Hey friends, First and foremost, I want to say thank you for watching this video. You could be doing anything else in the world with your time, so I sincerely appreciate the time you spent here with me. In all honestly, I think this video is crap. It's too long, covers too many topics, and covers those topics rather poorly (except for the Hero Me part? (maybe??)). I spent a lot of time trying new editing techniques, learning to animate, and just getting the actual project done. I recently graduated from school, am about to get married, and will be starting a new job in about a month which has proven to be a lot to juggle even without having to worry about RU-vid. I've been working on this video somewhat consistently for a little over 2 months and had reached the point where I was overwhelmed and just wanted it to be over with. So, I got it done and posted it (obviously). While I hate this video, it has not disuaded me from continuing to make RU-vid videos. In fact, I've learned a lot about myself that I believe will help the channel moving forward. 1. I'm no longer going to make content because I think it will get clicks. I'm only going to do projects that I enjoy personally and want to share with you all. 2. I'm no longer going to edit my videos with audience retention in mind. I'm going to edit so that the video is clear and concise, entertaining, and fun for me... 3. I'm no logner going to think that video quality comes from editing. Video quality ultimately comes from the quality of the project or presentation of a topic. From now on, this will be my focus. 4. This is the final video I will ever post, that I did not enjoy making the whole way. Forgive me for this full diaper of a video, it will be the last of its kind. From now on, I will make sure that my video start from a solid project, and that my focus is the value that it can bring you all. I no longer have time to focus on time consuming (yet amusing to me) edits as there's no way to keep quality content flowing while I begin the life of having a full-time job. Maybe one day I can hire an editor, but for now, it's not happening. Anyway, ramble over. I hope to see you in the next video. Sincerely, Spencer P.S. I'm really excited for the next video that I'll be making. It's going to be about linear rails and bed slingers. Is there anything you think would be cool for me to look at? Let me know!
that comment alone should earn a sub. Thanks for the like on my comment in the previous video, it was SO good I literally forgot to subscribe back then
Damn, i think that's quite ruff on yourself - i think the details on how different choices of cooling speed were very interesting The only thing i didn't really like was that i think the bass-y transition sound was a bit unusual 😅 I fully understand not wanting to make videos for the sake of e.g. clicks though, i've heard it's an unhealthy mindset and have experienced similar with posting memes, even with it being much lower effort As for linear rails and bed slingers: I'm interested in the concept of using just a simple pipe in a pipe for it, with something to stabilise rotation around the pipe :P
Don't be that hard on yourself. Take the stuff you don't like or f'ed up and learn from it. Don't worry about it, but take the experience and make yourself better, then you were yesterday. And I do disagree, the video was quite enjoyable and informative.
don't be so hard on yourself. this is a really good video. i wish it was around when i was new to 3d printing, it would've saved me SO much time trying to understand each of the topics you covered. really appreciate this. subbed
Havent seen the video duration when clicking. I was so happy to see I still got almost 40 minutes of things to learn and think about left after the first AD break😮🎉❤
I don’t mind long videos if they are informative. What I hate is when people repeat themselves and just blab about stuff way off topic. This was a very informative video. Perhaps it could have been broken up into fundamentals of part cooling and installing the hero me system but I would have clicked the next section anyway. Very helpful. I thought I wanted this system but I hate how it blocks my view of the print head. I like to watch it lay down the first layer but would have to tilt my head way down to see it lol.
We can also help by telling him WE LOVE THIS. So how about making a normal long form video like we have here, and a shortish one that is heavily edited to have only highlights. Link them both to each other and let your audience decide how much time they have
Awesome video. Halfway through so far and just want to say I enjoy the "rolls of PLA" currency. "I bought this soldering iron for the cost of 3 rolls of PLA" fantastic.
Haha, I love using other ways to look at money. When wedding planning over the last few months, I started to think in “this venue doesn’t cost $10,000” it’s “$2500 per hour” which is rather sobering. (these are not real numbers, I do not have that kind of money😂) Thanks for your comment!
@@SpencersDesk "honey, I bought another 3d printer" "what?why? How much did that cost?" "Only 1/50 wedding venues” "oh... Ok, I guess that's not too bad"😂 this might just be crazy enough to work. Congrats on getting engaged
You're going to the top of 3d printing community basically immediately. How come u only have 69 views as Im watchng (nice) and a little over 1k subs is so insane.
⚠️⚠️Noctua does now make a 40x10mm 24 volt fan it's perfect for printers!⚠️⚠️ It even comes with a low noise adapter to reduce its RPM if it's cooling well enough already
I have no suggestions for improvement. I watched the video to the end and I think you have done a great job of explaining things and pointing out when there are options what those options are to the overall design. WELL Done sir or in other words "YOU DID A GOOD JOB" thank you. You have earned a new subscriber and I look forward to your next videos.
A couple years back I used to be more interested in upgrading my 3D printer and such, and I tried the Hero Me system. It was pretty good. Well put together and designed. I don't remember how long I ran it for but it was probably a year or so. When I upgraded to an E3D V6 hotend, I started to have issues. Maybe it was the fan, but I started to get heat creep issues. I changed to Petsfang which had a lot more room for airflow around the coldend heat sink and my heat creep issues went away. The biggest issue I've had with these sorts of cooling upgrades is actually too much cooling. Dual 5015 fans blow a lot of air, and I've run into issues with extrusion, which I believe were caused by the part cooling fan cooling the nozzle too much. Moving to lower fan speeds and higher nozzle temperatures has helped this issue and I haven't run into it for a while. For PLA I run 215 C on the nozzle (0.6mm) and 50% part cooling (up to 80% depending on layer times) and the parts come out pretty strong. Though if I am printing thick and fast I have no issues with cranking the temps as high as 250 C if I feel it needs it.
