Few things frustrate me more than not being able to save all the vehicles I see wallowing away in back yards! I hope to at least give a few of them a second chance at life.
After we went the two-person old school way to bleed, and after 15-20 repetitions, the pedal started coming back. When the pedal felt normal again, we went off and on again with a key/button cycle, started the car and the light went out after it’s normal system check. Been fine ever since.
It is, but I didn’t have it at the time. I wanted to see if it could be done without one. Found out you can if you go the right direction and use the 2nd person pumping the pedal for you.
So there seems to be a new move by many manufacturers to turn traditional bleeding on it's head and only allow bi-directional scanners the ability to bleed. However they (OEMs) design the system is how we, the diy community, should do it as well. Now that some scanners are under $100 for the bi-directional control, there isn't a real excuse to do as recommended. For example, my new-to-me Ram 3500 scanner controlled process never has me open the LF or LR caliper at all.
I'm late to the party, but quickly got caught-up. Engine bay turned out amazing. On the cylinder inspection shots we got a glimpse of a very nice factory-like finish on the value covers. How did you achieve that, Dereck? Keep going! It's a worthy project.
Abrasive action like scrubbing ruins those K/N filters, it tears up the fibers and makes the already big holes even bigger. I'd just go back to a Fleet Guard filter, because that K/N filter will dust your motor for sure.
You are correct for sure, I basically wanted to see if I could make it clean again. I flew helo's in the middle east for years with K&N filters installed and this one was worse than anything I saw over there with sand being imbedded in the pleats. I don't plan on putting miles on it anytime soon, but when it goes into a bit more of a service position it'll be refreshed for sure.
Endless buckets of love are definitely required, more patients than raising four kids, and as far as actual hard currency, including the price of the car I have about $4000 invested. I’ll do a breakdown on my next video covering the cost up at this point. Thanks for watching and I hope it helps inspire.
Very grateful to you for making this video. I’ve a 560 that’s been sitting past 14 years. And with close to 0 clue what I’m doing and an imaginary budget 😮💨, she’s puppy-dogged me into finally getting her back on the road. Your videos are truly helping me build the courage 🙏🏽
Soon I’ll have the intake manifold apart, cleaned and new rubber boots and hoses installed. Also doing the oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals. Hoping to get this done today and get the video out tomorrow sometime.
Great job. Thanks for posting your work on this car. The engine bay came out fantastic. Great idea, having the local paint shop mix up the paint and put it in spray cans. This not your first rodeo. Thanks for sharing.
I do like the fact that you hovered over the vacume lines&wireing-all the factory wireing.on my car I failed to repair the fuel injection system,so I made an adapter put a carb on it.also updated it to a home made hei distributor.and yes I kept all the original parts for the next owner,after they pry it from my cold dead hands😅
Bro I had that same problem in one of my vehicles. I think it was in one of my pickup trucks with. With the cigar lighter in it. Ashtray, that folds down. Put all your pocket chain in there. Yup, I made that mistake and I'll never do that again. Never put pocket change in an asterisk or around. It ashtray with an electric cigarette
Glad you liked it, I will be disassembling some of the motor soon to refresh all of the intake seals and hoses, a ton of other projects keep me sidetracked though. I should have a friends Ford five- hundred’s control arm and throttle body finished soon.
Nothing you did to that Starter would have fixed the slow / weak cranking ONLY after 4 seconds. Most likely just had a Poor Connection with High Resistance at the Battery Cable Positive Terminal to the Starter Solonoid. Once Again, understanding Electrical Systems are always a Plus before blindly diving into ANY type of Electrical Repair. Better keep on sticking to just repairing your own equipment, at least there shouldn't be any lawsuits that way ... 😏
Ohhh, your THAT guy I see. I thought you were simply misunderstanding what I meant when talking about the fuse layout on my TC in one of my other video's, but your just trying to stir things up, gotcha. Since your seemingly challenging everything I put up, I'm doing a "Round Earth" video soon. My guy, I have the time to address all of your legitimate concerns and call me on anything that doesn't pass the smell test, but when you hit all of my videos (I don't have that many) in one hour with extreme unbalanced skepticism and question my integrity in all of them, have a nice day. As for this vid, clearly you have never worked on old starters or alternators. 😘
Once again, remind me why you even have troubled yourself and even wasted ANY minutes of your Life OR the Lives of your viewers by performing this totally unecessary Charcoal Filter task (whatever it actually is) and including all of that savage brutality into the making of this video ? You are aware that this Type of Charcoal Filters are self cleaning, right ? And it's pretty obvious that it's NOT Plugged, nor is it missing any charcoal material ! You really need to learn to understand how these Systems work before you continue this type of brutal neandertal savage butchery with Carpentars Tools. You don't need to include your waiver at the beginning of all of your videos, because it is painfully obvious that you could have never been a professional Mechanic (for very long). These Poor Parts on these Poor Cars do not deserve this type of brutal assault ! What did these Parts or these Cars ever do to you for them to deserve this type of Neandertal handling ? 😏
Remind me again WHY you even flushed the Brake Fluid at all ? Oh, simply because the Maintenance schedule told you that it needed to be Done ? Well, I can tell you one thing - that Fluid most likely has been Flushed once before you actually got to it, because that slight yellow discoloration you pointed out wasn't from 100,000 miles of driving or up to 3 years time. At 3 years old @ 100,000 miles, the fluid would have a slight green tint if anything. Comes from the corrosion from the miniscule percentage of Copper used in the Brake Lines and other Hrdraulic components. Some brake fluid brands look that same shade of yelllow right out of the bottle. So, what I'm telling you is that you wasted over 2.5 hours of your life performing this task that was not even really needed, and I have wasted at least 8.5 minutes of mine by watching this video and commenting on it ... 😏
Ohhh, your THAT guy I see. I thought you were simply misunderstanding what I meant when talking about the fuse layout on my TC in one of my other video's, but your just trying to stir things up, gotcha. Since your seemingly challenging everything I put up, I'm doing a "Round Earth" video soon. My guy, I have the time to address all of your legitimate concerns and call me on anything that doesn't pass the smell test, but when you hit all of my videos (I don't have that many) in one hour with extreme unbalanced skepticism and question my integrity in all of them, have a nice day.
