Hey I know this is an old post but this guy Zeek the antique freak just doesn’t show how he did this job start to finish which we all need and he darn right misses mentioning the removing the back two bolts also holding that solenoid onto the starter and near impossible to get at as well
I have john deere x350, i cant find anywhere in manual how much clearance is needed for those v valve. Could not get any help from local john deere too. Anyone knows about it, please let me know.? Thankyou
I was able to repair the existing starter with reasonably priced Delco jobber parts. Not sure the cost of the parts at that time. It needed a drive, a set of brushes and of course the bushings.
Hey there i would love to know the measurements for your adapters if we coule get in contact. Thanks. Have a 300 utility and 3 pt hitch would be a great improvement
I’m struggling on the 60 I just got. When you snap it in and take off or in Netural. When you pull back on the lever. The pulley doesn’t stop turning and the tractor keeps driving. It’s been sitting outside in weather with pulley cover off for the last 20 years lol. Ran 3 years ago tho. I’m hoping I’ll adjust a tad and will fix it. When I pull back on the clutch lever further. The pulley engages again lol
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 for sure they are rusty. I’m gonna clean best I can Adjust right and try again. It doesn’t actually snap in like my B does. And doesn’t disengage snap until all the way back
Shame on FORD for being such d. heads when it comes to accessibility with this engine. Years of engineering and design and this POS is what they produce? Touted high on Wards best engine list but thats until you have to do work on it.
Seems like more and more tech/complexity to guarantee your back yard mechanic types won't be able to fix it. For instance, our Dodge dealer in Manitoba shop rate is CAD$145.00. More than a days work per hour after taxes. Unsustainable.
Hey Zeke... Im working on my older 540 bobcat trying to change out a few hydro hoses.. i need access to remove the steel lines under the lift arms.. I removed both lift cylinders on the boom arm.. trying to raise the boom with an overhead winch but the front wheels just come off the ground.. i have locked down both safetys with a strap.. do i need to work the petal to unlock the boom arms? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks
Yes, be careful! I do believe you have to depress the pedals to let the static oil move. I remember using a rod or a stick to perform that feat. Let me know if I am 'full of it'.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 What is actually locking down the boom arms since the boom arm cylinders are removed? One would think that it would just pivot now on the rear two pins.. Is there a lock mechanism in the bucket dump cylinder or something? Thank you very much for any info.. Its greatly appreciated..👍👍
@@feelingold2995 Yes, sorry, it didn't sink in that the cylinders were removed... Glad to here you have it under control. As an aside you might want to check the condition of the raise cylinder hoses. Mine were rubbed through with use and had to be replaced. Perhaps a length of hose protector material would prevent my problem of a hose leak.
If you like, check the right-hand loader arm steel line that ends up toward the tilt-cylinder. Mine had dirt packed in behind that flat shield thing which over time rotted out the side of the steel hydraulic line. The unit is running well now and 'almost' makes snow-clearing fun.
In this case, I would think there is a short in the plugin? Be careful. The current drawn will vary due to soil type, probe distance and moisture content. If the probes are safely separated/isolated and the breaker blows, then the problem is in the plug in or cord. Thank you for the comment.
On second thought, if you have 'GFCI' (Ground fault circuit interrupters) plugs or breakers, they would sense the leakage to ground and shut off the circuit. Could this be what is happening?
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 Yes that is what happened. I didn't know my outside plugs were like that. Switch to a plugin from the inside and it worked like a charm
Will this current kill underground beetles and bugs eating my underground veges? If not what strength current do I need? I don’t like chemicals and poisons
@@adamhaz If the brake mechanism is working properly, the attachment will come to a sudden halt when the lever is disengaged. It is best to disengage when the engine is at an idle, less wear and tear on the brake mechanism parts. Thank you for the comment.
I am the proud owner of an LX279 as well as the slightly newer LX289 lawn mowers... both purchased second hand from local JD dealership.I like the fact they have liquid cooling system. Bofht as is where is. Learned a valuable lesson , bought on a saturday , took it to the farm , , first round cutting grass , would not climb slight incline , side of the driveway.... low oil level in transmission... No . Loaded her up , back to the dealership... ended up buying a new transaxle , dealership swallowed the labour cost for installation. Note to self , if ever buying a second hand lown mower , test drive needs to include climbing a grade to make sure no issues present !
Thank you for the information... Mine had a fierce amount of well maintained hours on it and as far as I know it is running well for the new owner. I do think that speed wise, the transaxle was a bit slower than new.
I have gas getting into the crankcase. Would the fuel shutoff prevent this from happening? If using everyday bobcat starts good but if it sits awhile its hard starting.