That’s a really good point! Luckily the design of the mosquito silicone boot covers the sides of the nozzle, so I imagine I’m avoiding the same issue. Other silicone socks don’t seem to be as good though. I’m definitely interested in moving away from the Hero Me in the future, hopefully to my own custom design!
I wonder if someone could design a better PID tuning system that runs the part cooling fan at different speeds, as well as the nozzle at a couple of different temperatures to make a better control for the hotend temperature under different circumstances. Extra ideally it would also be while printing a pieces at different speeds to account for the energy needed to heat the material at different flow rates. I believe you can do something like this but it’s a fair bit of work to do. Automating it would be a lot better
The best thing to do would be to PID tune your hotend at 50% fan speed (or whatever fan speed you were okay with the printer using all the time) and that would allow the hotend to respond appropriately. I think for my setup, with the skirt and the mosquitos being designed so well and having a great silicone boot, the part cooling isn’t affecting it too much
I love the HeroMe fan system and have used it for many years. I just got my new hand-built printer all set up with the Gen 7 and I absolutely love it! I don't agree with the weight being heavier as my Gen 7 I printed is lighter than any other system I could find. I also believe the way the air comes out of the vents is smoother than any fan system I have ever seen. Good video!
That's so cool! I wish I could build/design my own printer. Have you got a video on it? if I remember correctly, my point about the weight was the weight itself, but the way it is distributed in space. The HeroMe is very bulky which causes additional torque, in theory, but maybe not in a meaningful way. It's of course a product of designing a system for every printer ever. I definitely love the HeroMe system. Hopefully I can't print it one day with great print quality and awesome filament. Thank you for your support!
Whenever I cut PTFE tube, especially when being used as a 'liner' for a direct drive setup or a holding stub to wedge into the hotend for some bowden hacks, I've found it's super useful to gently ream the ends into a taper with a sharp drill-bit. It's important not to overdo this on the hot-end side, leave a lip all around so it can structurally seat, that side helps with cold-pulls, on the top side, a slightly more aggressive taper, helps keep inserted filament from getting caught on the edge whenever putting a new color in.
I definitely want to do this in the extruder side! I’m hesitant to do it on the hot end side as I don’t know how wide it should be. Also, I think I’ve gotten 1 clog with my mosquito in the entire time I’ve used it. Hopefully the trend continues and I may avoid cold pulls. Thanks for sharing this awesome tip!
@@SpencersDesk on the hot-end side of PTFE, it really 'all depends' on how things were designed to be seated. The main thought I had on that part was if there is any 'squish' on the PTFE, then that opening won't get constricted, but about 1/3rd of the exposed surface area was all I removed. To this day that was still one of the smoothest to load extruders I've ever used, and easiest to cold-pull on a whim. I accidentally created a feature as well, it was perfectly able to extrude filaments, but when pushed past what it could melt, the stepper gently skipped steps instead of chewing the filament up. I only recently realized this means it's actually able to cold-pull itself.
Bro!!! Your intro is hot. I can tell you spent good time on it.vWithin the first 2 minutes of this vid you got my subscribe. Love it. Keep it up and please stay connected to the community
Interesting. I just ordered a big pack of inserts and a dedicated setting tip for my iron a few hours before finding this video. Unsure if I'll go this route with the new hotend I ordered though
Dude, while the video was longish it also covered a lot of stuff. Even though I knew most of them I kept watching as you very nicely cover everything about cooling there is. The point I'm trying to make, your doing well. Sure it could be better, but one can always say that about anything. Now regaring possible areas of improvements, I think this would also work as a multiple part series. I any case, keep up the good work!
It is midnight so I don't have time to watch the whole video, but today I learned that my part cooling was too good. I was getting crazy warping and delamination with PLA at 230 C and it turns out the my blower fans I mounted are cranked WAY too high, I didn't know that could even happen with PLA. I printed test prints at 75,50,25, and 0 percent speed and it turns out the best is 50% with good layer lines and good adhesion. Now I can finally print vase mode.
Interesting vid! Thanks for your thoughts. Ive been using the HM on my ender 3 v2 clone for a couple years now and its quite good. Not as rigid as some other designs but I think some of that is due to way the linear rail is mounted on my machine. I have a single 5015 feeding a dual duct and it can easily over cool the print. The amount of cooling required is dependant on what the motion system of your printer is capable of, up to the point where the properties and behaviour of the plastic start to define the limitations. I think there is to much focus on speed within the 3d printing community. Speed doesnt = better. It'll wear out your printer faster and your slicer tune has to be on point. That said i highly recomment people explore the speed print rabbit hole. Its a highly educational experience and you will gain a deep understanding of your printer, slicer and the plastics your using.
Hey, as for the soldering you did here 23:46 - I don't even own a soldering iron (yet), but on "college" we learn to solder somewhat. AFAIK you are meant to put the cable on the metal pad and heat both at the same time, and then put the solder wire on so it melts right on top. If you heat the wire on the air, it (sometimes) creates blobs. Cheers!
This is definitely the ideal way to do it. In practice, it's often quite difficult to do it though. After the amount of coffee I consume, I find it very hard to keep steady, haha!
IMO Slicers are still archaic in how they make overhangs - I think it'd be possible to generate Gcode that fits overhanging better and make prints even better.
I believe Thomas from made with layers or Stefan at CNC kitchen made a video when layers are printer like the horizontal bits on the sphere pin test I showed. Looked really cool, but I forget where it’s at in development
Personally, I don’t think I’d use the hero me system with a prusa printer. They’re very nice machines. I think you’d be better suited with a prusa specific mod! Why do you want to use the hero me?
