Dude, So I have a Range rover with this transmission. I watched your video sereral times and bought all the parts. I did this job in my driveway with my son and it worked out perfectly. Thank you so much for providing this. You saved me over $1000 if I had Land Rover to do it. I know this doesn't help the small business cause you are providing a step by step but I really appreciate it. Inserting the new umbilical sleeve was giving me a hell of a time but I watch again and bam it went in! Anyone reading this , don't be afraid to do this work. Its not that difficult especially if you wact his video. THANK YOU AGAIN. 😀
@@Mrbeest0 When it went into limp mode it kind of stayed there until I cleared it with my scan tool. But eventually the solenoids really started to fail so I was forced to fix it. As noted in the video change all the parts all at once. Cause once you break the sealing surface from the mechatronics unit, you have to replace the 3 black tubes that transfer fluid back and fourth. I did not do that and had a pause between 1st and 2nd gear. Ordered the parts on amazon and took it apart again and replaced the tubes and the slipping went away. Also get several cans of brake cleaner to blow out debris from all the ports , just in case. The step I had to review in the video was how to install the new electrical umbilical adapter. Pushing on it with a pry bar finally got it to seat. I had to let the transmission re-learn again by driving 0-60 and let it coast to a stop, no brakes. But it is running good now.
This video was 100% on point. I raised my rover up dropped the megatronic unit and got all new solenoids from ZF with the tubes and new gaskets. My rover drives 100% better shifts are smooth as butter now. Thank you for this video
I run redline D4 in my 335d with no issues. A vast improvement over the semi synthetic oem fluid. Lifeguard 6 has boron that turns into boric acid as it breaks down and degrades over time. Ill stick with d4
Yeah I’m sure you can notice the difference between the Lifeguard6 and the D4 fluid😂🤡, 210k miles with Lifeguard 6 (multiple fluid/filter changes) and not a single tranny issue in my E70. Nothing wrong with the original fluid. Although it is a little pricey…
I recommend removing and cleaning the pistons which sit in the valvebody behind the solenoids. Also, give the hole a squirt of brake cleaner. All that dark fluid contains clutch lining material which can get trapped in those holes and interfere with the movement of the pistons. I was trained to cycle the piston in and out to detect any burrs or interference in the movement. A sticky piston will not be cured by a new solenoid.
@@ShopLifeTV Any way we BMW fans can help each other out! Your videos are excellent btw. I have been following you for about two years. Keep up the good work!!
If you're going to clean the rubber ones that come with it you might as well buy the $50 metal upgraded ones...they use a spring to press the seal rather than relying on the rubber to say supple. Just makes sense if you're going to go through the trouble of dropping the pan and cracking open the valve body.
Awesome video!! I call this the big boy's version of Lego. It seems super easy to follow your video. This makes me super tempting to tackle these jobs myself instead of paying someone to do it. Although a bit of elbow grease and sweat are needed. I have already done a lot of work on my car myself, saving a ton of money is one thing. Such jobs are super interesting and satisfying.
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL VIDEO STEP BY STEP, THANKS SO MUCH~~ i Just finished switching out all the solenoids and harness on my 2008 BMW 750li. I'm hoping this fixes all the issues with electric parking brake (replaced the gear in the trunk). And the codes for solenoids in trans. There was lots of transmission oil drained out so will refill with the ZF Life 6. This video is amazing and really appreciate very detail steps. I used this video and the other one to install the megatronics back into the trans and put on new trans filter and bolts. The valve sleeve was a bit tricky. It sure does how that megatronics in. Definitely needs to be remove first.
Outstanding video and great job. It got me through my first solenoid change after having shifting issues on my 2012 BMW 750LI Xdrive. Answered a couple of questions during the assembly process when the spring pushed out the plunger and I didn't notice the orientation of the plunger. Also the location of the shift linkage insertion to the slider. Thanks.
