I think you are coming from a place of goodwill but this is a misleading video about a product that did not fit your needs and that you did not use properly.
I've had nothing but fantastic results with 123. It's taken care of all the sins that the previous homeowner made and allowed me to fix it. It's had tenacious grip on any surface I've used it on.
Prep the surface for primer first. Clean it, sand it, clean it again and then prime it. I've been panting and varnishing for around thirty years. It well work if you do it right.
I'm using that primer no and I definitely did not sand my walls and it's high gloss. You might need 2 or 3 coats. She didn't use it how it was suppose to be use. It's a dresser draw of course it's going to peel. A wall it won't peel it acts like a glue and dries has a normal primer @@KM-wv2og
I don't know why so many commenters here think they're being clever by advising to sand before priming. That is obvious advice. But the front of the packaging clearly says STICKS TO ALL SURFACES WITHOUT SANDING. It does not say with light sanding for glossy surfaces. The packaging is misleading if the solution to the problem shown in the video is sanding.
Saludos José estoy a punto de usarla pero la instrucciones dice que no hay qué lijarla, gracias por lo del alcohol no lo sabía soy nueva en esto. Bendiciones
I have never experienced Zinsser fail ever! You should always sand away the finish before applying any kind of primer to any surface. That would be the best advice to anyone doing any paint project. Don't cut corners.
NOPE , the best advice is to get a better primer like she did ..... and this one is even BETTER - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ncjXj8LmiYg.html
On any and all painting jobs surface preparation is a must. Looked like there was black cantamante on your 1st test piece. You should follow the surface preparation info. I saw no surface preparation whatsoever so you can expect the results you got. In addition to your second piece of wood you painted probably did not have the same contaminants the first piece did. Try Valspar and Zinsser side by side on the same piece of wood without sanding or prepping or washing and see what happens they both will flake. You must clean all contaminants from your project piece or your paint job will look like dog doo doo.
Honestly painter to painter,valspar bonding primer I use over kitchen cabinets that have polyurethane and as long as there's not oil from cooking/ grease you can go right over polyurethane without sanding. Apply 1st coat next day 2nd coat on third day it's the strongest hold I've ever seen other than some really good oil primers! Take a small piece of wood that's been polyurethaned, go over it with valspar bonding prime one coat first day, second next day and third day try to scrape it off with a 5 in one! On one half of the piece of wood only Apply 1 coat valspar bonding primer and on the other hand two coats 1 per day, on 3rd day try to scrape either side! Since it's trim use a 1/4 in nap and back brush it in. If you ever get around to trying this let me know, I'm telling you straight up I didn't believe it either! I also agree with your comment about surface prep about cleaning off your project if it has grease on it... so obviously not over grease.. but if there isn't any grease, no need to sand or wash when applying valspar bonding primer!
Hey, as a pro painter I've definitely noticed Bullseye 1-2-3 getting significantly worse in every way over the years gradually. I think it will eventually cure up harder, but it's very translucent now and doesn't develop bonding strength quickly at all. I remember when I first used it in 2014-2015 it would stick to unsanded polyurethane and not fingernail off in a day and had a lot better coverage. I find SW's Problock significantly better, but probably the best latex primers I've used have been Benjamin Moore Fresh Start and Aqualock primers. Definitely will give this newer Valspar primer a go sometime in the future, though. To be fair to 1-2-3 it's very cheap, and it's apparently been $20 a gallon since the 90s while prices on everything else have about doubled since then. :/
Benjamin Moore fresh start won't even come close to valspar bonding primer especially when painting over polyurethane, an without sanding! Fresh start slides off and can peel off with finger nails! Try valspar bonding primer, without sanding over polyurethane. Apply 1 coat leaving it over night and then try to scrape it off with a 5 in one! Myself never believed it would be as good as someone told me! On some applications I've done 2 coats of the valspar bonding primer 1st coat then second the next day, Applying my 2 finish coats latex over kitchen cabinets finish coats were with Benjamin Moore advanced which is oil an latex and it came out unbelievable, didnt mar,, peel and couldn't be scraped off! Honestly valspar bonding primer is the closest thing you'll get to an oil primer like bins oil shellac primer, or xim uma latex! As a professional painter to another! Try taking a small piece of wood that's been polyurethaned, without sanding do one coat of valspar bonding primer leave overnight next day add 2 coat of valspar bonding primer. ..on the 3rd day see how bonded it is! On half of the piece of wood only do 1 coat of the valspar bonding primer and on the second half do the 2 coats 1 per day next day 2 coat , apply thin even coats! 3 rd day try to scrape, scratch or mar the two sides! I guarantee you'll love valspar bonding primer! Try it with the fresh start on polyurethane, and you'll see the valspar blows it out of the water , no comparison! I never believed it either until my 3rd job almost in a row of re painting interiors that whole homes were polyurethaned changed to be white trim / I used to use oil primer, but I was tired of going home with a huge headache and feeling nauseous! Honestly I'd put a few of the bonding primers above fresh start, also kilz low odor oil primer. Obviously there's no latex primer that will hold up like an oil primer, but as far as latex primers valspar bonding primer is the closest.
