So apparently Dale you and I read the same book on plating! We are doing vitrually hte same thing, Cadwell solutions, small DC power supply. Only difference is I use a small aquarium pump to move the fluid around and mix it up. I do a degrease in Hot distilled water before plating. I got a lifetime supply of fine copper wire from the guy who does my chrome plating for his cost (cheap by my standards). I gauge my current flow by watching how the surface is plating. I think I'm using the same plating solution from Caswell for nigh onto 20 years. You have some good ideas, the little basket is a great idea for degreasing, all in all it is a VERY time consuming process. I use 5 gallon pails which allows me to replate my spokes which seems to work out well. Thanks for taking the time to put these GREAT videos together.
Hey Alex, it does sound like we are using the same info. I do use an aquarium pump to move the fluid around to suspend the zinc coming of the anodes. I have done spokes only one time. It was for one of my own bikes and it took forever. I put the nipples on the spokes, or it will mess up the treads on the spokes. Is that how you do it? I thought about wrapping tape of some sort but thought the water would make it come off. I may do spokes again at some point, but for customer bikes it just is not the best use of my time. Hey thanks for the comment and for watching the channel.
@@montana2strokeracer Dale: Sorry to be so slow responding - just busy. I noted your comments about fit with spokes into the nipples after plating. I have done probalbly only a bout 10 or 12 wheels but I've never had an issue, the plating is only a few microns think at any rate. I typically prepare them with a wire brush (although I now have a vapor blaster which I'll try on the next set) and then do the usual -tye them to copper wire, hang 'em in the hot degreaser solution for about 20 minutes or so, rinse in distilled H2O and then into the plating tank for typically 30 minutes or so. When they come out I clean them up with a sanding mop of 320 grit (one that's a bit beat up - not brand new) and they come out looking great and fitting the nipples without any issues so far at least. I will agree it is VERY time consuming and not cost effective if you value your time or are selling it (such as when working on someone elses bike). I set my stuff up in a permanenet mobile unit with the three tanks insulated to help them heat up faster and uses less power to stay warm.. I found it was so time consuming pulling everything out and putting it away every time. Now I just lift the lids on the tanks, roll the cart out where I can use it and plug the power on - it's good to go.
Great job Sir I just discovered your channel and am plowing through them I have a 1975 MT 250 that is 80% done Sorry I didn’t know about your channel earlier Cheers!
High Mark, thank you very much for subscribing and watching, I had an opportunity to pick up a MT250 not long ago, but the seller just wanted more than I could pay. Hondas are really hard to come by here. Not sure why, but the other brands of the big four are sure more common. That being said, all of them are getting harder to find by each coming year. Glad to hear you are working toward completion on your project, they sure are a labor of love. These old bikes just really have a lasting effect on all of us that grew up with them. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop!
Hey thanks, but I have never heard of it. I just use the instructions from the supplier. It may be something new that's not in their old manual. I have been using the same components for over 20 years and haven't so far had any durability problems. I do appreciate the heads up though and will look into the process. Maybe you are referring to the drying with compressed air??? I will see what I can find on the subject.
@@montana2strokeracer They have a distributor in the UK, Caswell Europe. It's in Chichester, Sussex. That's where my Grandfather's army regiment was based!
I'm restoring 1960's British motorbikes and I love the finish you get - not too shiny. If I understood you correctly, the degree of shininess in the finished part is directly related to the shininess of the prepped part. In which case, can you say how you prepped those parts? I've seen plating videos where they use bench grinders with wire brush wheels, followed by two grades of scotchbrite wheels - and the parts come out looking as thought they have been chromed - but that is not the finish I want.
Hey Mark, it sounds like you're after a satin finish, that is the easy one, just bead blast and plate. You only polish with wire wheels and Scotch Brite if you want a shiny finish.
It works both as CV and CC. I run on CV because I need to adjust for the amount of square inches of parts Im plating. I think I just noticed a knob wasnt in the right place.
Thanks for another useful video, Dale. These are well done and packed with useful information. It appears you prefer not to chromate, have you had any negative experiences with it? I remember a while back you used the gold chromate on a choke lever when restoring a carb and it turned out great. I am looking to get the caswell starter kit when I can get a few spare dollars. Keep up the good work as these videos are the best motorcycle restoration videos on you tube in my opinion.
Thanks for the kind words, Jeff. No problems with chromate, just none of these parts required it. They were all just zinc/cadmium plated. I sure like the yellow chromate colors though.