@@SpencersDesk sometimes I get a layer curling on a small sharp corner that is above the first layer, some edges or angles/corners have different shrinkage and makes that section weird looking and not sharp, not sharp sharp, but a clean edge not getting a clean edge on some areas.
Sorry to respond so late, but I have an electric screwdriver which recently broke on me, and I just got a new one. The link is in the description of my newest video!
I'm using Bull's eye, it is similar style but with one fan instead of two. Not perfect, at times i would need more power but for 99% of the time, it is just fine with one stock ender3 fan and two ducts.
@@SpencersDesk I'm not that versed on fan tech that i know from memory, but i'm guessing: no. It is the original ender3 fan. I did do the "plate of water" test, it is better than the stock fan duct for sure, nice fairly symmetric pattern.
Base looks like printed from PETG with 0.8mm nozzles and without cooling. It should be printed with much better quality, to make real use of air stream instead of blocking it with all these blobs, strings and non-smooths. "Fan Booster" printed in quality shown on video, is more a blocker than a booster. Teh same goes for internals of ducts. Perfect should be smooth. Good results can be achieved with ASA/ABS and acetone. Not really need for acetone chamber. Just put the duct into the acetone for 20 seconts, grabbing by a part (let's say mount) that doesn't have to be smoothed. Dry it and repeat. We tested literally the same set of ducts before and after smoothing, with the same gcode, and differences were visible for overhangs and small parts.
I love the smoothing idea! I printed the ducts with the recommended settings from Andy. The Prusa Mini doesn't have the best cooling which lead to some blobs. Once I have the capability to print in better quality, I definitely will!
@@SpencersDesk Almost no printer have the factory duct even close to optimal. And "recommended settings", better not comment. They're at the same time conservative (thus slow) and also far from being optimal. Good luck with your own, smoothed ducts.
I think you’re referring to the dual duct I said wasn’t working? There’s a slot in the side that you put your hex key through to mount them to the universal base. So, if the fan is mounted first, it blocks that slot, meaning you can’t mount it to the universal base
Wait, I actually just checked the dual duct part and you’re right, I could’ve just mounted the fans first😂 the single ducts have to be mounted before the fans, I got mixed up. I must’ve just missed that or in my frustration with the breaks, just moved on to the single ducts.
Another idea/question was the dual duct designed for heat inserts in the fans? You can add heat inserts into the fan screw holes, the voron skirt fans use that method.
A great point! I personally don’t remember seeing it in the documentation (he doesn’t go through part by part describing them, which I personally think every single part should have a little read me with a short note about it) but that’s a fantastic idea!
Thats not correct.. laminar flow is very important 3 ways. 1) getting as laminar as possible airflow reduces most of the air noise you here. this is aided by not reducing the overal surface area of the air "exit" at the nozzle. Here it is actually beneficial to reduce the overall surface area vs the fans exhaust since this is increasing velocity and we only need the air in a very little area anyway so its very important to make the airflow as smooth flowing as possbile to not get additional noise from turbulence. 2) you want to avoid turbulence because even slight turbulence can reduce the efficency by 30% or more. With efficiency is ment the reduction in air velocity. Air is not water - so air can be compressed. Reduced velocity basically introduces backpressure in random places which can slow down airspeed even more. Most of us know this effect .. you can increase fanspeed on any restrictive device but at some point there is so much turbulence and backpressure that with increased speed there is not any additional air coming out. 3) Both style fans have a very limited ability to deal with pressure. There tollerances are so big - i mean look at the airgap between fanblades and housing - that if you introduce pressure its getting very likely that you start recirculating air in that gap and also air will use every other gap it finds to leak out reducing the pressure but also effectivly killing your cooling solution as it wont go through the restriction you want it to go through. Always keep in mind that air is a "bitch" it never wants to go where you want it to go. So getting laminar flow of air when its not a straight line is actually a big deal
These are some valid points, but I believe that they apply to larger systems. I think at these small scales, it really doesn’t change anything. I also stand by the point that turbulent flow is more efficient at cooling surfaces. It doesn’t matter if you’re more efficiently getting air to something you want to cool if it then doesn’t cool as efficiently. Again, I’d like to see the simulations he discusses having done (through a friend) to really believe it
@@SpencersDesk but you actually iterated over the point that we want cooling only at the nozzle. Because we want the molten plastic to instantly solidify but stay as gooey as possible for as long as possible. Turbulences will make the air go everywhere uncontrollable so not desirable for our use case. And again we want good cooling at minimal noise so it does matter. And then from the other way around.. if we have laminar flow and we make a slightly decreasing diameter funnel which increases air velocity(only if it's laminar flowing air) we can get decent cooling with much less rpm which in returns is quieter again. As soon as air leaves the ducting it will get turbulent instantly anyways which creates most of the noise you can hear. I did a fanmod by myself and iterating over the funnels was very tedious to get to a design thats flowing well with minimal noise created as even at full blast a 5015 fan is basically silent until you add any form of ducting
@lamarcdesign I still think Larymi at flow is not there. The environment under the nozzle is constantly changing as the part is printed and there’s no way to guarantee a laminar flow. It is more than likely turbulent no matter how you design things, just the nature of the system. I can’t say I’ve ever heard a fan that’s silent at full blast, on or off of a duct. I still believe laminar flow is important through the ducts, but not at the part air interface, where turbulent is much more efficient to cool
@@SpencersDesk i only ever ment in the duct. It would be complete marketing bullshit if anyone claims he can achieve laminar flow in free air and I'm sure that's not really what heroMe is trying to 'sell'. It's only that within the duct it's laminar. Many printable part cooling solutions this is not the case and is hurting efficient performance alot so they need to throw much more rpm at the fan then would be necessary for the resulting cooling performance with an flow optimized duct. That's what I ment and that's probably why heroMe is making some buzz about it. And it's correct.. comparing some of my earlier designs to where I am right now I get basically the same amount of air at much lower rpm then the earlier designs and this is straight forward linked to how laminar I could make the air flow through the ducting
Are you referring to me taping the fan to the print head? That was just a joke. I did briefly mention/show the CPAP setups, but they’re overkill for my current setup!
