Messages are timestamped below! 00:59 Message 1 I had a pre-installation visit from British Gas installers. All my 15mm pipes throughout the house would have to be replaced with mainly 22mm - and some 28mm pipes - if I went ahead with the installation. Such information was not forthcoming when the system designer visited. I don't think that I'm prepared to have my house ripped apart to such an alarming extent. I live in a 1975 built detached house. 06:00 Message 2 I have solid fuel park ray back boiler council are changing it to airflow heat pump. l not sure on that system as uses electric and they said all my radiators need changing and pipe work need replacing so rip up carpets an floorboards in all rooms would they be better fitting Ipg gas tank and leave all radiators as they are all new and just fitting gas tank and boiler or someone from... 08:42 Message 3 Having my ashp fitted Thursday. I need to get a EPC done to claim RHI. What is the minimum requirements for the RHI and EPC. All walls are insulated, new double glazed windows and doors. Ufh both floors. Will get the loft insulated. Is there anything else I need, do all walls have to be plasterboarded and kitchen fitted ? Don't think I will get all that done by march 2022. Also can anyone recommend someone to do an epc near bolsover chesterfield. Cheers 11:00 Message 4 What to do when a client insists they don't want 2 rads changed because the rooms have been decorated ? We're changing most of the other rads but has anyone been able to get round this for MCS? 12:28 Message 5 I've got to be honest, I joined this group with excitement having bought a new home, even though it runs on bottled gas. I imagined a lovely homely air source heat pumped, ufh, big rads upstairs, hot water, blah blah blah... But the amount of posts I see on here and other sites, people with multiple problems from poor install, error codes, heat loss, warm water, clunky noises, one had a cat crapping in front of their pump and they swore they could smell it in the house It seems there's more problems but "eventually the tech will improve and the world will be saved", It's starting to push me towards an underground gas tank I'm just losing faith that air source heat pumps are fit for purpose 15:04 Message 6 I have had quotes for both air and ground source heat pump installations. What I am concerned about is that this is only one part of the system and reading posts a complete system has to be designed correctly to work efficiently. The project I am working on it's significant and has to be completed in stages which makes it a little more complicated. Should lengage a heating system designer to specify the complete solution or rely on the heat pump installers to advise? Good design, competent installer, and decent kit along with post install support are the key elements imho. 16:50 Message 7 I'm reading posts about low electricity bills. I had a heat pump installed in November and it took until February to sort out problems with the installation. I have real concerns about whether the capacity of the system is adequate. It still seems to struggle to get warm enough although I can't be sure until we have cold temperatures. And the costs are astronomical. My bills are still £200 plus each month even in April when it was hardly freezing. Any advice on what I can do? It's been a complete nightmare. My house is not big - a small bungalow with a loft conversion. 18:32 Message 8 Hi. We're in Devon. How do we get an independent check of our air source heat pump? We're not working again, just had upgrade and our pressure keeps dropping. Bit concerned our as system has only be in 2 years and our electricity bills are insane and system keeps failing. 20:32 Message 9 Looking for a local engineer to Bedfordshire for some advice on a badly installed ashp. Customers electric bills over £350 a month and is still not heating up the house or hw. The property is only Two years old and has Ufh throughout. 21:24 Message 10 Tbh I have never had such an expensive heating system.. Not sure I like ashp. Noisy and ugly 22:28 Message 11 From the Times today 'The future homes standard will require low-carbon alternatives to gas boilers, such as electric heat pumps, in all new homes by 2025. But EY, the consulting giant, found that there were only about 1,200 qualified heat pump installers in the UK, while almost 10,000 will be required by 2025. Lots of scope for new HP engineers and I assume good margins for years to come. 24:53 Message 12 So own up....who's had a heat pump fitted incorrectly on the ____ heat trial?..... Daikin fella representing them came out and was none best pleased 6 out of 10 for the install being generous. Have asked ____ for the report but they haven't sent it yet and so far have failed to keep 2 plumber appointments and 1 electrician one. How's everyone else doing? As the fella said everyone hes looked at is incorrect. Thanks guys 27:35 Message 13 Wondering if anyone can help What's the process in being mcs accredited how hard is it to get accredited what does it cost and ultimately is it worth it for a 1 man band like my self? 29:17 Message 14 Help appreciated please. Just got a free ASHP installed as part of a council /____ pilot initiative. Blokes who installed it were very keen to rush off on Friday and gave me the briefest of tips on how to work with it. Basically said: 'don't switch it off and just turn it up/down heat here, then left. So do I really never turn it off? My default with my old boiler was to have heating turned off unless it was cold. And my radiators upstairs were never on. With ASHP do I need to think of it like fridge and always have it on?