Great video bro, I just bought a 05 HSE 4.4 Rover for 500 bucks here in Canada, the guy said the trans was toast but I dont think it is, I can put it in drive, or reverse and it wont move, the truck is in awesome shape and worth changing the solenoids, I hope it works, Ill update when I'm done, thanks bro
Hello thanks for all your knowledge and teachings. I am in the process of installing seals, new solenoids, new oil pan and oil on my 2010 528i. I do not have inpa which one should I get All the ones I have found only work on Windows 7 which is old I have window 10 and above thank you
crawling on my back underneath the car im having bit of a faff connecting the plug in part of the electrics then locking it in place turning it anti clock wise to lock it az it instructs so im wondering is it possible ive got it plugged in the wrong way round would the pins still fit if that was the case ?? i got the sleave back in no problem which is ironic az most seem to have problem with that part and easy the next part plugging in and locking . ps awsome info bud you show peeps how to really save a fortune, true rightiousness in this modern age ,good man .
Thanks, brother and sister for sharing. Hopefully, you will do this to a 7-speed DCT(GS7D36SG) one day. Mine is now on 50t miles and I want to change the oil and both filters in the near future. Dutch regards, Nico.
Hi there great video. When you changed out the black solenoid there in a spring and little black sleeve behind it. What is that sleeve called? I’m looking for one because mine is missing. I’m putting together a valve body that someone else started. Any idea what the part is called or where I might be able to find one. I’ve research can find it. I appreciate any help you can give
Excellent. I just got a z4 and don't think there's any trans issues, but, I'm getting educated for when the time comes. So, you swear by Lifeguard? I'll defer to your advise. I've used Valvoline Max life on my Hondas(not the recommended fluid either) and has worked well for 400k! . With that said, I watched another guy swear by the Max life on other BMW's he's worked with. Anyway, regardless of my experience, I'll go with the Lifeguard. Good video, thanks for the info.
Great explanation! Planning on doing my own solenoid replacement based on your video. Just to confirm that I would not have to program the transmission after changing solenoids? Just drive normally around town and put some miles on it and it will adapt itself? I do not have ISTA/P and a dealer is an 8 hour drive from me.
Im wondering... why the solenoids break in a first place ? how do they look inside ? Solenoid is in principle very simple device. Couldnt be reason of their "failure" be only some oring for 10cents ?
Took the valve body from the E65 BMW 7 series and installed it into a replacement transmission unit, it struggles to get above 40 mph and has no acceleration, does I require coding to resolve the issue?
have you ever fixed " Transmission failsafe activated. Possibility of redused acceleration. Have checked by the nearest BMW service " by just replacing the solenoids or is it usely something worse
Hi from here in Africa. Amazing set of video's. The same gearbox is used in the LR3. Mine tends to hold first gear a little to long instead of changing into second gear. Would you suggest the solenoids or something else? Many thanks.
I've got a 2003 Range Rover TD6 with a 5 speed GM auto transmission. Reverse gear is slipping badly but everything else is functioning fine. Do I need to change the solenoids? Any advice is much appreciated
I was wondering why when you changed out the solenoids you didnt explain what solenoids did what, like solenoid 1 does what, controls what ? and so on and so on
Controls the 1st gear… it’s pretty self-explanatory. A solenoid is not a computer. It is a simple device that actuates a valve which engages a gear. Each forward gear has one solenoid. Reverse also has a solenoid. Cars with E-shifter gear shifters have a park solenoid that puts the vehicle in Park. There is also a solenoid that controls the parking brake.
Hi I have an 2008 X5 E70 and when your are driving suddenly she goes to Neutral when do a downshift (mostly 3rd to 2nd) , No error show even in BMW scan.... Solenoids may have no codes??? If you drive like a grandma, no problems at all...