Well sorry for it being so late. I was a freshman in college and didn’t have a printer or the drive to do anything useful. But better late than never. And luckily more than 99% of printers aren’t Bambu or Qidi so I think it should be fine
My dude just casually dropping runescape tunes as background music EDIT: AND A CLIP FROM THE GAME (you could've gotten stock footage of sword dipping in water from Giant's Foundry)
I recently found some archives where you can download the entire OSRS playlist! I think there’s even one for all the sfx! I wanted to use the giants foundry but there are surprisingly few gifs of it. The RS side of my will definitely continue to be a theme ;)
FWIW, the F in FDM stands for “Fused”. The temperature of the layer below should momentarily reach Tg when the next layer goes down, at least on its outermost 10-30%. If it doesn’t, you’re not extruding hot enough. Annealing at or above Tg makes this more thorough and consistent, as well as “releasing residual stresses” caused by the extruding process, making the part stronger at the expense of possibly altering its geometry. These changes should happen in predictable and repeatable ways, so if you’re making extruded plastic parts, the shape of the hole in your template is different to the final shape. I can’t say I’m an expert on these topics but overall, nice video and story telling. I didn’t expect you to rebuild your whole toolhead from scratch, but sure, why not! Also nice to describe all the extra steps that are needed when you do that to make sure the replaced toolhead works properly.
I always forget it means fused! Haha I definitely had some scope creep on this one. Hoping to not cram so much into one video moving forward! Thanks for your comment and valuable input!
Chemist here (PhD), just needing to clarify a thing: our common filament plastics can not form hydrogen bonds with each other. For this you would need hetero-atom bound hydrogens (like OH, NH, or similar), acting as so-called hydrogen-donors. The oxygens in PLA and PETG and Nylon (which also contains N) can act as hydrogen-acceptors, but seeing there is no donor in the base molecule, this kind of intermolecular force is not applicable here. I would rather argue that we primarily see Van-Der-Waals forces and pi-pi-bonding. 7:54
Oof what an oversight on my part. Thanks for clarifying! Pi-pi bonding is a form of covalent bonding right? I forgot that if it were only hydrogen and van der waals that it probably wouldn’t be a solid at room temp
@@SpencersDesk ah I think it’s alright for the general public. Pi-pi bonding is a form of non-covalent interaction between (you guessed it) pi-orbitals. There’s also dipole-dipole interaction as well as dipole-induced dipole interaction, which probably play a greater role overall now that I’ve looked into it a bit closer
Ohh you just woke up the part of my brain responsible for remembering dipole interactions… I was relying a little too much on my memory and not actually putting in the research… But again, won’t happen in future videos.. Thanks again for sharing your wisdom!
You came out of NOWHERE and producing INCREDIBLE content right out of the gate. RU-vid is far too saturated with 3D printing channels that focus on products; a channel focusing on concepts and engineering has been much needed. I CANT WAIT to see your next video.
I thought that the partial air from HeroMe fan duct will hit the silicone sock and that will change the direction of the air flow. And this is why I removed HeroMe gen7.4 from my ender 3 and designed my own fan duct for my own setup. I personally hate Hero Me. BUT this is the only video that explains how to set the part cooling fan settings on Orca slicer (prusa) so thank you! I had no idea how to adjust those min fan max fan settings.
I think the water test I show was enough for me to believe the air is going the correct direction. I do wish, at least in my setup, the the mosquito was turned 90 degrees so the ducts wouldn’t be so close to the silicone sock. I definitely think the hero me isn’t for everyone! I’m personally planning to move away from it when I’ve got time to do some of my own design. I’m glad you got some use from the video!!
lol, that Hero Me guy has the polar opposite design sense as me :) I obsessively make everything compact and lightweight with as few parts as possible, and use coarse threaded screws into the plastic (like almost every injection molded thing ever made) instead of the fiddly and heavy heat inserts.
Part of making something modular is sacrificing all of the optimizations unfortunately :/ I’m right there with you though, I’d be trying to make my print head perfect. I hadn’t heard of using coarse thread screws! Can you still unscrew and screw things multiple times or do the holes wear out?
@@SpencersDesk Fine threads wear out quickly, especially in PLA, but coarse threads last a long time. Just be careful to locate the existing thread when screwing back in. I rotate the screw backward until I feel a little click as it drops into the thread. If you ever do strip it, put epoxy in the hole, coat the screw in grease and then epoxy, and stick it in. The epoxy forms perfectly fitted threads, and the grease prevents bonding to the metal so you can still unscrew it. Good for wood too, especially if you need to screw into endgrain which strips easily.
Personally, I’d prefer the more common screws and love heat inserts. Never have I felt like extruder weight was what’s holding me back, usually cooling or maximum volumetric flow rates.
Chapter 1 is all informative and educational. And then I am introduced to a rather complicated (though very cool) project? I thought you're gonna teach me how to make my current setup cool well😅
I recommend the cheap Chinese 80W 980S soldering iron. Costs half a roll of PLA and there's basically nothing to improve on. High power with temperature control makes it useful for everything from hot glue to heavy copper wire. I'll probably buy a second one just to save time switching tips, since I often solder wires and then craft strain reliefs out of hot glue.
