I’m a supporter of PowerStack batteries, but I’m not sure how you can say with such certainty that they will last longer. Just because Dewalt says they will last longer doesn’t mean it’s true. It’s too early to tell. They claim double the charge cycles (or whatever longer lifecycle), but since we’ve only had them for a few years, we can’t really be confident that it’s true. If they really wanted to put their money where their claims are, they should have given us a 5 year warranty with these new batteries. Here’s a potential situation, let’s say I have 2 5Ah batteries, one normal 18650 cells, and one PowerStack. Let’s say I use them both and do 1,000 cycles (I’m making this number up, but let’s say it’s in excess of what we expect the normal battery to do). If you’re within the 3 year warranty and it fails they will replace it, regardless of if it’s PowerStack or not. If PowerStack is more expensive and you can get normal 5Ah batteries for significantly cheaper, I think going with the cheaper battery now is also a safe bet. As far as I know, and I have done a few battery warranty claims with Dewalt, they don’t check the battery to determine if it was cycled too much. I’ve never even had to return my bad batteries, but that might just be because I live in Hawaii and they don’t have a service center here anymore. They literally ship me a replacement battery via a freight forwarder and they have the tiny little box with the battery in it strapped to a half palette.
Bro, that 54v saw weigh's a damn ton! Defo not a one handed tool... All my 54v tools are insanely heavier than the 18v versions. But loving that the flexvolt batteries work on all the 18v tools. 🙂
I’ve been doing a ton of work on decks these days, and I’ve logged a bunch of hours with my belt sander and noticed my XR 5ah battery has better runtime than my powerstack batteries.
I’ve moved almost completely to PowerStack. I think I have 15 of the 1.7Ah ones and 8 of the 5Ah ones. I’m a bit disappointed that Dewalt didn’t make the warranty 5 years on the PowerStack stuff, especially since they claim that it can support way more cycles. The 1.7Ah is the perfect size for most hand tools for DIY use. I have an 11 year old 2Ah Dewalt battery that is still working fine so I feel like their batteries already have a great service life. I’ve had a couple of 5Ah batteries that died, but that was probably because I was trying to eek the last bit of power out of the battery and didn’t know the trick to jump start the battery from another battery.
I hate the “power stack” “Power pack” are great. I don’t like how there is no 1 more screw. When it runs out of power it just stops. I know it’s a safety thing for the battery’s but man it sucks when the last screw needs to go in and you can’t squeeze out just a bit more.
Love my 5ah powerstack. I literally just charged it today for the first time in over a month and I keep it in my DCF850 only and I use it everyday. Love the 1.7 too but it doesn't compare to longevity to the 5ah.
Jim, you best be leaving the batteries and drills in an organized side position for better viewing or Vince is going to walk out there and adjust it for you. lol
It should also be mentioned I've seen a RU-vid video where a guy actually measured the the power output between the Flexvolt Advatage/XR/poweradvantage/powerstack. I will not be getting rid of the flexvolt batteries for my FVA anytime soon. I also will not be buying the power pack battery anytime soon either. The PP starts out at 8ah. A FV 9ah can run my FV/FVA/XR/Atomic tools just fine
Another advantage of Powerstack that I don't think you mentioned in cold weather performance. Yes, they are not immune to performance decrease in cold weather but not as much as the cylindrical cells.
If you camp on the sales from different vendors, you can find the 5mp power stack for roughly $100 and 2 of the small power stacks for around the same price.
8hrs a day 5 and even 6 days a week 3Ah 12v (impact). Union Carpenter Interior Systems dealing with metal screws. 12v because it's right alongside my 3 Beam green laser. I do have an 887 w/ 3Ah in my truck as a back up impact. I also sometimes use my 996 w/ 5Ah batteries for installing "I" Lags with a screw pole (need a 1/2" chuck). 6Ah for batteries for long runtimes and I save my 8Ah for any grinding I may need to do. For any saws I go with the 5Ah.
@@DesiveLara call Dewalt, they will replace it under warranty if your date code is within 3 years, if older than 3 years and you have a receipt showing that you purchased it within 3 years they will also replace it.
@@JacobOverman how come? I’m ready to pull the trigger on x3 5AH’s and x5 1.7AH Power Stacks, RU-vid reviews seem positive but I’ve been reading mixed reviews from real world users. Cheers
Anyways, heres how to start a 737-800 1. Turn on the Main Battery. 2. Select either of the Left Main fuel pump switches to the "ON" position. 3. Select the APU switch to the "START" position. Monitor the APU Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge for stabilization. 4. With the APU fully powered up, select the APU Bleed switch to the "ON" position to provide pneumatic air to the bleed system. 5. Select the Isolation Valve switch to the "ON" position. This will open the pneumatic duct for APU Bleed-air to the Engine 2 start valve. 6. Turn on any of the Right Side Fuel pumps. 7. Close the overhead, and select "Shift + 4" to call up the throttle stack. 8. Select the Eng2 starter knob to the "Ground" position. Start valve Open light will illuminate for Eng2. 8. Monitor Eng2 N2 (make sure the secondary engine indications are visible). At around 19-20% N2, turn on the right side engine valve to the "IDLE" position. 9. Open the overhead again, and turn the Isolation valve to the "OFF" position. 10. Right side fuel is already selected for the APU. 11. Close the overhead. 12. Select the Eng1 starter knob to the "Ground" position. Start Valve Open light will illuminate for Eng1. 13. Monitor Eng1 N2. At around 19-20% N2, turn on the left side engine valve to the "IDLE" position. 14. Turn the APU Bleed Valve to the "OFF" position. 15. With both engines running, you may now turn the APU off by selecting the "OFF" position of the APU switch. 16. Turn on both Eng1 and Eng2 Bleed air valves and select packs on if desired. 17. Select the fuel pumps to your desired tank. The center tank is used first in most all conditions. 18. Turn on both Eng1 and Eng2 Hydraulic switches. 19. Turn Flight Control switches on, and when needed, turn on Spoilers switches.