I remember 15 yrs ago zinsser cover stain, which is an excellent primer, it's oil an stinks really bad, much better used outside. At any rate same situation I used to buy it from Home Depot for $18 dollars a gallon then it went up to $30 now it's $56 per gallon, but if you go on line you can get a 5 gallon bucket $151, everything gone up except paint prices, it seems lol, online they also have the 5 gallon bucket that's low voc zinsser cover stain but that's $289 dollars which comes out to the 57 dollars a gallon, but I'm speaking on just the normal zinnias cover stain!
@@scottmcauley5781 Hey, I've been using it recently and you're 100% right. Best latex primer on the market. It blocks stains OK too, I managed to use it over yellowed drywall paper with some water stains and it blocked that perfectly. Even the way it handles is great, thick, but very smooth and levels well. I would actually say better than 046 Fresh Start, too. Hope it stays the price it is, it's an amazing value.
@@GilBatesLovesyou As a painter for 20 years I'm still learning new stuff, you may or may not know this one. You know when you doing an accent wall or sometimes on a second or third floor where the ceilings, i call an attic room where ceilings slope, an you have to make those super straight crisp lines where ceilings come slanted down and meet wall? Take painters tape make you straight lines then apply clear caucking on the edge that you'll paint, obviously using you'll finger to wipe down excess making it flat or use a damp rag, then paint over it 5 minutes later. Pull your tape when paints still wet! I'm telling you you'll never see a sharper,crisper line! Obviously you can do this anywhere it matters! But it builds a nice perfect line and the paint to tape doesn't bridge,causing little imperfections down the line! If you're already aware of this cool, but if not try it out and let me know after that those aren't the best lines you've ever seen! Or when there's a water stain, to save painting the whole ceiling especially if they are good! Use a spray bottle with just bleach in it, poof stains gone. Sometimes you've gotta hit it twice and doesn't work on soot ! If you know of any tricks to make painting easier, please send a couple. Thanks
Zinsser Bullseye 123 is my go to paint. I have even gotten it tinted and left it on a wall as the finish paint. Recently painted over a sink base that was a stained wood and had no problem. With 2 coats it stuck and looked fantastic. I have no idea what material she is using this on.
Hi Steven thanks for stopping by! I have heard about the sanding trick but it would take so much extra time to do on each of the cabinets, I thought I would give it a go without. 😅 The good thing is the Valspar primer did the job without sanding! And once sealed with polycyclic the paint doesn’t budge.
@@letsdosomethingwitheliza152 I mean, if you were taking the time to refinish the cabinets, you obviously want to do it right. All the time you spent trying to correct your mistake of not sanding the surface was probably longer than it would’ve been actually sanding it
Several reasons that possibly went wrong including using the wrong cleaning solution if any! Acrylic paints hate body fat, wax polish and many other contaminants, your cleaning has to be way more thorough than when using solvent paints, in fact if you’d use the Zinsser solvent based stain blockers you’d have probably got a far better bond. This is likely to be user error and as a general builder whose been using the Zinsser products for over a decade I can safely say they are the best primers in the market.