@SpencersDesk Spencer, Thanks ever so much for creating this video! I only just today learned about it from a friend of mine. I very much appreciate all the effort you put into it. The detail on each issue related to part cooling, how to go about selecting and assembling the Hero Me, and your honest opinion of what you think of the Hero Me. Note to everyone else who may be reading this, to my knowledge, Spencer and I have never talked to each other, or via text, or other channels that I know of. I knew nothing about his video until today (mid-August). I thoroughly enjoyed watching the video. Then I saw the comment you posted about hating this video. I think you are being way too hard on yourself. I do understand where you are coming from regarding where you want to take your content next, and focus on your passions. That is what you should do. If you are passionate about your topic, it will be very apparent to your viewers, and it will help grow your channel as like minded people find you (and current Subs tell others)! Regarding your critiques of the Hero Me... The weight of a dual fan Hero Me setup is less weight than that of a Voron print head assembly using the same hardware (and only one part cooling fan). The dual fan duct example you used is on the extreme end of a 'front heavy' Hero Me setup. I can tell you that I have had reports from a number of advanced users that the mass of a Hero Me printhead setup has no negative affect on the performance of a high-speed CoreXY doing 200-300mm/sec. with 10K-20K accelerations. And the Hero Me was designed before the Benchy Speedboat took off with everyone racing to make their printers faster and faster. Regarding the turbulent vs. laminar air flow...Yes it is the ducts air pathways and I loosely used it to compare to other dual duct designs (that had zero engineering done) where the two ducts are basically facing each other and therefore the airflow is very turbulent to the extent that the airflow from the ducts almost cancel each other out. The Hero Me ducts have been designed from both computational fluid dynamics results and real-world printing results and feedback (7 years worth). The ducts are not only pointed down (Y shape) focused below the nozzle, but also angled towards the back (also a Y shape) where the nozzle remains centered above the merge of the airflow). The Hero Me duct design has been proven to deliver more efficient cooling than 100% of Mfgrs stock setups and ~95-98% of other 3rd party part cooling options. This is because none of them have done the engineering work (especially the printer manufacturers) to design the proper airflow to properly cool the filament while printing. I don't know what it is about your setup, or slicer settings, but much better 200mm and longer bridge tests can be printed with the Hero Me with next to no perceptable sagging of the first few layers. An old review of a Hero Me Gen5 on RU-vid by @youmaketech shows what I mean (titled: Hero Me Gen 5 on Ender 3) at the 8 minute mark. A point you brought up briefly at the beginning of your introduction of the Hero Me, that is just as important as the cooling, is that the Hero Me is much more than a part cooling solution (although that is how it started). The Hero Me system is a completely modular printhead assembly that supports almost any possible combination of hardware. Instead of buying a new printer, someone who uses the Hero Me system can very easily upgrade their existing 3D printer to higher performance components (hotends, extruders, sensors, etc) by only having to print one new Hero Me part for a given component. Almost every other 3rd party printhead system has to be scrapped if you want to upgrade even one item, because they are all designed for just one set of parts. And then you have to search for another printhead setup to match your components. Some Voron systems and the EVA-3D are the only exceptions, but even they are quite limited in what components can be combined and what printers they can be used on. As for the asthetics of the Hero Me Gen7, the design challenge called for performance, and to be compatible with the hundreds of different printers and many dozens of different printhead components that it supports. I have actually designed cool vanity covers for a dual duct, direct drive Hero Me Gen7 setup, but it just adds weight to the setup and serves no purpose. I guess the question for everyone is: Do you want a pretty 3Dprinter to look at, or one that is high performance, supports the components you have, and gets the job done with great print results? I think you did a great job covering all the aspects of part cooling and how the Hero Me Gen7 contributes to better print results. Thank you again for producing this video and for your support of the Hero Me Gen7. I will definately be linking to your video from the Hero Me pages on Printables, Thangs, Makerworld, Thingiverse, etc. Happy Printing, Andy MediaMan3D
English is not my first language so my words might be straight forward. Great start in the beginning --> After you explained the principle of print cooling, I thought, your direction will be research in detail about "good cooling is the just enough amount of cooling, no more no less" as this would be very intersting. About 50% of the video is actually about assembly of Hero Me system --- this is also good --- during the watching I was wondering --> Why is this guy building a hero me system where nowadays people are building Stealthburner or even Dragon burner, toolhead with cpap (you also mentioned it). Maybe I missed it, but seems there's not too much explaination of why you chose herome vs. the current "trendy toolhead" ---》 since you can print ASA, pretty much you can do it. They all have similar princinple --- having 2 bigger part cooling fan. But dragon burner / XOL or other toolhead is likely to have lighter weight and more compact design. You clearly put into a lot of effort into it, I also saw your "rambling comment" --- above is just my 2 cents when watching you video. cheers.
Laminar flow is less efficient for heat transfer, but I believe it's more efficient at power transfer. Basically turbulence creates back pressure on the fans at makes it harder to push as much air.
I’m not going to lie about how many times I thought about dunking my printer in water. Or how you could use liquid cooling like in CNC milling. A man can dream
Great video! Our algorithmic overlord offered it out of the blue and I was not disappointed. There are SO MANY rabbit holes to fall into when it comes to 3D printing...
Previous versions used things like captive nuts. I think heatset inserts are new to v7, or perhaps v6. Also, my dedicated heatset iron was like $30 including special tips for each bolt size and a stand. You don’t need a superior iron for inserts.
Very good point! How do you like having a dedicated insert press? I thought it’d be tough to use when parts have odd geometries that don’t lay flat. I’d personally recommend a soldering iron as it can extend to electronics work too! I will say, I haven’t put in the time to get heat insert tips (which are compatible with my iron) and just using the iron tip can sometime be problematic!
