Welcome to this HVAC channel! I tend to post a lot of tips and tricks. I like thinking outside the box, and enjoy experimenting with different ways of doing things. I also enjoy reading and replying to comments and questions. I do my best to respond to all comments.
Thank you my friend! Here is the link. www.graphtecamerica.com/data-logger/gl240 I do make a lot of the odd ball sensors and stuff, but generally prefer to buy them since most of the modern probes are designed to limit noise which can be tricky to do DIY.
The solvents in contact cleaner can be rough on certain types of plastics. After experimenting with a lot of different products I’ve settled on WD40 as my overall favorite. However, I don’t want to imply that there are no other valid options such as the one you mentioned 👍
Yes you’re exactly right. I had it wrapped but it still got too hot due to a brazing issue on one of the joints (ie took longer than normal). On my own system I’m not as concerned lol. Anyway yes I do purge/flow before brazing. Here’s a really interesting video that will show some very out of the box techniques and results related to purging. Testing8: Very Unique Brazing Purge Method ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l0oLaYcOt-0.html
Awesome thank you for the link! I just installed my own system and am now regretting not putting a sight glass on it haha. I’m half-tempted to pump down and put one in 😂
Oh, I don't like reviewers like you. Which generally cannot unlock the potential and fully show all the functionality of the device. At the very end, when your sensor stopped detecting a leak, it happened because there was no pressure. There should be at least 150 psig or even 400 depending on the contours. At such values, the device will really show its functionality and show its work in action.
I feel like a self leveling laser does the same thing... but I'm wondering if you don't nescessarily want it perfectly level but instead, perfectly plum with the machine? Meaning of the machine and bottom pulley are sitting 1° out of level you want to transfer that directly to the top pulley... that's the only reason I can see now just whipping out the laser..or am I totally off base? I build pipe man IDK lol!
I know...well they rejected it and to be honest I'm tired of keeping my ideas to myself so I'm just putting them out there for the benefit of all so to speak, at least for now that seems like my path.
Haha nope! That repair is still holding. The site is under PM contract so we know if it fails. I also had to recover the refrigerant about a year later and so that also proved it had no leaks. Why would you assume it’s leaking?
Yes it does change the amount of torque applied in the clamping direction. You would probably have to ask the manufacturer to get an exact answer but I just use the standard settings. They may end up a bit tighter but to me that’s perfectly ok and I prefer it that way. However, whenever I use a torque wrench I also balance it with my own judgement and experience, this is especially true on the 1/4” lines, whether they are lubed or not.
Yeah that’s a pretty normal feeling and exactly how I felt when digging into it and trying to learn it all. Over time it starts to feel more familiar 😊👍
My favorite ones are the ones that have a ring or hook because they can be used for a lot of other things. Search "Olight Olink". Those are pretty good magnets.
Im an instructor at a local tech school and i can confirm that using water as the example is the one guaranteed way for people to be able to START to grasp sh and sc. There is still the issue of WHY do we care about it but it at least gets the idea to start forming for those who want it
I see you have the helper over at the job site. He’s being a good crew member 😂. I never seen this style branch box with solenoids, it must be some antique stuff. Is it pre gen 3? I think they stopped using solenoids because they could be so much noise generated when switching from cooling to heat. Good to see you back at it again with the little one. God bless.
Thanks for the explanation of the subcooler. I haven't found any literature that explains it's purpose. Always figured it was to bleed off some liquid back to compressor when the load changes. Those older gen looks much easier to work on with the swing out doors . The gen 5's are annoying you have to unbolt the controls cabinet and lay it down. Ran into a lot of compressor issues with LG tons of compressor failures all of them seem to be liquid slugging. These units can throw you for a loop we had one unit where 2-3 units were not cooling and opening the EEV's to 500-600 pulses in cooling. We manually drove the EEV open with a tool and it slightly improved thought we had bad EEVs. Turns out the unit had a leak and was low on charge hence the capacity loss. More recently we had an issue with a unit freezing up in several minutes and shutting off no codes. Suction would tank like there was a restriction in the system. We kept focusing on the outdoor unit which was indeed the problem. Despite being auto piped and addressed the unit was not sending refrigerant to the indoors. I messed up recently on a repair of one of these units and cut the piping to install a new assembly turns out some of the pipe inside is metric. The amount of weird glitches we have seen is wild so easy to get thrown off. My only issue is the training the manuals do not explain much at all. Learned the most from the equipment rep field techs most of the stuff they teach you is not in manuals. I understand they are translated so some of the wording is confusing. It helps if write everything down you learn about VRF we don't see them all the time and its way too hard to recall from memory. The one thing I like about LG is their program.
Absolutely can tell you work on VRF lol...those are my thoughts too! And yes LGMV is great. One of the greatest Daikin VRV techs of all time lives in my area and he said he would do a podcast with me, but is very busy at the moment :)
Thank you my friend! Be sure to check out our discord as well. It's free no bullshit ads or anything (that I know of at least) basically just a forum. Shoot me a DM if you join. How many RVs have you done. They really are a PITA.
I'm a big fan of finding tools made for one thing and using them for another. I'm wondering if a an automotive pick would work. Specifically an angle pick. I found 4 piece sets from WORKPRO and some company called ROTATION I might try out for this
Well, had a little time off, due to injury. I was working on a commercial RTU and realized I put my temp clamp on the hot gas line, so reached in and went to reposition it on the liquid line...and put my hand right into the condenser fan blade. Over 20 years working on this stuff, never done that before. I wouldn't recommend it. Tried to just wrap it up and go, but thought better of it the next morning (when I was in considerable pain and unable to move my fingers). Several stitches and shots later, and a few days, and the pain has stopped. Still can't move my index finger at all (didn't even try, by doctor's orders). Doc said I should have gone to the ER right away, instead of trying to 'man up'. Go back to doctor tomorrow for a followup. Feel like such a dummy. So, all you techs out there, don't get complacent. You only have to make one mistake. Don't be like me.
Jersey Discount Tool has a vessel screwdriver with interchangeable screwdriver shanks. They’re JIS and it’s all I use on mini splits or rinnai units. No more stripped screws. Almost all Japanese made units are using JIS and most techs don’t know it. Also some of the mini splits that have the hex screw with the “Phillips” in the center are 7mm. That can also be helpful once the “Phillips” is trashed
I have the comfort grip version of the Knipex , since you usually have to put on some clamping force on the screw , that does help a lot . They've paid for themselves by getting me out of a pinch a few times already. Just the other day a very stupidly placed service valve cap that wasn't reachable with any adjustable or pliers , since the jaws on these aren't angled they were the only tool that could get the job done !
The amount of bs on this stuff is amazing. Stainless on aluminum, terrible idea. Especially with the thermal expansion and contraction just adds to it. They expand and contract at different rates and amounts. Not to mention the chemical reaction factor. It's all a joke. Its so Joever
Good question! Not at all, when tin snips are used properly (ie the point never plunges into the material) there are no shavings only shearing. The cable cutter also shears, it doesn’t produce shavings either 👍
I feel like you could’ve run the flush system backwards and maybe pushed the clog that way? I’m not sure why everyone doesn’t run the flush thru the hot side and blow everything out the cold side. It’s basically what you do to everything else in this world thats clogged.
I will if I get a chance but just to give you some idea. The gauges are liquid filled Yellow Jackets (the only ones they make for 410a). The temp meter is a fluke dual temp. And the clamps are fieldpiece. Also the gauges are fitted with stubby guage fittings. If you google those terms everything should come right up 👍