@@4inTune58D Hey, if I see one of your videos is a bit wonky, I want to see how much other stuff you posted is of the same quality (or lack of). Congrats on the underhood restoration video though, you seem to have quite surprisingly at least found something that you can actually do fairly well. 😏
@@4inTune58D BTW - I didn't even come close to viewing ALL of your videos, I wouldn't even waste my time. Only watched & commented on a few of the shortest ones. 😏
@@johnbishop7912 To at least answer your previous question as to why I changed the fluid, it was because of the maintenance schedule and it was not changed prior so I know your logic is flawed. Thanks for keeping me on my toes though.
@@4inTune58D So, you or your Daughter have owned this vehicle since it was brand new ? There was no logic involved, merely simple scientific fact. Yellow Fluid does not mean bad fluid.
This makes absolutely no sense at all ! First you said the 30 amp fuse (#5) under the hood was blowing, and that you had to rewire that because it melted the Underhood Fuse Block, but then you said that fuse number 6 was the Power for the Lighter that was allegedly shorted with the 10 penny piece. If this was the case, the 20 Amp Fuse # 6 inside the Car definitely should have been the Fuse that was blowing first, as it allegedly got its power from the 30 Amp Fuse (#5) under the Hood. So, IF this really DID happen this way, the ONLY way would have been for BOTH the 20 Amp Fuse # 6 that was in the Fusebox inside the Car AND the 30 Amp Fuse # 5 that was in the Underhood block to be defective ! The 30 Amp Fuse would have had to have been slightly underated (like, closer to 25 Amps), and the 20 Amp Fuse inside the car was slightly overated (like, closer to 30 Amps) for the 30 Amp Fuse # 5 in the Underhood Fuse Block to blow first ! I'm calling this as I see it, but it seems mighty suspicious, possibly even made up, as why wouldnt you show the part where you allegedly removed the Dime ? Also, I didn't even see ANY arcing at all in the Cigarette Lighter socket, which is definitely a Red Flag. As many 30 Amp Fuses that this Car has Blown, there really should have been some obvious arc welding types of witness marks where the dime was making contact. This all makes me want to call this whole video as Bull Sheets to the wind ! 🤨
I assure you this is not a fluff film, I should have made clear the 30amp fuse in the small fuse block on the r/s of the engine was an issue I had 2 years ago and had been resolved. I only mentioned it because it's a stand-alone fuse block working the Teves ABS system that can cause issues. That's on me. The cigar lighter is on a 20amp (fuse #6 also shared by the brake lights) which gets it's power from the #5 fuse. Also, to be clear, fuse #5 is NOT the 30amp fuse in the engine bay, it's adjacent to fuse #6 in the fuse block under the steering wheel. Just because you don't see the arcing doesn't mean it's not loading the circuit. I expected to see some as well and didn't notice any either, however, applying the brakes was enough additional load to blow the fuse. I didn't video removing it because I wasn't thinking I needed to show how to remove a coin from a socket, seems simple enough. I'm not putting these vids out for money or just to have content, just to show some common mistakes people make (me for one) and for familiarization if you happen to have one of these things yourself.
Just so you are fully aware, loss of ground will NEVER cause a Fuse to Blow. Impossible - this will cause current draw to be less, NOT more ... Science says so ! 😏
Yup, I fell in to the same exact trap working on our 2017 Outback and went through the same fix as you. I'll be getting a pressure bleeder and work counterclockwise from the get go next time! I'm glad you put this up for the rest of the Subie community.
I just watched your video. Your engine is most likely the original engine. Late 75 engines were produced with climate control (that you have ) and CIS injection. K jetronic stopped sometime in mid to late 75.
I just looked at my build sheet which matches the serno on my door jamb and it says I’m supposed to have a 117.982 motor. The .985 motor I have has a vacuum hose coming off the back of the drivers side head and goes into the firewall in a haphazard kinda way, not like it was planned. The confusion for me is the fact I found another build sheet under the center console which really matches nothing. I don’t know if the door plate came from somewhere else or if the interior did, a big ole puzzle to me, but no accident damage anywhere obvious other than a crappy paint job in the way-back.
Check your build date of the car. The M117.985 did not start to be built for the us market till 09-01-1975 for Calif.and 11-21-1975 for the rest of USA. There are major differences between the 2 engine. D-jetronic vs. K jetronic (that you have), Another change was the distributor ( d-jetronic has the injection pickup at the bottom of distributor and if I am not mistaken you have climate control that was in the later models. Base engine is the same but changing all the stuff that goes with them is alot of work. Also usually anything pruduced after the 11th month is usually next model year. In your case it may be a 76 model year.@@4inTune58D
Good info to know! I also have a 2021 sport and will need to perform brake flush soon too. A side note, always torque wheels down using the star pattern for an even torque.
Hey brother great work .... for the engine bay you shoukd use a d.a. sander to say the paint off then use grinder or full Sander as needed to clean up the bad spots .....
@4inTune58D there is a foam bad that goes between you da pad and the paper called an interface pad ... its specifically for sanding curved surfaces. ... can get them in a couple different sizes .... but in the end the result is awesome and great work ... engine bays are the most time consuming area ... as well as wheel wells and trunks ... ( autobody tech. 25 years )
