DLE55 RA. Way more than enough power for what I want and need and enough space in the cowling for the electric onboard remote starter. No more dead stick landings for me. It’s already saved me twice which otherwise would have been crash landings as the motor cut out on the downwind run.

Thanks bro

Thanks so much

As she is there in that video mate about $1800 incl the actual fj40 rc4wd kit. As she is today because she looks totally different and i purchased about another $2500 worth of parts about $4300 Check out my later vids on the fj40 and you”ll see how and why it cost me so much

Yes most of us fly mode 1 here, throttle and aileron on the right rudder and elevator on the left.

Thanks for that yes, We live about 3500 ft above sea level which did effect my motor’s performance on the static test as you may have heard. The response was slow snd the rom maxed out heaps lower than normal at sea level. Normally the rpm maxes out at close to 6750rpm ok my telemetry on this particular Prop, i corrected that by way of needle valve adjustments prior to actually flying it at my field close to my house. In regards to the (“elevators”) functioning as ailerons (similar to a fighter jets like f16’a that use their elevators as ailerons (Elevons), “I intended that” and I achieved it by setting up active “switchable” mixes. That’s why you can see I can cycle them with the mix active and also without the mix active. Meaning i can switch them on and off mid flight as I wish. They do work very nicely in the air & I only use the elevon function When I am doing “Unrealistic XCUB” moves for fun, like aerobatics. Mostly I just fly as XCUBs are intended to fly, just circuits and slow flying. When used with full ailerons they add so much more roll rate. I also mixed in some “Crow” function for high altitude full speed “nose diving” and I also mixed in a ground speed brake mix for when I land a bit too fast so the ailerons go all the way down while the elevators go all the way up to spoil the airflow and slow it down. She weighs 15kg on the dot with 750 ml’s of fuel and 5 3S Lipo packs, x2 for the receiver which one is for redundancy, x1 for the onboard EME elec starter, one is for Led lights and one is for the Spark Plug. The on board starter is awesome because i can turn the motor back on if it cuts out in mid air as long as it is not out of fuel. In short I have been flying for over 23 years now both big planes like this and big Jet EDF’s to 800 size 3D Helicopters. I love this hobby and I absolutely Love this plane. She performs so docile and true if setup correctly, she is very slippery with this type of undercarriage and is somewhat faster than my Older supercub 1/4 scale. This is a 1/3.5 scale so it’s a far but bigger than the SuperCub. The only negative I can say is that they need to supply it with a beefier undercarriage system. I personally am Looking around for a “same size option” (Carbon Fiber) undercarriage. The one from Hangar 9 is just way too soft & any mild to heavy touch down always bends it almost striking my prop on the grass. I don’t want to get the bungee type UC because it will defeat the purpose of buying an XCUB which in reality was made to be significantly faster than the super cub of Carbon cub. Greetings from Australia. You guys have so many lovely & very expensive “Jet Turbine Models there in your country, and also in Switzerland and Germany. “Unbelievable” some of the model planes that come from your region of the world. Thanks for watching & warmest regards.

Hello yes it does have a feature that is similar to cruise control.

Hello Rob yes I already know about the absima Sherpa. I tried buying one 3 times but no stock available and they are only available In Europe for some reason. I am in Australia and I have called almost all the hobby stores australia wide and they cannot get any stock at all. I have also moved on from Traxxas and I have purchased 2 RC4WD Gelande 2 crawlers from America. 1 BJ40 Landcruiser and 1 D90 Lamdrover

Hello i used “Xtra Speed Cantilever shocks” for the rear.

Thanks for watching and supporting my video. The prop I am using is a full carbon fibre “mejzlic 22x10x3” prop. Works beautiful. Heaps quieter than the 2 blade and it Max’s out at 6300rpm at my local field which is 2820 feet above sea level. At Thant she pulls about 10kg-13kg of dynamic thrust depending on density altitude. We fly mostly before 11am and at that I am able to optimise and maximise my engine performance. I love the prop and I love the dle55ra. It really is a match made in rc plane heaven for me especially where and how I fly.

Thank you so much for your support. It’s very Much appreciated. 🤝🤜👍

Hello, here is the ebay link for the lights www.ebay.com.au/itm/173912454781 They work well and the best thing for me is they’re cheap, very easy to install and very easy to re charge.

@@mikesrcreviewchannel3685 thanks

@@mikesrcreviewchannel3685 I went to the page you indicated and it’s all stick on lights, a picture of the finished airplanes shows the landing lights on and strobes flashing, I’m looked at some of the build videos and there is wiring for some sort of controller inside?

@@irwinwka no I decided to go with the stick on lights because I just found them easier to work with. If you want full on wired lights the best ones available in the world are made& sold by a company called Uni light led. They are based in Europe and have basically every LED light for any model size, as far as I could research they were priced fairly well for that they are and are very much a professional solution for any LED need for any model aircraft size.