I wandered around in that place thirty or forty years ago when I drove trucks from the potash mines back here to the states. I don't remember that many artifacts on the walls back then.
Im rebuilding one of these right now, and the power enrichment valve spring was missing, rendering the power enrichment circuit usesless. I wanted to verify this application requires one. I see one sticking out of yours, I cannibalized a holley power valve for a spring.
Bobcat 642B 1986 Gas Mitsubishi 4G32 engine it´s leaking oil in the oil seal and the back case do I need to remove the motor or can Ibe able to installed with out the motor on and if you can guide me where tobuy the seal or gasket for that thank you and parts.
Yes, if the rear crankshaft seal is leaking, the engine will have to be removed then the flywheel and oil pan etc. to gain access to the rear bearing. While the flywheel is off, inspect it closely and see if the tooth ring should be flipped and new bevels ground. As for new engine parts, I have had some success (3.5 years ago) with Autoparts AAA out of Erlanger KY. (Make sure the leak isn't running down from up top, maybe the back of the valve cover or something. Hard to see. Also check the crankcase vent/PCV system that this is not blocked or malfunctioning, this can pressurize the crankcase and force oil out.)
This is from a long time ago and memory is poor. If there was a flow adjustment screw, I think that it would be recessed into the housing where the oil feeds to the bar. Sorry I can't be of more help.
There is a black lever between the clutch cover and top handle piece that adjust the amount of oil. Also, the stihl 075s and some 051s had an additional manual oil plunger.
I’ve watched this video several times and it is informative, however!!!!!!! Why can’t you move the camera your using to make the video further away from the parts you’re filming so you can see what the hell you’re doing. All I see is your fingers and the camera moving to quickly to see what you’re doing!!!!!
Yea, I disassembled mine and everything was fine. The low-idle is set at the carb. I am not sure what the high-idle is set at, I just run it where it sounds good to my ear. There is no tachometer to tell what high-idle is adjusted at and I haven't taken the time to hook up test equipment for that. Service manual calls for 700-750 Rpm. low-idle and 2,900-2,975 Rpm. high-idle. I didn't like that the governor was a 'sealed unit', with no vent at the top, so I installed one.
You have the same mower as mine, but my pto clutch stopped working and trying to undo the bolt it snapped inside and I tried drilling and using an easy out and then heating the outside of the shaft and then spraying that cold air on the stud to shrink it, but I could never get it to move. Had to but a used crankshaft from amazon and another pto clutch from amazon for less than half the price you paid. They stuck it to you. I checked their price too. Outrageous. I Got all of the torque settings for the piston bearing cap bolts and pto bolt and never put lock tight on it over 2 years ago. Still not problem. I get torque specs when doing those things. thanks. 🙂
You didn't mention that it takes about 5 times to get it to stay where you put it. My x320 has the same engine and same stew pid tappet adjustment. That is the worst I have ever seen in over 50 years. I'm spoiled by adjusting mostly honda motorcycle tappets. Was looking around to see what you had. I was shocked. 🙂
I wish you would have showed the bottom to see where to drill the holes from underneath without having to remove the bottom cover on the k58. I'll have to go back and guess where you drilled the holes. I was going to drop my pan too but not now. Just want to drill and drain and tap it from the bottom side. thanks.
Yes, I split the case to thoroughly clean clean the case and the filter. The places to drill and tap were were obvious from the inside... Is there any information on the manufacturers website?
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 Nope. But by looking at the inside, to me, it doesn't look like drilling anywhere outside where the filter sits would be ok. Nothing to cause structural integrity in the case. But the one for the big gear would be hard to run a tape in that to put threads in. I was looking at bung cap plugs. Silicone. but not sure of the thickness of that bottom case cover to get the correct size. Just drill and push in one of the plugs. No threading needed I've seen different versions of the K58 from the inside on videos and some look different than others. Can I unbolt the case enough to make a 1/8 between the case and the cover to drain the oil that way without anything dropping out of it's position like the disc brake pads? The big gear should slide up into position as everything else. Thanks for getting back to me.
Oops, it looks like I missed your message. What would happen if one were to drill the case to, say, 3/16" and put in a pop rivet with a touch of sealer? That would save trying to tap the hole and doing internal damage. The deep cleaning couldn't be done but the oil could be changed. Thank you for the comment. @@JohnSmith-uy7sv
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 I found slight markings under the tranny bottom and did a slight drill in so I would not have to guess again when I'm ready. thanks so much. 😉😉
Check the wreckers for circa 1990 Mitsubishi cars (Plymouth Arrow, Dodge Colt) with the 4g32 engine. Older Clark forklifts and some other applications had this engine also. Hitachi distributor. Borg Warner C563 cap. Rotor C577.
