Gary your attention to detail blows my mind and has been key to my own trouble shooting thank you for you. your an awesome teacher and great mech. thank you Tracey
Gary you're an artist with the ZF transmission. This video dragged a little because you recorded it in real-time, but it was exactly how to do the work and included an excellent commentary along the way. I can see why the transmission specialist should probably do this bushing replacement due to the specific knowledge of this subsystem. Thank you for posting!
@@GaryFerraro At the moment, I don't have any codes, but my 09 335i sedan (6AT, zf6hp19 or 21) does occasionally shift hard 2-3. I can do the mechatronics solenoids, fluids,sealing sleeves, and mechatronic adaptor, but rebuilding the trans or mechatronics are probably beyond my current capabilities. What are some good questions to ask a local transmission guy before committing to their services?
You've certainly come a loooong way on the video quality and lighting. I didn't realize your 1st video was last year and not this one. :) I enjoy your explanations and breakdowns. Keep 'em coming!
I just replaced the input seal and it's still leaking after low speed drives - after high speed drives there is no leak. I guess it is coming down again to do this. Awesome video!
I just rebuilt my e60 transmission change the pack dics .. but still got problem with the reverse when am reversing suddenly it's slip... The car don't move back?? What the problem?
Hi Gary, there is this mystery and nobody can find the answer, if you change the transmission oil after 100k or more to a good transmission, why it could break ? What are the possible causes ? You probably have seen scenarios, could you let the world know ?
That rule was for back in the day, the cooling systems for the transmissions are much more elaborate and keep the fluid cool enough where it doesn't break down as fast. Back in the day they had holes cut in bellhousings to keep the trans cool(didn't work very well). If the trans has a 100k on it and it works ok you will be fine. I just serviced a Mercedes with 196K and no problem, worked fine before and after. Back in the day the fluid got like varnish because it wasn't cooled properly. If the trans has a problem a service probably won't help but if all is ok, you will be fine
Hello I have a little knock When downshift from 3 to 2 in D mode In manual if i let the car downshift herself no issues it is only in D mode On all the other gear no problem at all the gearbox is fantastic and smooth I plan to do an oil' service Do you know where does the problem come from ? Thks
the car is a single turbo and trans is in good condition problem is 92 k miles on a car thats making way more power than the worn trans can handle. Im from Va
Sou reparador de transmissão automaticas no Brasil e nao encontro esse tipo de ferramentas pra poder fazer uma instalação tao precisa assim de uma bucha meu sonho e poder atuar nos EUA
Hello would it be a good idea to place a scribe or so into the hole so it would stop the bushing going to far? Of course you'd have to make sure it didn't jam in it.
A shot in the dark but would you happen to have a spare bearing? The one you took off of the E hub cylinder. That axial bearing. Or know where i can get a replacement
Hi Gary. I have a BMW 530 E60 from 2008 with GA6HP19Z transmission (ESHIFT, the new gear lever) and the cooler broke. I have milky oil and water in engine coolant and also transmission. There was a violent vibration when accelerating but no fault codes. I went to the shop they flushed everything 4-5 times with clean transmission oil, changed driveshaft, center driveshaft bearing and guibo. The car doesn't vibrate like before, but you can feel an "all car" vibration from the middle of the car when reaching 50 to 80km/h . If you go above 80 it runs smooth. I tried also to drive it on manual mode and it seems in M3 it vibrates more than in M2. Am i looking at a complete gearbox rebuild ? The guys at the shop told me they flushed it so many times until the oil came out clean but they said that some milky mix could be in the torque convertor. Any opinion from you is appreciated. Thanks !