07 bmw 325 I transmission will not engage in 3rd gear and slips and jerks when trying to go into third gear. what could be the possible issue? thank you
I’m getting a 507d code and the car will go in reverse and drive but as soon as it starts moving it jumps back into park. I just changed all sleeves with zf parts and added lifeguard fluid. Car still jumping in park. Do you think my problem is the solenoids
hello ShopLifeTV. Thank you for this video. I have an E60. there isn’t any transmission issue per se, but after running a scanner, it mentioned 4E86 Solenoid valve 3 code. I was planning on doing this very video procedure, but you mentioned resetting the “adaptations.” How is that done? Thank you again for sharing your knowledge!!!
I just changed ATF on my jag zf 6hp transmission hoping to get rid of my 3-4 shift problem. Its been a few hours but my mechanic says i should use it for a few weeks. I can shift manually through all the gears but have to ease off the pedal shifting into 4th. LAUNCH OBD2 shows that solenoid 4 is inactive. In still hoping for the best so i don't need to go through this. It's a 2009 but only have 38k km on it.
Hello every one. I have 2010 BMW 550i M-Sport 4,8L with 6HP26 transmission. I have two code 4F8F and 4F81. Replacement bridge seal and 4 sleeves make better drive feelings but not for long. After accelerate up the hill road codes come back and limb mode ON again. Any idea what to do? Thing to change all solenoids but it is no solenoids error code.
I just want to said thank you, I have a similar problem with mine jeep gc seems like they using similliar transmission, scanner said incorrect ratio speed ,people said I need to change the transmission, but I think the problem could be the solenoids or change the transmission oil , this is the code it trow p0731,thanks you I feel less stressed
Awesome videos thanks mate! Question though followed your advice on replacing bridge seal and the 4 tube seals on my zf6hp26x in my 2004 e53 X5. I am still getting the hard downshift from 2 to 1 though. Funnily it is slightly better when in sport mode. Not replaced solenoids yet. I will do that though. Any other suggestions as to what could cause the hard shift from 2to 1 other than the mechatronics seals? Thanks.
Hey Julian. I have a E60 530i and got the same issue of hard shifting from 2nd to 1st gear and the problem is not as severe when sport mode is engaged. I've researched and found that replacing the shift solenoids is pretty much the only way to eliminate this problem.
My E53 when coasting down hill and shifting from 2nd to 3rd it gives a jolt. However if I keep foot on gas to keep rpm up,.it doesn't jolts. Any ideas?
Nice job! Thank you.. I have an 06 LR3 with a P0501-00 code and the transmission won’t engage. If I undue the battery for a while it will go away. When I start it back up, I can drive it for several yards & then the p0501 pops up & the trans disengages. Does this sound like the, “losing pressure” you were describing? Do you believe this service will fix my issue? I realize the p code points elsewhere & I’ve ordered new speed sensors. I’ve also cleaned the TCU and it looks great.
Damn that oil looks dirty on that pad. I changed my oil, filter and the plastic components and it was not that dirty at 77k miles 335d car. Also was experiencing occasional shift flares along with overly firm shifting on gears 2-3 that was worse when cold. Flushed trans and that didn't help. I should do the solenoids next?
Terrific video and thank you for the detailed video. I’ve got a Maserati 2007 with 6 speed auto. 6HP26 I believe. Would the procedure be the same as this video? Also, where can I buy the whole kit? Including filter and sleeves etc.
I wish I could find a mechanic like you in the New York area! This is my 2nd E60 (2010 550i M) where I get hesitation/stuttering/shuddering when I am slowing down and then accelerating. I want to say it happens from 2nd to 3rd gear. I can replicate easily by setting my cruise control at 65mph... and then slowing down to about 45 and using the cruise controls to accelerate back to 65mph. It happens with normal driving but though I share how I can also do it via CC. Is this a transmission issue? or a coil/spark plug? No CEL.