I agree. If you look at the 1:00 mark, you can see how filthy the base was...right where it was peeling. We don't know how the surface was prepared. If you look at about 1:25, you can see the rag she is using to "clean" the surface. It was quite dirty and appears to just be used as a duster. To your point, dusting it is probably not going to be good enough. Also, the application is a bit quick and heavy vs working the product in as a nice thin first coat.
Should have used Zinsser BIN, an oil based grippy primer. 123 is really great on walls as a prep primer, but for furniture, cabinets or anything I was unsure of, I'd coat it in BIN
@@MrDavez it needed sanding any shiny surface needs sanding primer is something you use on a bare surface oil based undercoat would have worked with a light sand.
You need to look at paint products technical data sheets(TDS). Not because you “need to” But because you will see that almost every paint can’s bold text is contradicted in the long form instructions. “2-4 hour dry time” becomes, “4 hour dry time.” “No prep necessary” becomes, “sand, vacuum, blow dust, dust with a cloth moistened with the tears of a Gypsy.”
I’m a big fan of Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 and has performed well for me for over 20 years. There are a few other high quality primers out there, but I prefer Zinsser. Too bad you had that experience.
Utilizo el primer de Zinsser 1 2 3 y nunca tuve ese problema. Por el brillo que se observa antes de aplicarlo, tiene algún tipo de producto sellador de poros y es por eso que no cumple su función de pintura base con mayor adherencia. En el MDF sin tratamiento y con Zinsser como primer funciona muy bien.
I know this video is old, but it was the first one to come up when I searched "Zinsser Bulls Eye 123." The box looks like particle board covered with something like "melamine," which is a "non-stick" surface. I use melamine board in making mold frames for just that reason.
Unfortunately you get what you pay for. If you're going over a shiny surface you don't want to sand or do any prep work to, don't use water base! I understand the VOCs are rough with oil, but you end up with a MUCH better outcome.. (In the words of AVE "Buy once, cry once"..)
Well I’m about to follow the instructions on the can “without sanding or deglossing” on my trim, doors, and tile fireplace. I will let y’all know how it goes. Using a sprayer which applies a much thicker layer then shown in this video.
I tried it this weekend zero sanding. I had no peeling with various surfaces oil based trim, glossy doors, tiled fireplace and mantle. The different surfaces took different times to dry which was fine for me but it does say 1 hr dry time when it definitely took more for some. I also had dripping issues next time I will have to apply on a lower setting on the sprayer. Seems like sanding works to smooth it out without peeling. This poster may have used something to clean the surface that didn’t mix well with the primer. I used Clorox wipes on my tiled fireplace and it still adhered though.
I originally posted something saying you need to scuff it up. But I just used the 123 on a wall and it peeled away at the edges. No idea what they did to 123 but it just sucks now. Switched to Benjamin Moore Fresh Start 046 and it's worked pretty well.
It’s not the paint but the painter. I had to learn many mistakes like this one that you are dealing with. The only reason I know your at fault is because I already made all these mistakes and only look with in and not try to blame the product did I actually learn how to apply paint correctly. 1. mix
1. mix the paint and when your done mix it again with a drill and a paint mixer. You don’t even know how many problems I’ve ran into because of paint that was halfassed mixed. 2 make sure your surface is ready for paint. As in clean any waxy or oily substance on the piece. 3 I know it said sanding isn’t necessary and if you would have cleaned it correctly I believe you could have gotten away without sanding but sand anyways. Paint grabs on to the surface think of it as if you saw it through a microscope. Nothing would grab on to a slick surface why? Because there isn’t anything to grab. Sanding creates that rugged surface allowes it self to be grabbed. And yes I fucked up the txt sorry it got split. Anyways have a great day and remember it’s about how you get up that really counts not the fall. We all fall. :)
Always used zinsser 123 bullseye and never had that problem,i used it on walls with paste still on after i peeled off wallpaper and wow what a finish,i've used it on kitchen cabinets and rusty radiators i wouldn't buy anything else,may be its different in the UK.