Here's a simple and delicious recipe for street tacos: ### Ingredients: #### For the Meat: - **1 lb beef skirt steak** (or chicken, pork, or your choice of protein) - **2 cloves garlic**, minced - **Juice of 2 limes** - **2 tbsp olive oil** - **1 tsp ground cumin** - **1 tsp chili powder** - **1 tsp smoked paprika** - **Salt and pepper** to taste #### For the Tacos: - **Corn tortillas** - **1 small white onion**, finely chopped - **1 bunch fresh cilantro**, chopped - **1 jalapeño**, thinly sliced (optional) - **Lime wedges** for serving #### For the Salsa (optional): - **2 medium tomatoes**, diced - **1 small red onion**, diced - **1 jalapeño**, finely chopped - **1 clove garlic**, minced - **Juice of 1 lime** - **Salt and pepper** to taste ### Instructions: 1. **Marinate the Meat**: - In a bowl, mix minced garlic, lime juice, olive oil, cumin, chili powder, smoked paprika, salt, and pepper. - Add the skirt steak (or other protein) to the bowl, ensuring it's well-coated with the marinade. - Cover and let it marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, preferably 2-3 hours for more flavor. 2. **Cook the Meat**: - Heat a grill or skillet over medium-high heat. - Cook the steak for about 3-4 minutes on each side, or until it reaches your desired level of doneness. - Remove from heat and let the steak rest for a few minutes. - Slice the steak thinly against the grain. 3. **Prepare the Toppings**: - While the steak is resting, warm the corn tortillas on the grill or a skillet until they’re slightly charred and pliable. - Chop the white onion, cilantro, and jalapeño. Combine them in a small bowl or set them out separately for serving. 4. **Assemble the Tacos**: - Place a few slices of steak on each tortilla. - Top with chopped onions, cilantro, and jalapeño slices if using. - Squeeze fresh lime juice over the top. 5. **Serve**: - Serve the tacos with additional lime wedges and the optional salsa on the side. ### Optional Salsa: - Combine diced tomatoes, red onion, jalapeño, garlic, lime juice, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Mix well and let it sit for at least 10 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Enjoy your street tacos!
not strictly true on the charge cycles Lithium polymer batteries(which is wot is in the powerstack batts) and 18650 batteries typically have similar charge cycles, lasting around 300-500 charge cycles before their capacity significantly decreases
I absolutely hate dewalt’s battery line up. The most confusing lineup. All the other manufacturers made lineup simple, easy and more powerful. I love their tools. Their drills are my favourite.
Just want to make sure I’m understanding this. A PowerStack will last 3x as an XR? Therefore spending $170-ish on a PowerStack is better than $300 for 3 XR’s. Just making sure I understand that’s what you’re saying.
Hi Thomas, I believe that you are correct in your understanding of what he meant. Li-ion (conventional cylindrical cells used in XR packs) tend to have higher ACIR (resistance) than a comparable Li-Po (pouch cells used in the powerstak batteries). The real-life effect of this difference in resistance is that a conventional Li-ion battery pack will get hotter than a comparable Li-Po battery pack, when attempting to discharge at the same current and voltage. This heat is bad for the cells, and is one of the key causes of state of health degradation.
That battery on a recip saw just looked silly. Idk when that would be the ideal way to do things. There are tools for something that big and that's not it.
Powerstack was a huge waste of time. 1.7ah and 5ah only. They were never clear on who it was intended for. In truth I love the 1.7ah for small jobs, and my impact. I did buy 4 of the 5ah Powerstack from HD only because they were clearing them out at $75 each.
If your buying dewalt your buying wrong, you don't gotta worry about a right and wrong battery with milwaukee, because they all work the same, they just have different battery life
Incorrect. I love my PowerStack battery on my impact and love my dewalt stuff. And my M12 vacuum and circ saw are horrendous with the CP2.0s but work great with the HO 5.0ah. Don’t be ignorant.
I hear you. They only last so long, and they're big bucks to replace. All my milwaukee batteries are going tits up. I'm ready to go back to the cord for most everything except drills and impacts. Circular saws, sawzalls, routers, all last way longer corded.
That's because he's got it backwards. From dewalts website "20V MAX* tools featuring FLEXVOLT ADVANTAGETM technology recognize FLEXVOLT® batteries to deliver more power than with standard 20V MAX* batteries†..."
I have a 15 amp that is not even a year old that when it goes down one bar it locks out and most tools that require the power will not run them like it’s dead
Listen, maybe it's just me but batteries are OBSCENELY expensive for most name brands. And don't give me the quality and cost, they are marked and overmarked up just because they can.
@VCGConstruction I wasn't saying yall are, it was probably your autocorrect/word prediction that messed it up. "You're* buying and using DeWalt batteries all wrong."
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