Responding to message 3… I’m mid complete renovation and claiming RHI. They seem to be panicking about kitchens, plasterboard etc. Not required for RHI sign off. They just need to do two things… get the pump in and the loft insulated… should be able to do that before the deadline Also, contact your local estate agent and ask who they use for the EPC.
What is your opinion on Octopus's heat pump rollout? I had them come and survey and they said my house wasn't suitable right now for them to install one. I assume they're going for low hanging fruit first?
@@mentality-monster they're trying to prove that heat pumps should only cost 5k. To do that they need easy jobs and to make 0 profit, which is fine because its dwarfed by the energy company revenue. I dislike this as it distorts the market and makes already challenging and underskilled market have to compete even harder on price which won't help with quality of install. They are innovative and shakers though which I do like.. its slightly unhelpful though as they are so insular and don't share findings, resources our anything with the wider community so only helps them. Essentially they are the antithesis of heat geek.
Hi, i am a plumber by trade and last year I was contacted by an agency recruiting installers of ashp on behalf of PH Jones which I'd part of British Gas. The job was to swap boilers in council properties for ashp. I agreed to go for it as I wanted to learn more about ashp. They have put us through a 3 days online course and off you go to do the installs. We were a team of 3 people ( 2 plumbers and 1 gas engineer) and had to install 2 heat pumps per week. When we arrived on site for the first installation we were told to run 28mm primary pipes and 22mm branching off pipes with new radiators. The cylinders came pre-piped . That was it- no much design or calculations, just chasing the figures of 2 installs per week. Just wanted to share why some of the customers are unsatisfied and the bad reputation of ashp. Thank you for the videos, they give me so much more understanding now 👍. Keep up the good work...
Great video. I have just had a Stiebel Eltron WPL 25 AS retro-fitted to replace an ancient oil boiler. Works brilliantly and mostly the house is warm and cosy with a COP of around 4.25 in every old house with limited insulation. Included with the package was their Easytron Connect system of TRVs which hook up to the ASHP controller. Some room temperatures never get up to target because the TRV rad valves close too early, I guess, because they react to the temperature of the water in the pipework and they then the rads go cold. Because the warm water continues to circulate, the pipework remains warm constantly keeping the rads turned off. Do you know this system and is my guess likey to be right? All rads have their TRVs mounted at the bottom of the radiators in a vertical plane.
Kudos to you guys. Just responding to case study no2. Parkray is a brand of backboiler, not Parkhome as in static caravan. More likely a 50s brick semi! Keep up the good work!
Thankyou so much for this discussion with Q&A on RU-vid and not just Facebook. I hate fb and not used for 7yrs so far. I'm following your ASHP info very closely due to the frustrations and confusions I'm having for my 2nd winter since installation in May 2021
Thanks for producing these videos. I am confident that I can do my own heat loss calculations/measurements, system design and installation of an ASHP. I am not interested in any government subsidy schemes. Am I alone? Keep up the good work!
Your not alone in your confidence. But unless you are a heating engineer, it will be far cheaper and quicker to get someone to do it for you and claim the grant, unless you earn near minimum wage maybe?. plus less headache, plus you get 2 year guarantee.. imo it would be nuts. No way i'd do my own..
Thanks for this. I think mine’s a very basic question. We’ve requested a heat pump survey through our energy company. We live in a link detached house with a garage on the side adjoining one neighbour and the neighbour’s garage on the other side. So In effect we only have 2 outside walls. At the front we have a porch and a curved bay window to the living room. At the back there are sliding patio doors into the garden from the dining room. So in effect the only outside wall where the heat pump could be placed is between the patio doors and under the kitchen window. About 10ft wide but there are recently fitted units in the kitchen behind this. My question really is what comes though the wall from the AHSP. Is it just pipe work and how much space does this take inside? Thanks
I've been really loving your consumer series - thank you for all the time and effort you put into it! My question is more around the logistics of going about having an install done. I have an early Edwardian house (1908), surprisingly with a cavity wall, suspended timber floors throughout the hallway, living and dining areas, a solid concrete floor in a relatively newly refurbished kitchen, and a single brick, single storey, 1994 extension out the back with a bathroom that needs replacing. Ideally, the cavity would be filled, and the loft insulation would be upgraded from 100mm to 300mm. I really want to take action, but I'm getting stuck not knowing where to start. Going to one construction company to handle the lot would be tempting, but based on the advice of your videos, I'm scared they won't subcontract to a heating engineer with the skills advocated for by yourselves. Where should I start? Would a heating engineer typically advise on the type of insulation to get for the property, install underfloor heating, work with a flooring company to replace the wooden floors, and also liaise with the fitters of the new bathroom? Or do homeowners normally just coordinate all of this themselves and hope that they don't miss any crucial dependencies between the various aspects of the job?