@@SpencersDesk Sorry - it's a soldering iron dedicated to heatsets, not one of those drillpress-looking things! I just got tired of worrying about getting melted plastic on my "nice" soldering iron. I like using the heatset tips because I can just line things up and not worry about dabbing into the plastic. They're also nice for the periodic part that wants you to push the insert below the surface plane (some Voron inserts want to be a few mm inset). Rolohaun had a nice video this week about using a flat blade to heat, and then a metal block to press flat. I use a random metal bracket I found in the garage for pressing flat.
@@SpencersDesk I don't think RU-vid lets you post links, so the iron I got was Amazon item B08R3515SF ($11.99, 80W soldering iron), heat-set tips item B09VL41T7K ($8.99, "Insert Tips for T18 ST 900M", I think the 900M was the connector type), and the base was B09CT8XT9B ($10.97). I recently saw a recommendation for a kit like B0CSVRY42F (cheap iron with included tips for inserts), and I suspect that would be fine, too. This use case isn't as sensitive as "real" soldering.
Dude you had me tripping. @ 3:40 when the runescape Al Kharid music started playing because im playing osrs and running around thinking WTF is this music coming from hahaha!
Chapter 1 is great and I enjoyed it. Chapter 2, however, is way too specific and instructional and in the end it was hard to understand what's so great about the system.
Haha, yeah, this video was a few different topics that I kinda slammed into one. I'm still in that new RU-vidr phase (and probably will be for a while)
You would believe the face palm I did after finding this out. I may be wrong but I think they only recently started producing the 24V fans. Thanks for the heads up!
Excellent video! I tried previously to use the HeroMe 7 on my BIQU B1, and has similar experience to yours. Bulky, difficult to assemble, not aesthetically pleasing, etc. Ended up modeling my own cooling ducts that fit the original metal hotend case, and managed to replace the small-ish original fans with the blower type ones. It most probably has the exact same cooling performance as the HeroMe, but it's much more compact, and uses the original sturdy metal mount to the rail instead of the plastic HeroMe one. Also made an adapter to fit the Orbiter v1 that I had laying around. So I could say the best thing about HeroMe is that it inspired me to get the same thing by "investing" into modeling my own thing for a couple of days. Which is why it has a respectable place on a shelf next to my very first voron cube and the very first afterburner (from a V2.4 I once built).
I’m definitely a lover of the hero me for the same reason. The gen 5 was the first mod I’ve ever done to my printer. I’m sure it has been the diving board for lots of others getting into the world of modeling and modding. I personally will always prefer something that inspires to something that works a little better. Thanks for sharing your experience!
I’d like to add that the pin support challenge isn’t much of a challenge when basic Ender 3’s print it perfectly. I’m not saying they’re sufficient in all areas. I use dual 5015’s myself, but another metric could be used.
I have to agree here completely with this point, I have a OG Ender 3 (albeit heavily modded) and a stock hotend S1 Pro and both print the pin without any issue. Neither have much modifications to part cooling and the S1 really has none at all
just use model kit glue, it will be stronger than the rest. maybe you can use it on a brush for the whole model, it fuses plastics together. also i would suggest sunlu ABS, this stuff is the strongest from all brands i tried, prints awesome and is super cheap too. i know it can deal with 85°C motors without deforming. the hero me was too hard to assemble and maintain, at the end i designed my own with less than half the parts.
Hmm... A "tall load" will/could apply more "torque load" when moving the head in "XY" movements than if You have the "load" at the same height as the print head. If I'm not mistaken the "torque" depends on where the "load" is in relation to the "fixed point" that is loaded during the acceleration...What I'm trying to say is that a "wide design" isn't necessarily worse than a "tall one" with regards to the amount of load it applies to the printer... It depends on the whole design.. Best regards...
Yes, you’re exactly right. I mention in the description that I cut a lot of footage out of the final video. Some of that was a more in depth explanation about torque. If your torque being applied in the clockwise direction is equal to the counter direction, there will be no net torque. I’m not 100% sure, but I assume the voron designers did their best to balance it around the mounting point. Unfortunately for the Hero Me system, it would be a mountain of work to make sure that every single configuration is balanced in any way. I personally don’t think it would be useful in high speed situations where those things matter as much
As far as length and detail ... it works for me! But, yeah, I can see that it might limit viewership. IMHO this is a good long-term investment which should still have relevance in a few years, so it might have a pretty long tail. I guess it's the kind of thing where you need to find a good compromise on your investment in scripting and editing. It's possible you could break it into parts, but I think as it is it had a pretty reasonable flow with each step building up to something. It's also hard to make good standalone parts that also work as a playlist :-).
You kinda nailed my inner turmoil on the head. It’s weird to play the RU-vid game because it feel disingenuous, but you have to play it for people to see the content. You can make the most valuable videos and have them seen by nobody. Watching back after posting, I actually felt okay about what I’d created. I think I just kinda lost the plot and needed to move on. Thanks for your kind words, and it’s nice to see you under another video!
Do yourself a favor and buy a set of feeler gauges and use those to set your Z offset. You want to be just touching the feeler gauge and then you can subtract the thickness of the gauge (I use the 0.3 on my set because its easier to see.) when you configure your Z-offset and then your printer knows EXACTLY where the bed is and you wont have to eyeball anything.
I’m personally part of the school of thought that believes Z offset is better done visually. My reference is Ellis’s 3d tuning guide. I’m also not sure how gauges work on a textured bed? I just don’t know what z offset leads to a perfect first layer. If I knew it was .2 mm or something, I’d definitely go with your method!
Someone's probably already said it, but I can't find anyone saying it, so I'm going to: Hero Me Gen 5 (and maybe 6, I dont remember when he switched to heat press inserts...) uses captive nuts, just like you suggested. it's still readily available on all the major 3d printable file hosting siites.
