For anybody making a case for a 30-06, I went through 3 cases with a 9/32” bit before I decided to try a 19/64” bit with some oil and on my first try I had good threads. Also if you are drilling holes in a board like this video 29/64” bit worked for me to hold the case.
Is holding down the trigger until the slide is back on the frame necessary? Or can I hold it down until the slide is removed and then depress it once again when I put the slide back on? If that makes sense lol
Not good to ram a steel rod from the muzzle end, will ruin accuracy, this does not need to be so complicated. and don't need to buy them slugs for ridiculous price, when you already have lead, watch fortunecookie45lc, thanks for the effort tho.
You didn't discuss how to open the case mouth after resizing the brass. I have found that using brass that is not resized is sometimes hard to push into the chamber
Here's a "set" I just found on Amazon: www.amazon.com/16-Right-Thread-7-3mm-Drill/dp/B0195UFBUY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MWB54HZZ3Z5Y&dchild=1&keywords=l+drill+bit&qid=1603652521&sprefix=L+dri%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3
Thanks for the video! I just checked the case length of Lapua full length sized brass and the hornady modified case is .0064" shorter. I know that I could still use it and do math with each use for these cases, but I would rather not. You didn't mention how to relax or size up the neck to allow the bullet to slide concentric and with ease. A friend of mine who is a reloader and who I would consider a genius, mentioned sacrificing one of the heavy bullets (previously weighed and sorted) By clamping small vice grips to a seated bullet on the the ojive and working the brass while in your woodblock or in the drill head, until it alows minimal neck tension and allows an unsacrificed bullet to move freely. Anyone else used this or another method that worked well.
Thanks for the response Elijah. With my mentors help, I have figured out that fireforming is best for getting the neck expanded and keeps all dimensions perfectly concentric to the specific chamber it was formed to. I pretty much threw the first attempted brass away. I didn't bother with making another because the Hornady modified case was (ifI remember correctly) .003" off from full length size. When I have my next batch fire-formed, I will make a modified case and properly develop the load using Dan Newberry's method.
@@miketipton1456 , you’re welcome. GunBlue490 posts a lot on RU-vid. He is a wealth of knowledge and information. His posts are free. He talks a lot of sense. I’ve been reloading off and on for 20 plus years. This guy on RU-vid is spot on with everything he talks about. Many would pay him for his knowledge. They are quite long. But lots to learn. Check him out. On a side note: I’ve developed a plastic version of the rod. It fits and glued into the primer pocket. You only have to drill out the primer pocket with a 3.5mm drill bit. As the rod holds only one brass case its specific to that gun. But it’s a quarter of the price of anything else currently on the market. I’m selling it in NZ early next year. Cheers
I learned a lot from this video and for that, I thank you Sir! I really appreciate the time you took to make this video and share the knowledge. However, I do have a few comments. If you just don't want the bother, go to Hornady's website and search for modified case. You will find an address to send Hornady two pieces of fired brass to, along with $15 and they will drill and tap it for you and mail it back in around two weeks. Now having said that, if you want to do it yourself and you want to do it for multiple calibers and save a bunch of money in the process, you can order the drill bits you need with these links (I get nothing from Amazon, I am just sharing what I had to buy to do this myself with the instruction I received here). Here are the links for what you will need and what it will cost: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A18HF1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4PSBA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do believe it is much easier to apply a little oil (doesn't have to be cutting oil, just any kind of oil) to the tap before you begin the tapping process. I tapped mine in half the time we see here by hand. Thank you again Mr. George for this video and your instruction!
Fantastic! Thanks so much. I’m tired of not ever being able to get a hold of the modified cases (how can these be so hard to mass produce?!!) and your tips are great Sir. Very informative and descriptive. Thank you!
Great video Mr. George, thank you! I just bought a 6x47 (wildcat of the 6.5x47) and will be doing this at home with the help of your video. I've read where using a once fired case (not resized) will give you a more accurate reading for the jump, plus modified cases are hard to find for this round. Thanks!
A good video, and thanks for sharing. Am i right in thinking you said a "sized case"? If so, then a factory built bullet head will not slide down inside the neck so the gauge won't be able to push the bullet head out so the Ogive touches the rifling.(If the bullet is long enough obviously) Do this 4 or 5 times, measure the average then seat your bullet heads accordingly. With that in mind, I would have thought a "fire formed" case, and the use of a decapping die would be what is needed. If that makes sense?
issue is binding in the chamber on the case body. it needs to be sized an shoulder bumped. then use an expander die for mouth. or spend the $ an get a body die for fire formed case.
In circumstances where I don't want cutting oil getting all over, I wipe automotive grease on the tap. Best to pull it out every revolution to wipe the chips/grease off. Re-apply grease and go back at it. End up with a nice clean tapped hole and clean everything.
wrong George. saw one person use the Hornady bullet puller. puts the bullet into the bullet puller and tightens it down. then brings the case up into the bullets. doing it till the bullet is loose. Trying this this weekend. he had no trouble getting the bullet to move in and out
I wondered why he didn't address that, what I did was neck size it down, then find the correct size bit to ream it out slightly , works perfect , he should have mentioned that
The distance from the bullet (ogive) to the barrel (crown or Lands & Groves) is important. Where is a gap, come call it clutch. There is no resistance to the explosion. When the ogive hits the crown pressure spikes. The gap is measured for an example .054 for a 22-250. 50 BMG .020. You run a test to see what your rifle likes. Shoot groups of 5 or so at different measurements. The tightest group is you number for that bullet. BULLETS have different profiles so you can not measure to the tip of the bullet when changing BULLETS. So you can not buy like a wildcat. So as part of my hobby I make my own. I had to learn. I hope this helps.