@@HeatGeek Thank you - that's very helpful. Insulation is basic. Nevertheless, I'd hate to pay hundreds to have it installed, only for a heating engineer to later say "ah, it would have been better to have this type instead" etc. I'll commence my search for a Heat Geek in or around Chelmsford!
Re message 10 & NOISE: 1) Our new ASHP has a 61 DB rate although when I monitor it, it can vary between 41 DB - 93 DB (which is a lot louder than the 48.8 DB that the company told us the ASHP would run at. This is a very quiet area & it has already upset our neighbour (whose fence is 42cm away & his house wall is just 60cm away - were they allowed to install it that close?). Is there a way to make it run quieter? 2) Secondly, whenever the new water pump (an Onyx RS25/6G-130) for the radiators come on, it creates a really disturbing high tone that seems to reverberate through the whole house. It is inside a cupboard in the centre of our small house, next to the 50L buffer tank that they installed. I am not sure if its the pump itself or a vibration that is being transferred through the pipes somehow. It is an awful noise that is uncomfortable to be around. We definitely cannot leave the ASHP on at night because it disturbs our sleep. Any suggestions as to what we can do? Is a buffer tank & pump even necessary for an ASHP system? Thanks for your help. 🙂
I live in Nova Scotia Canada we’re temperature are traditionally much lower during the heating season than England . My system now is infloor firing an oil boiler . Which never burns more than 2200 liters of oil. Can I use this fact to size my heat pump. The water temperature to floors is never more than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Outdoor reset by tekmar is used, with mixing valve modified to keep boiler fired with a 0.4 nozzle from turning burner on until mixing valve is fully open, burner than stays on until boiler water is at 190 F. All piping to each of the 12 zones is insulated until they reach the room to be heated.House is 22 years old , 3500 sq ft two car garage thermostat all set to 21c . All infloor piping kept 18 inches from outside rimer plate.This space was insulated and sealed for a thermal break. Full basement under main house , basement floor and wall all insulated , 2 inches styrofoam under floor studded wall with r12 fiberglass.wall stepped away from vapor barrier concrete walls.infloor is underfloor stapled up plates to run pipes.then insulated to r20. Looking to use Nordic air to water heat pump assembled in New Brunswick Canada . Any help would be appreciated thanks lionel.
Looking at get low co2 heating system installed what the best for a 3 bedroom detached bungalow that fairly well insulated? Looking at ashp but need most radiators replaced been told our home is 40 years old or air to air for the ac benefits in the summer or tepo zeb for the heating as hot water is handled at the moment by off peak electric or solar power in the good weather. All systems look to in the 5-9 k installed range . What’s everyone’s thoughts? Thanks
Consumer question for heat pump system design. We have a mix of 10mm plastic and 10mm copper microbore to all radiators. Is this a showstopper for system design?
