
All the things you have done on both of your suburbans I have adopted to both of my burbs too. Thank you. 172,000 on your subs. Won't take long to 200,000 🙂
Before I undo the oil filter I poke a hole in it with a nail, let it drain and then unscrew it, much cleaner. I've used magnets for years, why wouldn't you ? Like your vids, all good stuff.
i been using magnets on oil filters for many years.& i have never had a old filter that did not have collected super fine particles where the magnet was.its all the evidence i needed that they do work.the less particles in the oil, the better.
People say the metal would've got caught in the media but unless it's an amsoil, royal purple, or even a fram ultra with insane filtration that won't be the case and it still helps in keeping it flowing better and for longer.
One nice neo magnet on bottom of filter is good for me. Wix is the best. You could've just bought a box of plug bolts gaskets. I'm suprised you didn't fill the new filter...
Pre filling takes forever and makes a mess. The oil filter will fill the filter for you after a couple secconds. The magnet on the bottom is ineffective, the magnet needs to be on the side where oil flow actually happens