He’s making a modified case. He uses brass sized specifically for his gun then he’s able to measure how deep to set the bullet when he loads his ammo. This isn’t how I would do it but it seems to work for him.
@@johnnybwildered505 It's how I have been doing it, and it works fine for me , except he didn't address how he gets the proper neck tension to hold the bullet but not being to tight, i sized it down , then found a proper size bit to slightly ream it out , works perfect
Nice video...thanks for sending me the link on Facebook....very helpful....I have drilled and tapped plenty of aluminum, brass and stainless Doing Custom glass work in So.Cal....your Video gave me the insight and confidence to make my own modified case
Thanks for the great video. I am new to reloading and really thought you put out some great information. If I understood correctly, with each designed bullet, will lend a different overall length to set the bullet to case in right? What you displayed is a very accurate measure, cannot go wrong with this method. Thank you for your time.
Francis Murphy Yes slightly different measurements. We need to be aware of the OAL so the round will feed in the firearm. Some will be to long. The off the shelf ammo is designed to fit all firearms and feed well. Accuracy can be secondary. Working #1. Some rifles like my 30-06 M1 Grande If I get the bullet close the the barrel crown the bullet will be sticking so far away from the brass base it will fall out of the brass. Difference should be slight. Good luck. Keep your powder dry. I always use my Hornady guage for seating the bullet depth. But again make sure it cycles.
Thanks. I understand about precisely measuring the headspace for each given rifle. But how about the C.O.A.L which is in all the reloading manuals? Where do we drawl the line between the two? Seeings how those are SAMI specs also? Like I said, I'm new to reloading and still acquiring my stuff to do so. And from what I can see, this is a very important aspect of precision reloading. Knowing what to do and do it right, Thanks again.
Francis Murphy My understanding the ANSI COAL is a standard.The "Jump", :Clutch" "free bore" is the distance from the bullet to the crown. You need to have some. When the chamber is ignited this "Freebore" allows pressure to be releases easily for a split second, the bullet moves without the resistance of the barrel pussing against the crown. Without this you can start off with unsafe pressure untill the bullet moves which is mechanicial and takes time. If you have a bullet that is long and narrow and measure off the ogive. The tip will be over the COAL. In this case it might not fit in a mag, to long. You need to watch both COAL and OAL. I always is to the ogive not the tip. But make sure it will fit in the mag, feeding route. The difference between 10 thou and 20 thou in accuracy is hard to tell. You need to be a real good shooter and run an experiment with lets say 10 made at .001, 10 at .002 and so on. This is often called a ladder test. I take my 10 and record worst out of 10 and worst out of 8. I do this because of my shooting errors. Often one or two will be way out of the grooup. These are called flyers. Presision shooting is very hard. I have a long wat to go. I have my 5.56 AR group down to less than .60" at 100 yards just by running a ladder test on different powders. I run my ladder with different Ogive measurements and can not see the difference at 100 yards. I need to reach out to 300 yards plus and run test. One of my problems is a small gust of wind at 300 yards will make a flyer. Use on of the ballistic calculators using zero wind then 3 mph wind with 55 grain at 300 yards. It is significiant. Reloading is the ultimate science project. I just moved. I have no reloading shop now. This fall should have my house remodel far enof along so I can build me a new shop. My old 10'X12" was packed to much stuff. My new 12"X 24" with 9' ceiling for attic storage. I am a gun horder. Lots of compoinets, tools. been collecting real serious for 7 years. You are new tools are like music instruments. A good musian can make any piano sound great. A student can keep blaming the piano.
Ron George One more thing Francis. Learn about Squibs. These are very dangerous. A squib is where a round is loaded with no powder. I have made one and fire in my gun on purpose. The gun makes a pooping noise. The bullet goes into the barrel past the crown. if this is not caught the next round will blow up your gun, BANG. When I did this I had to beat the bullet out of the barrel with a rod and hammer. This took an extreme amount of beating and made me realize how much resistance the batter gives to the barrel. A 308 bullet. The barrel measures .300" inside diameter and .308 to the outside of the lands. this makes the .308 bullet squeeze from .308" to .300" leaving the lands full of bullet for a very tight fit. Bullets are to fit very tight. If they "Bullets" are not tight "fit" gasses will escape between the bullet and barrel varorizing some of the outside of the bullet. this vapor is vaporized CU or lead which cools and sticks to the barrel fowling the barrel extreamily fast. This is most common with Lead "PB" bullets. We need some free bore between the ogive and the crown. Once the bullet enters the barrel at the crown there is much resistance. Usualy you want a very small freebore. Like .002". Be careful. Do not put a round in a gun where the bullet rest on the crown. It will not be accurate. I have done this with no explosion. Does not make it safe or right. Hope I have helped. Ron