I had an air source heat pump installed in February 2022. I chose an MCS certified local installer with many years' experience of renewables. The installation was very efficient and I was given information and advice as to using the control panel. I was very pleased with the heat pump. For the first time, my house was beautifully cosy and my bills were reduced. So what's the problem? Well my neighbours complained that it was too noisy. They complained to the local Council who sent officials to test the sound emission. The law in Scotland its that any noise more than 10 decibels above the background noise constitutes a nuisance and so the Council served me with a Notice of Abatement. This will be decided by the Sheriff Court. If I do not abate the sound sufficiently, the Council will forcibly remove my heat pump at my expense. This was rather alarming and, after some meetings with Councillors, I decided to install an acoustic enclosure, made by Environ to suit my Samsung heatpump and designed to reduce noise without interfering too much with the efficiency of the heat pump by allowing a flow of air in and out of the enclosure. Unfortunately, although some sound is reduced, the low level hum is worse than ever and, in the frosty days we have in the North East of Scotland, the hum has become a roar. My installer has examined the heat pump on several occasions whenever my neighbours hav complained. He finds it is performing properly. However, he has not happened to be there when it is roaring. It is loud enough that I hear it inside my insulated and double glazed house, with wooden shutters and curtains closed. I have contacted Samsung but have has no reply as yet. I would welcome any advice you can give me. I cannot afford to spend much more money in attempting to abate the noise as I have to keep enough of my life savings to pay for a new source of heat (an electric boiler since we have no mains gas in my village and I would not be willing to use a fossil fuel in any case) in the unthinkable event of the Sheriff court finding against me.
What are the positives and negatives of air to air heat pumps installed on an electric only property, witch and electric water boiler (assuming the building is properly insulated, say 2-3 bedroom).
We are currently thinking of having an air to water heat pump system. We have a 4 bed detached 1969 dorma bungalow style house. It has cavity wall insulation, loaf insulation, double glazing, underfloor heating in the kitchen /dining room. Our quote suggests a 12 kw Samsung Gen 6 heat pump, a Samsung Gen 6 controller, a 255L 3sqm invented cylinder, and MCS design and commission service. We intend having solar panels fitted for water and changing our all of our radiators. Does this sound a feasible plan? With the quote being in the region of £17.3k before VAT for all of the above we want to be sure it is right. Thank you.
Heat pump sounds on the larger side but could be right. Samsung units are hardly the best now... the quote sounds expensive considering it's a cheap Samsung too. Why not get a quitebfrom heat geek assured? Tbh I think we'd fit a much better unit and could be cheaper, if we have a heat geek in your area.
I want to install a Vaillant 7kw heat pump, the house is insulated with 10 points thermal facade, new frames and an insulated roof, at what temperature should I set the water supply to the bodies, my bodies are 13,000 calories and I am in Greece, here the temperature often drops to 0 degrees Celsius thank you good evening Ah nice the house is a 90 square meter detached house
Hi. I have ASHP 16KW Split sistem and I would like to know is it better to have 300 liters buffer tank or conect the pipes directly to the system? The house is 250 m2.
Thanks for lots of great videos in your customer series. One question I haven't heard a detailed answer on is how critical is the aspect of the air source heat pump? Logical location for my situation seems to be the exterior wall just outside current boiler location, but this is North West facing. There is space on the opposite South West wall (and would be more desirable from an aesthetic point of view) but presume this would require long external pipe run. Does the location of the pump matter or materially affect the SCOP?
I have got to wondering about ASHP vs GSHP using a standard electrically heated tank as the "ground" in the GSHP setup. Ie. a heat battery, water, could be installed super cheaply and easily in a small property then a GSHP without the drilling or digging can be installed increasing the "daytime" COP of the system. What would the COP be then?
Yes! But remember that you can make your radiators bigger so that they can emit for heat at a lower temp too. But yes that would tell you if you are heat pump ready with no changes - but do it on a cold day - needs to represent something near design temp for your house or otherwise when things get chilly the rads may not be big enough.
I've been running 43degC rads all winter, it's been fine nearly all the time, so I'm sure a ASHP will manage. Currently fitting temperature and energy monitoring to give me even more info to help size the system. I'm a fan of testing and measurement, you can't have too much information. Hopefully when I come to get my heat pump the installer will appreciate the data.
@@andythomas5265 are combi and ASHP flows similar? Obviously will have system design done as said just be good to know if works for one will work for other
@@roscopeco2000 well similar in respect that both run more efficiently at lower flow temperatures, so once I have all the info on temperatures, basically how low I can go at different outside temps, then I'll have an indicator of what the weather compensation will look like, also just about to install a heat meter into the system (because my gas meter won't give me a signal I can log), that will tell me what size of heat pump I need. Plan is to get at least full 12 months of data as my gas boiler is only a few years old, (no point in swapping it out until it breaks). I'll probably fit solar thermal before the heat pump as an additional energy saving ploy, and get as much data of this too.
I have an ashp hate it or is it the thermostat not working properly? It says my home is warmer than it feels. Won't come on until I turn up the settings. Blooming hate this and my supplier won't even talk to me no more. HIAS are not interested in my complaint. I just got to get independent proof that there is a problem with either the set up or the thermostat? I have to prove to them there is a problem or they won't help me ?
