I think it's silly when people say they don't edit their film scans! If you're having a lab develop & scan it for you, then you're basically allowing them to edit your film. Every scanner has slightly different colors, and there is no such thing as "unedited" film. There is 0 harm in doing minor color/light corrections to your film, to get them closer to how you remember the scene or how you'd like them to look. Awesome video, I will definitely be using this tip!!
I agree! My first film roll I didn’t edit it at all because it was my first roll and it turned out very great and I was happy with the result and I think choosing which lab to develop is very important, I guess that helps a lot. My second roll is damaged and I still wanted to develop it and went to different lab, but turn out not so great, I think they don’t really edit it because all the photos are totally green, I have to edit it all and do it just how I wanted it to be. The first lab I went was a great one and more expensive than the second but totally worth it and they definitely edit it too
Unless your first roll of film was reversal (slide) film or you left it as a negative it was edited. Any time negative film is printed or scanned it's edited by default, even if you are getting a scan of just the negative and leaving it as a negative image. The scan software itself is editing it on capture. If the scanned negative is inverted into a positive image it's rarely left that way so most likely got more edits for color and white balance. If, as in your example, the scan was too green it was still edited, it was just a poor edit. @@meatismurder111
Most tips like these I'll say "oh cool" and then forget about them but this? This one had me saying "WOW that's really cool" and I am absolutely going to be using it in the future.
It still works 100% with negative lab pro. Just make a positive copy and edit that. Essentially what you’re doing manually is what negative lab pro is doing as well. It just gets thrown off by random peaks on the histogram that aren’t part of the actual image. That’s why scans with a bright light source tend to be too dark because negative lab pro tries to preserve the highest values in the image.
Dude wtf it's actually so simple yet so effective i juste tried it and man what a game changer ! Thx you for this, glad to see you back on youtube kissies from frtance
You can also use this technique and with a little more effort to completely flip your negatives into a positive (for those who don't have negative lab pro)
excuse my lack of correct ~verbiage~ when it comes to the tone curve. this is just how my mind works! i seriously hope this helps y'all recover and revive some of your scans you weren't stoked on when seeing them originally, please tweet @ me, dm me your results, or post them on your instagram story and tag me!! i wanna see what's up. love y'all
You have no idea how grateful I am that you did this. I've wasted a lot of time tweaking film with weird colors. Once in a blue moon there will be a few that I like and keep it that way for creative purposes. Everything else will just be thrown into the abyss of my drawer hanging around with negatives I've neglected.
This is by far the best and most useful tip I have seen! I’ve been struggling with my negatives from the lab for a while now, thank you so much! Cheers!☝
The only way to see the ‘true’ positive film image is to make an optical (i.e. analog) print from the negative on film, paper, or any other positive print media. That's why our film emulation sampling technique is based on optical printing. We are recently released our plugin for Ps and Lr, it would be interesting to hear what do you think of it.
at first i was like nah, no way it's that easy turns out it really is THAT easy, did it with a bunch of my pics and i think i'm a fan of editing now, thank u so much dude
Shouldn't this actually still work with negative lab pro? Theres an option to make a tiff copy of your converted negative, which i always select for further editing. I feel like the same theory should apply
Hi Linus, Thanks for all your great videos - loads of important info given in a straightforward manner. I am a newbie to home developing and scanning, so forgive me if this is a stupid question: Is this Lightroom you are using in the video? And is it the Lightroom Classic or just the regular Lightroom?
hey man! ive actually been shooting film since before computers existed, this video is sacrilege! kidding ily, these photos are bomb and ur gonna help alot of people with this one liney
yoooooo! This is by far the best and most useful tip I have seen! I’ve been struggling with my negatives from the lab for a while now, thank you so much! Cheers!
this is an amazing tip! i was tired of struggling with developing at home and i just found a lab near me that develops 35mm for $8.50 a roll and now I won’t have to worry about their colors not being exactly what i wanted. really cool of you to share this!
Literally just learned this last month after editing my film scans from the lab for years. It the reason why I started scanning myself but I’ll still get some film lab scanned and this technique is absolutely a life saver.
I think it goes without saying that if more film shooters learn this, it will mean they’ll buy more film. So many people out there dealing with lab scans they’re not into and don’t know how to fix.
This is so helpful, thank you so much! And if you're like me and don't have any editing software, I've been able to get a similar effect just in the iphone photo edit menus (I just fiddle with various settings until it looks good)
I feel so proud of myself for having discovered this myself. My lab tends to have a fair bit of green cast so that green curve is my best friend. Great tip!
What software are you using? I have tried silverfast, but still get a haze over my photos. I don't know if it's because they are underexposed or something else. When I got them scanned at a film lab the looked much better, albeit the highlights were blown in some of my shots because of it. They look sharp, its just the colors and the haze that are the issue.
Thank you for the the video man, running through my family film so I'm having a bunch of issues show up like this. Also any advice on repairing damaged film ie: scratches?
NLP already should make color casts pretty dimished or not there at all since it converts negatives and levels out the black point! thanks for watching anyway!
Hi Linus - really enjoyed the video but having a bit of a confused moment here. I've had all of my film balanced by a lab until recently when I requested TIFFs straight from the scanner, and have gone down the rabbit hole of colour-correcting scans. What I'm really struggling with is how this relates to different film stocks, for example something like Kodak Gold and its stronger yellow/brown cast or some of the vibrant greens of Fuji stocks - does balancing scans not remove the unique colour profile of the film itself? How do you know what the film "should" look like when applying these changes to scans? From my perspective it seems like balancing scans would mean you'd basically get the same-looking image regardless of what stock you used (within reason) but I think I must be missing something! Any help would be much appreciated, thanks :)