Yes, this was happening before this mechanic intervention. If i let go the gas, everything is back to normal in drive mode. If you drive over 80km/h it stops vibrating. This is happening only between 40km/h and 80km/h when the car probably is in lower gears. If it vibrates and i put in neutral while in motion, the vibration stops. Before changing the driveshaft and related components (guibo, center bearing) the vibration was real violent. Now it feels like driving the car on rock pavement. From my knowledge and what i've seen in your videos, vibration couldn't come from the transmission without having slipping clutches or loss of pressure or any of that. Or, on GS19 module in the car i don't have any fault picked up by mechatronics. I will go with the car again this Saturday to the mecanic to remove the gearbox and take a look at everything and keep you posted. Thanks !
I have a VB out of a 6hp19 2004 audi a4 1.8t quatro. The VB looks fine with no issues, a bit dirty but nothing broken. The car goes into gear but stalls as soon as you hit the brakes. Im pretty sure the torque converter clutch is stuck on. Does this problem point towards a solenoid or a TC clutch valve withing the VB? Whats your experience regarding the 6hp19? Whats the best place to get a new seperator plate? Thanks!
+Ivan WNY Hello, It certainly sounds like a TCC issue, i never had one stall on me, but the biggest problems with these units are the bushings and the solenoids, not sure where your located but there is a company in CT called Eriksson industries and they can test the solenoids to see if they are good or bad, i would also get a converter, the valvebody plate you can get from them or from transtar, there may be a code on the plate you would have to give them. Gary
Hello Gary, when installing oil pump and shaft back into trans, how far down should I go? I've got it down to where it was first separated and I don't want to force shaft down. Will oil pump screws adjust it to the correct depth? Or is a rubber mallet safe?
Sometimes it's a little hard to get it past the o-ring, you can use the bolts to tighten but once past the o-ring try just to push the pump down, when down all the way the pump will stop, after the bolts are tight make sure the input shaft turns
My BMW has a shudder when I accelerate a bit harder from 2000 to 3000 rpm. Also, gear 1 and 2 are acting up, i.e. the car is sluggish and has hickups (it accelerates and it stalls, it accelerates, it stalls - all these when I mildly accelerate from a standstil). Problem is present for 2 months now, I changed trans fluid and filter in spring, car has 100.000 miles, 2010 E90 LCI with GA6HP19. Could this be the torque converter? I don't see any leaks under the car btw. Your video is great btw., I watched every second of it.
@@GaryFerraro When I brake and stop, it downshifts nice. However, I do feel the washboard effect and that specific noise (like going over a curve paint marking) when I accelerate more vigurously from 2000 to 3000 rpm. The ride in 1st and 2nd gear also started to be a bit more noisy lately, like washboard. And when driving away after cold start, it feels a bit like going over rail road tracks.
Hi, saw you video, and I would like to get some help from you. My BMW X6 350d zf26 goes into limp mode when upshifting from 4th to 5th gear. The error code I’m getting is 4F85 gear monitoring coupling E. I have replaced the adapter seals+bridge seal, and put in new ATF fluid, reset the adaptations, but the problem is still there. No fault codes and issues while driving locally in the city, when I am using gears 1-4 only. Please help with your advice. Would replacing the stator bushing on clutch E solve the problem? Many thanks vilmos
Well, I traced this problem to either bad solenoids, a worn rear stator bushing. I also have seen the E clutch but if it does not happen on the 3-4 shift probably not the E clutch
Thanks for your quick reply! I was driving the car today 55miles to a place where I can work on the transmission. Using manual mode 1-4 was ok, but as I’ve shifted up 5-6th was causing problems even on small inclines. On straight road if I was extra extra extra gentle with throttle and using cruise control, the car allowed me to use 5-6th. BUT! even on the smallest throttle change...limp mode. Specially on the second part of the journey, when everything was up to temperature, the car started to jump in limp mode in 5-6th more and more often, on the last 20 miles I could use only 1-4 gear. What is interesting is, that 1-4th never goes in limp mode, no matter how hard I accelerate, though from 3 to 4 is a little bit harsher than 1-3, but just a tiny bit, almost unnoticeable . What shall I do first? Get the valve body and mechatronic unit tested first, or change the stator bushing? Your advice is highly appreciated! Sorry for this long message and my english.... Best regards vilmos
@@W15Garage Well, the common issue when the car gets hot is the stator bushing when there are issues in the higher gears, the 2 most common problems with this trans are the bushings and the solenoids, I would do both. First do the solenoids and reset the shift adapts(this is a must or trans will work the same way) Do you have a way of resetting the adapts? If ok great your done, if not go for the rear stator bushing. I heard of solenoid issues causing this problem and the bushing issue causing this problem. When cold does it shift ok?