If any of your trainees want a challenge and fix my system they are more than welcome to look at mine. It's a blooming nightmare in this financial climate and rise in electric x
Fantastic videos. Am I right understanding that if someone wants to become a system designer / installer, they basically still need to train for 3-4 years as a plumber? Doesn't this limit the ramp up of designers / installers even with your excellent training courses? I can imagine there is an opportunity for system designers / specifiers to help plan what needs to be done so untrained plumbers can actually do the install and get some inspiration to learn more, or am I missing something?
No.. the 3 to 4 year apprenticeship was effectively written out years ago. Anyone can pretty much walk in tonthe trade with just a few days training here and there. A little more with gas if needed.
I'm looking to install an ASHP but the neighbours are really concerned about any noise disturbing them. I'm installing a Vaillant Arotherm Plus 12 kW and I don't know how to move forward. I'm really reluctant to revert to a gas boiler but equally I don't want to upset everyone. Internet has everyone terrified about the noise they make. Do you have a video that shows how quiet a 12 kW HP sounds like?
You can’t represent how loud things are on a video. Seen people doing this and saying it’s super quiet. If you have a heat pump running at a low load it will be on a low demand and therefore things like the compressor and fans are not spinning hard. Additionally at night sounds are way more noticeable and it’s at night when you tend to run heat the hot water. Even taking noise readings like a decibel ratings are not a good guide as it does depend on the frequency of the noise.
@@davideyres955this was an old comment, I now have one and love it. Very quiet and just out of interest, heat my water at midday when air is at its warmest, increasing the efficiency!
Hi, so I ran my combi boiler that has weather compensation at a 30 degree flow(WC adjusted it between 26-36 degrees) all winter. I had temp sensors all round the house and all temps remained stable and comfortable. I have had a performance estimate with a design flow temp of 50 degrees and recommendation to increase the size of some radiators. Is there any justification for upgrading radiators for an ASHP when the boiler ran fine at 30 degrees?
Hi, the important question is, did it maintain the target indoor temperature when it was -3 outside? If so, maybe not. But the installer has to take the risk so has to be comfortable or perhaps even create a waver.
@@HeatGeek Hi, thanks for the reply it was certainly fine down to -1 over the winter(I'm on the south coast). I'm not sure how high the weather compensation may have turned the flow up to but the tempreature loggers showed the temps were very stable. I'm not that bothered about changing the radiators so I guess it makes sense to change them. I guess my main concern is getting the most efficiency out of the system I don't really want to run it at 50 degrees if 30 degrees is fine.
@HeatGeek What might make for a good video would be to follow up with some of these commenters and visit they to assess where the system has been designed wrong and if there is anything you guys can do to resolve the issues. I know it's a cost to you guys but would make for a good series of videos and maybe help end some of this misinformation and back up that it's mostly down to the design.
How do you size the pipes. I'm a bit worried now seeing this as have 15mm pipes to the radiators 28mm from the heat pump and massive radiators going in next week. Heat loss is 6.5kw
mass flow eate calc (we have a viid) then velocity clac.. if your heat loss is only 6kw your pipes are WAAAAYYYYY over sized though (whch is a good thing) absolutely nothing to worry about.
Getting very conflicting advice regarding pipe size. Had an engineer over to look at replacing an Imstor system with an air source heat pump. He advised increasing the size of the radiators but said the 10mm microbore would be ok. He mentioned adding a pump "somewhere on the system" but didn't elaborate. House is a 25yr old, 3bed detached. What do you guys think?
There's far too many calculations required to be able to answer that.. we are doing a video on pipe sizes soon though that will help. Use a heat geek from our map.. they know the calcs and pitfalls
@@HeatGeek Thank you. I will keep an eye on your channel for the video. Would you say that it is possible given the right calculations? I was given to believe it wasn't which would have ruled out a HP hence the confusion.
How about some optimisation advice for the huge number of people who have bog standard condensing system boilers with S Plan wiring and no temperature compensation
I am a little confused about radiator thermostatic valves. Can you have them with heat source pump system as the info not clear .so in out 2007 house with brick and block filled cavity with insulation and then the floor and insulated beam and block and plaster board on the outer walls has insulation attached . Loft insulated. Now we do not tend to have radiators turned on in dinning room or upstairs bedrooms as it's to warm upstairs, we have noth bathrooms and stairs landing on low numbers setting . Can you still control individual radiators megaflow hot water cylinder.