I researched at found the Zinsser is highly recommended. I bought it for glass. I did not sand the glass as it says "no sanding required". Paint did not stick well. Peels easily. I washed glass with alcohol beforehand as well. I'm going to give it one more try as I barely mixed/stirred it the first time...maybe that was the problem.
YOU HAVE TO KNOW YOUR BASE PAINT! If you dont know what's on the base coat, you cant pick the appropriate primer. Paint is not smart, but you have to be. Drip water on the base coat, if it beads up, its probably oil based. You have to then use a primer that is a bonder sealer ADHESIVE. There's more to it but you get the gist i hope. If that's polyurethane, you have to use a urethane modified acrylic, or something that will bind to urethane allowing the final coats to adhere to the primer.
You have to let primer set for 2-3 days I have never had any issues I’m a professional painter I use that stuff for painting cabinets never had call backs
123 is the main go to for me. Kitchen cabinetry? Uh, no. Go with an oil based primer. Dark stained/poly window trim? Use oil based. Walls ceilings, exteriors including wood trim and aluminum siding? 123 is the go to for me for over 25 years now. Going over a ploy, use oil based and don't forget, denatured alcohol and a scrubby to BOND to it. ;) had you used denatured and a scrubby, the 123 would have been just fine. (do yourself a favor and don't purchase Behr paint, it pulls off primed surfaces in sheets)
Dont know preparation she did befroe applying this, but i totally disagree her negative claim about Zinsser 123. I'm an experienced decorator and have used this product successfully for many years. The colour of the tin looks suspect to me as its not the darker blue of the normal tin. Wonder is its a knock off product.
You cant paint that type of surface without surface preparation. No product, not even epoxy would hold onto it long term without completely encapsulating it. You need surface adhesion, so you would need to scratch the surface first. Try priming something like HDPE and see how that goes, some surfaces are not meant to have anything stick to them period, which means its a good human interface as surfaces go.
Thanks for watching Forestbird Originals! I will say the Valspar one stuck pretty good and once the paint was sealed with polycrylic it didn’t budge! But I do see what you mean about wear and tear over time! I guess I’ll have to wait and see
Was going to post the same comment. This stuff works great but some things you’ve just gotta learn from experience. Nothing would stick to that surface reliably without some prep. Would someone expect it to still to glass? No
@@jackhernandez9828 Show me evidence? Im sure it will bond. I bet it will still let go over time. Even the commerical products for recoating laminate countertops seem to fail with normal use.
You can't do an honest review on a product if you're not using it correctly. The clear coat finish you neglected to sand, and prep first is what's causing the problem. You have to give the primer a surface to bite into if you expect it to stick. It's not the fault of the primer if you're not properly preparing the surface for coverage. no paint, nor primer is going to stick to it. It'd be like painting glass with house paint. That finish is causing a barrier between the primer, and the surface which, in turn, is not allowing the primer to reach the intended surface. You have to at least scuff sand the surface so the primer grabs onto it, and sticks. I've used Zinsser B-I-N on an Ikea Linmon desktop without removing the wrap, and it has yet to even scratch after several months of use.
Dude that’s the primer like everyone recommends on all these RU-vid tutorials!!!!! That’s crazy! But I didn’t buy it since you told me otherwise!! But also your cabinets came out really nice! Love the color!