@@mikesrcreviewchannel3685 it just happens I had ordered a couple of sets of the stick on lights just to try them out a week ago. Thought they might be an easy system for my Hagar 9 Beaver. Thanks. Had been thinking about unilight for another airplane. Where is your field in Australia? I was in eastern Australia a few years ago and had poor luck finding any hobby shops or info on flying there

All the best mate

Hello there. In answer to your question “No” I didn’t need to modify or do anything to make the pro-line shooters fit. They’re actually a perfect fit for the TRX4 in terms of the offset they come with out of the box. They’re a little on the light side as they are “as the tittle suggests” (Composite) meaning the outside face is made from alloy and the runner ring and everything else is plastic. “Very strong and flexible plastic at that” All I did to counter that was to put Lead weights I purchased from my local tire centre who sold me the lead weights you can stick on for wheel balancing. They work the best as they can form a circle to mount and stick onto the inner ring. All up they are very nice wheels but because of the name brand (Pro-Line) they are fairly expensive.

@@mikesrcreviewchannel3685 Thanks for the reply! I'm looking for a very specific look for a more factory american truck look and these fit very closely to what I had in mind. I agree, the price is a bit high, but I'm sure that a full metal version would be even worse.

@@SteFFy7469 yes if Pro-Line started to make a set of full metal BeadLock wheels they almost definitely would be more expensive. However I don’t think that is the only reason proline went composite, I think it is also to cater for the people who do Comps with their rigs. Most of the rock crawlers I have seen these wheels being used on are competition rigs where every micron of a gram matters and makes a difference in the overall performance of their rigs. I on the other hand was disappointed when I received them in the mail and upon opening the package found them to be half plastic “especially after paying so much for them. As the saying goes though “Don’t criticise the cuisine before it’s served” because when I was mounting my PiTBull Braven Berserker Tires on therm and also the The Proline BF Goodrich Km3 1.9”x4.75” tires I was amazed at how easily they were to fit. It took literally 2-3 mins max per wheel and tire whereas my other set of wheels take absolutely ages upon ages to put tires on them so it deters me from changing tires but on the proline’s it’s a breeze and I don’t mind changing the tires around every so often

Hello thanks for watching. No control throws are fine the way they are for me. I use just a little expo and also set up 2 stage dual rates. But for most of the flight these throws are what I fly on. They are actually the exact throws that are in the instruction manual. Including the throws on the dual rates and also the expo. She flies absolutely wonderfull. Very scale and for a cub “Very Fast” it is because of the landing gear and cowl design. She is now my one and only plane.

Thanks my friend.

Cheers, if you watch my later videos of this rig you’d see I painted the roof and hood black. As you see in this video it was still pretty much only a couple of days old. I owned this body for about 3 months but I sold it on and installed a Killer Body LC70 LandCruiser hard body and till today I am running that. I also have 2 RC4WD gelande 2’s now both pretty much as upgraded and blinged up as one can do. I have an FJ40 Cruiser, D90 Defender, and also a hard Body Team raffy D110 Defender to replace the lexan body Traxxas one I sold. They’ve all been featured on my channel. I invite you to watch them if you have time. Also pls subscribe if it pleases you. Thanks heaps.

Hey I just watched your other video.. thank you it looks awesome.. it gave a vision what to do to mine.. it actually looks great.. I like your rims.. where did you purchase then from?? And I'm looking for fzj80 body for my trx but not too many available.

@@triscuitkracker no not many 80’s at all. The best one is the RCrun80 chassis and the Team raffee body with interior and full metal bar work. All from Asiatees.com

Just search for “Pro-Line Shooter Composite” 1.9” beadLock wheels. I bought them 1 year ago now and I forgot where I actually purchased them from. FYI I also ran 4.75” outer diameter 1.9” inner diameter Pro-Line BF Goodrich KM3 to match the wheels. They fit perfectly without any difficulty whatsoever. Just a word of warming you’ll be up for about $300 Aud or $240ish USD. They’re not cheap.

@@mikesrcreviewchannel3685 awesome. Thank you.. I see people having them but never knew where they got them from. Just ordered.. all in USD.. 200 for wheels 40 for the dual stage foam and 60 for the hyrax 1.9 predator... I can't wait to get them in. 😍

@@triscuitkracker awesome to hear. Hope you enjoy them.👍

Thank you kindly Mike. Hope all is well in your world bud. Till the next time all the best..

Hello my friend. Thank you for your support and watching my video. Yes I love my D90 defender. My one is Rc4wd which is very similar to the team raffy version. Yes i know team raffy is very high. My choice of shocks is the boom racing “scale rear shock” from asiatees.com it cost $40usd approx and separates the shock and the spring so it looks scale. I use 70mm shocks which is perfect for the d90. It gives awesome articulation and a scale look when it is not moving.

Yes my Bro. Things have not changed. Absolute highway robbery. Hope you are well my bro. All the best and thanks for your support. 👍✌️👍✌️

On this video I am using PitBull Braven Berserker 4.35”x1.45”x1.9” in between class 1 and class 2 size. On my latest video if you look for it on my channel I am using wider 4.45”outer x1.70” wider x 1.9” inner. PitBull Rock Beast. I prefer the wider Rock Beast tires ok my latest video. They are offer more grip and also have the look I am going for.

I also changed my shock dampers from 90mm Old man Emu Rc4wd to 80mm super lift rc4wd. She now sits ever so slightly lower and suites the tire size more. Almost all FJ40’s in reality sit fairly low which is hard to replicate in 1/10 scale especially if you have leaf springs like i do. Even going shorter dampers like I have done does not lower the body much. So this is the best I can possibly get it to sit without going back to a coil spring setup. “Which I am dead set against” I like to keep it scale. Thanks for watching. Hope you watch my new FJ vid. It goes over a few big rocks so you can see how nicely the Leafs work