You should have trvs yes. It's inefficient yo have rooms at different temperatures in most cases though. Watch our why not to zone heat pumps to find out whym
I fitted them and turned them all to max apart from bedroom is off. Radiator have been sized correctly and use weather compensation. So no need for TRV's. But offten radiators are not sized correctly thus require TRV's as heat geeks say to not over heat spaces.
Forgive my possibly stupid question here. Gathering the knowledge before we jump in on a ashp, and it’s about the outside pump location. We have 2 possible locations for it. First is on the east side of the house which is always shaded and out of the way. Or on the south side which is open and would get heat soaked being in the sunshine a lot of the time. Which would be the most efficient location or would it not matter? Cheers guys.
I've always wondered as well and the answer I've had from any manufacturer I've asked is - The ambient air temperature is almost always the same so it doesn't make a huge difference.
South facing, as the building will warm up and give a little extra temperature to the air in let. Just becareful if using weather compensation, you really need the weather comp to work from a remote sensor to the north side. Daikin has this as an option to do this.
To add i checked this morning southside asap 7 degrees air intake, east side (wall out of sunlight) Airconditioning unit air intake 6 degrees. Sun warms the wall up like a battery this will very slightly increase the air temperature. On a really sunny day this can be a lot. Heat geeks i can show you the evidence if you wish.
Thanks for your comments guys. Still not sure which would be best location though with conflicting opinions. Tending to side with Wob at the moment. Surely the pump manufacturer would have data on this sort of thing!
In Denmark it's so dificult to figure out which pump to get .... 2 different installers, who seem really good (also by the standards you set in your vids) have made 2 very different offers... 1 is a 9kw panasonic monoblok t-bloc with a buffer... the other offers a damn 14kw toshiba a2w unit with no buffer (split unit) ... 5kwdifference? i get even more confused xD i don't wanna be col in a -15-20 night ... this industry need more transparency
The ASHP and GSHP especialy new type with scrol compressors and high COP and good controllers are best for nowadays/ There must be a good install and project, the right flows, low temperature heaters etc. Question: Heat Geek, why I dont see you speak about fan coils? They are low temperature heaters and good for HP , as they work perfect on 40 celsius water coming? Question: Can there be a problem with oversized pipes and respectivly flow. Obviusly I can and will controll the flow with the return valves on the radiators/fan coils?
@@ChapmanPlumbing Understood! Purchased a brand new Tecnibel 16 KW 3phase HP and waiting to arrive. Have 3 floor house, 260 sq. m no insulation house. Will put a buffer tank to stay clean in the HP cycle, as my system is with old iron pipes, and I will use buffer tank . Do you think it will be to big for my house? I dont think so. I am considering to go GSHP in the future! The bills will go up only! So cheaper the better.
it may or may not be. the only way to tell is a heat loss calcualtion. you could try our cheat sheet. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VJQLcU_YjU.html
@@HeatGeek Actually I did, and calculate random 100 W/sq.m multiplied by 210 sq m is maiking 21000 W or 21 Kw. So 16 Kw will be Okeish and even a bit undersized for now. After insulation isntalled and tripple glazing will need to change it. Actually I am sneeking on e-pay for a GSHP and will replace the Tecnibel once the house is insulated with 150 mm rockwool externaly. Thanks man, very kind!
125 square meter old semi house just had Grant 17kW as they said my Hitachi heat pump was to small,now correct me if I am wrong the more kWh I use the more the installer makes RHI payments goes to them.The Grant seems to be 1 size fits all when they rung them impossible to sort out no timer on the Grant.Hung out to dry again costing a fortune they haven’t a clue god love them.They are now trying to get me to have solar panels save you a fortune haha where would I get info on this.Cheers like your vids
RHI payments go to the user, not the installer. More renewable KWH generatred from the unit the more the hime owners gets paid.. you cant generate more by having abigger unit though as there will be no where to put the heat and payments are deemed on property requirements
@@HeatGeek I don’t even know who paid for it as it was a grant zero money up front I don’t have a clue,It has a meter but don’t know what it does strange.Thank you for your reply wish yous all the best, wish yous had fitted it Proper company Heat Geeks
Nice to listen to real experts in the trade, who think Parkray is a Park Home!!! Parkray is probably one of the biggest solid fuel manufacturers recognised in our industry in the UK.