My car did the same sort of thing, she’s a yard ornament rn😥😥. I would start by looking underneath the car to see if there’s any evidence fluid was changed like stripped out torx bolts. Also check your guibo joint it goes bad and creates a shuddering issue like you described, and has nothing to do with the transmission. Just a cheap plastic part that is supposed to reduce vibration from drive shaft it goes bad on most bmws within 10 years.
Great video, my car range rover 2006 ZF transmission. The D automatic drive stuck at 3rd gear, but the standard S is working fine. I can shift all the gear to run the car. If I do not replace the rubber tube as this video, will the standard shift will stop working when the rubber tube getting worst?
I've been thinking about something when it comes to my car and this video. I don't think I changed the black solenoid on my valvebody. Could that be the source of my electronic gear shifter not being recognized by my transmission? Every other solenoid got changed except that one, the seals were replaced (one was broken)and the fluid was also replaced. My car will not shift out of park though.
Hi! Thank you very much for this video! I have a 2012 Land Rover LR4 with 116K. Never had any problems. Then one of the hoses of auxiliary transmission cooler got disconnected and I lost all the fluid. Refilled with original fluid, drove for 2 days without any problem other than shifting from 3 to 4 hard. Then stopped shifting to 4. It drives normal on 1,2,3 but can not shift to 4 and gives error code.. P0783 3-4 shift malfunction. Does this sound like a solenoid problem too?
How can I determine which sensors are the right ones? Something about matching the transmission model? I'm also trying to have the seals inside them changed (not the ones without taking it apart, the ones that you have HAVE to take apart the mechatronics)
@@ShopLifeTV I have a question for you after you do this procedure so you have to reprogram something because I did this procedure now my car won’t start or crank
2006 Range rover 8 cyl. P0968 Solenoid C open how ever the I don't see any letters on info I find just numbers. Any literature with solenoids labeled with letters? Thanks Great videos
I have a 6Hp-19 transmission on BMW 320 I, that the intercooler let the water on the oil, I replace the intercooler and wash it out oily water five times with chevron automatic transmission fluid and then use the same fluid, after about 40 miles the red warning light came on the dash board and lock the transmission in second gear. Did I damage some thing or what can I do?
Hi ! I have followed the DIY. I have change all the selenoids on 2004 E60 i also change all vales sleeve . The car starts up for me to fill up the oil. But next day the no crank no start. On the cluster all the light work , but except the Park, reverse, neutral, drive . Do you have any idea. Also i put the on reverse or drive car still can roll. Do you think machetronic position sensor fo bad.
I just bought a 2006 e90 last year it’s got about 236,000 KM on it like 170,000 miles or something and it’s starting to shift a bit rough I’ve been wanting to do this my fear is it’s never been done before and it’s too late to save shifting is not horrible but I’d like to get it sorted would you recommend a fluid change before this ?
Hi, thanks for your effort. I have a question. I have 2008 bmw 535i with 100k miles. My car has hard shifting issue if i drive slow. It is like car does not want to shift up. Gears are shifting little slippery to go up. Sometimes it is having same issue while downshifting. Gearbox shift well if i drive aggressive. There is no code. I have full system diagnostic tool for Bmw. I will change fluid but thinking about to change solenoids and sleeves. What do you guys think and advise? Thank you.
I have a 2011 BMW 740i and I’m getting code 400626 turbine speed sensor. The shop that I took it to wants to replace the transmission for $5100. Is there anything else I can do with out spending 5K
Hi I bought a 2008 330d yesterday, and 4th to 5th gear changes are rough under load, also in 5th gear under load the car jerks or wobbles as if it's struggling then in 6th gear it's fine ? do you think it could the the same issue replace the solenoids my local bmw specialist said it could be this
Howsit im from south africa i wanna know a 2003 e46 320i auto does it have a 6hp or 5hp transmission and if buyed wrong solonoid either for 5hp or 6hp will they work. Thank you kindly.
I changed the solenoids and everything but when I put everything back. The Range Rover won’t start. Like there’s no start/crank at all. Range Rover don’t crank