My bone stock Ender3v2 can do the pin support challenge no problem, even the sphere. Only tried it with PLA tho. Overhangs at 65° look really solid. I'm considering switching to the Mini Satsana cuz it's super simple and doesn't need extra parts. Hopefully the bi-directional cooling is an actual improvement over stock.
This is a pretty cool concept...the modular build. The negative is it adds a lot of weight with all the screws and inserts and multiple wall thicknesses that would go away if designed as a single piece with a simple snap on cover.
The Hero Me system is pretty cool. It's also one of the lightest. Ive tried quite a few different tool head designs on my bed slinger and settled on the HM. It's Gen 6 or 5 can't remember. Most people will only use the HM on a bed slinger so tool head weight isn't as much of an issue as the bed will always be heavier and the limiting factor for Accel and print speed. If your using this on a core xy then you should probably re think your choice. There are better options, Dragon burner for example.
For anyone buying a soldering iron, considering getting a pinecil instead. It's around $25 and it's better then most irons in every way. Also you can buy a tool from CNC kitchen that also fits into this made for heat inserts. It's open source as well, can be used with USB-PD.
While I respect the work and research of the hero me contraption I have always thought it looked too bulky and overboard for what it does. I like simple designs, this is the complete opposite.
I definitely agree on the design side. But, when designing for use with some many different printers and components, it makes sense! I personally want to design my own print head when I get the spare time!
Pinecil or similar are also valid offerings for the same price or less. Soldering irons are becoming more accessible, and it's a wonderful thing. Sea Shanty 2 is the only choice, btw.
I’ve had my eye on the pinecil for a while! I’m glad they are more accessible. Such a valuable skill to have from car maintenance to fixing stuff around the house. Hehe glad people notice the music
nice, I plan on building the same toolhead for my ender 3. I kept trying to find a solid video that goes in depth about the hero me gen setup and did just that!
The data sheets show they push about the same amount of air. I think the culprit is the fan guard on the noctua! Another commenter told me that noctua has made 4x10 fans at 24V for 3d printing so that’s the direction I’m going!
Good video. On the laminar flow topic, that would pertain to the flow inside the ducting. Once the air leaves the duct and starts to run into things, it will quickly turn into turbulent flow. The laminar flow inside the duct will definitely increase output of air at the nozzle. While I'm not a cooling expert, I am a Mechanical Engineer. We had to study this topic in fluid power and thermodynamics. Using a flow software such as Ansys would show the improvement to output. I know there are some alternatives and even a free online software that Teaching Tech has a video about how to use it.
Yeah, I’m just a baby, perspective ME but I’ve been trying to create “laminar” flow for a laser nozzle but it’s been, challenging. In order to achieve laminar flow (sub 2k Reynolds Number) at the current flow rate, the nozzle orifice would have to be 70mm, rather than 2mm. I’m just shooting for MORE laminar flow though, and there’s already a massive amount of improvement with the nozzle designed by Nervous System. I’m now trying to constrain the paths more and design based on air characteristics rather than water in the super soaker based design. All that to say, fluid dynamics is hard :(
Thanks for the great info! I now know the laminar flow refers to inside the ducts. I do still wish I could see some simulation/know how important the laminar flow is in these context!
My own solution: I stopped printing PLA. no more parts cooling needed, less wires, less volume around the hotend, and less weight :) I used a hero me before though, and it worked great.
@@SpencersDesk I am mostly using PETG, with a little ABS and ASA when I need more rigidity. I do have issues with PETG and overhangs without supports nor cooling above a 45 degree angle though. Right now I am printing 3" tubes with various angles and length to model a turbo downpipe (with merging external wastegate). That way I can order the right stainless tubes and bends :) I managed to print at 150mm/s with cheap PETG, so that a win :D
I love my hero me setup that I just put together about a week ago. I just don't get why all those led mounts (the one you used included) block so much of the view of the hotend. Kinda counterintuitive to add lights so you can see better but then block the view with those lights 😅. I'll probably design my own light mount that will sit at the sides instead of in the way.
Haha yeah I also noticed this. I’m unlikely to use that mount either. That’s an issue with the HeroMe, it can do just about everything, but it’s not REALLY good at anything (except the cooling). Thanks for your comment!
@@SpencersDesk yeah there's definitely compromises but it's totally understandable for such a modular system. Luckily the extra weight isn't much of an issue on a bedslinger.
@@SpencersDesk oh for sure! I usually have it running pretty low for most prints. I only crank up speeds and fans when doing rapid prototyping. Their layer adhesion sucks, but they do their job in checking test fitments!
Yes! I am okay. I was finishing up my masters thesis and applying to residencies at the time so I think I would’ve been 3 coffees in with no breakfast for much of the project. It’s incredibly kind of you to take the time to ask, thank you!
My PLA has higher than 60°c GTT. I often bake my PLA to get rid of the moisture at 63°c and it is no where near the transition temp. The material is just warm. Not soft.
I may have misspoke. I think it’s actually around 100C. I also remember most people saying that 45-50 is enough for drying PLA? But anyway, thanks for pointing that out!!