Oh dear! You don’t know what a Parkray stove is. It doesn’t mean that he lives in a trailer park. It’s a make of solid fuel (i.e. coal) fired stove, so it is running at really high temperatures. If it is the council proposing the replacement, then it means it’s a council house, quite possibly a post-war semi.
Guys a right I had a new boiler install by a big company and did not how to wire in opentherm control. Ask the pumper he did not understand what it was and company send a electrician was to install the controls as on / off mode which was not happen with.
I like watching your videos but I think some points were missed or just not accurately communicated. Whilst discussing pipe sizing, main reason is for accommodating flow rate (maybe you are just dumbing it down), there is a good reason for larger pipe sizing as this also helps reduce flow noise, though insulation on the pipe also helps with this. Park homes I agree an air to air is a really good idea, use a multi outdoor unit, maximum 5 indoors, Park homes may have a tendency to become very hot so has the advantage to cool the place as well.
The second question refered to their "ParkRay" back boiler. "Park Home" was not mentioned, but much of your answer centred on "Park homes" which apparently have 1m ceiling heights!!! and are already toasty warm and comfortable (as long as you don't want to stand up!). Come on guys do better!
The final question was a bit ambiguous. I'm sure it's obvious to you, but I think some people are wondering whether heat pumps have to be left on all through the summer! Please can you clarify what's the best way to manage the system in the warmer months?
Hi COlin, new vid on this soon but... if the outside temp is below your desired indoor temp, unit should be on, if outdoor above indoor desired, unit off... they automatically do this with their weather compensation though.
I found that occasionally ours came on in summer nights if the temperature got below the fallback temperature. Ours has a summer setting so that once you've decided you're done with heating for the year, you can set it for hot water only. You can set that manually or with dates that you program.
@@johnmckay1423 that's what I'd like. Even in a good summer here some nights will be 14-15 but I still don't want heat on in the house those nights. I really don't like bedrooms above 17 ever!
Sorry but gas is NOT subsidised. It's priced by market forces. If you burn gas to make electricity you will struggle to get 40% of the available energy out as electricity. On this basis you would expect electricity to be about three times the price of gas per KWh. Gas IS cheap it's not "subsidised".
Uk Gas and oil IS ABSOLUTELY subsidised! The UK give pay 10 billion to gas and pil exploration every year, which should be funded by the 100s of billions from those that profit from it. You may only get 40% of power out of gas alone but run ig through a heat pump multiplies by 3.5. And the grid is only 40% gas powered.
System design doesn't go far enough to provide lower fuel costs. Electricity is very expensivr and the roll out of these at this time will make energy supplers very happy and consumers broke. A total swindle in so many respects.
@@HeatGeek Yet to see 300% efficient real life costs example except for highly insulated new builds. Yearly average 300% in the UK. Love to see a case study on that any material on that would be welcome. Regardless of how the electricity revenue is split consumers will pay dearly for heat pumps in the UK due to the weather here and housing stock makeup with high heatloss. Even with cavity wall, extra loft insulation and double glazing. Just my observation.
@@ismscsim really well insulated should be 450% efficiency.. 300 is normal victorian woth poor controls.. No reason the majority of homes can't havr at least 350% with r290 units and advanced wc
Your videos contradict each other, on one video you say 15mm not good and now you're saying 15mm is ok? Even at the start of this video you are contradicting what your mate said, now he's contradicting what he said !!!!
Bg are now mainly subcontractors..................you have no idea. They have always been subbies. Gas board heating was built on subbies since the 70's cos they knew fk all about heating. Still don't.
@@HeatGeek I stand by my original comment. I subbed to Scotish Gas from 1977-1995 when they were broken up. The had 0 domestic heating installers through the 70's 80's, gradually introducing some in the 90's They did have TSE's. The fitters spent their time doing meter work, fitting fires and cookers and service repair. May have been different down south but certainly not in Scotland.
All you repeat over and over is that system design is key and the only source to get information is your course that costs a f load of money... yeah ... sure ..
Not the only source, kimbo Betty (Northampton training center) does this training as does heat engineer software Nd both much cheaper. Outside those.. your correct, very little places to turn.. hence this being the main issue