You didn’t sand or clean the area after sanding / before painting, a lot of paints claim you don’t have to sand or clean before application but that’s absolutely not true. I’ve used this stuff on multi million dollar home repairs, it’s a great product, only if you use it correctly that is. I actually sprayed this on the roof of a fifth wheel trailer I renovated for a friend when I was 17, after maybe two seasons of use he parked it at his farm in northern Alberta unheated unplugged in, basically left to succumb to the elements, I’m 25 now and this year I went to his farm and looked inside that camper, almost LITERALLY EVERYWHERE else besides the roof and back dinette area that I renovated ( with this exact product ) had mold on the walls. 😂 next time just try giving a light sand with say 120 grit and wipe it down with iso propyl alcohol on a towel and I bet that stuff will stick so good not even Kim K could get it off.
I have tried it a few times, for me it goes on too thick and doesn't level and I think it's the humidity in my area. Going to bring the furniture piece from the conditioned garage into the house to see if it works better. I don't know, everyone else loves it.
Same here. I live almost on the Gulf of Mexico so the humidity is unreal and it’s so hard to find things that work right here. I try all the things people use in these videos but the results are never the same for me. It took me a long while to figure out it is likely the high temps and humidity.
I got the same results. I wish I had tried a demo piece before painting my bathroom cabinets. The paint is just peeling off like play dough. I am so disappointed. I called Rustoleum and was told it really takes seven days for the paint to adhere. Well its been about 10 days and my finger nails can still scratch it off with very little effort. Did I say how disappointed I am?
How long has the furniture been in the bathroom before you painted it? What did you use and how thoroughly did you scrub the substrate? These are all important parts of preparation, it claims that it bonds without sanding but not without the core cleaning methods.
It’s always worked for me did a barbers old warm shutters worked brilliant untill I decided to paint some previously painted wooden chairs. Put two coats on and it’s peeling havnt got a clue how it has worked on so many jobs in the past and it messes up now. I sorted it out with BIN however which seems to be stronger but still chips now and again.
As indicated by others, your prep work in the drawer was totally inadequate. You also used a completely different type of primer when you switched to Valspar
No prep work. No sanding and cleaning. No nothing. What do you expect? Regardless of what the label states, you should do due diligence in performing necessary prep work regardless if it’s a test piece or an entire house.
Zinsser can be thinned with alcohol and sprayed on models through and air brush. It works well and puts a beautiful thin coat on my model trains, not hiding details. On my latest loco, there were some areas where it did not stick well. I cleaned the stripped brass with detergent and a bristle brush. In general it has worked very well for my models.
Something has changed with bullseye 1-2-3. I used to use it on everything (sanding first of course) however I recently had that same experience. I just use bin shellac now which sticks to everything.
Definitely 123 does not work on smooth surfaces and DOES NOT block stains!!! Apply this (or any other water-based Primer) to any wood and it will turn yellow. The only Primers that really work for this are oil-based, like KILZ, Cover Stain and INSL-X Prime Block.
You put a second coat of 123 far too soon it needs time to cure several days even , secondly always sand first despite what any product says , don't use 123 and second coat when you feel it's dry it will peel off .
if whatever you are trying to prime got a laquer finish on it, no primer will stick to it, you are supposed to lightly sand it down before priming, i don't care what the label says on the primer...
I don't believe that you prepared the surface properly. Who knows what the previous finish on that interior drawer was - It could've even been a polyurethane to keep the material underneath protected. Such a finish would repel anything, even primer. The very slick shiny sheen to the part of the dried primer that peeled off seems to indicate this. I think of Zinsser for walls and structures rather than furniture with glossy hard finishes. I would've sanded the glossy existing finish before putting down primer.
If you compare products at least paint both products on the same piece. Im definitely going to try it. Im not sure but i think you need to use the zisner BIN primer on that type of wood surface. Thanks for sharing
This stuff does NOT work over oil based paint in spite of what the can says. I sanded thoroughly with 220 and wiped with toluene. It comes right off. I have major work now to remove it from multiple doors and door frames to start over. I was a fan of this product because it works on bare PVC. Save yourself some time. Sand and use oil based primer if moving to latex paint. Unfortunately, this isn't a viable solution for going over oil.