After I’ve changed the rubber bushings and ATF, I’m not sure if the relearning procedure was done properly, as I have only a Delphi scan tool, not a special bmw one. I’ve done the reset by bringing the adaptation values to zero, then drove the car for 20 mins. But I didn’t followed a specific learning procedure.....adaptation values are different now though. For example clutch E was 644, now 258 C clutch is -310 after reset, the rest is in the middle of the scale showing good values. There is a company in England not far from me, they test valve body and solenoids. I’ll call them today, and find out how much they charge for a testing, before i buy the solenoids. When cold the car shifts smooth, like it should in all 6 gears, 5 mins later comes the limp mode in 5-6, BUT newer cold! Thanks very very much again for your help!!! Vilmos
Thanks great info. I'm rebuilding a ZF 6HP19Z. And the E clutch got hot enough to discolor the drum and the steels from heat, are they reusable ? Doesn't appear worn out, E clutches were worn out. My plan was replace clutch's, seals and bushings. Any advice? Thanks, Mike
07 BMW 530I 3rd to 4th gear change makes a short squawk noise during light throttle and longer squawk during harder acceleration, slight shutter during gear change as well. No faults, no flares, no slipping. Have installed new solenoids, mechatronic square seal, four sealing tubes, plug adaptor, lifeguard fluid and filter. And ideas? Could it be needing a valve body rebuild? or could the drum bushings be going out? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the helpful info. Now thinking about it I can't remember if it's 3rd to fourth or 2ND to 3rd it's more than likely clutch packs that are burned? Planning on rebuilding it and overhauling it anyway
Hey Gary, my 530i has codes for e clutch. Thinking the rear stator bushing is bad. This something I could DIY myself after pulling off the trans? Looks easy to get to without pulling everything out.
It's not bad, valvebody has to come off, the pump then the front half of the trans will slide out as one, would have to disassemble that to get to the E drum
Gary Ferraro if you had a 6hp19 with intermittent e clutch faults or slipping (and failsafe mode) between 4-5 and 5-6, what would you expect the issue to be? Is it always bushing or could it also be a valve body issue? I already changed bridge seal and the 4 smaller seals. Only slips between gears when it’s warmed up.
Dear Gary, i have a problem with a bmw 2004 e60 The car has a surging problem when driving at about 40mph The Tach jumps from 1500 rpm to 1800 rpm and u can feel it in the drive, so it is just not the tach bouncing. could it be the torque converter problem or the torque converter control in valve body? regards Tadej
Hey Gary 2007 BMW 530i jerks when coming to a stop. No DTC's The internal bushings seem fine and the mechatronics seal isn't cracked. Some people are advising me about a software update for the car. The drums aren't overheated. I'm reading this issue is very common on this transmission. I'm wondering if you have any experience with an issue similar to this one. What do you think
The transmission is taken apart but I cant find any damage. Some forums have advised me the dealer has an updated software for this issue, however some people report the bang is still noticeable after their software has been updated. Many who have complained enough to the dealer get their transmission replaced with a reman and the issue disappears completely. What do you recommend on this issue?