Laminar flow is not good for heat transfer. That’s common knowledge (as in very apparent when googling). As others said, the laminar flow refers to the movement of the air through the ducts (which I believe is more efficient, but I’ve never seen data showing how effective it is). When laminar flow is mentioned, it’s only referring to air movement, not heat transfer. I can go more in depth into why turbulent flow is better for heat transfer if you’d like, but it is just a google search. The short summary is in turbulent flow, there’s chaotic motion, particles ramming into everything (how heat is transferred). In laminar flow, there are these boundary layers, where sheets of fluid move parallel to each other, with little interaction between the layers. Hope that makes sense
@@SpencersDesk what's crazy to me is that you actually read my comment without even stopping to think about it for just 1 second. you instantly went to google. yes i know how heat transfer works and yes i know that turbulent flow is better for heat transfer (i've never said otherwise). i made fun of the fact that you said "laminar flow is a buzzword" as if it's something made up out of thin air. instead of copy pasting, do your research and then make a video explaining. hope this helps
You said I don’t understand heat flow as if I misrepresented a topic, which I don’t believe I did. Feel free to point out where I fell short and I’m happy to admit that (as I have in my past videos where I’ve been wrong). And no, laminar flow is not a made up word. But I do believe it’s overemphasized in the Hero Me marketing. Also, I didn’t go straight to google. I did my research before filming the video. When I reply to comments, I put genuine thought and effort into my replies. I’m here to learn and grow with others, not to stroke and protect my ego.
You should consider whether a Bowden or DD is more worth it for you A DD adds so much to parts complexity, weight and resonance to the toolhead for pretty minimal gains unless you're printing extremely picky filaments
I’m definitely planning on it! I think when I started printing I got this idea in my head that Bowden was just a cheaper way for manufacturers to manufacture. But these days I’m planning on the Bowden! I don’t have many plans on printing with flexible or anything, so there shouldn’t be any major loss.
@@riba2233 Aside from all Ive mentioned the only additional benefits I can think of are Less filament flex, better nozzle pressure. What other gains can you think of? Theyre nice for 50mm/s odd material types of printing, but far far worse for higher speed printing. I personally print at 15K Accel, 350mm/s.
@@RyLo18D pressure control is abysmal, around 20x worse than on DD so you can forget about any kind of nice results while printing faster. No problems of printing below 50mms ofc, agreed on that one. But now that we have sub 140g DD extruders (stepper included) I don't see the point of bowden, just not worth it imho
An impromptu alternative to silicone sock is to simply wrap your hotend (if you don't intend to print much above 260°C) in Kapton tape. If you push it too far, it might carbonise but the outgassing is probably not particularly poisonous, unlike Teflon. Also pay attention that what you got is actual polyimide tape, not brown-tinted PET tape, which is something unscrupulous sellers now do. The PET tape, when you heat it up, it melts and shrinks, while Kapton/polyimide will not shrink or melt. What can happen with good part cooling if you don't have any thermal insulation on your hotend, is also that the amount of heat pumped into the hotend is so high that the heat wanders up the throat, which will cause clogs. Whether this happens, or whether you get thermal error from the firmware, depends on your PID tune and your heater power relative to how much filament you're pushing through. 40W and slow printing is easily sufficient to cause heat rising. An interesting filament material is HIPS, it is very cheap and lightweight and prints very easily even open frame with good dimensionality and fair (not perfect) layer adhesion and doesn't tend to warp, and it has temperature resistance somewhere between that of PETG and ABS/ASA. Something to keep in mind is that HIPS, ABS and ASA are not naturally flame retardant, unlike PETG. The slim fan being "just as quiet" as Noctua for sure has less airflow. But if it suffices, it suffices. Also you might want to stock up on smaller voltage step-down boards, like Mini360. I suggest thinking twice before using CA glue on electronics. Sure electrically it's fine (when arc flash is not a hazard), but if you ever have to rework the board, you need to keep in mind to solvent wash it off thoroughly or you'll be breathing in horrible poison once you start soldering; and you might struggle washing off CA without also washing off the wire insulation. Kafuter silicone is good to have. Epoxy is good too. Dropping a tiny length of filament on the edge and then fixing it with a soldering iron is valid in my opinion, just don't forget to tin and clean the tip right afterward to wash off all the junk. I do think near-laminar flow is potentially of advantage, since you don't want to cool everything, just the bead that has just exited the nozzle. Most turbulent setups will just send air every which way. You probably want a little turbulence but not much.
Thanks for all the wisdom! I definitely prefer silicone socks as you can take them off for cleaning and higher temp filament. But using Kapton on the print bed sounds like a solid idea! I’d never heard of HIPS. Is there any advantage to it that makes it better than the others? Is there something bad about it that has made it less popular? I’d looked for 24V to 12V step down boards but I could only ever find larger buck converters. I’ll look into the 360!
@@SpencersDesk I just noticed that the Mini360 is not intended to be used with 24V. Absolute Maximum Rating is 26V input but 24V is JUST outside the recommended voltage range, accounting for tolerances. Whoops :D MP1584 is recommended for 24V inputs (AMR is 30V), the boards come out just slightly bigger due to external diode. HIPS? It's very pretty and very well behaved while having a fairly high temperature resistance, and being an order of magnitude less stinky than ABS. I don't have the budget for ASA, i absolutely hate ABS, but i have been having a lot of fun with HIPS. Everyone who actually used it says it's a highly underrated material. It's got support material stigma attached to it, since it's usual purpose is as dissolvable supports for ABS, since it's easily dissolved in limonene but ABS isn't. But it prints so nicely that it's a shame not to print it!
Thanks, man. I not into the HeroMe, because of the overhang to the front of the mounting point and the fact that with 2 big fans the center of mass is shifted so far out. I personally have the Spriteburner on my ender 3 s1, one 5015 right above the extruder motor. That's enough for me, on 100% its enough for petg bridging. For the rest, about 50-60% is fine. It looks janky, but that's okay 😊 Appreciate the time you put into testing and explaining, thanks for that. I did learn quite a bit here 👍
I’m not a huge fan of the bulkiness of the print head either. I’d like to design my own print head, moving to a Bowden style extruder probably. Swapping the touch for a clicky probe. Having a single part cooling fan, which I’ve got a special idea for. Until then, it’ll stick around!
