I put this system on my old (no riving knife/splitter available) and it works great. I've watched this video several times. Your videos are so clear and your enthusiasm is contagious.
Thanks for going through the installation. You simplified the process tremendously. I have a Craftsman 113.298762 and had to use a metal drill bit to drill through the throat plate lip for the last kerf keeper hole, but it wasn't difficult, just a heads up for anyone else out there with a 113.298762.
Thanks for the kind words. 3x3 Custom does great work. For the older saws that do not have the 2" behind the blade that we recommend, you can use our Steel Pro Splitters, but only drill for the first one, leaving the second off. This requires about half the space of the two-splitter setup.
I installed my first micro-jig about a month ago. MY wife is happy (she's a worry wart.) I am secretly more comfortable and am getting better quality cuts as well. I really prefer it over my after-market riving knife. Richmond VA
Hello Madam, I also have this Dewalt table saw, thank you for this ingenious explanation, but I would also like to know where to get this insert suitable for this table saw. I reside in Israel, far from the United States; if you could let me know where I can order this part, I will be very grateful to you.
I never thought about sagging inserts! Thanks for that. And thanks for telling us that the second splitter pops free when a board squeezes it. Those little gadgets are ingenious.
Finesse, we do not sell the Zero Clearance Insert. You can buy them in many places and making your own is often not too difficult. Do a web search for "Zero Clearance Insert" and your saw model. That should give you buying options. As for making your own, Woodworker's Journal has a pretty great video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z5er5jVg3zE.html
Great video, as are all of your videos.. great explanations of why as well as how. My woodworking chops not so hot-- comfortable with metal (mess up - weld it up and do it over!!) but wood has always scared me..kinda. I have an older Craftsman 10" saw and it does not allow for a riving knife which obviates the ability to make use a cross cut sled-- too dangerous without that protections. This appears to bet he perfect solution to both accuracy, ability to make smaller cuts and make and use a sled (saw you vids on that topic too!!) I am now a subscriber and look forward to becoming more educated as a result. Thanks, Larry
I have only one question...I am going to start using a 7-1/4" blade instead of a 10. Should I use my 10" to make this or can I use my 7-1/4? I'm going to do this....this week thank you
is that a wood insert or medal I only have a regular insert that's medal insert( like the first one you showed. )What thickness and type of material did you use to make a clearance insert
William, you can buy plates already made in phenolic or nylon. You can also make your own out of a good quality 1/2" plywood. Use your existing plate as a template for making a Zero Clearance plate.
Must be an optical illusion because that blade does not look centered in that slot. The front of the blade looks to be closer to the fence than the back of the blade. Is it just me or does anyone else see it too? I'm sure it's just the camera angle and the curvature of the blade but it looks crazy - lol.
I have an old Crafstman/Sears table saw - the factor throat plate is only 1/16 inch thick (metal). How would I go about creating a zero clearance insert for something that thin? (non-standard thickness)?
You can cut aluminum with wood blades (be wary of plastic tools/parts anywhere the saw dust would normally shoot), .0625" aluminum flat stock + router and the trick with creating the blade slot shown in the video and you're rolling.
I think the amount of flex in the standard throat plate is insignificant unless one deliberately pushes down on pushstick more than needed on a small workpiece. If workpiece is larger then it is fully supported by tablesaw top and flex should not be a problem. What do you think?
Brian Prusa yep I know, but don’t understand why. Like I said I’ve ran zero clearance inserts on my DeWalt saw (same model) and had no problem cutting a slot for the riving knife.
I got a 1950's Unisaw recently and if there ever was a riving knife it's long gone and a factory replacement can't be found. This thing might help my wife and my dad stop nagging me...
Cheri, if you look, you will see a small screw head in the edge of the throat plate she is using. That is adjusted to fit the plate into the opening so it does not move within the top opening. It also helps to keep the plate in place. Not all throat plates are lockable in the way you mean.
@@MicrojigI’m talking about her stock plate…it’s the same one I have and there’s a lock knob center bottom. She ran that test piece through without locking the plate down. 😮
Dean, every brand and often even model of saw has a different ZCI, so any link is not likely to be relevant to your saw (Sawstop alone has lists 4 different sizes and three different styles) Best bet is to do a search online using your saw make and model.
ya ya ya. Let's see what your building that needs such exactness. This is not a star ship we are building here. as more farter for the videos Good luck with all of that.
Sorry you found it too complicated. The process requires attention, but is not difficult, many thousands of users are safely cutting on their table saws using our MJ Splitters.
Instead of modifying the insert and/or the riving knife you are throwing it away and switching to a splitter , which is inferior in every way. No, thanks. Bad tutorial.
Actually, we are VERY clear about using the riving knife if your saw has one. All NEW saws sold in the US have a riving knife now, but MANY older saws still in use do not. Also, the riving knife opening is often too large to safely cut very thin strips. The strips can fall into the riving knife opening. For example, the opening on the SawStop is about 1/2" wide so you cannot safely rip anything less than 3/8". By using a ZCI with MJ Splitters, I can safely rip down to 1/8" using the GRR-RIPPER.