I have 2008 bmw 528xi slip on high throttle between 4-5 gears only after the valve body sleeve, the 4 tubes and transmission fluid change. never before. could bushing cause this problem
@@GaryFerraroFIRST WAS THE COMMON PROBLEM WITH ADAPTER PLUG CRACKED. I REPLACED IT AND ASLO REPLACED THE 4 VALVE BODY SEALING SLEEVES. Then i refilled the transmission once and drove to the dealer due to cold start slipping. The dealer topped up the transmission fluid to the required level and told me it was missing 3 quarts. it's all good now accept the shifting between 4-5 gears on harder throttle. it slip for friction of a second and than it shift. there is no noise or grinding when it slip. If i accelerate softly, there is no problem at all. I spent lot of time and money and didn't know if its something simple or the transmission is gone. thanks Gary for your concern.
@@daringman78 well, you could have a few problems with this code. How many miles? Could have bad E clutches, they like to flake. Could be a worn rear stator bushing. could be bad solenoids. Solenoids can be done without pulling the trans, then a shift adapt reset must be done
Hello, great videos, do you have any videos on fixing a manual tranny, for a 2000 323i, i am the original owner. I suddenly lost 1st gear, feels empty in that gear. i have been using 2nd gear and on to drive the car for the past year without issues, but dont have 1st. Any ideas?
Oscar Espinoza Is this a 5 or 6 speed? There not that easy to work on, transmission should be a Getrag, I had to make tools to get the trans apart, have you had it diagnosed to confirm the problem is internal?
Its a 5 speed, no i haven't had it diagnosed. The car has 70,000 original miles well kept. I think i'll look into just replacing it from a salvage yard, since your saying its not easy to work on. I am pretty good with car work, so figured i could fix it, but sounds like its too much of a headache :-). BTW thanks for the quick response!
@@GaryFerraro no. i mean the sliding play between shaft and bearing. I have pressed in the bearing and there is 2.5 hundredths of sliding play. is that okay or is that too much?
Why did ZF design bushings instead of needle bearings and dual seals. Beats me 🤷. It’s like buying a John Deere from Home Depot instead of buying from John Deere OEM. The difference is bushings instead of bearings, not made to last.
@@GaryFerraro my X5 slips a little, I added a quart of Lucas Tranny Slip goo, it’s like molasses I had to heat it up to pump it in. It’s been better for the past 60k but I know it won’t last. I’m only at 215k
@@absolutegtr My X5 diesel slips in 4th sometimes. It started around 150k miles or so, I added the Lucas and it mostly stopped but not 100%. Here’s my full story… When it first happened I had recently changed out 1/2 the fluid and replaced it with ZF tranny fluid, so I guess the bushing were cleaned by the new fluid allowing new passage, best guess not sure. In reality the original fluid simply went too long and it should’ve been changed out every 50k miles, hence the bushing wear or whatever is going on. After changing 1/2 the tranny fluid and now having a slipping ZF6 tranny, I then drained all the fluid out, removed the valve body, replaced all shift solenoids, sealing sleeve, rubber plugs and the harness bushing, it still slipped. That’s when I added the Lucus Tranny additive. I used all OEM parts and ZF tranny fluid. It does slip a little sometimes however I try not to let it. Otherwise local driving in town it doesn’t slip at all, it only slips on the highway. I wish it was simply a lock-up duty solenoid but it’s not. :-( I still tow my 16’ skiff to the boat ramp and back, and tow my 5x8 trailer with no issue, I just need to go easy on the tranny and be aware of 4th gear. It’s been about 60k miles and I was going to change the fluid again soon. I’m curious about what’s stuck to the magnets in the pan, if the fluid is black, or if it’s still clean. I’m a pretty good mechanic and might drop the tranny for a rebuild someday, but for now I would probably just add another quart of Lucas, and with a full tranny fluid change I would add two quarts. BMW’s are great cats if you buy the ISTA+ software and maintain it yourself. The dealerships are less than truthful, you pay master mechanic price, but you get some 1/2 baked apprentice. My car has been mechanically reliable under my care besides the tranny. 🤞 Words of wisdom; never trust a high maintenance tranny. 🤫
you should make a complete video, tool needed , procedure s and parts needed to do a complete rebuild and sell it i know ill pay for a copy so will the bmw community that ahs auto cars . n54tech.com