Also like this video you say, hmmm. You always need to prep your surface that is what every professional or even non-professional knows. Look at what that Lowe's product did you barely scratched it with your nail and it was coming off If you would have got a big enough piece it would come off as well. You have got to sand if not a lot lightly then clean off all your dust using a damp rag or tack cloth and then go to primer. If you were painting on glass which is a surface don't you think you would come off of that as well. Geez!
I agree , im not happy with it at all. I've always used this for inside, priming walls or furniture thst needed to be painted and thought it was a great product until recently. I used it to paint a picnic table outside, put three coats on and then two coats of enamel, a few days later debri fell from the tree and not only did it soak through the enamel but down into the stain blocker paint as well. So dissapointed and mad! Had to repaint the whole thing and buy plexy glass for the top of the table I would say though, I have repainted my cabinets and used the grey primer from bullseye and it worked fine. I would recommend painting the inside like you did because it is so sleek but just lining it with contact paper.
Ummm? You did something wrong? Because , I hate to tell you this, (maybe others have already enlightened you) but it's actually one of IF not the best all in one primers EVER manufactured. I've used it for 10 projects and I've never used a primer even close to this product. If it makes you feel better, I like valspar as well, but not even close to the 123 primer. Just look on line and the proof is in the pudding.
@@mycatiswaysmarterthanmosto8500 Apparently when texas froze over during the last winter, all the raw materials that produce much of the primers made in America, froze with it😆 Than, we all know about the supply chain issues that we had, caused a major back order for products. According to my Sherwin Williams rep. As a painter, I have had a hell of a time doing my job because of it.
Her Surfaces were definitely clean....she was using some sealed epoxy wood that look like it already had a factory lacquer finish all she needs to do is sand it lightly before priming and painting.... just a simple rookie mistake..... it's always great to watch the RU-vid videos on the product first.... They tell you a lot
You didn’t sand the surface to give it a key ! I understand that is what it said on the can . Always , always prep first. Wash your surface , then sand
it was not ready, I used it in kitchen cabinets, 2 or 3 coats with a sprayer, or using paint rolls, don't like the weak marks the brushes let in the wood
I'm researching primers. This cutsie is not the video to watch for factual info. Look at videos with pro painters that know what they are doing gained by actual experience.
I'm a painter, and I never used the kind of primer on cabinets or the kind of project you doing, as a painter never done nothing with out proper preparation,
#1 You never prepared the surface. #2 READ THE BACK of Zinsser Bulls Eye 123. "No one does." Clearly states: Full adhesion and hardness in 7 days!! Honest review video!! Hardly. Works great for me w/2 coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye and anyone else who properly uses it by the directions on the can!
I understand it may say don’t need to sand but you have to sand cabinets before primer ever time. Also you could of used a better primer for cabinets. The primer you’re using isn’t bad at all you just don’t know what you’re doing!
Shellac base is best , but yeah that shouldn’t have happened. Perhaps moisture. 🤷🏼♀️ i use my zinsser shellac base on all my Ikea furniture and it works perfectly, no peeling or day to day wear after top coats. 🤔
Completely agree, on this type of substrate either of the solvent based Zinsser primers would out perform the acrylic, shellac being the best for furniture priming. I think Zinsser should re-visit their claims and put bold text stating how the correct cleaning before painting is essential.
I hate this primer! I had the same problem on ceramic tile when I tried to pain the tile on my fireplace. I don't understand all the reviews and blog recommendations.
I used Zinsser 123 primer for a project recently and it worked great using a spray gun. No peeling what-so-ever. I painted over both raw wood and existing cabinet doors that were golden oak with a light varnish on it. The raw wood furniture that I made had zero issues but when it came down to primer the cabinet, I ignored the instructions where it said it was not necessary to sand or degloss the finish. I used 80 grit sandpaper and deglossed the cabinet doors and then sprayed. Zero issues. There was definitely some user error in this video and the material looked like mdf board that was ultra smooth. Good luck in the future.
Look Karen.. that was not the right primer for that material.. if it was wood it would of worked.. also, always test a small patch to see how effective it is on that surface..
